Better 70-Series brakes? (1 Viewer)

[Godwin]

Your 16” wheels should clear the Tundra brakes. I believe @Godwin runs that setup on his 60.

I would skip a proportion valve on a heavy Troopy unless you have already experienced your rear brakes locking up. I would not expect that with such a long wheelbase and heavy GVW

happy to supply an 80 booster, and I sell a custom clevis to install it into your 70.

Yep, 13WL Tundra calipers (2000-2006 I think is the year range). No interference with OEM 16" 70 series wheels and no need for spacers. Photos and info toward the end of this thread 80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rear-axle-with-front-axle-tundra-brake-mod.1170432/

80 series booster is a great addition to the brake system.

 

[TreadingLight]

I would skip a proportion valve on a heavy Troopy unless you have already experienced your rear brakes locking up. I would not expect that with such a long wheelbase and heavy GVW

All I can say is I can lock them all up on the bypass hose but i'll get someone to watch and see if the rears might be locking up too soon.

happy to supply an 80 booster, and I sell a custom clevis to install it into your 70.

Thanks for that - I'll reach out when I get stateside.

Yep, 13WL Tundra calipers (2000-2006 I think is the year range). No interference with OEM 16" 70 series wheels and no need for spacers. Photos and info toward the end of this thread 80 series rear axle with front axle Tundra brake mod - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/80-series-rear-axle-with-front-axle-tundra-brake-mod.1170432/

Well damn I think this sounds like a no brainer.

In other news I think my overheated caliper is OK enough to get me home. Turns out it was spontaneously removing itself after too many dirt miles. I got a friend here to chop a bolt down to the right size and I am now reassembled and its working good enough for now. Rotor is chewed up but these are all good excuses to upgrade.

 

[meloh]

What size tires are you running and how much additional added weight (bumpers, roof rack, fridge etc) do you have over stock?
Are you sure that ALL the components in your existing stock brake system is completely baselined and working properly, and not of excessive age? These are questions you should know the answer to before considering a brake upgrade

I have 285/75/16 tires, 16" wheels (I was wrong about the 17s), winch, arb bumper, drawers in the back and 40L fridge is usually my additional added weight.
Here's what I've checked so far for the brake system:
- My brake pads still look fine, not too worn down yet and look pretty even
- The rotors are slightly discolored purple (not sure when this was replaced by previous owner, just got the car one year ago)
- Haven't flushed my brake fluid which I need to do

Is there anything else I should be checking? I'm pretty new to working on cars so still learning, thanks in advance.

 

[Squash]

One option to consider is changing the swivel hub to the 79 series. This system uses the 80 series caliper and bigger brake pads.
I have these parts and will one day swap out my HZJ75 hubs for 79 hubs. This will then make everything streamlined with my two 80 series units. Lessening the number of parts.

 

[cruisermatt]

One option to consider is changing the swivel hub to the 79 series. This system uses the 80 series caliper and bigger brake pads.
I have these parts and will one day swap out my HZJ75 hubs for 79 hubs. This will then make everything streamlined with my two 80 series units. Lessening the number of parts.

Do you mean swapping the entire knuckle assembly? If so, why wouldn’t you use 80 hubs and rotors, so 6-lug wheels could stay.
That is a good idea to someone like me but really how many members of this forum do you actually think are going to cut and weld their knuckle balls off their axle and weld a new one in on their 70 series? Unless you mean running the 80/79 brakes on the older style wheel hub and knuckle. I did that years ago on my FJ62, it didnt work out at all. It could have with some custom hubs but I just see zero point.. it’s not like Tundra or 3rd Gen 4runner brakes are difficult to come by

 

[TreadingLight]

Is there anything else I should be checking? I'm pretty new to working on cars so still learning, thanks in advance.

The LSPV is a common failure point if your rig is older / has high miles. Symptoms are poor braking distance as a bad LSPV doesn't distribute pressure front and rear so one circuit ends up doing all the work. If your brake pedal feels inconsistently hard/soft that indicates the booster. If consistently soft that would be air in the lines. Possibly a leaky master cylinder. It kinda depends on the problem you're looking to solve.

@Godwin , I was reading your thread in tundra brakes. On a 1990 70 series (leaf springs and rear drums) would I need to source IFS 4runner hubs? You mentioned no spacers so I guess I wouldn't need the FROR kit.

 

[cruisermatt]

@Godwin , I was reading your thread in tundra brakes. On a 1990 70 series (leaf springs and rear drums) would I need to source IFS 4runner hubs? You mentioned no spacers so I guess I wouldn't need the FROR kit.

Yes. You would along with the caliper brackets. You can get the hubs and brackets from FROR or me (I make the brackets out of thicker material and include OEM hardware for both the brackets and wheel hubs with my kit)

 

[TreadingLight]

I see. I ended up having to replace my 4runner caliper to get home. I think my next step is the 80 booster to go along with my 80 master. I'll reach out to you on that. Then I think I'lll have a buddy with a brake lathe turn my rotor while I decide on next steps.

If I can stop safely on unmodified parts I'll stick with what I've got. If not I'll buy the parts for the upgrade from you.

Thanks again for the advice. This all makes sense now.

 

[Godwin]

@TreadingLight to reiterate what Matt said, you need the FROR brackets or Matt's kit and IFS 4Runner hubs. The hubs have to be turned down slightly for the rotor to fit. over them.

When I did the swap only the FROR brackets were available and I thought they were too thin for caliper bolt threading, so I had nuts welded on. Matt has designed his so that tweaking the FROR brackets is unneeded. Buy from @cruisermatt as he's developed a kit, he's active here and can answer questions, and I'm assuming he has experience with what he sells.

With the setup I'm running no spacers are needed.

 

[TreadingLight]

That makes sense and I'm all onboard with buying from a Matt. He's been a great help here and in the past.

The booster I may buy myself as I get a parts discount on OEM Toyota bits at work. Currently trying to figure out which OEM 80 booster is the best fit for a RHD 70.

And I think I have one more part to track down. What do folks use for a check valve? I need a new vacuum line for the booster as mine is cracked and repaired with tape plus I am pretty sure it wouldn't reach the port on an 80 booster.

 

[cruisermatt]

the IFS hubs WILL gain you 1.5” ish of track width per side.
We do 1” wheel spacers in the rear axle to match on our installs here.

 

[TreadingLight]

Good to know. Longer studs as well?

 

[Squash]

Do you mean swapping the entire knuckle assembly? If so, why wouldn’t you use 80 hubs and rotors, so 6-lug wheels could stay.
That is a good idea to someone like me but really how many members of this forum do you actually think are going to cut and weld their knuckle balls off their axle and weld a new one in on their 70 series? Unless you mean running the 80/79 brakes on the older style wheel hub and knuckle. I did that years ago on my FJ62, it didnt work out at all. It could have with some custom hubs but I just see zero point.. it’s not like Tundra or 3rd Gen 4runner brakes are difficult to come by

Haven't done it yet but pretty certain it's a swap. Pull off the old swivel hubs, install the 79 swivel hubs. The trunion bearing are identical.
Who said anything about cutting and welding.
I have the parts laying around, but am depleting my 75 series parts beforehand.
Lots of interchangeable parts between the varying series of Cruiser.

 

[SNLC]

Get rid of the LSPV and install a brake proportioning valve.

Install a PDI booster.

PDI HZJ75/HJ75 75 Series Brake Booster

Upgrade braking performance with PDI brake boosters. Get a 50% booster ratio increase. ADR tested and surpassed standards. Ideal for increased weight.

www.performancedieselintercoolers.com.au

Cheers

 

[cruisermatt]

Haven't done it yet but pretty certain it's a swap. Pull off the old swivel hubs, install the 79 swivel hubs. The trunion bearing are identical.
Who said anything about cutting and welding.
I have the parts laying around, but am depleting my 75 series parts beforehand.
Lots of interchangeable parts between the varying series of Cruiser.

you might want to refrain from posting suggestions that you haven’t actually done them. Mock it up and you will see that the 80/79 and 60/75 knuckles and knuckle balls are completely different.

I said cutting and welding, I meant it. You would need to transfer the entire knuckle assembly, including ball to the older axle housing as well as get custom inner axle shafts made to use the later birfields.

 

[Godwin]

That makes sense and I'm all onboard with buying from a Matt. He's been a great help here and in the past.

The booster I may buy myself as I get a parts discount on OEM Toyota bits at work. Currently trying to figure out which OEM 80 booster is the best fit for a RHD 70.

And I think I have one more part to track down. What do folks use for a check valve? I need a new vacuum line for the booster as mine is cracked and repaired with tape plus I am pretty sure it wouldn't reach the port on an 80 booster.

I think the 80 series booster has a check valve built in. I installed an OEM 80 series booster and do not have an in-line check valve and the booster holds vacuum.

 

[Squash]

you might want to refrain from posting suggestions that you haven’t actually done them. Mock it up and you will see that the 80/79 and 60/75 knuckles and knuckle balls are completely different.

I said cutting and welding, I meant it. You would need to transfer the entire knuckle assembly, including ball to the older axle housing as well as get custom inner axle shafts made to use the later birfields.

Now!
Birfield's are simple.
79's only require a light clean up of the outer splines outboard of the snap ring, the lower splines are identical, and voilà they are usable on a 75 or 80 series. Just use the thicker later drive flanges.

 

[TreadingLight]

Install a PDI booster.

Dangit you just had to go and reignite this debate in my mind. I have been going back and forth between 80 booster + 80 master vs aftermarket 75 booster + 75 master.

I'd sort of rather have a 75 booster with correct orientation of ports for a RHD rather than an upside down 80 booster. But maybe I'm splitting hairs.

 

[TreadingLight]

Birfield's are simple.

Now we're talking birfs and I'm confused. Why the heck would I want to try and use 80 knuckles and birfs on a 75 axle housing, if that were even possible (which I'm pretty sure is not).

 

[cruisermatt]

Dangit you just had to go and reignite this debate in my mind. I have been going back and forth between 80 booster + 80 master vs aftermarket 75 booster + 75 master.

I'd sort of rather have a 75 booster with correct orientation of ports for a RHD rather than an upside down 80 booster. But maybe I'm splitting hairs.

You can’t put the booster in upside down. The bolt pattern is not symmetrical.