Try this web site for your new old stock parts .
Partsouq
you can get anything on their strait out of Japan.
Partsouq
you can get anything on their strait out of Japan.
Builds BJ42 found in derelict barn
- Thread starter Past it
- Start date
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partsouq.com
I can recommend too, just ordered an OEM parking brake cable for BJ42 $65.58 + some other stuff. Fast shipping with FedEx.
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John in Utah
SILVER Star
Sounds like a Superglow system. The relays are just electrical switches, if there is chattering as you describe that sounds like the relay is not making a solid connection - I’d check voltage at the glow timer while the “chattering” is happening. Pins 1 and 5 I believe.
Sorry, I’ve never actually had eyes on this system I’m just working off the diagram. @lostmarbles can probably speak to this much better than I can.
A Wilson switch is just slang for a momentary switch wired to a relay that turns the glow plugs on or off. Basically a button in the cabin that activates the plugs when and for as long as you push it. Easy to install and simple.
- Thread starter
- #105
Thanks John, You're right about the glow plug timer. I homed in on that device, as a year ago I suspected it could be damaged in the cars journey down the pyrenees. I had found a few lands ( PCB copper strips ) cracked and had to bi-pass the cracks by soldering solid wires across them. I took the can off the timer, and with a watchmakers eyeglass found two more cracks that I had missed. A 5 minute fix and the timer was back in the BJ. Bingo! No relay chatter . Car started perfectly. As usual, however she won't stop. I tried moving the EDIC rod to stop but nothing happens. My only recourse is to risk getting my arm sucked into the air inlet by jamming my hand over the hole. It's like anticipating an electric shock. You know it won't kill you but it's nerve racking all the same. Any tips anyone?
John in Utah
SILVER Star
Are you moving the EDIC arm toward the front of the truck? Is the lever on the fuel pump the arm attaches to broken in any way? That lever is connected right to the fuel rack so if moving it does nothing something is broke.
If the engine is still in the car you can stall it to turn it off.
If the engine is still in the car you can stall it to turn it off.
- Thread starter
- #107
Another hurdle overcome ! I began to suspect the problem of not being able to switch the engine off was due to a fault in the EDIC motor fuel supply relay. The problem was I couldn't find it. I had almost given up when I noticed one of my identifying labels hanging over a gap in the fibre glass wall of the passenger footwell. In my quest to tidy away all hanging cables ( and relays ), I had secreted the relay away behind a panel intending to post a label on the footwell wall later. Tip! Don't rely on memory . With the relay exposed I clipped on an earth cable just in case. Partial success. The EDIC rod pivoting arm could now be moved manually to stop, but it still would not turn off with the ignition key. At this point I took time off to tidy up earth connections to all relays connected to the fibre glass body. Don't ask for an explanation, but switching the engine on and off now, all works perfectly. I think I am beginning to enjoy this game.
- Thread starter
- #108
I knew I would regret that last remark. Am now bogged down with turn signal/ hazard problem. Switching steering column lever to left or right does absolutely nothing. Switching to hazard on dashboard,flashes lights up on both front wing lights, green dashboard indicators, and red dashboard warning light but no lights to rear. Following what I think is the circuit diagram for my 1983 bj42, 2 things. The LH green/blue output from the turn signal switch leading across to the trailer socket changeover sw. should join the downlead green/blue from the hazard switch otherwise no connection to LH rear lamp. Secondly, when using the steering column turn lever, why does the green/blue lead from the flasher relay to the column lever switch also feed the hazard switch? Surely this would put both R and L rear lights on. What am I missing? Lost marbles I need you.
Michael B
SILVER Star
Ground the indicators individually and see how many of your issues are resolved. I had a similar situation with my front turn signals after new paint and bedliner was applied to the bottom side of my fenders.
- Thread starter
- #110
Good tip, especially as mine's an all fibre glass body. However, a practical approach has proved more beneficial than studying over a dodgy wiring diagram. As my flasher unit did not seem to feel like flashing, I deduced not enough current was being drawn to activate it seeing as the rear lights were not working. To prove the point I removed a rear light cluster and connected the turn bulb directly to the front indicator lamp. Geronimo! Flasher flashed and all lights functioning also hazard switch. All I need to do now is find a 2 pin connector not connected to the rear then reassemble all the bits I had disconnected behind the dashboard.
- Thread starter
- #111
And I thought car wiring was easy! After spending many hours testing everything possible, installing earth wires everywhere, blowing 2 fuses and one flasher relay, pulling out all the wiring to the rear , and lots of hair which I can ill afford, I made the breakthrough. Someone had wired up a defunct trailer socket with non standard coloured wire, then hidden all in the sleeving. The most significant, however, was the correct colour wires on my new rear light clusters went to the wrong pins in the the wiring loom plug. Simply removing all the pins and repositionng them correctly has worked wonders. Now it should be all downhill.
jim land
SILVER Star
x2 we need pics of that fresh paint
Very great thread. Enjoying reading it. I painted mine Rustic Green, I think you will be happy you selected a factory colour.
You can keep it factory looking while also having a manuel Wilson switch for your glow plugs. That’s what we did. We got an oem glow momentary toggle switch (I believe from a bj40/42??) and hooked our Wilson switch wires into it. Works great with the manual control of it and looks good to. Just an option that may work for you if you have those types of switches on your dash.
She deserves to be saved. Looking forward to see how she gets a new lease on life
- Thread starter
- #118
Thanks guys. Thats a really neat (b) glow plug job. I've blown it. I was keeping the paint job until last. Well spotted. Yes, it is rustic green. I can't say I am really delighted but maybe when I give it a bit of glitz she should look presentable.
SUBSCRIBED !
Great Work ......
Great Work ......
- Thread starter
- #120
Finishing touches taking much longer than expected so thought I'd show the paint job. Not too thrilled with the Rustic green but hey, it's practical. Having patted myself on the back for solving the not switching off problem by repairing the EDIC relay circuitry, the old bus has decided she'd rather keep going after all. I think she likes the freedom after years of hiding in the barn. Before I explore the innards of the EDIC circuitry again , has anyone tried fitting a mechanical cure ie. some kind of foot pedal push rod to operate the EDIC motor linkeage?
