If this is a permanent issue can the caliper be shifted in or out to adjust? Does the caliper bolt to the inside or outside
of the caliper mount?
Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter 60Works
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If this is a permanent issue can the caliper be shifted in or out to adjust? Does the caliper bolt to the inside or outside
of the caliper mount?
I didn’t try it, but heard that if you jack the whole car And then put it in 4Lo 1st with a angle grinder you can grind until the brake disc fits over the hubs.
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They’re hens teeth around it here it seems.I might need a second pair! Let me know if you get more or have extras.
And that’s a lot of spare wheel bearings you have now too!!
They didn’t charge for the bearings this time so I took advantage. Spook has one set so I have one extra that needs a home. Whether it’s you or someone else.
They will be easy to get in th future too. Benefits of living in LA
They will be easy to get in th future too. Benefits of living in LA
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pandasfj
SILVER Star
Randy, I'll be interested in a set if you happen to get a few more. I'd like to try this setup just to see if my 16" wheels would work, if not then I would go back to stock. Let me know thanks.
The yard sells them at $12 a pop. So $24 is parts. Then you add shipping since they are heavy. So I’m not sure how amazing of a deal it is but I can see how it would be helpful if you don’t have access to a large parts yard in a big city.
Luckily I can get free used boxes and bubble wrap at work so it really comes down to what my time is worth for the ih8mud community.
Luckily I can get free used boxes and bubble wrap at work so it really comes down to what my time is worth for the ih8mud community.
- Thread starter
- #47
The caliper bolts inboard of the mount so it can't be shimmed with a washer. The Tundra rotor sits deeper than the Tacoma. It might be possible to use Tacoma calipers and Tundra rotors. This would shift it about as much the opposite direction (larger gap on the outboard pad) which could be shimmed.
The true fix would be to shape or mill the adapter plates. This would get expensive on an already expensive mod. Seems like losing some of the life of the pad is the cheapest route.
I'd have to see the clearances. Maybe start with a 1/2 thick plate and mill the inside a bit to offset the caliper outward.
- Thread starter
- #49
The milling wouldn't be too difficult but once you mill off 1/16" of 1/2" plate there aren't many threads left to capture the high strength bolts. This would then add the need for welding a nut or more metal on the opposite side. It needs more threads anyway, so this would make a better product. I'll try to take some pictures tomorrow. It will make perfect sense when you see a top view.
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So you start with 5/8... I've built caliper mount of 1" before. Better right than cheap. I assume the calipers use a 12mm bolt.
You'd want at least 1/2" of full thread engagement. Anything beyond that is just an extra safety thing .
You'd want at least 1/2" of full thread engagement. Anything beyond that is just an extra safety thing .
- Thread starter
- #51
Would love to see you refine this concept and market a milled adapter with high quality fasteners, Dave.
Thicker material adds to unsprung weight. I wonder if OME or Blistin have a shock that can compensate for the added weight of the large rotor and caliper. They are quite heavy when all added together.
Thicker material adds to unsprung weight. I wonder if OME or Blistin have a shock that can compensate for the added weight of the large rotor and caliper. They are quite heavy when all added together.
@lcwizard and @60Works
Let's say you are running tundra calipers and rotors with the adapter sold by FROR as this entire thread is built upon.
When the pads get to an extreme low, would the brake pads offset spacing issue described in post #41 and shown in pictures on the first page become a safety issue? Would you wear down to bare metal on one brake pad before it would screech at you they were low?
And, is this just a powerstop issue? You mentioned they may be using the same parts for tundra / tacoma etc. I am grabbing a friend's seet of tundra calipers and rotors (used OEM).
Lastly, when I am ordering, which do I order? Their website gives these options for the adapter mounting plate.
* Using Brakes From
Let's say you are running tundra calipers and rotors with the adapter sold by FROR as this entire thread is built upon.
When the pads get to an extreme low, would the brake pads offset spacing issue described in post #41 and shown in pictures on the first page become a safety issue? Would you wear down to bare metal on one brake pad before it would screech at you they were low?
And, is this just a powerstop issue? You mentioned they may be using the same parts for tundra / tacoma etc. I am grabbing a friend's seet of tundra calipers and rotors (used OEM).
Lastly, when I am ordering, which do I order? Their website gives these options for the adapter mounting plate.
* Using Brakes From
96-'04 Tacoma Brakes
03+ FJ Cruiser Brakes
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Wow, I just figured they were milled brackets. They’re lasered? That isn’t an issue but the caliper not being in the correct place because of keeping costs down (not machining the adapter correctly) is pretty lame. I’m sure it will work fine, but lacks attention to detail.
Also, is it an illusion or is there a bit of pad that’s sticking past the outer edge of the rotor?
I will hopefully be CNCing my prototype caliper brackets this week...just sayin...
Also, is it an illusion or is there a bit of pad that’s sticking past the outer edge of the rotor?
I will hopefully be CNCing my prototype caliper brackets this week...just sayin...
@Randy88FJ62
I actually have no clue without getting a set in hand. I've never seen the product or installed it. Generally a bigger rotor , better heat sink.
A cruiser disc is 11 7/8" diameter with a .785 thickness
4 runner Tundra and FJcruiser is 12.55 x 1.1
All the same rotor size should theoretically offer the same potential
The calipers have different part #s so I suppose the difference could be there. Best guess is go by GVWR
I'll need to talk to Redline. Justin claims to have a big brake kit running a 13.5" rotor.
Braking is just a product of heat management. Everything needs to get bigger. Making a
rotor larger gives you more braking leverage but without increasing overall mass I think it will actually fade faster.
Long downhills may get worse if your truck is like mine , 500~1000lbs over stock.
I don't think there a FJCruiser til 07
I actually have no clue without getting a set in hand. I've never seen the product or installed it. Generally a bigger rotor , better heat sink.
A cruiser disc is 11 7/8" diameter with a .785 thickness
4 runner Tundra and FJcruiser is 12.55 x 1.1
All the same rotor size should theoretically offer the same potential
The calipers have different part #s so I suppose the difference could be there. Best guess is go by GVWR
I'll need to talk to Redline. Justin claims to have a big brake kit running a 13.5" rotor.
Braking is just a product of heat management. Everything needs to get bigger. Making a
rotor larger gives you more braking leverage but without increasing overall mass I think it will actually fade faster.
Long downhills may get worse if your truck is like mine , 500~1000lbs over stock.
I don't think there a FJCruiser til 07
I emailed the company this am for clarification on which adapter to buy and this was their response. I am a bit confused and concerned. I don’t want to do this upgrade and end up down a deep hole.
Their response:
“The tundra seems to vary in results. I would recommend the fj cruiser kit, as every time we've test fit here, the spacer on that kit is required. If for some reason it end up not being needed, you can just flip the bracket over so the spacer is not being used, and it will line up that way.”
Their response confuses me. I may need to call them.
Their response:
“The tundra seems to vary in results. I would recommend the fj cruiser kit, as every time we've test fit here, the spacer on that kit is required. If for some reason it end up not being needed, you can just flip the bracket over so the spacer is not being used, and it will line up that way.”
Their response confuses me. I may need to call them.
Looking at rotor specs The 2013 4runner has a 13.3 dia x 1.25 rotor. If I was going to the trouble I might want to work around those
Ø12.6 x 1.1 thick for the tundra versus Ø13.3 x 1.25 thick as you list for the 2013 4Runner. That's .35" more of pad engagement on the radial. The thickness is also an discussion for heat dissipation?
So I have access to cheap rotors and calipers off a tundra plus $24 IFS hubs and free machining. not sure I want to source 4runner stuff at the moment.
So I have access to cheap rotors and calipers off a tundra plus $24 IFS hubs and free machining. not sure I want to source 4runner stuff at the moment.
For the question of which bracket to order this is the one that I used:
Front Range Off Road bracket 96-04 Tacoma Version.
Here is everything I sourced for the mod on my build thread, post #173.
forum.ih8mud.com
Front Range Off Road bracket 96-04 Tacoma Version.
Here is everything I sourced for the mod on my build thread, post #173.
Builds - FitzJ60 1983 FJ60 Build
ABS Sensor Delete cover. These will get painted then FIPG behind them.
forum.ih8mud.com
@NookShneer
Thanks for the link to your brake swap. In your opinion was it worth the time?
Thanks for the link to your brake swap. In your opinion was it worth the time?
- Thread starter
- #60
Randy, I don't think the pad offset is a safety issue. I just means you would have to change the pads a little early. One side would reach the wear mark early, then you change both. By the time they're worn that thin, its a good idea anyway.
I have no evidence that Powerstop has provided the wrong part. It's much more likely that FROR considered the 1/16" offset inconsequential. If you are using matched calipers and rotors, you should be fine.
When I ordered FROR's kit, more than a year ago, there wasn't an option between Taco and FJC. It was only Tundra. I don't know which is appropriate for the Tundra brakes now. I did call Brian and left a message but haven't heard back yet. It's quite possible they have made improvements to the offset. Hopefully FROR will want to educate us on their product and will provide good tech to keep us building.
Part numbers on Toyota's website vary between the Taco, FJC, and Tundra for the years listed. RockAuto has some cross over applicability 'implied' in their "info" links. None had actual measurements like what was provided for the rotors to check the caliper mounting hole locations.
The FROR adapters appeared to be lasered 1/2" plate, unpainted. Fit and finish was 'good enough' for parts that will be covered in birf sludge in a couple of years. The tapped threads in the caliper bolt holes were 'rough' and I had to chase them with a tap (M12 x 1.25) before I felt comfortable mounting the calipers.
I used Tundra brakes so its very likely that one of their options is the same as the original. Tundra brakes will work and my HJ stops great. If Redline had a 'bigger' brake option, I would consider it for future applications. I do like this kit because it is nearly all Toyota from readily available models. An adapter that fits a specialty caliper becomes scrap when that caliper is discontinued. Or it cannot be sourced on short notice while on the trail. Sometimes easy to find and 'good enough' is better than rare and 'best available'.
