Where did you get the Spectra? Pep boys never had them.
I got my denso:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378CM/?tag=ihco-20
Best replacement radiator for the money today...
- Thread starter 2001LC
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I got my denso:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004J378CM/?tag=ihco-20
Amazon.
I didn't have the standard worn circles on the shipping box either, I don't know why. If it was messed up on arrival I'd go local. Personally I don't understand the hubub, they're so easy to replace. If it bursts in three or four years, buy another. I would never spend hours debating myself on radiator brand.
I didn't have the standard worn circles on the shipping box either, I don't know why. If it was messed up on arrival I'd go local. Personally I don't understand the hubub, they're so easy to replace. If it bursts in three or four years, buy another. I would never spend hours debating myself on radiator brand.
I suppose it depends a lot on WHERE you are when it bursts. I can imagine some scenarios where a split radiator would NEVER be welcome, let alone every 3 to 4 years.
Personally, I'm in the 'do your research' camp.
Thanks the link.
I ordered the spectra from pepboys online and had it shipped to a store in Roswell. Took a week to get there.
- Thread starter
- #165
If you post picture of spectra's business end (lower connection), we'll get a good idea if same as OEM.
The CU2755 I have here has the bottom PS shroud tab on the outlet same as OEM. Which looks different than Camino's picture. My oem radiator is still in the truck, and the slee skid is in the way of taking accurate measurements but I was able to get a ruler in to measure the locations of the cooler fittings, shroud tabs, outlet pipe and they are all with in few mm of the location on the Spectra I have here. So initial appearances and rough measurements indicate a very close if not exact match. The filler neck measures the same location, and the reservoir tab looks in the same spot as well. Based on what I am seeing, I will go ahead and try to install this and report back on the fitment next weekend.
BTW: I measured the core on the spectra and it is 2 1/16” deep; which is thicker than the Denso, and the CU2282 version
Let me know if you need any other images or measurements
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How many of these have we seen people break off?
I'm jealous.
Wait to be jealous after I have a successful install.
- Thread starter
- #170
@abuck99 looks good, What are the transmission cooler lines made out of?
Here's some quick pic I took today of Factory OE. You can see positions, also see cooler lines are aluminum.
21 1/2" center to center shroud mounts.
Estimate core is ~2 1/4"
Here's some quick pic I took today of Factory OE. You can see positions, also see cooler lines are aluminum.
21 1/2" center to center shroud mounts.
Estimate core is ~2 1/4"
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Can you remove the side frame and measure the actual core- would be interesting to know.
The line fittings appear to be brass, and my understanding is the concentric type cooler is also made of brass.
- Thread starter
- #173
I'll post core measurement next chance I have to measure.
BRASS FITTING... I'm not sure what you mean "concentric type cooler"? If this means brass tube is circled by aluminum then we're good!. Or it's only brass fitting that doesn't come in contact with coolant, then we're good.
My only concern is if brass comes into contact with coolant. So this brings us back to the debate on Brass, Copper or Stainless Steel heater tee's. Could this cause coolant to become acidic sooner than normal and/or resulting in electrolysis..
I've found, those (brass or factory aluminum) transmission cooler lines nipple leak from being loose more than once. So check yours.
While checking, perhaps you could twist off and inspect inside for what is the internal material (brass, aluminum or plastic) it contacts
.
BRASS FITTING... I'm not sure what you mean "concentric type cooler"? If this means brass tube is circled by aluminum then we're good!. Or it's only brass fitting that doesn't come in contact with coolant, then we're good.
My only concern is if brass comes into contact with coolant. So this brings us back to the debate on Brass, Copper or Stainless Steel heater tee's. Could this cause coolant to become acidic sooner than normal and/or resulting in electrolysis..
I've found, those (brass or factory aluminum) transmission cooler lines nipple leak from being loose more than once. So check yours.
While checking, perhaps you could twist off and inspect inside for what is the internal material (brass, aluminum or plastic) it contacts
.I'll post core measurement next chance I have to measure.
BRASS FITTING... I'm not sure what you mean "concentric type cooler"? If this means brass tube is circled by aluminum then we're good!. Or it's only brass fitting that doesn't come in contact with coolant, then we're good.
My only concern is if brass comes into contact with coolant. So this brings us back to the debate on Brass, Copper or Stainless Steel heater tee's. Could this cause coolant to become acidic sooner than normal and/or resulting in electrolysis..
I've found, those (brass or factory aluminum) transmission cooler lines nipple leak from being loose more than once. So check yours.
While checking, perhaps you could twist off and inspect inside for what is the internal material (brass, aluminum or plastic) it contacts
Concentric cooler is a long tube type vs a stacked design like what is found in the OEM or Denso. Discussed earlier in this thread. You can google it to see the differences and to surmise the pros or cons. The concentric cooler in this radiator is brass. The brass line fittings are paint marked torqued in place(you can see in the pictures) and appear tight to feel but no way I’m removing one or putting a wrench on them. That might void the warranty. If they happen to leak I will pull the rad and return. Pepboys has a limited lifetime warranty on the radiator.
I have no concerns over the use of brass in the fittings or the cooler. I do not beleive it has much impact on the cooling system chemistry in the short run- 3yrs/36,000 miles which is when I would exchange my fluids. If it were a concern, the manufacturer wouldnt use it. Purely speculation, but I suspect aluminum cooler type is used by denso as a cost savings weight savings measure instead vs designing for chemical compatibility. (Brass is more than twice the cost of aluminum, and considerably heavier.)
We’re getting deep in the weeds with this topic. All I want is a reliable product for a “reasonable” service interval, at a fair price. Im not expecting to get 15years/200k miles from a replacement. Hopefully this unit delivers.
98 LX core:
04 LC core:
Denso China side:
Denso Taiwan side:
Good stuff-98 LX core:
04 LC core:
Denso China side:Denso Taiwan side:
If you planning to toss the radiator- lets find out whats inside: how many cores, and what the trans oil cooler looks like.
I've been planning to cut them open, just haven't done it yet.
Post Spectra CU2755 install update:
It's been a week since the radiator install. I've been enjoying watching the cooler running temps on my scanguage- about 8-10 degrees cooler than the original that came out. The only hiccup so far was a small drip from the lower hose outlet. I had used a new hose (Toyota) but reused the spring clamp. I noticed a few days ago that there was a small drip coming from the end of the hose where it meets the radiator. I moved the clamp to a few different positions, and closer in towards the radiator but it the drip persisted. So I drained the tank and pulled the hose to have a look at the outlet. I measured the outlet (OD 41.10mm) against the OEM outlet (OD 42.65mm) just enough space for coolant to seep by. So approximately 1.5mm smaller OD on the Spectra outlet. For reference, the Toyota hose was ID 42mm. So the larger hose, on the smaller outlet with the used spring clamp yielded a small drip. I could have put an adjustable clamp on but that was a last resort- I don't have a proper cooling hose adj. clamp ( type with rolled edges for rubber hose) and I really prefer the Toyota spring clamps.
I had another new (non oem) hose on hand: Continental Elite #62745. I bought it a few months ago for something like $8 on that RockAuto close out deal- couldn't pass up that price and figured I might need that someday. I dug it out of my spares box and had a look to see if it might have a smaller ID by chance. Sure enough ID was approx 40mm, so 1mm less than the outlet. The Conti hose also has a greater wall thickness than the Toyota hose (6.5mm vs 4mm) more heavy duty. I also brought out the new spring clamps I bought ( I should have installed from the beginning) and used those this time around. Refilled and burped the radiator ran it for an hour- no drips over night and ran it today and so far so good. Hopefully that solves it.
Recap: Spectra Lower outlet OD is smaller than OEM by -1.5mm and may leak. If you are reusing old hose chances are it will leak. If your are using a new OEM Toyota hose, it will probably leak. The Continental Elite has a better fit then oem hose & probably stronger as its thicker rubber. I also suggest new spring clamps. Or you can just use adjustable clamps if thats your preference. FWIW the Conti hose is $12.33 on RA. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1333970&jsn=6
It's been a week since the radiator install. I've been enjoying watching the cooler running temps on my scanguage- about 8-10 degrees cooler than the original that came out. The only hiccup so far was a small drip from the lower hose outlet. I had used a new hose (Toyota) but reused the spring clamp. I noticed a few days ago that there was a small drip coming from the end of the hose where it meets the radiator. I moved the clamp to a few different positions, and closer in towards the radiator but it the drip persisted. So I drained the tank and pulled the hose to have a look at the outlet. I measured the outlet (OD 41.10mm) against the OEM outlet (OD 42.65mm) just enough space for coolant to seep by. So approximately 1.5mm smaller OD on the Spectra outlet. For reference, the Toyota hose was ID 42mm. So the larger hose, on the smaller outlet with the used spring clamp yielded a small drip. I could have put an adjustable clamp on but that was a last resort- I don't have a proper cooling hose adj. clamp ( type with rolled edges for rubber hose) and I really prefer the Toyota spring clamps.
I had another new (non oem) hose on hand: Continental Elite #62745. I bought it a few months ago for something like $8 on that RockAuto close out deal- couldn't pass up that price and figured I might need that someday. I dug it out of my spares box and had a look to see if it might have a smaller ID by chance. Sure enough ID was approx 40mm, so 1mm less than the outlet. The Conti hose also has a greater wall thickness than the Toyota hose (6.5mm vs 4mm) more heavy duty. I also brought out the new spring clamps I bought ( I should have installed from the beginning) and used those this time around. Refilled and burped the radiator ran it for an hour- no drips over night and ran it today and so far so good. Hopefully that solves it.
Recap: Spectra Lower outlet OD is smaller than OEM by -1.5mm and may leak. If you are reusing old hose chances are it will leak. If your are using a new OEM Toyota hose, it will probably leak. The Continental Elite has a better fit then oem hose & probably stronger as its thicker rubber. I also suggest new spring clamps. Or you can just use adjustable clamps if thats your preference. FWIW the Conti hose is $12.33 on RA. https://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1333970&jsn=6
- Thread starter
- #179
Post Spectra Premium CU2755. I' not happy.
Like @abuck99 my OD on inlets and outlets gooseneck are smaller. Additional radiator or just tops may be 3 to 5mm shorter. I say this as my upper foam is sitting ~3 mm below upper radiator support, not a big deal.
Also I notice casting marks on lower gooseneck outlet and that of reservoir gooseneck outlet/inlet. At first it looked as if casting marks raised and could be filed off/down. But that is not the case, they are valleys. These valleys are channel coolant can leaks through.
My lower hose is leaky just as @abuck99 was. I'm not inclined to use aftermarket hoses and clamp. So this one goes back.................
Like @abuck99 my OD on inlets and outlets gooseneck are smaller. Additional radiator or just tops may be 3 to 5mm shorter. I say this as my upper foam is sitting ~3 mm below upper radiator support, not a big deal.
Also I notice casting marks on lower gooseneck outlet and that of reservoir gooseneck outlet/inlet. At first it looked as if casting marks raised and could be filed off/down. But that is not the case, they are valleys. These valleys are channel coolant can leaks through.
My lower hose is leaky just as @abuck99 was. I'm not inclined to use aftermarket hoses and clamp. So this one goes back.................
Post Spectra Premium CU2755. I' not happy.
Like @abuck99 my OD on inlets and outlets gooseneck are smaller. Additional radiator or just tops may be 3 to 5mm shorter. I say this as my upper foam is sitting ~3 mm below upper radiator support, not a big deal.
Also I notice casting marks on lower gooseneck outlet and that of reservoir gooseneck outlet/inlet. At first it looked as if casting marks raised and could be filed off/down. But that is not the case, they are valleys. These valleys are channel coolant can leaks through.
My lower hose is leaky just as @abuck99 was. I'm not inclined to use aftermarket hoses and clamp. So this one goes back.................
Thats a bummer. The Continental hose I linked above it fitting very well with Factory spring clamps. I noticed its substantially thicker than the oem replacement hose, and its ID a anout 2 smaller so should anykne find their spectra leaking at the outlet, try that hose.
Paul- somewhere on that Soextra radiator is an orange manufacturing sticker with date. Let me know if you find it under the side rails.