Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?

[Awl_TEQ]

some useless info for you:

Pretty much all mills that produce colled rolled steel will short you on thickness by at least 0.005". The mills sell to the distributers by the pound so it makes no difference to them. But I buy from the distributers by the sheet which is priced by the pound at a theoretical pound/sheet weight. That weight is based on the nominal thickness - ie - how thick the sheet is supposed to be. So I am paying for full sheet weight and getting 0.005" less. It adds an instant 8% to 12% to their bottom line. The industry specs for sheet material allow for it in the thickness tolerance.

In the end it makes no difference to me with regard to price because we just pass it on the end user. And the material is still within tolerance.

so, bottom line, your new material is normal. Also, I find when reproducing parts that Toyota quite often uses the rare gauges like 13, 15 and 17 so I just go thicker.

 

[Gusb]

some useless info for you:

Thanks Kevin - Rolling Stones quote ("useless information")? I guess I'll just mic everything in future.

 

[Gusb]

In process on a rough support jig out of plywood for use with the Bosch saw that will just clamp to the rockers. This gives the sheet metal support (cuts down the vibration) and gives the blade the right distance so it's not banging into the inside rocker wall, etc.

Making more and more cuts with this saw and a fine tooth blade for steel these days. Anything to get away from the angle grinder/cut-off disc. Cuts are faster, colder and seem more accurate.

 

[Gusb]

Cutting out the bad stuff...

 

[Gusb]

Got some patches made up - now a bit more cleaning up down under/inside and I should be ready to weld the patches. Think the 3 last brackets and inside the welded patches will get a brushed-on coat of EP and time to cure before they get welded back in.

 

[waiting for time]

Now that is some precision work.

 

[Gusb]

Outside patches tacked in ...

 

[Gusb]

A little rant on the never-ending search for OEM/NOS parts...

Took my old 80 pickup in for California smog a few days ago and it passed without a hiccup! Smog’s a big deal in California and I had thought about tuning it up first, giving it it’s yearly bath or at least scraping the cobwebs off but in the end I just took it in and it zipped right through. I can’t even remember the last time the plugs were changed.

The smog guy at one point had looked at my shredded, torn, broken rusty wipers and commented that they could stand some attention. Every Christmas when the kids ride in the truck on a tree run in the rain they always comment “hey, you still haven't changed the wipers and another year has gone by”. I had tried a number of times at Toyota over the last few years to get replacements, complete unit, partial, rubber only, special order or whatever and always got the discontinued, go aftermarket, etc. line. The truck is never driven much and it continues to get the back burner.

This day I was so pleased with the smog pass I decided to swing by Toyota and get some spark plugs and a fuel/oil filter as a little gift for the pickup (the 40 seems to get all the money these days). On a lark, I asked the Toyota parts person where I could find replacement wipers for the 80 truck, and she said “I think I have them in the back” - and out she comes out with the exact, black (replacement screws included), Toyota wipers for the truck! All she said was “next time ask me”.

BTW the truck runs a lot better with the new plugs - maybe it’s a good idea to change them every five years or so.

 

[Gusb]

New Bandfile (Milwaukee 6101) I'm going to try and use for grinding welds and getting into tight places. Thought about something like the Dynabrade 40320 that Awl_TEQ is using but it cost twice as much and I'm not sure my toy compressor can handle it. No variable speed on this guy so time will tell how well it works out. Going to check out what 3M sells for belt replacements.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

New tools are always nice.

Just remember to keep moving. If you stay in one spot it will dig a little trough.

 

[miker]

No tools are always nice.

WHAT? NO TOOLS?

typo, i'm sure, just thought it was funny....

 

[1973barnfind]

Thanks for posting such a thought out thread on body work. I really don't want to do body work on mine, but Rust never sleeps...

all I need now is a welder, and sheetmetal

 

[Awl_TEQ]

WHAT? NO TOOLS?

typo, i'm sure, just thought it was funny....

i uSually prof reed mine posts

 

[Gusb]

"I have no tools..." that's the line my wife hears all the time when I'm buying something - and yes, she thinks "No tools are always nice."

Got a 3M paint mask and picked up some PPG DP50LV epoxy primer and hardener that I'm going to experiment with in some hidden areas where cosmetics are not so important. Thought I would use a brush to begin with, test out some curing/welding issues and work my way toward spraying a little at some point down the road.

This stuff is "2.1" but on the material sheet I noticed they also seem to call out one part reducer (2, 1, 1 D87xx)? The paint guy didn't mention reducer? Does this mean that in all cases a reducer should be used (temperature notwithstanding)? I want to spray from a smaller gun in future so I'm sure the 2.1 would need additional thinning? I also want the brush work to "wick" into some lapped (original factory designed) seams here and there if possible, so I would think thinner would be better for that - even with the brush?

Also looked at one of those plastic tops that seal to the top of the can with a pour spout and mixer built in - will that keep the primer fresh enough over a period of time (instead of just resealing the can)?

Thanks for any feedback!

 

[miker]

I'm not an expert, but I thought the '2.1' was the VOC or Volatile Organic Compound emissions the product produces when it is applied according to the manufacturers guidelines. I "think" the 2.1 represents pounds of VOCs per gallon of material. I.e., no more than 2.1 lbs of VOCs will be emmitted in to the air when applying a gallon of the material.

The 2.1 is not an indication of the mixing ratios.

I would definitely use the reducer when spraying. You might try it without the reducer when brushing but I'm not sure how this might effect workable times and dry times. Without the reducer, the product may be applied too thick which could lead to issues down the road like cure times and top coat adhesion.

Someone who knows more is sure to say I'm wrong...

Be careful with using plastics such as the cap you are referring to with automotive products. Some plastic tools made for laytex and household style paints are not going to stand up to automotive paints and solvents. I've experienced this myself and now only use paint buckets, spouts, etc from an automotive paint supplier that I know will not dissolve over time.

 

[Gusb]

Be careful with using plastics such as the cap you are referring to with automotive products. Some plastic tools made for laytex and household style paints are not going to stand up to automotive paints and solvents. I've experienced this myself and now only use paint buckets, spouts, etc from an automotive paint supplier that I know will not dissolve over time.

Thanks Mike - This thing was from the auto paint supply guy, so I don't think that's an issue. I think it helps one stir the paint and pour randomly without the mess of opening and resealing the main epoxy can every time - less mess, etc. I was just wondering how well they seal between uses.

 

[Gusb]

I'm not an expert, but I thought the '2.1' was the VOC or Volatile Organic Compound emissions the product produces when it is applied according to the manufacturers guidelines. I "think" the 2.1 represents pounds of VOCs per gallon of material. I.e., no more than 2.1 lbs of VOCs will be emmitted in to the air when applying a gallon of the material.

The 2.1 is not an indication of the mixing ratios.

I would definitely use the reducer when spraying. You might try it without the reducer when brushing but I'm not sure how this might effect workable times and dry times. Without the reducer, the product may be applied too thick which could lead to issues down the road like cure times and top coat adhesion.

Someone who knows more is sure to say I'm wrong...

Mike,

You, as usual are spot on. I think my ignorance (relating to paint in this case) is quite impressive

Returned to the paint guy and got some reducer to go with the primer. This primer (DPLV) is apparently the newer politically-correct stuff - the reducer was not like the older stuff on the shelf, which he said would not work with the DPLV. I've heard/read a good number of people knocking these new paints and the protection they offer (compared to the older paint systems) but according to him they've been used in Europe for a good while. Anyway, they still seem pretty nasty as far as safety issues, etc.

 

[miker]

I think my ignorance (relating to paint in this case) is quite impressive

I don't know how anyone can keep up with all the changes and new products in the paint/coatings industry. Many of which are regulatory mandated by our government, both local and state.

Anyway, I seem to recall that the VOC of 2.1 (or less) is some kind of arbitrary 'magic' number that makes the paint environmentally friendly.

 

[Awl_TEQ]

A VOC of 2.1 or less kills you just slowly enough that you can't figure out who to sue

But seriously, I do agree with some sort of regulation on this stuff -- it's nasty.

 

[Gusb]

Floor pieces going in - still need grinding and a bit more weld. Good leather welding jacket with a nice high collar recommended

Next the brackets get welded on top ...