Burning major oil warming up / Choke on to stay on / not staying on at stops (1 Viewer)

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ok I've moved on to the next issue :)
So my engine is gulping oil due to me yanking the choke when I fire it up. I assume because I'm "choking" the engine, it is burning more oil as it should and is meant to do. My issue is the friggin car won't stay lit. It wants to rumble out every time I stop without yanking out the choke. I drove it around for about 20m and it finally wanted to stay on without choke but that's pretty drastic in terms of time. I floored it a couple times and spit out all types of black s*** out the back. didn't help. Anyways, curious if I should try to turn up my idle or turn up how much gas is being pulled to the engine. Thoughts? trouble shooting methods?

I just want it to start, warm up, and stay on..Im in the sun too, its not like I'm in cold weather.
 
Choke shouldn't burn oil.


You have other problems.
What engine are you running? How about a compression test? Any history?
 
Is your carb a 76 Aisan? Has anything been done to clean the carb? What distributor do you have and has it been gone through?

...if the idle circuit is NOT working properly. Marv Spector said it best: when it's working properly, it looks like FM (f'ing magic) You shouldn't see any gas.

To perform the above trouble shooting method: pull the air cleaner, shine a light down the carburetor primary side(nearest the valve cover). If you see fuel spray at idle you'll know the idle circuit isn't working as designed. If you don't see fuel spray, the idle circuit has to be delivering fuel.

As Whitey45 mentioned, you may have a vacuum leak. I'd get a vac gauge and see what the numbers are. If you buy some extra tubing, you can run the gauge in the cab. This will allow you to glance at it as you are driving or experiencing issues.
 
I had to keep the choke on when my fuel pump diaphragm was failing. I chased all kinds of carb theories before getting a new fuel pump from City Racer.
 
What year? What carb?

Pictures might help... carb without the air cleaner, intake manifold, Distributor and brake booster.

If it’s dying when you hit the brakes, check the brake booster first, this thread has multiple test methods —>

@handcannon posted a good method for testing the check valve, several years ago... middle paragraph, post #5, in this thread —> Brake Booster Vacuum?

We need to see where vacuum lines are and aren’t.
 
Choke shouldn't burn oil.


You have other problems.
What engine are you running? How about a compression test? Any history?

2F - rebuilt
I need to go through the previous owners paperwork to see about any compression test because I've owned it now for a couple months and I sure haven't taken it in. Im just addressing things myself at the moment. I doubt it would even pass smog
 
Maybe a good mechanic is needed? The black smoke is because it’s running rich, not burning oil. Check the basics, ignition, tune, valves, carb rebuild... my guess is a big vacuum leak from the intake or carb..


I need to check that - because he did "rebuild" the engine (whatever) anyways it does have a bunch of extras like locking diffs, compressed air, headers, so the guy did do stuff and then he had a stroke unfortunately so I took over.
 
Is your carb a 76 Aisan? Has anything been done to clean the carb? What distributor do you have and has it been gone through?

To perform the above trouble shooting method: pull the air cleaner, shine a light down the carburetor primary side(nearest the valve cover). If you see fuel spray at idle you'll know the idle circuit isn't working as designed. If you don't see fuel spray, the idle circuit has to be delivering fuel.

As Whitey45 mentioned, you may have a vacuum leak. I'd get a vac gauge and see what the numbers are. If you buy some extra tubing, you can run the gauge in the cab. This will allow you to glance at it as you are driving or experiencing issues.


Thanks! I need start checking these things and then report back. Everyone has given me some good areas to start checking. I will report back after completing some of these tasks.

I will take some pictures too for everyone because there are definitely some experienced eyes in here.
 
76' 2F original - just rebuilt with some additions .. no idea on what carb (need to check) ; also will check what distributor and report back.

Pictures might help... carb without the air cleaner, intake manifold, Distributor and brake booster. - Will take pics
 
Apologies for major delay in my follow up. Need to spend some time with the wifey and son instead of in the garage ;) - plus it wasn’t raining and that outs a half in all work...
Stayntuned fornthenpics and mhm thoughts after digfingnhiuhhnthenoreviosunowners documents ofnservice records
 
Qing pictures and videos of engines comprtment - fin you need me to close up on something or Sid something is shadowy I can add more - just an overview ....
 
1984175
1984176
1984177
1984178
1984180
 
pics - sort for delay family life got crazy but im back a it...stay tuned for a couple videos I made that will give you best idea and angles etc...
will post youtube urls asap
 

What year? What carb?

Pictures might help... carb without the air cleaner, intake manifold, Distributor and brake booster.

If it’s dying when you hit the brakes, check the brake booster first, this thread has multiple test methods —>

@handcannon posted a good method for testing the check valve, several years ago... middle paragraph, post #5, in this thread —> Brake Booster Vacuum?

We need to see where vacuum lines are and aren’t.


aint the brake booster
 

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