Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[twoturtlesracing]

Gusb,


From my reading on 'Mud, the plus stands for a slightly higher spring rate.... Again, that is just what I've read, but if it's true, I would put them on the drivers side since the powertrain is shifted slightly to the drivers side, and the suspension often sags on that side over the years, resulting in "cruiser lean". Just FWIW.

And yes, longer end of spring on the shackle for standard wheelbase.

 

[thecrazygreek]

U should do the solid end first, then the shackle end. Its just easier that way. Looking good...

 

[kiwidog]

spings

Hi Gus,

Like greek said put the fixed end on first.
Then put the U-bolts on semi tight. Do both sides and leave the shackles till last. Then take the jack stands out and let the front end spring hanger sit on the spring eyes without the shackles on. (The whole weight of the front end is sitting on the wheels with no shackles) Then take jack and lift at each frame rail at the bumper attachment, jack it up enough to get the spacing between the front spring eye and the front spring mount eye the same as the centre to centre distance of your shackle.Then you can insert the front pins.
The back install is the same, fixed end first.
Like your shackles compared to the triangle ones, looks more like stock. If I was in HMB I would be coming over to help you.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

Hi Gus,

Like greek said . . .

Hey JB,

Boy I wish you were here too - banging my head against the wall on this one. What happened to your May trip - did you guys not make it down? My problems start at your step #2 "put the U-bolts on semi tight . . " the pin is way off the perch hole.

At this point I have the 2 front springs hanging, shackles and fixed pins installed, but for the life of me can't get the center-pins to line up on the spring perches - they're about an 1"-1.5" off to the back. If I could move the whole front axel an inch toward the rear everything would line up.

On the 1st spring I tried any number of assembly variations - even had the front shackle and center pin installed with U-bolts and still couldn't get the right distance (fixed mount to center pin). Funny thing is, it all looks right - if the spring was compressed and the pin in the hole I think the shackle would have the proper angle, etc. And don't lifts often change the wheel/axel location in the wheel well a bit. How much can the front axel/dive shaft/diff move?

Thanks for the help!

 

[TCSTARK]

GusB, when I was going through this install I used my jack to compress the leaf springs and a breaker bar to 'gently' guide the center pin into position. Once I figured out the technique on the front the rears were much easier. I hope this helps.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[kiwidog]

Gus

Did you take the front drive shaft off?
Sometimes there is enough grease in the slip spline to not let the driveshaft collapse easily so it forces the whole axle forward. This may be your lost inch.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

I greased up everything when I first got the truck and as you know it hasn't been driven much at all so that slip is probably full of grease. It sure sounds like that may be it. Is that a common problem? Anything I could screw up pulling the drive shaft - doesn't it need to be marked and reattached in the position, etc. And I guess the shackle would move to the proper angle when the springs are compressed with weight?

I'll get some detailed pictures up tomorrow of what I've got angle-wise now.

Thanks!

Did you take the front drive shaft off?
Sometimes there is enough grease in the slip spline to not let the driveshaft collapse easily so it forces the whole axle forward. This may be your lost inch.

Thanks jb

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Yes, marking it is a great idea. Permanent marks are what I like to do with mine to make sure the joints stay in phase.

Your shackle angles will be better with full weight on the truck- and will get better still as the springs break in.

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app

 

[kiwidog]

DS

Not real important it goes on exactly as it came off. Needs to be in phase with the two eyes of the joints on each end lined up 0-----0.
If the slip joint has never been a part it is correct from the factory.
I usually mark them with a center pop on the DS flange and the TC flange. On the 1/4" wide lip around the outside of the flange.
Two pops for the TC and one pop for the pinion flange end.
If they where ever removed and installed incorrectly, the slip joint goes to the TC flange ends on the front and back DS's

Call me if you want some moral support.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

@kiwidog - jb, I think you saved me lots of heartache!

Dropped the drive shaft and everything lined up just fine.

Got everything snugged up tight and put the full weight of truck down and to my untrained eye it all looks good. Still need to torque everything later. Front shackles moved forward a bit and look like they will settle. I'll get some pictures up - I've been too busy and covered in grease all day.

Removed the grease nipple in the slide and pushed a lot of grease out to get the drive shaft down to get it reconnected.

Moved to the back and pulled all the old stuff. Spent some time cleaning/treating the axel mount areas and related hardware. Gave the spring plates a coat of POR 15, etc. before they go back on.

Hope to get some time tomorrow to more or less finish up. I'll go back through, add lock washers to shackles, and torque everything, etc. And then finally do the shocks.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

Gus, glad you got it together

You mentioned you were tracking the height changes, I'd be real interested in the actual numbers when you get them.

 

[Gusb]

Gus, glad you got it together

You mentioned you were tracking the height changes, I'd be real interested in the actual numbers when you get them.

I'll let you know what I find out. My sense right now is that it's going lower - I had those big, bent shackles on the rear.

Two end-of-day quick photos, the second one kind of shows the current shackle angle in the front.

 

[Gusb]

Got all the springs on, weight down and everything with the exception of fixed shackle location bolts (see below) torqued. Torqued the main spring perches to 95 ft-lbs at this point - check them again later.

Truck seems to be at about the same height as before in the rear, with the front being a little higher. Note in the before photo (old springs) there are jack stands at the front frame. So I think as soon as everything settles it should be a bit lower than the old setup. Interesting that the "plus" spring shackle has not moved as much as the minus. Not much weight on the rear at this point - not even shocks.

What's with those "location" bolts on the fixed shackle (see photo #3)? Weird kind of self-tapping bolt that seems to hit the spring. I stripped one already and wondering if I should just replace them with a shorter bolt of some kind? I'll try to Heli-coil the stripped thread.

 

[miker]

What's with those "location" bolts on the fixed shackle (see photo #3)? Weird kind of self-tapping bolt that seems to hit the spring. I stripped one already and wondering if I should just replace them with a shorter bolt of some kind? I'll try to Heli-coil the stripped thread.

They are supposed to be short and not hit the spring or bushing. They are easy to overtighten and strip. The purpose is to keep that fixed end spring pin from rotating as the suspension cycles.

 

[Gusb]

So I guess I'm now in official "CrazyGreek heaven" . Decided to stop being so conservative with the tire thing. BFG 33 x 10.5, Mud KM2s - they sure look big to me. Picked up 5 and the guy was really helpful and seemed to be worried about the balancing and getting everything right.

Decided to just clean the wheels, leave the patina and do nothing paint-wise on the rims right now. I think that's some original gray left on that front wheel in the 1st photo.

Now I'm higher - about 2.5 inches. Doesn't this tire still look correctly positioned considering no weight and the new springs not broken in? They almost look like they might hit the outside fender on a hard bounce.

 

[Gusb]

Got the bib back from blasting.

Tall tire height view.

 

[kling-on]

Looking good I want to swap mine to stock steelies too

Sent from outer space via my mind

 

[twoturtlesracing]

So I guess I'm now in official "CrazyGreek heaven" . Decided to stop being so conservative with the tire thing. BFG 33 x 10.5, Mud KM2s - they sure look big to me. Picked up 5 and the guy was really helpful.

Now I'm higher - about 2.5 inches. Doesn't this tire still look correctly positioned considering no weight and the new springs not broken in? They almost look like they might hit the outside fender on a hard bounce.

Looks good man! I think you'll be very happy with those tires. I really liked mine!

As far as them hitting on a hard bounce- I doubt it. Especially considering that the tires will move rearward as the spring compresses and shackles lay back. If you wanted to see just how much compression you have, you could wrap a heavy duty ratchet strap around the axle and frame cross piece and pull it down- using something to increase the leverage of the ratchet on your strap ( I used a hammer handle). I have done this in the past when figuring out shock mounts.

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app

 

[sggoat]

I agree- it's rust bulging. Same thing on my '77. Had to grind out all the panel section and reweld in new metal on the psgr side. Driver side is showing the same symptoms- will have to do the same here in the future.l

 

[thecrazygreek]

Good choice!

Looks real nice. Welcome to heaven.