Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[Gusb]

Going to try and make this thing a "rolling restoration" - sooner than later.

Welding up the bib.

 

[TCSTARK]

Solid work! Keep up the momentum.

Sent from my iPhone using IH8MUD

 

[Gusb]

Gas tank in and hooked up. Front seats back in along with tail lights, heat shields and muffler. Things seem to be going together, cleaning up a few threads here and there.

New OEM front bumper from Toyota looks really good.

Bib welded up and will just get hit with some EP before it goes back on with fenders.

 

[thecrazygreek]

So tell me again why you arent painting before re-assembly?

 

[Gusb]

So tell me again why you arent painting before re-assembly?

Let me see if I can try to make sense of it. Number one is I'm really wanting to drive the 40! Not so bad when I had the old springs and tires but the minute I decided on replacements for those it really sparked getting back on the road so I could begin to fine tune other things, steering, carb, etc. etc. And to me it seems like kind of a regroup - getting parts back on, checking fit and seeing that things work before final paint. It will be more work pulling things back off for final paint, but I think I'm getting better at that.

Everything I do is painfully slow and the body work is still ongoing. I thought about doing final color on the interior but I'm not sure I'm done grinding on it, etc. The work I've done in general is not (of course) perfect and I'd like to get outside opinions going forward but that's hard to do when the truck is not moving. And I've hit a bit of a final paint snag locally trying to get someone to mix/match. Now my local paint guy (PPG) is telling me they can't mix an accurate match and I need to go "out of town" to get proper PPG color. And there seems to even be confusion about the PPG Olive (653).

The last issue is I'm not sure how "good" I want the final paint to be. Never really planned on doing it myself (home garage, etc.) so that's still up in the air. Met a guy at a party who owns a shop that does really "high-end" paint and (not that I could afford it) would at least like to get an evaluation of what I've done (and maybe an estimate).

Meanwhile - it may not be pretty but I'll be driving - if I can get through CA smog.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Now my local paint guy (PPG) is telling me they can't mix an accurate match and I need to go "out of town" to get proper PPG color. And there seems to even be confusion about the PPG Olive (653).

I had that problem too. I went to the place on Steven's Creek and they mixed up their formula. I brought a kick vent with original paint that had rarely seen the light of day on the inside. It wasn't even close. The owner took it back inside and re-colored by eye (!) and got it very close.

Since you have a good powder coater, as mentioned in the sand blasting thread, you could get some pounds of this:

RAL® 8008 Olive Brown | Polychem

I'm dying to compare some metal coated with this to the original, even though they call it olive brown. You can buy a piece of metal, coated in this color, from them for $13ish shipped.

it may not be pretty but I'll be driving - if I can get through CA smog

I've got a guy in San Jose that will pre-test it for free if he's not busy and let you know where you stand.

If you let it go all the way to an official fail, you can pay an extra $50 to the DMV for a red-sticker registration that will last a couple months while you're working on it.

 

[ElHefe]

Gas tank in and hooked up. Front seats back in along with tail lights, heat shields and muffler. Things seem to be going together, cleaning up a few threads here and there.

New OEM front bumper from Toyota looks really good.

Bib welded up and will just get hit with some EP before it goes back on with fenders.

The last picture looks computer generated. Great work.

 

[Gusb]

I had that problem too. I went to the place on Steven's Creek and they mixed up their formula. I brought a kick vent with original paint that had rarely seen the light of day on the inside. It wasn't even close. The owner took it back inside and re-colored by eye (!) and got it very close.

I've got a guy in San Jose that will pre-test it for free if he's not busy and let you know where you stand...

Have you noticed - in bright sunlight, the original paint kind of goes in a "yellow" direction - where all these others (including my PO touchup) go to the "green" side. I don't really see any "green" in my original paint. And PPG calls it Olive Green. Are you thinking of using PC on some body parts?

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Much appreciated on the smog - i had planned to try and pick your brain through the process anyway

Got a few things to sort out when it's running, choke cable, maybe a carb rebuild, etc. if I remember correctly there was a slight "stumble" on acceleration when it was last driven. I've got the 1978 Emission Manual from when I did all the stuff before. The local guy who always did smog on my old 80 pickup has always been helpful too.

 

[Fast Eddy]

Have you noticed - in bright sunlight, the original paint kind of goes in a "yellow" direction - where all these others (including my PO touchup) go to the "green" side. I don't really see any "green" in my original paint. And PPG calls it Olive Green. Are you thinking of using PC on some body parts?

All the green codes are 6xx and so 653 is olive green. I guess I see what you're saying about yellow. All my exteriors are faded dirt color since I haven't waxed them in forever.

I'm about to put a roll bar in my '76, and I have a set of OEM soft top bows. If it's a close match, I'd like to have them all done in that olive powder coat. From there, we'll see. I can imagine doing a whole resto that way. It's good enough for a TLC Icon.

Much appreciated on the smog - i had planned to try and pick your brain through the process anyway

Got a few things to sort out when it's running, choke cable, maybe a carb rebuild, etc. if I remember correctly there was a slight "stumble" on acceleration when it was last driven. I've got the 1978 Emission Manual from when I did all the stuff before. The local guy who always did smog on my old 80 pickup has always been helpful too.

If you decide to rebuild your carb, let's get together and do two of them at once. I already bought the carb dip and I have a spare I want to rebuild. If it comes out well, I'll do the one on my '76 too.

 

[Gusb]

If you decide to rebuild your carb, let's get together and do two of them at once. I already bought the carb dip and I have a spare I want to rebuild. If it comes out well, I'll do the one on my '76 too.

I'm not sure that I can drink Sierra Nevada and rebuild a carb at the same time, but I 'm willing to give it a shot

 

[Gusb]

Fitting things together a few days back.

 

[Gusb]

One-of-a-kind, strong (14 GA) license plate assy mount adapter bracket. For when the ambulance doors are off - uses the existing hinge mount. I'll hit it with some EP when the gun is up again.

 

[kiwidog]

multi color

Hi Gus,
You sure have been busy. Looking good.
You know you will have to sand all that primer and maybe even shot another coat before you top coat.
Tell me something. Did you springs have different eye size compared to the chassis spring bushing? The pin size looks to be both the same diameter. Just wondering if OME make one spring set for 7/80 down and the 8/80 up and use a different size spring bushing to fit the different years FJ40's.

Keep up the good work.. I'll want a ride next time we are in HMB.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

Tell me something. Did you springs have different eye size compared to the chassis spring bushing? The pin size looks to be both the same diameter. Just wondering if OME make one spring set for 7/80 down and the 8/80 up and use a different size spring bushing to fit the different years FJ40's.

Hey jb,

Oh yeah - I know the EP will need to be sanded and sprayed again. That stuff on the rear has cured a lot longer than a week You can't really tell in the photos but I messed up on the fenders - compared to the back, so they need some additional effort anyway.

Please excuse my ignorance on the suspension but I'll try to answer your question (and thanks again for saving me with the drop the driveshaft thing). The OME bushings were all the same 2 sizes I think - with the exception of the rear shocks, which needed the "shock-supplied" bushing replaced with a different size (id) that Kurt sent with kit. In other words a smaller for the frame side and a larger for the spring eye - front/rear. The pins I think were all the same diameter. Fit/finish BTY was quite good - I was really surprised in general with the nice slip-fit on bushings, etc. Maybe not by fine "machining" standards but the quality seemed good overall. Hope that helps - I'm sure Kurt can give you detailed info on the different years. Seems like a nice guy and good on follow-ups.

Next time in HMB - you can not only ride you can drive - need all the experienced feedback I can get.

Gus

 

[twoturtlesracing]

Hi Gus,
You sure have been busy. Looking good.
You know you will have to sand all that primer and maybe even shot another coat before you top coat.
Tell me something. Did you springs have different eye size compared to the chassis spring bushing? The pin size looks to be both the same diameter. Just wondering if OME make one spring set for 7/80 down and the 8/80 up and use a different size spring bushing to fit the different years FJ40's.

Keep up the good work.. I'll want a ride next time we are in HMB.

Thanks jb

That's exactly what they did!

……..........……………………………..........


Looks great GusB!

So I haven't gone back to look and see what EP you used, but i do seem to remember it wasn't POR-15 or RustBullet. I have read so much on here about guys using those two, specifically POR-15, that being new to body work, I thought they were the only two products out there.

My questions are:

-Am I correct in thinking that POR-15 is a similar product to other Epoxy Primers?
-If so, do they require the same kind of prep and cleaning?
-if not, what are the advantages/disadvantages?

On a different note, I have wondered if when I put my rear sill in, and it has all been sealed with POR or a similar product, if it would be prudent to use some kind of body sealer along the seams where say the rear sill meets the body panels- both top and bottom? Or the seams around the fenders- at least on the bottom side, -just as extra security from moisture getting between the different parts.

It seems like a good idea to me, except for possibly because it might actually trap moisture buildup from condensation due to temperature changes?

I'd be interested in yours, and others, input on it!

Sent from my iPhone/ IH8MUD app

 

[Gusb]

... Am I correct in thinking that POR-15 is a similar product to other Epoxy Primers...

Many threads on Mud about POR15, etc. Here's my .02 based only on what I've experienced:
1) POR15 is not like 2-part EP. POR15 is for rust, EP is always better on good steel.
2) You can mix and brush EP in a pinch but usually only in small hidden areas, it needs to be sprayed for the most part.
3) Prep is really important - for both EP and POR15 (and everything else).
4) Some people will use EP as a kind of "weld primer" - paint 2 parts that mate/sandwich/lapp joint, let it cure and then clean/weld the join spots. The EP seems to burn less when it's had a full 7+ days of cure. But I usually use weld primer and work some EP into the lapps after the fact if possible.

My general process (like on the bib a few posts back):
Pulled apart and had the rust blasted away. I don't like blasting sheet metal but sometimes it seems the best way to eliminate the rust completely. Spent a good amount of time masking the bib so ONLY the rusted areas got hit in the blasting. Clean steel always rules out POR15 (my opinion), but I still treat the blasted steel with their Metal-Ready stuff. I patch/weld any areas that need it. Then I hit the lap areas with 3M weld primer, weld everything together and in the case of the lower bib came back and worked 2-part EP in the seams and inside lapped areas. I also put a few very small (.060) "air/drain" holes in the hidden bottom of the bib support bracket "sandwich". May shoot some EP into the lapp area through those little access holes.

 

[Gusb]

On the road again - sorta.

I picked up a battery at a Toyota dealership when I first got the truck and had it for just a few miles before it was disconnected and body work began. That was like 3 years ago. I reconnected the battery today and that thing turned the truck over and over, no charging, and I finally put some gas in the carb and got going. Even had a buddy ready to bring over a charger but never needed it.

Did an illegal run to get more gas with the old expired plates, got to get the DMV non-operational stuff together for smog, etc.

Suspension is really nice, even found a little dirt out by the Bay and the rear springs seemed to settle a little. Still something screwy with the steering. Don't have enough 40 driving experience to really evaluate. Now that it's moving I should be able to work through a few mechanical issues.

Also need to set up a driver's side mirror (no doors for a while) somehow.

 

[duffontap]

Must feel like a million bucks.

On the road again - sorta.
Also need to set up a driver's side mirror (no doors for a while) somehow.

In a pinch you can attach the standard door mount mirrors to the windshield hinges with one screw. I've done it lots of times and it works fine just to keep things legal.

 

[kiwidog]

Driving

Hi Gus,

Hot here today.
40 looks real good, stance is perfect.
They never did steer real great with a manual box. The PS seems to make quite a difference.
The most likely thing is when you lift the up slightly the caster is changed so the fix is to add tapered shim between the axle spring pad and the spring. You could try it with piece of 1/4 x3/4 flat about 70mm long. Add it to the front of the spring axle pad. You want the pinion to tip down a little. This will give you more caster and it should track better. You can also check the toe-in with tape measure. It is easy to do when you have crisp new tires.

The picture is of the rear spring on 1980 --40. I wanted to turn the rear pinion down a little to make the drive shaft angles better to make the u-joints run smoother. You can see the shim on the rear of the spring pack. You want to try the same thing on the front spring pack, put he shim in the front. If that works better then you can get some real tapered shims. Kurt of Man a Fre will probably have them.

Headed off tomorrow for a week road trip to Montana. Going to visit the Little Big Horn National Monument. Taking the LX450 so I can sleep in it. AB is headed for HMB with motorhome from Billings MT with a friend from HMB.

Having fun in your 40, it doesn't get much better.

Thanks jb

 

[Gusb]

Yes. Go the "whole hog" and get everything "within spec". If you don't - You'll probably pay the price with "ongoing problems". (In fact, unless the slave is known to be in top condition - I'd have replaced it at the same time as the master ..... And replaced the flexible hose to the slave at the same time too.)
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That's what lostmarbles said to me in a post back in 2008 when I replaced my clutch master (brake master cylinder too). I passed on replacing the clutch slave and today on my 2nd little test run (still not legal) I think the slave blew - called my wife (one more time) and asked her to bring me brake fluid. Even with that almost didn't make it back to the garage - in 2nd gear most of the time. So much for listening to good advice.

But it feels good to be moving and finding some of these things that need fixing now - close to home instead of later.