Without digging out my FSM's, where are the 2 x 30a breakers located? Are OEM's the only route for replacements?
Blower/Heater circuit breaker tripping (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter wngrog
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Silver round thingy in the fuse box.
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- Canton, Mississippi
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Thanks Nolan. They are located up under the dash I assume, by the circuit breaker?
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,823
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
- Thread starter
- #45
IN the fuse box under the dash
Are there 2 breakers or one? My fuse box only has one.
g-man
SILVER Star
I know this is an old thread but to answer the last post..The top right position in the fuse box is where the 30a heater CB is found. The space under it I believe is a breaker position for power doors locks (fj62) Mine being a 60 has no breaker in this position. Also I am pretty sure that if the compressor is the problem that the 10 amp a/c fuse would blow before the 30a c/b would trip. Seems to me that the amperage has to be added together ..in other words if the compressor amp plus the blower motor amp were more than 30a then the c/b would trip. I am having this issue since I replaced my compressor. I can keep my fan on the 1st or 2nd position with the a/c on without problems but higher than that and the 30a c/b trips. Without the a/c on I can run my fan on high w/out the breaker tripping. I replaced my CB with a new one without that helping. I suspect the blower motor but will have to bite the bullet and buy a DC amp multi-meter to find the problem. Unfortunately most multi-meters only test to 10a d/c either fused or unfused. The higher DC amp multi meters are running upward of 60.00 U.S.
I replaced my blower motor with a new one from Napa... Still trips the circuit breaker on speeds 3&4. It seems to put out more volume of air on the 1&2nd speeds though. I also replaced one of the 30 amp-fuses (or breaker) and that didn't help either. I'm really at a loss. Not having the higher speeds with AC really sucks. My compressor is a brand new Denso unit bought from coolstream in 2013.
I completely required my blower motor power. Took the stock wiring harnesses out of the equation. Ran new 12AWG wire going from a fuse box near the batt in the engine compartment. Used a 30A fuse.
Holy Cow the fan has so much more power now. Hi speed is now like a helicopter blast (well not quite). The stock skinny wires in the wiring harness create sooooo much resistance powering the fan. I think my #3 setting might be blowing the same amount of air as my old max setting.
Holy Cow the fan has so much more power now. Hi speed is now like a helicopter blast (well not quite). The stock skinny wires in the wiring harness create sooooo much resistance powering the fan. I think my #3 setting might be blowing the same amount of air as my old max setting.
Good idea!
Where did you tie in the 12 ga. wire? At the motor? Can you post a For-Dummies tutorial, with a pic or two?
It was one of those "figure it out as you're wiring" projects. I remember scratching my head for a while trying to figure out how it worked and how I was going to do it. It's basic electrical wiring, but you've got to figure out how the slider switch on the dash works, what terminal does what, how the resistor pack in the air duct is wired, and how to wire a multi switched circuit. For the life of me, I couldn't explain exactly how I did it without providing information that had errors. I remember taking notes and drawing a few diagram sketches of how I was maybe going to do it based on my tests of the slider switch terminals before actually wiring it. I tested it out thoroughly before committing to wiring it.
Gotcha. I was wondering if it was upstream of the blower resistor. Figured it had to be. Thanks!
g-man
SILVER Star
I also recently re-wired the fan motor. Unplugged the wires at the side of the blower motor. Ran a 12g wire from battery through the passenger side firewall. Have to reach up under dash to grab it as comes thru the boot. Then crimped a male bladed terminal connector on it and pushed in the plug on the side of the motor. It goes in the hole closest to the firewall. For the negative side going from blower to the blower switch I used a 6" wire and put male bladed terminal connectors on both ends and plugged it up in-between the motor and the stock plug/wires that I had just unplugged from the side of the blower motor.
The only mod I had to make was to put an inline toggle switch on the positive wire and ran to the dash where I used one of the switch blanks then to the blower.
The reason I had to to this was because the fan motor still continued to run on low even though the dash fan switch was off.
This by-passes the breaker and fuse box. I tested my positive wire coming from my blower at almost 14 amps. Not sure what the blower motor is supposed to draw but based on other write ups I assumed the motor was drawing too much amps and kicking the breaker.
I guess I need to put a 15 amp inline fuse next or break down and buy a new fan motor.
The only mod I had to make was to put an inline toggle switch on the positive wire and ran to the dash where I used one of the switch blanks then to the blower.
The reason I had to to this was because the fan motor still continued to run on low even though the dash fan switch was off.
This by-passes the breaker and fuse box. I tested my positive wire coming from my blower at almost 14 amps. Not sure what the blower motor is supposed to draw but based on other write ups I assumed the motor was drawing too much amps and kicking the breaker.
I guess I need to put a 15 amp inline fuse next or break down and buy a new fan motor.
The start up torque from the fan motor can blow a 20A fuse. I put a 30A in my rewired fan circuit.
A properly working fan motor draws:
Lo- 3.3A
Med- 5A
Med Hi- 7A
Max- 10A
A properly working fan motor draws:
Lo- 3.3A
Med- 5A
Med Hi- 7A
Max- 10A
Just so you guys know the fan and other accessories use a common ground junction right behind the gauge cluster. I've had to repair this junction on about half of the 60's that come into the shop. In the junction there is a group of blue wire which are usually just fine. Then on the other end of the connector is all the white/black stripe wires. This is where it melts. The connector is orange I believe. I find the main ground wire and add another to it from the left ground under the dash then tie all the other wires using crimp-n-seal connectors. It fixes a whole host of other odd things like lights and underdash buzzing sounds.
Is this the Junction you're talking about @Trollhole
@beno any idea if that junction is still available? (or a Toyota part that would work?)
(Borrowed from OS):
@beno any idea if that junction is still available? (or a Toyota part that would work?)
(Borrowed from OS):
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Nope.
It's this one. Behind the gauges.
The black/white common gounding location for all those (burnt)i wires is some wires with a ring terminal bolted up under the dash on the driver's side A pillar.
Head on floor looking up with a flashlight, you can just see it up there.
It's this one. Behind the gauges.
The black/white common gounding location for all those (burnt)i wires is some wires with a ring terminal bolted up under the dash on the driver's side A pillar.
Head on floor looking up with a flashlight, you can just see it up there.
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Ah, ok. Need to check that as I've got some funky Alt issues. Thanks!
red66toy
Supporting Vendor
Hey Everyone, I am having this issue as well lately only when the AC is on and the fan is on high.....the breaker trips after a couple minutes.
Things to know:
AC compressor is new and charge is correct
blower circuit breaker is new
Blower motor is a nos unit and draws: Low= 3.27A, Med=4.65A, Med Hi= 6.37A, Hi=8.39A
Ground junctions were not burnt behind the gauges (but I didn't take them apart to inspect closely) and both ground points on the A-pillars have been cleaned and extra ground wires run to the battery.
Resistor is a new (made in japan) unit
Kind of at a loss right now. Any ideas on what to check next? Does the AC clutch draw any significant amps?
Things to know:
AC compressor is new and charge is correct
blower circuit breaker is new
Blower motor is a nos unit and draws: Low= 3.27A, Med=4.65A, Med Hi= 6.37A, Hi=8.39A
Ground junctions were not burnt behind the gauges (but I didn't take them apart to inspect closely) and both ground points on the A-pillars have been cleaned and extra ground wires run to the battery.
Resistor is a new (made in japan) unit
Kind of at a loss right now. Any ideas on what to check next? Does the AC clutch draw any significant amps?
