Bolt on turbo kit (5 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Oh crap, I forgot about the windshield washer bottle once the turbo goes in and pushes out the OEM one. I have dual batts too and have relocated the OEM unit to next to the CC.
Exactly. Can't do the typical CC area with the turbo or leave as is with dual batts. Kinda kills your options.
 
Dual batteries are over-rated. My single battery setup has been sufficient for 26 years. :)
 
Dual batteries are over-rated. My single battery setup has been sufficient for 26 years. :)
I like the idea of a back-up when out in the middle of nowhere. I've had two batteries drop cells on me in the last 8 years so can't be too careful.
 
My second battery is in my QPM 😜
Enough to run a fridge/compressor/etc? Need to do more research but that's what led me down the rabbit hole of the JDM in fender bottle i've seen mentioned but can't find. Wouldn't mind an in QPM one... Also need a QPM.... haha
 
i recall you saying the slee tank relocate doesn't work with the angle of the air housing, correct?

So its official that the Slee Washer Relocation kit is a no-go? I'm using the 2nd battery location for my winch controller and other things... and it would be great to keep these things AND have a turbo AND a washer/boost-juice reservoir. Therefore, I too am interested in the other washer part number.
 
S L E E O F F R O A D W A S H E R B O T T L E R E L O C A T I O N K I T
L
E
E
O
F
F
R
O
A
D
W
A
S
H
E
R
B
O
T
T
L
E
R
E
L
O
C
A
T
I
O
N
K
I
T
 
I have been searching the archives to learn as much as possible about designing a dual battery system

Since I am the hopeful type, it seems to me I might was well do the Corolla-washer-bottle-mod just in case someday providence grants me the opportunity to install a super charger. (why move the bottle twice?)

Several threads have called out p/n 85331-12690. My local dealer tells me that was ONE of the washer bottles in the Corolla during 1988 - 1992. This weekend I stopped by a local crushing yard. Found a Corolla with a manufacture date of 12/89, assumed that was probably 1990 model year, and $4 later I had my trophy in the FJ40 and I was heading home dreaming of dual bats & a SC in the FZJ80.

The bottle does not have a ten digit part number stamped on it (p/n 060351-448). But REALLY ! I am making my own bracket! It only holds water !

WHAT IS IT ABOUT THE COROLLA BOTTLE THAT HELPS WITH THIS MOD?

If this bottle will do that, who cares about the p/n?

Don't know if the number here is correct, but...
 
I’ve already started the reservoir kit process FWIW...

But first:
The exhaust manifolds are finally back from being Ceramic Coated. I went the same as I did with my supercharged truck because after 6 years they still look fantastic.

These things look like they were dipped in chrome they look so good. Couldn’t be happier. This will keep more of the heat in the exhaust instead of in the engine bay.

D591B0F6-C6D3-405B-A412-FC0A29590EF9.jpeg
E213066A-B940-4708-A0C3-D6FB24652B9B.jpeg
CA30C05B-60BD-4F7B-8A0E-EF694BFFC8DE.jpeg
 
Enough to run a fridge/compressor/etc? Need to do more research but that's what led me down the rabbit hole of the JDM in fender bottle i've seen mentioned but can't find. Wouldn't mind an in QPM one... Also need a QPM.... haha

I have a nice, neatly installed second battery setup and have it so EVERYTHING runs off the main (sears platinum 31M) starting battery. I have ran the fridge for 5 days and it still started. Kinda feel like the 2nd just takes up space now and could have a norco jump box on hand instead. Or relocate it to my Metal Tech sliders...

2026484
 
I’ve had a second battery for over a decade and I too question the necessity. I’m not 100% convinced one way or the other FOR MY NEEDS.
 
I’ve had a second battery for over a decade and I too question the necessity. I’m not 100% convinced one way or the other FOR MY NEEDS.

Yeah, same here and in the same boat. I wouldn't mind reducing some weight to compensate for the turbo stuff and to follow the KISS rule. When I had a '97, it had a single batt with the same electrical load requirements without any issues but I did carry a jump batt thing. I think I might go the same route here as well, just carry a booster thing in the drawer for emergencies. :meh: Maybe change the primary and only batt to a deep cycle + starting battery?

I know that some folks use that space in front of the main battery and house an Odyssey motorcycle battery that's 12vdc and skinny to behave like a jump starter so that's another possibility as well.
 
I love my second battery as a way to isolate all the add-on electrical crap I've added (and plan to add) from the main vehicle electrical system. Maybe not an absolute need, but it satisfies my brain's desire for organization.

If a second battery in the engine bay was a no-go for the turbo, I'd put a battery on the QPM, which I already have. :flipoff2:
 
I love my second battery as a way to isolate all the add-on electrical crap I've added (and plan to add) from the main vehicle electrical system. Maybe not an absolute need, but it satisfies my brain's desire for organization.

If a second battery in the engine bay was a no-go for the turbo, I'd put a battery on the QPM, which I already have. :flipoff2:

Second battery is no prob with turbo 😉
 
@cruiserdan
@scottryana

Realst8 just installed a turbo kit and I noticed he installed a vacuum check valve at the purge side of the canister. Have you two had to do this? Or @cruiserdan , is this something the factory would have done with the SC kits? Seems to me the purge valve and valve in the canister take care of this. I did read up a bit and noticed other factory turbo systems installing a check valve between the manifold and the purge valve...

From what I also understand, Evap monitors have ran fine at SEMA testing and no mention of this needed for emission reasons.
~Paul
 
Does anyone know what the exhaust heat shields are made of? Mine cracked and wont stay on anymore. Would be easy to weld up some washers to repair, but it kinda looks like it might be galvanized or maybe Al?
 
Does anyone know what the exhaust heat shields are made of? Mine cracked and wont stay on anymore. Would be easy to weld up some washers to repair, but it kinda looks like it might be galvanized or maybe Al?


I don't know what the factory finish is. They do attract a magnet.
 
Paul,

I do not run an evap canister on my truck so I can't really give you any first hand experience. But there is a check valve in the canister, the TRD SC doesn't add any additional check valves. A lot of ways to skin a cat I suppose.

@cruiserdan
@scottryana

Realst8 just installed a turbo kit and I noticed he installed a vacuum check valve at the purge side of the canister. Have you two had to do this? Or @cruiserdan , is this something the factory would have done with the SC kits? Seems to me the purge valve and valve in the canister take care of this. I did read up a bit and noticed other factory turbo systems installing a check valve between the manifold and the purge valve...

From what I also understand, Evap monitors have ran fine at SEMA testing and no mention of this needed for emission reasons.
~Paul
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom