Builds BluezClues Build '79 RN37 Pickup (1 Viewer)

[clx16]

My trusty frame's front wheel. Have to save that for the next frame off.

Also found the tc to still be good so no need to swap that. Still putting in new seals and gaskets for the Trans and tc. Gear oil coming out looked good so looking like the seller was honest.

 

[Pacer]

Spun bearings on the 20r and a single panel in the bed that needs replacing. Searching for bed panels and bedskirts is not easy on these old trucks. Fortunately parts for 20r and 22r engines are still pretty available.

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I've got a set of aftermarket steel bed sides for this truck on the shelf if you still need someday.
I think yours look pretty savable.

 

[clx16]

I've got a set of aftermarket steel bed sides for this truck on the shelf if you still need someday.
I think yours look pretty savable.

Well i may have to entertain that option as i am having a really hard time finding finder flairs and i am betting my metal work capabilities are not going to be able to recreate that rear fender skirt. I am going to give it a try, but not holding my breath.

 

[clx16]

Well dropped the tank. Expected to just take it to the scrap yard and buy a new one... now I guess just will have to clean this one up and use it. Pretty sure the pump is fairly "new" also. I know the truck is supposed to have been parked for for a really long time but I have a suspicion this tank has already been replaced. The top inside of the tank didn't have any rust on it for some reason.

 

[pappy]

If the tank does not have a drain plug it's likely an aftermarket tank.

 

[clx16]

If the tank does not have a drain plug it's likely an aftermarket tank.

It does have a drain plug. If it is Toyota, then i find it hard to believe it is the original. I am guessing drain plugs were not common in the aftermarket. I am not complaining, just assumed it was going to have to be replaced all along. Either way I will clean it up and put some fresh paint on it.

 

[clx16]

So nothing exciting to report, Just knocking out things like getting the front hard lines cleaned out as well and painted. The transfer case and transmission have been resealed up, which meant I needed to make progress on the transmission cross member which was stuck on the frame due to one of the captured nuts breaking its spot weld and spinning. I cut it out and using my less than stellar welding skills, got a new nut back inside the frame and welded in to place.
Because the truck previously had a side shift 4 speed and it is getting a top shift 5 speed, the shift holes in the transmission tunnel need to be modified. I need to do more research but i might need to make the tunnel a bit taller also, or maybe lower the cross member a hair...
Gas tank cleaned up well, has an electric fuel pump in it and i am going to run it that way since it seems like it was in like new condition. I am just changing the pickup filter.
Was hoping to clean up the rear portion of the frame by the tank and paint that area that the gas tank would obscure with the hope I wouldn't have to drop the tank again when the bed comes off and i prep and paint the rear portion of the frame. Unfortunately I was picking a lot of grass and pillow material out of the frame and realized it was a rat/mouse nest in the frame. The wire wheel took what looked like a completely solid frame and showed how the Urine somehow became radicalized and ate through the inside portion of the frame. I know that the inner thinner metal isn't nearly as important as the outer thicker C channel, but it has to get fixed. Just didn't have the right gauge sheet metal to cut and repair that portion. So in order to keep my space at a maximum while sitting under there, the tank didn't get put back in or the new soft fuel lines put in, nor did the transmission and transfer case get installed. I got all the fuel hard lines installed and the rear brake hard line is installed.
I rebuilt the LSPV as it is an original ASCO branded one and just used a seal and some stuff from an LSPV I took off of a land cruiser. Got it and the bracket cleaned up and painted.
Installed the new parking brake cables, so now when I role this bad boy out garage, I can hopefully stop it from taking off down the driveway. I've had a moment or two previously of doubt...

So Big thanks to @dohcdelsol93 for his help and selfless research to help me get my brake booster and mc stuff figured out. Since I am going up a size in calipers up front, the master cylinder had to get bigger so he sold me one for basically the cost of shipping. Now I need to figure out the booster situation as a 94 booster is too large and interferes with the clutch MC. Turns out I need to either make an adapter like this one Dual Diaphragm Brake Booster In A First Gen - https://board.marlincrawler.com/index.php?topic=96435.0 or I need to get another booster that is even harder to find that is a dual diaphragm or just another more narrow one like the 1 ton from a 87 pickup. Pretty expensive new and hard to find used, so I might be making the adapter. Really should have done my homework, but got lazy and put in an order without checking first.

 

[clx16]

So we've all made questionable decisions and this is not going to be my first or last, hopefully. Not sure I will go this direction. But test fitting and thinking I won't have room for steering with this one and need to go back to looking for a dual diaphragm which is more narrow from a toyota dually

 

[clx16]

Got the trans hung and hoping that it doesn't need to come up a bunch when the bell housing is on the engine AZ I don't know if my tunnel is tall enough for the top shifter. Also trying to find a suitable gasket material for the steering to firewall bracket and I think this rubber mat is just going to hold water and cause rust..

 

[clx16]

Spent some time today getting the engine ready. The rebuild I purchased was missing a lot of things, so I am glad I had two other engines to pull things. Also the rebuilder used some much shorter bolts on the timing cover than I need if I want to have brackets attached like the A/C bracket. I looked in all of my FSMs 79, 83, 85 and a haynes manual and was having problems finding all of the torque specs. Found this video by 6th Gear Garage @6th Gear that was very helpful. Toyota 22R and 22RE Timing Cover, Oil pump & Water Pump Bolt Size Diagram - http://6thgeargarage.net/toyota-22r-and-22re-timing-cover-oil-pump-water-pump-bolt-size-diagram/

For the Rear main seal, I had a pretty noticeable groove from the previous rear main seal and I really don't care to sleeve it. I did some measuring and found that if you take in to account the seal retainer bracket gasket is .42 mm and where the base of the seal needs to sit when fully seated along with the fact that the groove in the crank is 3.22mm from where the back of the seal should stop... well in short I found a seal that has a sealing ridge 3.5mm before the wear groove that is already there. Polished up the crank with 1500 grit and threw some moli grease on it to slide it all together. Wasn't happy to have to fight so much to get the old pilot bearing out, yeah the rebuilder didn't bother pulling it out and it was locked up solid. Put the back plate on and now I need to find a place to resurface the flywheel. I was aggravated to find my "Japanese" clutch kit seemed to come with a Chinese pilot bearing... I had a koyo in my stash and put that in. Exedy Isn't japanese anymore if it ever was before as an FYI.

 

[clx16]

Made a little bit of progress. I was inspired by the early days of @Landbender before he had a lift and got the engine in and attached to the transmission. Had to clean up to cone on the shaft as it would not slide in to the pilot bearing. But smoothed it out and got everything to effortlessly slip in.

 

[Landbender]

Made a little bit of progress. I was inspired by the early days of @Landbender before he had a lift and got the engine in and attached to the transmission. Had to clean up to cone on the shaft as it would not slide in to the pilot bearing. But smoothed it out and got everything to effortlessly slip in.

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Looks about as sketchy too

 

[clx16]

Very slow progress. But starting to bolt things on to the engine. Need to stop here and finish resealing up the steering gear box and put that in so I don't have to play tetris getting it in later.

 

[clx16]

18 hour days at work for a few weeks in a row have slowed me down a good bit. Spent some time resealing the power steering gearbox. Pretty confident that someone was in there before me as one of the seals was put in backwards. Wasn't to bad of a job and seemed to be in pretty good shape inside. I tried ordering a new rag joint from rockauto but it must be for the 2wd trucks since it wasn't like mine. Also I couldn't just rob the rubber out of it by the way they had it attached over in China. At least on the original one you could just remove the rubber and replace. Going to have to do some more searching as I really don't want to put that one back in there

 

[clx16]

So I have had some trouble finding a replacement Rag joint, first one from the jungle store was wrong size and the one from rockauto wasn't even close, so the second one from the jungle store was this one "1979-98 Hilux 4Runner Truck Pickup RN30 RN50 RN55 LN50 LN55 YN50 YN56 LN80 LN85 RN85" that has a part number i cannot verify anywhere of 45231-22010 and says RN-25 on the box. It is the right size so wanted to make sure to post that up in the even that others will know what to search for in order to find a replacement for theirs.

 

[WoodsTruck]

Are they the same for manual steering as well as power steering?

 

[clx16]

Good question. Looking at Partsouq I wasn't able to see a differentiation. I do get the impression from the discontinued part number 4523035030 that something changed for 81 and beyond. Maybe that is why it was so hard for me to find one. I also don't know if what was on the box for this part is accurate as the part number it lists I can't find any place. Mine is power steering for clarity but I am thinking it doesn't really matter as much as the 79 and 80 years which now seems more special I guess. My old rag joint was 3 inches in diameter and 2 1/4" from bolt hole center to bolt hole center I believe. of course finding that information in a description of a website seemed impossible. Since the rubber disk is the only thing that needs replaced, one would think you could just find another rag joint that isn't held together with rivets to get what you need and move your parts over. As you know it just is a mess finding the actual measurements and most of the parts guys at the counter don't want to go walk back and eyeball anything, they want a part number or they can't be bothered.

TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC DIESEL, MANUAL , 5-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC DIESEL, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SR-5,GLX	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED STANDARD	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, MANUAL , 4-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, MANUAL , 4-SPEED STANDARD	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2200CC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SR-5,GLX	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED SR-5,GLX	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, AUTOMATIC 4-SPEED STANDARD	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, AUTOMATIC 3-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, MANUAL , 4-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, MANUAL , 4-SPEED STANDARD	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED DELUXE	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED SR-5,GLX	1979, 1980
TOYOTA PICKUP 2400CC, MANUAL , 5-SPEED STANDARD	1979, 1980

 

[WoodsTruck]

The neighbors truck currently has manual steering, but he is Jones'ing on a lift and bigger tires which will require regearing. I think PS will be in order before too long.

 

[clx16]

Oh I think you are right about that.

 

[clx16]

Like new and ready to go in.