Builds BJ42 found in derelict barn
- Thread starter Past it
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
P.S. The bezel should be white. 
[/QUOTE]
And the rims as well. Good work Past it
[/QUOTE]And the rims as well. Good work Past it
Michael B
SILVER Star
I used an FJ60 choke cable to shut down my 2H. It required a rotating cam like mechanism to get the correct action at the fuel pump lever.
jim land
SILVER Star
it is a popular modif to delete the edic and convert it to manual shut off , use the search fonction and or look on google
if i ever get trouble with my edic , it will be full manual , i already have a ''Wilson switch''
if i ever get trouble with my edic , it will be full manual , i already have a ''Wilson switch''
Subscribed
Have you got the EDIC work yet?
Here is 10 pages about the EDIC explained (Finnish language, but few word English too), pages 43-53: https://www.slck.net/galleria/main....2_GALLERYSID=054e112cb6f6850e26e8d52e1a96c1f3
- Thread starter
- #127
Have you got the EDIC work yet?
Here is 10 pages about the EDIC explained (Finnish language, but few word English too), pages 43-53: https://www.slck.net/galleria/main....2_GALLERYSID=054e112cb6f6850e26e8d52e1a96c1f3
- Thread starter
- #128
Hi Matti, Thanks for your interest. I thought I had cured my switching off problem when I resoldered some broken connections in the EDIC box. It worked for a while then returned to not switching off. I intend to open the box again and study the connections with a magnifying glass. Your workshop drawings are useful but following the wiring diagram is beyond me and needs some explanation. One query I have is , does the S, D, OI, inputs to the EDIC motor stand for Start, Drive, OI for Off., and if so, does this mean the motor only moves to one of these 3 positions. In other words when in the drive position the connecting rod does not move until switch off. Any ideas? Although difficult, I may be able to monitor the OI terminal from the EDIC box and see if it gives out 24 volts when ignition is switched off.
John in Utah
SILVER Star
OI = over inject (start), D = drive, S = stop.
It would be a good idea to check the voltage at the terminals first so you know everything between the EDIC and the key is good. My PO rigged the original 2F choke cable to the fuel pump linkage the EDIC normally connects to, so at rest it is in "D" and I can pull it manually to "S".
My EDIC just sits limp, still bolted to the engine. Let me know if any parts of it would be useful to you.
It would be a good idea to check the voltage at the terminals first so you know everything between the EDIC and the key is good. My PO rigged the original 2F choke cable to the fuel pump linkage the EDIC normally connects to, so at rest it is in "D" and I can pull it manually to "S".
My EDIC just sits limp, still bolted to the engine. Let me know if any parts of it would be useful to you.
- Thread starter
- #130
Hi John, Thanks for the OI, D, S explanation. I had it the wrong way round. I am learning more about the EDIC every day so I will not throw it in the dustbin just yet , although knowing a mechanical fix is possible is a comfort. Seeing Matti's EDIC gearbox pictures makes me realise the 3 positions ( OI, D, S ) must be determined simply by 3 positions only of the EDIC motor. Am I right?
- Thread starter
- #131
Hi John, Having worked most of my life in electronics , I find the mental challenge of a simple EDIC should not defeat me. Sadly, it has. I opened up the box and the previous owner had fitted a non standard relay , bridging terminals and using flying leads. A bit of a mess , but it worked, occasionally. If you have the relay, or even the whole box, I would be eternally grateful. Obviously, I will refund expenses. I also have a sneaking suspicion that all my EDIC problems may simply be the plug and socket connector. Wriggling the plug sometimes makes it work , sometimes not. That's old electrics for you. However, modern car electrics are much more disastrous and eye wateringly more expensive. Best regards, Maurice.
- Thread starter
- #132
EDIC problem solved. Dismant
Finally fixed the EDIC problem.
Dismantlled the EDIC box plug and socket, cleaned all contacts, works perfectly at last.
Next problem, no guages functioning. Fuel guage dial cured by cleaning rust from sensor terminals and oil pressure guage by renewing terminal connector at sensor. Just water temperature and ammeter to go. Anyone know which sensor is relevant to the temperature guage and what is the other one? Also what is the sensor to the left of the domed sensor? Finally any clues as to where the cable run or plugs and sockets are for the ammeter connections?
Finally fixed the EDIC problem.
Dismantlled the EDIC box plug and socket, cleaned all contacts, works perfectly at last.
Next problem, no guages functioning. Fuel guage dial cured by cleaning rust from sensor terminals and oil pressure guage by renewing terminal connector at sensor. Just water temperature and ammeter to go. Anyone know which sensor is relevant to the temperature guage and what is the other one? Also what is the sensor to the left of the domed sensor? Finally any clues as to where the cable run or plugs and sockets are for the ammeter connections?
- Thread starter
- #134
Sadly, not much more progress except she passed the dreaded British MOT (annual vehicle test) with flying colours. With only having driven just the 5 miles to the MOT garage in the last 7 years, I was ecstatic. Hurtling home at 60 miles per hour, with still no windscreen, I began to appreciate this cars appeal.The suspension is atrocious, the speed snail like, and the steering abominable. But oh! what fun. Having purchased a BESTOP soft top seemingly years ago it was time to cover up for the winter. For anyone considering one of these lids, don't be put off by the critical measurement of 81" inches from front to rear. Mine was 83". By sliding the bottom fixing above the wheel arch forward about 4" and drilling several adjusting holes lower on the vertical tube, it shifted the upper horizontal bar tightly against the top canvas and straightened out the door horizontal strut. I mean to fix wing nuts to the vertical tube fixings.Consequently only 4 wing nuts to remove canvas and frame.
cruiserkev
3 decades in the same FJ40
One of the best modifications I did to my bestop was to drill out this rivet and replace it with a skinny bolt and wing nut. The entire top and bows come off in less than 5 minutes now leaving only the small bracket attached to the tub. Your Cruiser is looking great, enjoy it! 
- Thread starter
- #136
Great idea Kev. That saves undoing the bracket bolts. I'll probably do that later after in anticipation of our English summer. Good luck.
- Thread starter
- #137
With the sad demise of my do everything desktop computer, a decision was required whether to buy another, or spend more on the bj42. Absolutely no problem ........ Hence no reports or pictures for months. With withdrawel systems too much to bear , I have to continue with my limited iPad. From the very beginning , both my ignition warning light and the glow plug light remained on all the time, but not knowing there significance, I ignored them until time allowed an investigation. It proved both stupid and expensive. One day she just died on me. That was the day I started to learn how diesels worked. It was on removing the glow plugs that all was revealed. About 12mm was missing from one of the plugs. I could feel resistance on inserting a complete plug into the hole, so I pressed a little harder. In it went. There was only one explanation. The end of the glow plug was now in the cylinder. The last time I removed a cylinder head was 65 years ago, but what the hell, they are all the same. So off it came!
Are you 85 years old? 
good time to replace the precups.
Great looking truck, BTW!
