Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (1 Viewer)

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Nook above clarified it's the Tacoma adapter. Thank god, not sure I want any part of the FJC on my truck. I wouldn't stop hearing about it from all the guys in my club.

Can anyone confirm the exact outside diameter you need to machine the IFS hubs to? The FROR website says this but I want to confirm before machining:
  • Must use 86-95 IFS wheel hubs, and these must have the OD of the wheel mounting flange turned down for the Tacoma rotor to slip over, to about 6.680 diameter.
 
If this is a permanent issue can the caliper be shifted in or out to adjust? Does the caliper bolt to the inside or outside
of the caliper mount?
I would think you could get a set of stainless 1.5mm thick washers to put between the calipers and mounts to space the caliper out and better center it over the rotor. Maybe from Fastenal or McMaster-Carr.

Edit, nevermind. Just saw this explained in a previous post.
 
I did talk to Redline Cruisers. Their kit uses the 13.3 rotor from 2012 and later 4runners.
They only sell complete kits down to pre-greased wheel bearings, pre machined hubs, etc. The large brakes require 17" rims to clear.
Looking at the Front Range site they source the rotors from 96-04 Tacoma. These are the same size as FJ60 rotors.
How the Tacoma rotor is an upgrade , I don't know. Perhaps the caliper carrier bigger pads. I guess the benefit would be
using your stock 15" rim.
 
Cleaning hubs is part of saving money. Junkyard parts ready for the lathe to turn the od down to fit tundra rotors. Thankfully my work has a parts washer to clean these suckers.

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Getting closer. Hubs machined to allow tundra rotors to fit over it.

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There’s no money in the piece parts. The profit margin would be selling an entire kit as FROR has done. Their kit allows the average joe/jane in the middle of nowhere to order the entire kit to their door to install.

The main killer for junk yard piece parts is shipping. The hubs are really heavy and large enough to not fit in a flat rate box. That being said I spoke to the machinist. He has his own shop at home so those who need their work turned down in the L.A. area or those who want to ship can get it done rather cheaply (~$20-40 for the pair).
 
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Naval jelly didn’t work as well as I wanted to remove the rust. They will be headed to the blast cabinet.

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Naval jelly didn’t work as well as I wanted to remove the rust. They will be headed to the blast cabinet.

I’m mildly obsessed with rust removal products. EvapoRust is my current favorite. The item to de-rust must be completely submerged for several hours, usually over night. The stuff is sold in a 3 gallon pail, which is the perfect size for a hub. Item needs to be cleaned before treatment.
 
If I am leaving it overnight then I would rig up an electrolytic rust removal tank. Since I have access to a blast cabinet at work I will be cheating and going that route.
 
@60Works
Can you share the sizing of the hardware you used? I too want to grab the correct JIS bolts, washers, etc rather than using the DIN stuff provided by FROR in your qst page write up.

Specifically the bolt diameter, pitch, and length.

Regarding studs, @cruisermatt was mentioning that EVO studs work. What upgraded studs are people running with the IFS hubs?
 
blast cabinet worked way better than the naval jelly.

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The Matrix studs should be a bit longer then the IFS studs. I am running the Evo studs since I am wanting to use 80 series alloy wheels (thick WMS) and possibly a 1/2” spacer.
I don’t know if the knurl on the Evo studs will work with the IFS hubs, I’m pressing them into my rotors on the backside of the rotor.
 
Anyone know off hand if the IFS 4runner hubs and the landcruiser hubs use the same bearing sizes? Given the spindles and hardware all look to be about the same size I am thinking yes.
 
They are the same bearings. Same bearings as the FJ and FZJ80 as well in fact.
 
Totally hijacking this thread.

Prepped spare knuckles this evening. They are going to sand blast and paint tomorrow.

A friend needed a spare knuckle years back when he broke a stud so I had to remove the damaged stud from the core he gave me before tomorrow.
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Getting close! Rebuilt the tundra calipers and fresh paint.

Grabbed some McMaster JIS hardware to replace the DIN hardware that came with the kit.

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Wow. Very nice.
 
@Randy88FJ62 could you tell if the FROR caliper brackets were machined or waterjet/laser/plasma cut?
 
They did not appear to me machined. I don’t know which exact cutting process they may have used but it was not a CNC mill. No end mill marks.
 

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