I agree as well - an 80 to wheel, plus a reasonably built 200 as a DD would be about perfect...... my wife is angling for another 200 to replace the German SUV I bought her.....
Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Box Rocket
- Start date
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Bludozer
SILVER Star
Yes. Buy the 200 "for your wife" this way you can have access to both. I am keen to this strategy as well.
With black flares & bumper I agree it's hard to tell there is a body lift installed. My body lift was more noticeable with black & silver.Couple more. If you know it has a body lift you can tell it's there. But if you didn't know, I don't think it's that noticeable.
IconWheels and Toyos by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
IMG_3428 by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #784
Another reason that #blackflaresarebest
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #785
Installed some hood vents that I've had on the shelf for months. I got these to work with my hood scoop. My theory is that air coming into the engine bay through the scoop will circulate more air under the hood and the vents will let hot air out, and hopefully result in lower engine bay temps as well as coolant temps in hotter months. The vents are designed to create a low pressure area so hopefully there's a bit of suction that will pull hot air out. Time will tell how this works, but it will be a few months until we get into the really hot summer months before I'll know just how effective this mod is.
Started with some Range Rover side vents. Used a little bondo to fill in the embossed letters.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Then used some carbon fiber vinyl I had a few scraps of to wrap the part I had bondo'd
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
If you think cutting a hole for a snorkel is nerve wracking, try cutting massive holes for a hood scoop and vents.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
These vents come with a bit of short ducting on the base. This should help reduce some of the water from rain etc that can get on engine parts. With where these are located I'm not too worried about it. The driver side duct needed a little custom clearancing and is over the back corner of the charcoal canister, and the passenger side is over the edge of the air box. Neither spot is too vulnerable for water issues. Little hard to see through the vents but maybe you can make it out.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Charcoal canister in there.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Edge of the airbox.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
A few of the result.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Started with some Range Rover side vents. Used a little bondo to fill in the embossed letters.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrThen used some carbon fiber vinyl I had a few scraps of to wrap the part I had bondo'd
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrIf you think cutting a hole for a snorkel is nerve wracking, try cutting massive holes for a hood scoop and vents.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrThese vents come with a bit of short ducting on the base. This should help reduce some of the water from rain etc that can get on engine parts. With where these are located I'm not too worried about it. The driver side duct needed a little custom clearancing and is over the back corner of the charcoal canister, and the passenger side is over the edge of the air box. Neither spot is too vulnerable for water issues. Little hard to see through the vents but maybe you can make it out.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrCharcoal canister in there.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrEdge of the airbox.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrA few of the result.
Hoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrHoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrHoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrHoodvents by Adam Tolman, on FlickrHoodvents by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
That looks better than I thought it would. It almost makes the hood scoop lackluster now.
Happy Easter, Mr. Rocket.
Happy Easter, Mr. Rocket.
If you would have told me your plan before you did it, I would have told you "don't do it". Now that it's done, I stand corrected. Those vents turned out great.
Now you need to wrap the hood scoop :/
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #789
Do you have some knowledge about these vents I should know that would make you say "don't do it?"
No, I just would have thought the look of those intricate (and very LR looking) vents wouldn't have flowed with the 80. The carbon fiber overlay was a great idea. I think the end product turned out really well.
Your landy having dimples is cool but Michelle smiling while water the lawn make's Angie and miss you guys.Installed some hood vents that I've had on the shelf for months. I got these to work with my hood scoop. My theory is that air coming into the engine bay through the scoop will circulate more air under the hood and the vents will let hot air out, and hopefully result in lower engine bay temps as well as coolant temps in hotter months. The vents are designed to create a low pressure area so hopefully there's a bit of suction that will pull hot air out. Time will tell how this works, but it will be a few months until we get into the really hot summer months before I'll know just how effective this mod is.
Started with some Range Rover side vents. Used a little bondo to fill in the embossed letters.
Then used some carbon fiber vinyl I had a few scraps of to wrap the part I had bondo'd
If you think cutting a hole for a snorkel is nerve wracking, try cutting massive holes for a hood scoop and vents.
These vents come with a bit of short ducting on the base. This should help reduce some of the water from rain etc that can get on engine parts. With where these are located I'm not too worried about it. The driver side duct needed a little custom clearancing and is over the back corner of the charcoal canister, and the passenger side is over the edge of the air box. Neither spot is too vulnerable for water issues. Little hard to see through the vents but maybe you can make it out.
Charcoal canister in there.
Edge of the airbox.
A few of the result.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #792
Miss you guys too. Hopefully we have the Slinky run on the calendar again soon.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #793
Little update on the recently installed hood vents. We hit mid-80's temp yesterday and went to run some errands. I was sitting in a drive-up line for a while with the truck on and AC cranked. Did this intentionally since these are the type of situations and conditions that drive my coolant temps up. Sure enough, it climbed up to 204* sitting there with the AC cranked. Not terrible, but warmer than I like.
Once I got out of the line and started moving again, the temps dropped much faster than normal, and dropped more than normal too. In these conditions, the truck would normally run at about 194*. But this time temps dropped down as low as 183*. That's definitely unusual. At these ambient temps and driving I'd normally never drop below 190*.
More testing and data to gather but this is feeling promising so far.
Once I got out of the line and started moving again, the temps dropped much faster than normal, and dropped more than normal too. In these conditions, the truck would normally run at about 194*. But this time temps dropped down as low as 183*. That's definitely unusual. At these ambient temps and driving I'd normally never drop below 190*.
More testing and data to gather but this is feeling promising so far.
Interested in your long-term experiences, my rudimentary understanding of aero is the hood/cowl area is low pressure at low speed but transitions to a high pressure area at a certain point due to air bunching up as it hits the windshield. With the steep windshield and boxy shape of the 80 that may happen at a lower speed relative to something more streamlined, but maybe your vents and scoop are extracting the hot, stagnant air that normally sits just under the hood and keeping everything cooler.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #795
As speed increases, airflow that hits the grill and the front of the hood should be arching higher over the good toward the windshield. That would leave a pocket of low pressure directly over the hood and make it easier for the hot air to escape or be pulled out through the vents.
The vent designs themselves also help a little. The outside frame of the vents is higher than where the opening is so air has to accelerate over the higher frame. That make it lower pressure at the opening and the faster air above can pull air out.
The idea with the scoop was that it would draw air into the engine compartment to create a high pressure area around the engine. High pressure in the engine compartment and low pressure above the hood (and a way for the high pressure air to get out) is the right recipe, just gotta find out if the theory works in reality. So far so good.
for a vehicle that has very poor aerodynamics overall, it’s weird to even talk about airflow in the same sentence with an 80. The only way to find out if the idea would really work or not was to try it. After a couple more months of summer temps and more driving I should have a better conclusion.
The vent designs themselves also help a little. The outside frame of the vents is higher than where the opening is so air has to accelerate over the higher frame. That make it lower pressure at the opening and the faster air above can pull air out.
The idea with the scoop was that it would draw air into the engine compartment to create a high pressure area around the engine. High pressure in the engine compartment and low pressure above the hood (and a way for the high pressure air to get out) is the right recipe, just gotta find out if the theory works in reality. So far so good.
for a vehicle that has very poor aerodynamics overall, it’s weird to even talk about airflow in the same sentence with an 80. The only way to find out if the idea would really work or not was to try it. After a couple more months of summer temps and more driving I should have a better conclusion.
Road Apple
SILVER Star
Ordering parts for Slinky stage 4 and 37’s. Using the Timbren bumps, I should be at 3 1/2” in the front. Then I should trim about 1.75” off the rear towers. @Box Rocket anything you would do different?
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #797
Every truck is a little different and clearance can be a little different because of weight etc. So I would suggest using an RTI ramp or cycling the suspension with the 37's on to get proper measurements for the bumpstops. Your measurements (specifically for the rear tower) might be a little different than mine.
I am interested in how warm the body of the cruiser gets under your feet and around the transmission tunnel after about 6 hours of highway driving. Mine became quite uncomfortable around then, heat was soaked into the car and no amount of aircon would fix it.
Box Rocket
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #799
I don't think I've ever really had an issue with heat transfer through the floor. Might me some differences between Aussie trim models and US models. Mine is the equivalent of an Aussie Sahara model. I'm not sure but maybe there's different material on the floor for heat shielding and etc.?
@junior80 my wife has complained a little bit about heat coming from the trans tunnel on her side before, but I chalked it up to her just being a complainer. lol
Adam I have some timbre rear bump stops sitting in my garage and will mod them up like you did. Your write up on Instagram was great and will be easy to reference. Thanks!
Adam I have some timbre rear bump stops sitting in my garage and will mod them up like you did. Your write up on Instagram was great and will be easy to reference. Thanks!
