One of the guys that pilots for me when I do Oversize loads has a couple of these. One has like 700k miles and still going.
Builds Broski's Adventure Rig build thread (17 Viewers)
- Thread starter Broski
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- #62
Ya, Joe doing the cutting myself. I well be showing the work in much more detail later in the thread. I'd be happy to help with yours should be easier second time around. I well make patterns of what I do.
Here's our fearless Cruise Moab posse doing our annual Top of the World Tuesday run
- Thread starter
- #64
Thanks for posted these up Corey. I was looking for these pictures and could not find them. looking foreword to wheeling with you and the gang again this year. I should be there buy 4/12/ 2020
4/13 for us early afternoon ETA
Forgot to ask, what is the tread width of those 39s vs. 37s? Did you get a side by side pic. That day went so fast... so many things to do, couldn't get it all done in one day. I need another visit.
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- #67
Gary, The 39" Mud Hogs are slightly narrower at the tread 10 1/8" vs. the 37" Trxus 10 1/4 " at the tread I well get a side by side picture tomorrow
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- #68
Next up on the build was trussing the front axle and adding knuckle braces
I made the truss my self out of a piece of .120 wall 2"x4" tubing. I welded it on very slowly starting by putting small welds no closer then 2" and jumping back and forth and side to side. I borrowed the big I beam the chromoly tube you see sticking each side of the axle and a gutted third from a friend. The hole set up is for welding a truss to a axle, The tube fits the inside axle housing and the gutted third, fits snug but moves freely. The idea is you weld a little rotate the tube and repeat. If the tube starts to bind you know your getting the axle to hot and its starting to warp. The set up seemed to work very well.
I also welded on the modified Mini truck knuckle braces, front ring guard and a piece of 1/4" plate to the bottom of the third housing that I custom cut and bent.
I made the truss my self out of a piece of .120 wall 2"x4" tubing. I welded it on very slowly starting by putting small welds no closer then 2" and jumping back and forth and side to side. I borrowed the big I beam the chromoly tube you see sticking each side of the axle and a gutted third from a friend. The hole set up is for welding a truss to a axle, The tube fits the inside axle housing and the gutted third, fits snug but moves freely. The idea is you weld a little rotate the tube and repeat. If the tube starts to bind you know your getting the axle to hot and its starting to warp. The set up seemed to work very well.
I also welded on the modified Mini truck knuckle braces, front ring guard and a piece of 1/4" plate to the bottom of the third housing that I custom cut and bent.
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- #69
This is what it looks like all put back together.
I used the marlin Crawler 10 MM hex drive flush fill and drain plugs. And for a little added beef I used ARP knuckle bolt and flange hardware
I used the marlin Crawler 10 MM hex drive flush fill and drain plugs. And for a little added beef I used ARP knuckle bolt and flange hardware
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Hey RB can I call Dibs on your old tires? PM me please.
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I need to truss my axle soon. Gotta find a way to secure it so there's no warping. Your's looks great!
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- #72
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- #73
In this picture you can see the 1/4 plate that i welded the the bottom of the axle housing. Here I was also doing short welds 1 to 11/2" at a time again going side
to side front to back and letting it cool in between. I also built up around the drain plug with welds.
to side front to back and letting it cool in between. I also built up around the drain plug with welds.
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- #74
Next up was the Hydro assist. I went with a kit from West Texas off road. In my opinion it more of a generic kit. It's up to you to figure out where to run the hose's.
With the stock steering set up it's not a easy Task. Also the size of the ram is some what of a debate. Some say a 10" ram, some say a 8" ram is the right size. after carefully measuring I came up with 9 5/8" of steering travel lock to lock. So if you run a 10" ram you need to shim to down or you well be putting pressure on you Knuckles at full lock. If you run a 8" ram you need to a just your tuning stops and you lose 11/16" of turning each direction.
The 8" ram is what W.T.O.R. tried to sell me. But I was not willing to give up that much turn radius and I did not want to deal with shimming a 10" ram.
After much persuasion I got them to sell me a 1.5x 9" ram. So I only lost 3/16" of turning each direction.
This does not seem like much, but I could definitely tell the difference in the turn radius.
So after getting all of that work out, doing a lot of research as to what other 80 owners had done I thought I had a handle on things. NOT
After I got things all welded in place it seemed to work well in low speed rock crawling and on the street.
Then I took it to Pismo Beach. And after some high speed dune bashing I put one of the fitting on the Ram through the Oil pan and Ruptured the hydraulic line.
The life blood was running out of my Motor and I was losing steering. Lucky I was with good friends, We were able to slow the oil loss with plastic bottle cap and a big sheet metal screw to get it out of the Dunes. Then a 40 minute ride back to my house to get my Truck and Trailer.
If you are going to run Hydro with the Tie rod in the stock location, Ram behind the axle it's best to remove the springs cycle the axle all the way up and down making sure there is extra room past the bump stops for hard hits at the Dunes, check then Dbl. check then weld
I also learned to carry caps or plugs to cap off the system in case of hose or ram failure.
Once a gain I though I had it all work out, Did Cruise Moab, A trip to the Rubicon. Then I headed up Tillamook Oregon for Cruising the woods. I was doing some Pre Event Wheeling when I pulled a hose off the fitting at the Ram. This time I was more prepared, I had caps to close off the system, some Slee swag from Cruise Moab ( A nice tarp to throw down in the mud ) I removed the ram and hose's and ran the Event with out the Hydro.
With the stock steering set up it's not a easy Task. Also the size of the ram is some what of a debate. Some say a 10" ram, some say a 8" ram is the right size. after carefully measuring I came up with 9 5/8" of steering travel lock to lock. So if you run a 10" ram you need to shim to down or you well be putting pressure on you Knuckles at full lock. If you run a 8" ram you need to a just your tuning stops and you lose 11/16" of turning each direction.
The 8" ram is what W.T.O.R. tried to sell me. But I was not willing to give up that much turn radius and I did not want to deal with shimming a 10" ram.
After much persuasion I got them to sell me a 1.5x 9" ram. So I only lost 3/16" of turning each direction.
This does not seem like much, but I could definitely tell the difference in the turn radius.
So after getting all of that work out, doing a lot of research as to what other 80 owners had done I thought I had a handle on things. NOT
After I got things all welded in place it seemed to work well in low speed rock crawling and on the street.
Then I took it to Pismo Beach. And after some high speed dune bashing I put one of the fitting on the Ram through the Oil pan and Ruptured the hydraulic line.
The life blood was running out of my Motor and I was losing steering. Lucky I was with good friends, We were able to slow the oil loss with plastic bottle cap and a big sheet metal screw to get it out of the Dunes. Then a 40 minute ride back to my house to get my Truck and Trailer.
If you are going to run Hydro with the Tie rod in the stock location, Ram behind the axle it's best to remove the springs cycle the axle all the way up and down making sure there is extra room past the bump stops for hard hits at the Dunes, check then Dbl. check then weld
I also learned to carry caps or plugs to cap off the system in case of hose or ram failure.
Once a gain I though I had it all work out, Did Cruise Moab, A trip to the Rubicon. Then I headed up Tillamook Oregon for Cruising the woods. I was doing some Pre Event Wheeling when I pulled a hose off the fitting at the Ram. This time I was more prepared, I had caps to close off the system, some Slee swag from Cruise Moab ( A nice tarp to throw down in the mud ) I removed the ram and hose's and ran the Event with out the Hydro.
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- #75
When I got home I had some longer hydraulic hose's made up, made a enclosure to keep the hose's in place and a way from the motor.
After much trial and error I believe I finally got it right.
After much trial and error I believe I finally got it right.
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- #76
I really like the Hydro, It's super nice to be able to turn in the big rocks with the lockers on. Here's a few more pictures of the ram and mounts.
Looking forward to a late summers meet.
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- #78
I would also add that IMHO the Hydro takes a lot of pressure off the sector shaft & right side lower knuckle bolts . A nice added benefit if you are running Big tires. You can see how the hose's run over the steering box and down the inside.
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- #79
Some pictures from Cruising the woods. We had a beautiful camp site.
The views from the top of the Ridge were also nice
The views from the top of the Ridge were also nice
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- #80
