I'm late to this part. Sorry! Perhaps this will help with other side and others that find they've similar issue(s).
I've lost track, of how many times I've seen this type of poor service work. Fact is 98% of all 100 series I've inspected and or serviced. I find errors in the wheel bearing & brake service.
Post #1 pads assembled wrong. They're missing the
fitting kit, Which is clue further inspection needed, to any work performed at same time pads installed.
Second clue parts list. Screamed, deeper inspection and oil change ASAP. Why, they use aftermarket parts. Also High Mileage oil (HM), is a sure fired way to damage every rubber seal in the engine.
The above video on wheel bearing, is full of the classic mistakes. It will get you down the road for awhile. But if it makes the 30K before next service due. There will be damage.
A few key mistakes:
- Never tap directly on hub flange, especial at side of cone washer. The result is very often warping the cone washer seat and or matting surface of hub flange and wheel hub.
- Where one can use 54mm nut on spindle, to pop off rear hub seal as he did. You risk damage to spindle, nut, bearing and race. It's easy enough to pop out while hub on the bench, without risk of damage.
- Lube the axle needle bearing & brass bushing. Which is clearly stated in the, as a PM at 30K mile also.
- Torqueing 54mm adjusting nut to only 4.3 to 6.5N.m (38 - 57 INCH-lbf), is way to loose. This is only a starting point, for setting breakaway preload with a spring scale (fish scale) of 9.5 -15lbf. With junky old bearings, I'd hit ~20-40ft-lbf on adjusting nut, new bearings I hit ~47-54ft-lbf, very good bearings well broken-in bearings I hit 65 to 80ft-lbf torque to get a breakaway preload of ~12.5lb. This is with very clean bearings, fresh Mobil 1 grease at 68f to 80f bearing temp.
- Do not reuse snap ring (SR). Doing so and they'll likely to pop off. Worst, typically before they pop off. They've damaged the groove on the axle. Now that $2 SR savings, just damaged a ~$600 FDS (aka CV).
- Gap the snap ring. FSM states we need a gap of less than 0.20mm, If greater, go up in size (thickness).
- Do not reuse grease cap. Doing so and water entry likely.
I've run into glued (FIPG) on hub flanges a few times. First time I had no idea why the cone washer were not popping out. Until I found, they were glued in. I spent a great deal of time, P-oil and heat (flame) plus pounding on studs with a brass dowel.
Since that experience. I learned to watch for glued on hub flanges. I also put a very cool brass & hammer replacement.
So much faster & less fatigue.
I've use a brass dwell and 5lb sledge hammer for years, which works fine. But pneumatic works so much faster and is so much easier. BTW; in video i say "litt...
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It is best to use only Toyota caliper. Either new or reman for the front. Why: To often the OEM bleeders, pistons and seals will not fit aftermarket calipers. When dealing with rear OEM new is best. As rear Toyota reman calipers, do not include mounting plate, new does.
I notice your wheel hub damaged, form being pounded on. I see this a lot also. Most I can restore, but make running out hub, waste of time. Since the face of the hub if a precision machined parts. But does does matter, if a OTV brake lathe used. As they true rotor run-out to the vehicle.
But still yo do want the surface flat. When the get pound on, it creates protrusions. This throws off wheel run-out. Additionally, when wheel lugs torque down. We may get a false torque, due to wheel not being flush with wheel hub. As vehicle driven, hubs hard steel starts digging into softer metal of wheel. They then wobble and cam break the the lugs studs off. You'll see examples in mud. They common thinking is over toque brake the studs, which is not likely. It's much more likely the force of wheel wobble snap them off.
Your wheel hub
View attachment 3456462
Here's one wheel hub I would not restore, just to much damage. I'm only showing few points of damage on it, it had many. The metal was so damaged by pounding off rotor using wrong procedure. It split the metal of wheel hub and created high spots where it matts to wheel.
View attachment 3456470
View attachment 3456471
This wheel was found loose on the vehicle. Likely it was torqued on to spec, but loosened after as it was driven.
View attachment 3456472