Bolt on turbo kit (33 Viewers)

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For me, there's just no way I can pull the trigger on this until it includes a CARB cert. I know it's being worked on and that it is supposed to happen, but it's too spendy to take a risk that I'd never be able to use it if the certification doesn't work out. I hope you'll do another run after you've got the product in the California smog database and stickers ready to put on whether that's six months down the road or a year, my Cruiser isn't getting any more powerful on it's own.
 
Back to important stuff - do the kits include a Wits End Turbo badge? :grinpimp:

I tend to fall in the "wolf in sheep's clothing" crowd. The funny look I'm gonna get as I climb mountain passes faster than the 18wheelers is all I need. Of course, unless another 80 owner happens to be going the same direction, the funny look will be come from me as a s***ty grin followed by the giggles. :rofl:
 
For me, there's just no way I can pull the trigger on this until it includes a CARB cert. I know it's being worked on and that it is supposed to happen, but it's too spendy to take a risk that I'd never be able to use it if the certification doesn't work out. I hope you'll do another run after you've got the product in the California smog database and stickers ready to put on whether that's six months down the road or a year, my Cruiser isn't getting any more powerful on it's own.

You could always move to the United States :meh:
 
I have no experience not preference with any methanol injection company. As long as they don’t sell me chinese made garbage I’ll consider it a win. This pump is made in Colorado so that’s half the battle. Going with a 100ml nozzle and using a new OEM washer tank to store the methanol. It’s all going to be plumbed in but NOT going to be part of the CARB certification.

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Ok not exactly turbo related specifically but its something the Wits’ End history book might find interesting.

OCD is a serious disease. The packaging company I was using (trying to use) broke my heart by being absolutely f’ing useless. So instead of the packaging I wanted, I’m doing the packaging I can pull off given the time I have.

The idea here is simple, just needed a stencil so had it laser etched out of acrylic. But the problem with stencils, as every stencil artist knows, is what’s called the “counter”. The counter is the space between letters that are closed. Think A B D O P Q R. With those letters you can’t just have the “counter” just lay there when you spray paint over it, it’ll move. So what do you do? Well most just ignore the counter so it’s just a filled in space. It’s quick and lazy.

The better stencil works use several stencils overplayed to get the required affect. But there is another way. You can build a stand-off, in z-space that basically holds the “counter” in place. This means you have a stencil that is repeatable without accepting an incomplete look not requiring a separate stencil.

It’s totally OCD dumb but I wanted a specific look.

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I’ve got a couple friends with ‘94 FZJ80’s that are jealous this thing isn’t compatible.
I’m sure it’s been discussed, but I can’t find it in somewhere within 200+ pages here.
Would this kit work in theory with a 7th injector to give correct AFR’s?
Something like this post:

CruiserDan has a ‘94 (turbo’ed I think) so somehow it should be possible.

If it is, your target market would increase & I personally know of 2 buyers already. 😉
 
Joey
I know there was talk of a test pipe to be temporary where the first cat is. Is that going to be part of the kit or available?
Would be awesome to be able to pop that in and not have to weld the joint for those of us where emissions is not going to matter.
 
I’ve got a couple friends with ‘94 FZJ80’s that are jealous this thing isn’t compatible.
I’m sure it’s been discussed, but I can’t find it in somewhere within 200+ pages here.
Would this kit work in theory with a 7th injector to give correct AFR’s?
Something like this post:

CruiserDan has a ‘94 (turbo’ed I think) so somehow it should be possible.

If it is, your target market would increase & I personally know of 2 buyers already. 😉

My work isn’t done 😉
 
Joey
I know there was talk of a test pipe to be temporary where the first cat is. Is that going to be part of the kit or available?
Would be awesome to be able to pop that in and not have to weld the joint for those of us where emissions is not going to matter.

It was said that it would be available separately. You would not be able to have it be part of the kit and be CARB compliant.
 
Joey
I know there was talk of a test pipe to be temporary where the first cat is. Is that going to be part of the kit or available?
Would be awesome to be able to pop that in and not have to weld the joint for those of us where emissions is not going to matter.

I’ll have a solution separately.
 
Is this the correct shift kit?
Link is pulling up wrong one see below...
 
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2019054


This seems to have what we need without the extras?
 
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I want to say somewhere I read the cheaper one is just the correct bit sizes and instructions but more expensive also provides the various ball bearings for blockoff/springs/etc.
Don't specifically recall but its in one of the shift kit threads. @scottryana explained which he used in his thread and why.
 
I want to say somewhere I read the cheaper one is just the correct bit sizes and instructions but more expensive also provides the various ball bearings for blockoff/springs/etc.
Don't specifically recall but its in one of the shift kit threads. @scottryana explained which he used in his thread and why.

I have been trying to filter through and read all the threads on it over the past 7 years, and it seems there is one more drill bit needed in the bigger ($99) kit, for the "truck" setting? Larger kit also has more bits for even firmer shift options?
 
You could probably make do with the $55 kit. It has been years since I did mine so you will have to forgive me if my memory doesn't hold true, but the $100 kit is actually what they call a reprogramming shift kit or a high performance shift kit, which has some functions like higher RPM gear hold, etc that don't apply to our transmissions.

I have been trying to filter through and read all the threads on it over the past 7 years, and it seems there is one more drill bit needed in the bigger ($99) kit, for the "truck" setting? Larger kit also has more bits for even firmer shift options?
 
You could probably make do with the $55 kit. It has been years since I did mine so you will have to forgive me if my memory doesn't hold true, but the $100 kit is actually what they call a reprogramming shift kit or a high performance shift kit, which has some functions like higher RPM gear hold, etc that don't apply to our transmissions.

Thanks. Looking at Lilevo's write up and instructions posted, the "truck setting" would use different bit sizes besides just one in the basic kit I listed.. So lookes like the $99 kit is a definite.

2019224
 

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