Build Box Rocket 1995 FZJ80 Build

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The sway will only be an issue if the primary rates arent closed up fully at ride height.

If they arent you have softer coil on initial giving momentum over the firmer rate.

Not all dual rate coils are equal.
 
Box Rocket said:
Halfway through a seat swap. I got a killer deal on these 2011 VW Jetta seats. Leather, heaters. They are a manual slide, but have power recline. The rails are quite a bit wider than the cruiser ones. I did a bit of light hammering to the ridge in the floorboard where the front mount is closest to the ebrake handle because of the rail width. Without a bit of clearancing to that ridge, they sit too close to the door and the door won't close correctly. Driver seat is done and installed. Need to do the passenger seat tonight.

I needed to fabricate new mounts for them, but that was pretty straight forward. I need to hook up the electricals still but drove it to work this morning and the comfort and seating position is so much better for me. The seat bottom is probably about 1" higher than the stock seat bottoms so it will raise the driving position slightly. These seats have a 'tilt' adjustment for the bottom so with that adjusted lower it doesn't feel like you're sitting any higher.
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Any further tips for this? I'm about to buy some VW CC seats with electric lumbar and recline and heat and wondering if you ever got the electrics hooked up. I imagine the actual controls are pretty self contained, just needing power. I want to run the heat off of a Toyota switch, tho I know VW has levels of heat instead of the binary on/off of some switches I've found.
 
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napir said:
Any further tips for this? I'm about to buy some VW CC seats with electric lumbar and recline and heat and wondering if you ever go the electrics hooked up. I imagine the actual controls are pretty self contained, just needing power. I want to run the heat off of a Toyota switch, tho O know VW has levels of heat instead of the binary on/off of some switches I've found.
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I have not completed the wiring but all that’s really needed is power. I tested them before installing and everything worked after supplying power.

That was for the power seat adjustment. I have not looked at the heaters yet.
 
napir said:
Any further tips for this? .
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Keep in mind that the VW seat rails are wider than the Toyota ones so you’re going to need to clearance the floorboard, and it’s also possible that the door pocket will make contact with the seat rail. Mine do just a bit.
 
Box Rocket said:
Keep in mind that the VW seat rails are wider than the Toyota ones so you’re going to need to clearance the floorboard, and it’s also possible that the door pocket will make contact with the seat rail. Mine do just a bit.
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Perfect, thanks. I wasn't sure on the floor clearance and held off, but think I'll probably pick these up.
 
Hey Adam, I was looking at your rear 2.5 shocks and was wondering if yours came with the protective shock covers (rubber accordion cover) or if you had to purchase those separately? If you bought them separately, would you mind sharing where you purchased them from? Mine came without them from EHO.

I'm getting ready to install my 2.5 Slinky shocks and wanted to make sure I had everything before getting started.

Also if you have any pics of how the front reservoirs are mounted that would be really helpful!
 
Mine came with the boots but I got them from Redline before they stopped selling them. Not sure if they stopped including them when EHO took over. If I were you I’d call Kevin over at EHO and ask him about it. Might have just been overlooked. If they don’t have boots I’m sure you could get some from 4Wheel Parts or even on Amazon.

Here’s a photo of the fronts. Let me know if that doesn’t show enough and I’ll see if I have any other photos.
106E7412-4106-4551-B3DF-695BF7CC9E12.webp
 
Box Rocket said:
Mine came with the boots but I got them from Redline before they stopped selling them. Not sure if they stopped including them when EHO took over. If I were you I’d call Kevin over at EHO and ask him about it. Might have just been overlooked. If they don’t have boots I’m sure you could get some from 4Wheel Parts or even on Amazon.

Here’s a photo of the fronts. Let me know if that doesn’t show enough and I’ll see if I have any other photos.
View attachment 1831166
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I'll get in touch with EHO. Thanks for the pic! Looks pretty straightforward.
 
So....stick with 315's or jump to 37's?

I'm replacing my Cooper STT Pros next week (hopefully) and I'm debating with going to a 37. In all honesty my 80 works great with the 315's and has done everything I've wanted to, even the difficult trails, so I don't *need* 37's. I like the look, and have wanted to try them at some point but don't want to screw up a good recipe.

I've got 4.88's. I'm getting some new 17" wheels to replace my current 16's which has kept me out of 37's since hardly anyone makes a 37 for a 16" wheel anymore. Feel free to offer opinions, but I'm kinda just vocalizing where my heads at right now and not sure what I'd like to do.
 
Box Rocket said:
What size? The Toyos right?
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35x12.5x17 Toyo MT's on Icon Alloy Compression wheels is what I put on recently. The below pic is with slinky 75mm HD...same as yours.
20181107_183841.webp
 
Cool. They measure a true 35"? They definitely looked great when I saw you last. Thanks
 
Which wheels? I am about to pull trigger on Method 701s. 4wheelparts has them 20% off.
 
Sweet, Metaltech 25% deal?
 
Box Rocket said:
So....stick with 315's or jump to 37's?

I'm replacing my Cooper STT Pros next week (hopefully) and I'm debating with going to a 37. In all honesty my 80 works great with the 315's and has done everything I've wanted to, even the difficult trails, so I don't *need* 37's. I like the look, and have wanted to try them at some point but don't want to screw up a good recipe.

I've got 4.88's. I'm getting some new 17" wheels to replace my current 16's which has kept me out of 37's since hardly anyone makes a 37 for a 16" wheel anymore. Feel free to offer opinions, but I'm kinda just vocalizing where my heads at right now and not sure what I'd like to do.
Click to expand...
What are you replacing the Cooper STT Pros with? Recent impressive review on EP on these tires. If I go back to MT's I think the SST Pros would be one of my top choices.
 
Box Rocket said:
So....stick with 315's or jump to 37's?

I'm replacing my Cooper STT Pros next week (hopefully) and I'm debating with going to a 37. In all honesty my 80 works great with the 315's and has done everything I've wanted to, even the difficult trails, so I don't *need* 37's. I like the look, and have wanted to try them at some point but don't want to screw up a good recipe.

I've got 4.88's. I'm getting some new 17" wheels to replace my current 16's which has kept me out of 37's since hardly anyone makes a 37 for a 16" wheel anymore. Feel free to offer opinions, but I'm kinda just vocalizing where my heads at right now and not sure what I'd like to do.
Click to expand...
In the exact same boat here. If I'm honest with myself, I don't have a true need for 37s over my 35s but man do they look sweet! It would be nice to have a little extra footprint in certain situations but not sure if that and the looks are worth all the additional modification + drivetrain stress. I still have another 20k miles to go on my current 35s so I'm not there quite yet. Interested to see which route you end up taking.
 
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