Best way to clean and sort used bolts.

[MaK92 4RnR]

I have 2-3 paint buckets designated for cleaning manual hubs and other misc. hardware. I just use 87 octane gasoline, fill to cover everything inside the bucket, come back a day or two later and recover everything with either a magnet or long pliers. Typically comes clean after a wipe down.

 

[stevebradford]

I have used molasses.

Molasses rust removal, anybody tried this?

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[mano002]

When I moved into my new house I spent many evenings with a beer in one hand and sorting hardware with the other. Eventually you get good at eyeballing sizes. It is so nice to open a door and grab the bin with all of the right sized hardware. I also just buy bolts in bulk now.

 

[S4Cruiser]

For hardware that is really greasy I use wax remover (paint prep) in a wide mouthed Gatorade bottle. Shake, soak, repeat. Then after drying I toss them into a Harbor Freight 15lb tumbler with their walnut shell media. Let a batch run for 24hrs and they come out all clean and satin finished. Sift in a colander (not your wife’s nice one) and blow clean with compressed air.

For a factory fresh finish, i media blasted the bolt/screw heads as walnut shell media/gunk gets trapped in there. Any imperfections will be magnified after plating.

The only local place to me that does small batches will dip clean and de-rust before plating but it didn’t remove everything.

 

[cruiserboy14]

I haven't gone threw that many bolts yet, but I use a wire brush and my vice. it gets them clean. sadly it usually wipes off the old coating.

 

[mwebfj60]

An ultrasonic cleaner with a cleaner/degreaser solution is the way to go. Takes the grime off and leaves the finish.

 

[John McVicker]

Any rusty bolt will rust 10X faster once it's derusted with any of those de-rusting acids. What grime was on them, protecting them, will be removed and the bolt will be then unprorected and a rust magnet.

What @OSS says is correct...that’s why after derusting/cleaning with Ed’s Red or similar, you put them in a bin and respray them again. They will actually last years and be in good useable shape.

Ed’s Red is NOT for a restoration...but instead for everyday use, replacing parts and keeping things on the road, replacing broken bolts etc.

EDIT: Cleaning & reusing old JIS LandCruiser nuts/bolts will keep your rig going AND still have the correct sized bolt heads instead of the stuff you buy at hardware stores. It’s annoying to have to get off my back and go get the 13m to remove what s/b a 12m bolt.

 

[65swb45]

I haven't gone threw that many bolts yet, but I use a wire brush and my vice. it gets them clean. sadly it usually wipes off the old coating.

I haven't gone threw that many bolts yet, but I use a wire brush and my vice. it gets them clean. sadly it usually wipes off the old coating.

A brass wire brush cleans a little slower, but takes off the finish a LOT slower. You will see when you get your carb back. Going in the dip tank shortly. Left you a voicemail.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

All my bolts I’ve pulled from the engine I toss in ziplock bags w/ labels inside and out. I then spray them in the bag w/ WD40. Figure it’s something better than nothing.

 

[NeverGiveUpYota]

I have used molasses.

Molasses rust removal, anybody tried this?

forum.ih8mud.com

That’s how I did my exhaust manifold. Took only about 10 days and just a few scrubs in between w/ a wire brush.

 

[Bluebj42]

I have used molasses.

Molasses rust removal, anybody tried this?

forum.ih8mud.com

I have also use this for rust removal. Caked grease and oil slow the process down but it still works great even very slowly removes paint. Best part though is no nasty chemicals, dump it on your lawn after.

 

[Paul]

Wow. You guys are advanced.
I use Simple Green in a glass jar. Let the hardware soak for 1-2 days and then wire brush, dry coat with a light oil.
Has worked well for me.
This is not for Show purposes, just function!

 

[cruiserboy14]

Wow. You guys are advanced.
I use Simple Green in a glass jar. Let the hardware soak for 1-2 days and then wire brush, dry coat with a light oil.
Has worked well for me.
This is not for Show purposes, just function!

I have done the same for bad gunk... but I find it only needs to sit an hour or so. i usually let it soak while i prep and paint/fix the part they are off of.

 

[shelfboy1]

wire wheel has worked for me and filling a paint can with bolts and sand and putting it in my paint shaker works well also I have the snap on thread cleaner kit also fo making sure they all work as they should

 

[emac]

I cleaned some with gas and wire brush, some I sent for plating but the best way to get great looking hardware is...........

Full Kit | Yellow Zinc Plated | FJ40

Keep Your Cruiser Correct-Custom Toyota Land Cruiser Bolts, Nuts & Screws, Stainless Available, We Only Sell Cruiser Hardware-FREE Shipping

www.overlandmetric.com

 

[Rainman]

I have a plating biz about 40 minutes away in Nashville. Advance Plating. The best I've seen. They'll do up to 125lbs for 55 bucks. That said, they've told me they love to do my stuff. I think it's my prep work instead of the bucketloads o' bolts they're used to. And since I give them around 20-30 pounds at a time, they tell me the smaller jobs get better attention to detail. So my stuff always ends up looking great.

I have a few different approaches depending on the state of the bolts. For the worst offenders, I use Metal Rescue. It's got a shelf life but it's easy and safe to use. New stuff takes hardly any time. Maybe over night. Then I either blast or bench wheel them. I've found that the shine the wheel gives them doesn't make a difference over the blasted hardware. I chase the threads if they won't easily accept a nut (or bolt). The plater cleans that up with their rinse.

As fas as organizing goes, I like the plastic parts drawers. (I need to buy more now.)

Here's an example of the local work.
3 steps from starting point to finish. Middle is after Metal rescue and maybe wire wheel.

Every one of these were rusted and greasy and dirty when started. You know the drill.

One of my favorite sites in the garage.

 

[middlecalf]

Good stuff here. I haven’t had to worry about too many bolts, most of them get busted on removal anyhow lol.

 

[Dagha Boy]

The idea of a slow cooker sounds good as well. Kind of a “Hotsy” without the pressure. What have you used for solvent? Specially like the slow cook “leave it and forget it” aspect.

I use a local product "Clean Green" which I assume is the same as your "Green" detergent. It is the lazy man's way. Set on medium and leave overnight. Job done.

 

[Dagha Boy]

"Simple Green"

My experiments have taught me that it is all in the prep. If you want shiny an new after the plating it must be that before the plating. Lots of wire wheeling. A tumbler with cat litter as medium gives the best shine and not nearly the hassle of wire wheeling.

I live right on the ocean and we're constantly in damp salty air. Sometimes you can taste it so everything rusts almost instantly. I developed a concoction to restore hard rubber and make it soft and pliable again. It contains waxes and a light solvent to carry the wax into the rubber. I have discovered that it works very well as a rust preventative. I dip almost everything bare metal into it and then just let the solvent evaporate off - about an hour. A very thin layer of wax remains but despite the thinness of the coating it seems to block out the moisture and air. It is not sticky, wipes off or washes off easily doesn't get all over everything, no oily feel or residue and smells really good. (Eucalyptus oil.)

Can't give away the recipe unfortunately as I plan to produce and market it in future. Miracle oil. It works well on unvarnished wood and leather. Great for deck shoes that often get soaked.

 

[samatulich]

Bench vise and a wire brush, or vice grips and a wire wheel. I will chase the treads too. Once they're cleaned up enough I coat them with oil, and organize them on thread size. I do them as needed, or just several at a time.