Brake Problems-- Stuck Caliper Pistons? (1 Viewer)

[Dirt J]

My hunch is #1 will make it drivable. I don't think the damage to the caliper makes in unusable. Resurface rotor like already mentioned.

Useful video:

 

[medtro]

Thanks everyone for their advice. I think @hoser is right about the bearings. There is just no way the rotor should move like that (see the video). They were either not preloaded properly, not locked into place properly, or both. And I think @Malleus is probably right about the pins--they may be binding up and they are easy to replace.

So it seems like these are the options:

1) just properly tighten down and preload the bearings, and lock everything down with the locknuts. And maybe new pins to be safe.

2) Remove the rotor, regrease the bearings, then do 1)

3) Buy a new rotor, new bearings, new seals, install and then do 1). And then install new pads.

OR

4) Buy a new rotor, new bearings, new seals, install and then do 1). And then install new pads AND a new caliper (it does look like there may be a goove in the caliper).

Which one should we do?

Thanks again

1) If the cruiser is at home, I would remove rotor and inspect all the parts, then decide what to buy.

2) If the cruiser is on a trail, then I would just repack the bearing by tightening the lock nuts, get it home and do #1.

 

[Malleus]

We will need new seals if we remove the rotor and remove and repack the bearings.

But not if we just tightened down the axle/bearing nuts to properly preload without removing rotor-- so it seems like you are saying we definitely should remove the rotor, repack the bearings at a minimum, right?

And I did some searching, and found this thread. When this guy's locknuts came loose it damaged the threads on his spindle. Let's hope that is not the case here.

Sorry, I meant to say that if you remove the hub and repack the bearings, you'll need need new seal(s). You can certainly try to adjust the bearing preload. That may solve your problem. It's hard to say without seeing it; it'd be a judgement call on your end. Again, I'd try the wiggle test before I broke the hub down.

 

[sjpitts]

Thanks for all the advice.

I am not super confident in our ability to accurately determine if the bearings are OK. Who knows how long they have been riding with the incorrect preload. And once we take them out it would seem foolish to put the same bearings back in unless we are 100 percent sure. So I think we will end up just replacing the bearings, or at least buying the kit to have them on hand.

Cruiser Outfitters is not too far from them and they have the bearing kit (with all the bearings, seals and locknuts), the rotor, and the 54mm hub socket. But they don't appear to have calipers. At least not 100 series calipers.

So what is the recommended source for 100 series calipers? Presumably we would just use the remaned caliper and not a new one.

Thanks again

Jared

 

[hoser]

IMO, you don't need a new caliper nor rotor. Just resurface that rotor. It was new a year ago. The area the caliper wore away is solid with lots of material. Bearings and races, maybe. If you can't find 54mm socket, 2-1/8" deep socket is fine too.

 

[cruiseroutfit]

Thanks for all the advice.

I am not super confident in our ability to accurately determine if the bearings are OK. Who knows how long they have been riding with the incorrect preload. And once we take them out it would seem foolish to put the same bearings back in unless we are 100 percent sure. So I think we will end up just replacing the bearings, or at least buying the kit to have them on hand.

Cruiser Outfitters is not too far from them and they have the bearing kit (with all the bearings, seals and locknuts), the rotor, and the 54mm hub socket. But they don't appear to have calipers. At least not 100 series calipers.

So what is the recommended source for 100 series calipers? Presumably we would just use the remaned caliper and not a new one.

Thanks again

Jared

Shoot our parts team an email, we *should* have 100/470 calipers in stock but they may not be on our new CruiserTeq.com site yet.

Info@cruiseroutfitters.com

 

[bigredmachine]

you could also try the napa eclipse remans, last set i bought there were toyota cores. dont greas the pins for the front calipers, itll just trap and dirt and such and cause the pads to bind up anyways

 

[Dirt J]

you could also try the napa eclipse remans, last set i bought there were toyota cores. dont greas the pins for the front calipers, itll just trap and dirt and such and cause the pads to bind up anyways

Good info. I'm assuming there are some kind of markings to determine it's a genuine core?

 

[bigredmachine]

it may have a toyota logo or certain numbers cast into the core, i dont really remember its been a while since ive had to do calipers

 

[sjpitts]

Well this has turned out to be a big mess.

First, we pull the dust cap and the c-clip is just sitting at the end of the axle shaft. No longer in the groove.

Second, it took us a while to get the hub off. They had used some sort of gasket goop instead of the paper gasket, and it was a bit of a challenge to get all the cone washers out and to separate the hub.

When we finally get the hub off this is what we see:

 

[sjpitts]

The outer spindle nut was just sitting there loose.

The lock washer was broken into pieces.

We are able to unscrew the inner spindle nut and pull off the rotor, but when tried to screw either spindle nut back on to the spindle we couldn't do it. Either the threads on both spindle nuts are damaged, the threads on the spindle are damaged. Or all three.

We didn't have any new spindle nuts, to try, so we hit every auto store in the area but no one had any in stock.

 

[sjpitts]

And two more things--the inner wheel bearing seal was damaged when we pulled it off, and it looks like the inner lip on the spindle dust seal is missing chunks.

 

[sjpitts]

So as I said before, we are trying to find some new spindle nuts so we can first figure out if the threads on the spindle itself are damaged. If they are we will try and clean them up, but we are also going to have to figure out if there is other damage to the spindle. Or maybe just buy a new spindle to be safe (although I don't see one on the cruiserteq website. I hope they are available)

And with the damage to the "lip" on the dust seal I think we are definitely going to need a new one of these (and the gasket that goes under it)

Spindle Dust Seal

And who knows what else.

Needless to say, this sucks.

 

[medtro]

We didn't have any new spindle nuts, to try, so we hit every auto store in the area but no one had any in stock.

You have 2 on the other wheel, which you should check too

 

[3_puppies]

for some reason I'm thinking the spindle is the entire assembly that attaches to the upper and lower "A" arms

you'll get it sorted out.

 

[Roosevelt T]

Jeez, they really messed up that job. Who did the work for the PO?

 

[RyanGriffith]

Jeez, they really messed up that job. Who did the work for the PO?

Doctor Automotive - North Cave Creek, Phoenix, AZ. Needless to say, they’re on my s***-list.

12 month warranty, done 14 months ago. Don’t think I’d have any luck with them

 

[medtro]

Doctor Automotive - North Cave Creek, Phoenix, AZ. Needless to say, they’re on my s***-list.

12 month warranty, done 14 months ago. Don’t think I’d have any luck with them

May be you will have better luck if you forward them this URL. Do you want them to goop your cone washers again?

 

[Roosevelt T]

Doctor Automotive - North Cave Creek, Phoenix, AZ. Needless to say, they’re on my s***-list.

12 month warranty, done 14 months ago. Don’t think I’d have any luck with them

Horrible. Thanks, that's good to know.

Looks like you're in UT now, but if you need someone local to Phx, let me know.

 

[sjpitts]

So we had to order new spindle nuts -- not even the Toyota Dealer had them in stock. We ordered two sets of nuts (thinking about the other side), along with a spindle dust shield and gasket from cruiserteq.

And after searching-- those spindles are expensive. 690 bucks from toyota parts deal. So needless to say, we are hoping the spindle is OK.


We took another look, and to me the spindle threads look good. But I do see some "rub rings" on the spindle bearing surfaces. What do you think of that? Please tell us it looks ok Thanks

Here are pictures of the spindle:

Thanks again