Looks good but man it's crazy how even 37's look small/normal on these
Builds Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build
- Thread starter Box Rocket
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Box Rocket
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- #662
Hope so. Looking forward to getting back out there. Maybe get to run another trail with you?
Box Rocket
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- #663
Yes there is currently still rubbing when flexed. Daily driving is fine right now and moderate suspension movement is no problem. I'm still in the process of making the other necessary changes. I have new from bumpstops coming from EHO, and also a full set of Timbren bumpstops to try. Basically, with the 3" slinky kit a 1" front bumpstop extension and a 2" rear extension should do the trick. I'm also planning to weld in new plates to the radius arm frame brackets to move the front axle forward ~1" to better clear the firewall. I've also done some minor flare trimming.
Hopefully have these steps completed soon and ready for full flex.
For sure, All ready registered & waiting trail selection. If you are going to be a trail leader this year, I may be interested in trail gunner for you if needed.
Adam,
Do you think removing your wheel spacers would help tuck the wheels in some and help with the rub issue ?
Box Rocket
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- #666
It might help a little with the wheels turned. Maybe a 12.5" wide tire could tuck a little better without spacers, but with the 13.5 width of these tires I think I'd be addressing the same issues with or without the spacers.
Box Rocket
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- #668
Good pics brosky. Those show well how a 37 will tuck in the rear. There are a couple reasons why I am still using the spacers. First is that I like the wider stance. Secondly, keeping the tires from rubbing the frame is part of it. But also, I have a new set of Timbren bumpstops I'm planning to run and they can rub the inside of the tire at full stuff in the rear so the extra room from the spacers helps with that too. Third, and least important is that they allow me to run the center caps on the Icon wheels I have. I could ditch the center caps, but the wheels definitely look more "finished" with the caps in place.
Box Rocket
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- #669
On the topic of 37's and proper fitment. I started to address the bumpstops this weekend. Different suspension setups might need a slightly different solution but this will work well for the 3" Slinky suspension. Just to review, a 3" Slinky kit with 35's is an excellent combination and doesn't require a few extra mods that are necessary to run 37's. With 35's, no front bumpstop modification is necessary. With 37's, you want to have an additional 1" of bumpstop. That could be just adding a spacer to the stock inside the coil bumpstop, but there's an easier solution that doesn't require removal of the coil. The Slinky kit already comes with a 1" taller bumpstop for the rear (it measures 3.5") that is used with 35's. I got another pair of these bumpstops from Kevin at Endless Horizon Outfitters and it was a simple bolt-on bumpstop to the front frame. These add the necessary additional 1" needed to keep 37's for jamming into the wheel arches, but still maximize travel.
Here's the taller bumpstop.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Bolted in place using the factory threaded holes on the frame. Note: I think '93-'94 US spec 80s have the holes but not the captured nuts in this location. the '95 and later trucks should have captured nuts. I haven't verified this 100% but this appears to be the case, so if someone with an earlier model wanted to use these bumpstops, a captured nut would need to be welded in or the bumpstop could be attached with two short welds.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
3.5" total height.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
I have had some of @LandCruiserPhil 's swaybar disconnect brackets installed in this same spot and I had to remove them in order to use these bumpstops. I've found that with the Slinky kit there is very little difference in wheel travel with or without the swaybar attached. But I've still liked having the brackets. One example of why they've been helpful even if I don't regularly disconnect the swaybar, is while on a trip this past summer, the swaybar bushings at the axle came apart and fell out, leaving the swaybar eye clanking around on the pin. It was nice to disconnect the swaybar and pin it up purely for the sake of not having to listen to the noise, but also so I didn't damage the eyes or the pins with no bushing in place.
I plan to modify the brackets so that I can continue to have the option of disconnecting the swaybar.
Here's the taller bumpstop.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on FlickrBolted in place using the factory threaded holes on the frame. Note: I think '93-'94 US spec 80s have the holes but not the captured nuts in this location. the '95 and later trucks should have captured nuts. I haven't verified this 100% but this appears to be the case, so if someone with an earlier model wanted to use these bumpstops, a captured nut would need to be welded in or the bumpstop could be attached with two short welds.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr3.5" total height.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on FlickrI have had some of @LandCruiserPhil 's swaybar disconnect brackets installed in this same spot and I had to remove them in order to use these bumpstops. I've found that with the Slinky kit there is very little difference in wheel travel with or without the swaybar attached. But I've still liked having the brackets. One example of why they've been helpful even if I don't regularly disconnect the swaybar, is while on a trip this past summer, the swaybar bushings at the axle came apart and fell out, leaving the swaybar eye clanking around on the pin. It was nice to disconnect the swaybar and pin it up purely for the sake of not having to listen to the noise, but also so I didn't damage the eyes or the pins with no bushing in place.
I plan to modify the brackets so that I can continue to have the option of disconnecting the swaybar.
On the topic of 37's and proper fitment. I started to address the bumpstops this weekend. Different suspension setups might need a slightly different solution but this will work well for the 3" Slinky suspension. Just to review, a 3" Slinky kit with 35's is an excellent combination and doesn't require a few extra mods that are necessary to run 37's. With 35's, no front bumpstop modification is necessary. With 37's, you want to have an additional 1" of bumpstop. That could be just adding a spacer to the stock inside the coil bumpstop, but there's an easier solution that doesn't require removal of the coil. The Slinky kit already comes with a 1" taller bumpstop for the rear (it measures 3.5") that is used with 35's. I got another pair of these bumpstops from Kevin at Endless Horizon Outfitters and it was a simple bolt-on bumpstop to the front frame. These add the necessary additional 1" needed to keep 37's for jamming into the wheel arches, but still maximize travel.
Here's the taller bumpstop.
Bolted in place using the factory threaded holes on the frame. Note: I think '93-'94 US spec 80s have the holes but not the captured nuts in this location. the '95 and later trucks should have captured nuts. I haven't verified this 100% but this appears to be the case, so if someone with an earlier model wanted to use these bumpstops, a captured nut would need to be welded in or the bumpstop could be attached with two short welds.
3.5" total height.
I have had some of @LandCruiserPhil 's swaybar disconnect brackets installed in this same spot and I had to remove them in order to use these bumpstops. I've found that with the Slinky kit there is very little difference in wheel travel with or without the swaybar attached. But I've still liked having the brackets. One example of why they've been helpful even if I don't regularly disconnect the swaybar, is while on a trip this past summer, the swaybar bushings at the axle came apart and fell out, leaving the swaybar eye clanking around on the pin. It was nice to disconnect the swaybar and pin it up purely for the sake of not having to listen to the noise, but also so I didn't damage the eyes or the pins with no bushing in place.
I plan to modify the brackets so that I can continue to have the option of disconnecting the swaybar.
Have you seen the bump stops for inside the coil that @Hitit66 is now making? Very nice billet aluminum and you can keep the brackets.
FWIW I can hit the top of the fender wells with 35's and OME 850J
Box Rocket
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- #671
The other swaybar related thing I tackled this weekend was to replace the front swaybar spacers. I have been running a set of spacers that were on my last 80 with the OME kit. When I did the Slinky kit on my current truck it wasn't exactly purchased as the standard kit and I didn't get the f/r swaybar spacers since I already had them. The old front spacers were only 1.5" tall. They worked fine with my OME kit, but with the Slinky kit they have resulted in some contact with my DC front driveshaft at full droop. So I picked up a set of the spacers that are part of the Slinky kit to replace my old ones.
Old vs new.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
where the swaybar has contacted the driveshaft. Not a big deal since it's just the dust cap but a good thing to take care of.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Old vs new.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickrwhere the swaybar has contacted the driveshaft. Not a big deal since it's just the dust cap but a good thing to take care of.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on FlickrSlinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Box Rocket
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- #672
Yes I have. There are several inside the coil options that would work. But it's nice that these work without needing to remove the coil.
And yes.. I also had my 35's hit the top of the fenderwell. The 37's will too even with the new bumpstops. My thinking is if you don't have a little rubbing you can fit bigger tires. This will just keep the contact so it won't damage anything.
Box Rocket
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- #673
OK last piece of the puzzle regarding bumpstops. I got a full set of bumpstops from Timbren. I've heard good feedback from @woody and others who have Timbrens and since woody also has the Slinky suspension I was particularly interested in his opinion of them. He's a fan, so I got some to address the rear, but was also sent a pair for the front if I want to try them. Here's what I got from Timbren.
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
The short ones are the fronts. They would need to have the bracket trimmed a little so that they don't contact the coil during compression. But when compressed they should be the same height as the Slinky bumpstops I just installed so if I decide to use these they should work fairly easily.
Front:
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
The rears are another story. I don't know how Timbren is designing these for the rear with that massive bracket. Even with a 6" lift these would be too tall. But at least its a simple cut and weld to shorten the brackets. These also would need to be trimmed to not contact the spring and tire in the rear but I can get these set to add the additional 1" to the rear for the 37's. My initial calculations end up with a bracket that's roughly 1.5" tall. I'll post an update when I get them modified and proper fitment is confirmed.
Rear:
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on FlickrThe short ones are the fronts. They would need to have the bracket trimmed a little so that they don't contact the coil during compression. But when compressed they should be the same height as the Slinky bumpstops I just installed so if I decide to use these they should work fairly easily.
Front:
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on FlickrThe rears are another story. I don't know how Timbren is designing these for the rear with that massive bracket. Even with a 6" lift these would be too tall. But at least its a simple cut and weld to shorten the brackets. These also would need to be trimmed to not contact the spring and tire in the rear but I can get these set to add the additional 1" to the rear for the 37's. My initial calculations end up with a bracket that's roughly 1.5" tall. I'll post an update when I get them modified and proper fitment is confirmed.
Rear:
Slinky Parts by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Box Rocket
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- #674
After the bumpstops are sorted, the last step will be to relocate the front axle ~1.5" forward. I plan to do this using the method Darren McRae has been using in Australia for some time now with the Slinky kits and factory radius arms. New plates are welded in to the frame bracket for the radius arms and new holes drilled farther forward. These will give better tire clearance at the firewall. Don't want to move it to far or there are clearance issues with the front panhard.
RadiusArmPlates by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
RadiusArmPlates by Adam Tolman, on Flickr
Box Rocket
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- #676
Those do look good Brosky. The little axle pad for the frame bump is kinda neat too.
So I've tossed around the idea of making the Timbrens work inside the coils. I don't think it would be too difficult and would solve any of the spring clearance issues with their brackets. However, Woody brought up a good point when I mentioned this to him a while back. Any bumpstop that's inside the coil will still put the full force of impact on the coil buckets. Woody has bent his coil buckets and had to "repair" them. By keeping the bumpstops mounted to the frame they are at a much stronger location that is less prone to bending than the coil bucket would be.
So I've tossed around the idea of making the Timbrens work inside the coils. I don't think it would be too difficult and would solve any of the spring clearance issues with their brackets. However, Woody brought up a good point when I mentioned this to him a while back. Any bumpstop that's inside the coil will still put the full force of impact on the coil buckets. Woody has bent his coil buckets and had to "repair" them. By keeping the bumpstops mounted to the frame they are at a much stronger location that is less prone to bending than the coil bucket would be.
My 94 came with the Frame mounted Bump stops , they now land on the top of my home made truss so its basically a 1.5" extension. You can see it in the last post. I am still getting substantial rubbing on the inner wheel well. I would be interested in trying some of the Timbren's can you post a part number or link
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Box Rocket
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- #678
I'll check and see if the part number is listed on the sales receipt. When I got them I spoke directly with one of the guys at Timbren and he wasn't sure which ones I should order so he said he'd work with their techs and find the right ones for the 80 series. So I'm not exactly sure which ones they are but I'll try to find out.
are they the same both sides. Passenger side is shorter on the 94.
the passenger side bring 2.5" & drivers 3.5"
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