Best Bedliner for full body paint (3 Viewers)

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I was told it was a thicker rock chip preventative paint and that it was hard for the body shop to match. I remember years ago I went to a very good body shop after getting sideswiped by a van and being told they would try their best, turned out I couldn't tell any difference but I appreciated them telling me before hand.
I remember a dealership body shop telling me something similar.
 
Did Monstaliner Desert Sand/Black on mine about 6 weeks ago so I cant really speak about UV resistance or longevity, but I've been thrilled with the product thus far. Used 2 gallons of tan plus 1 gallon of black, and didnt have much to spare. Rolling the paint was pretty easy, but the prep was killer. Probably 50 hours of disassembly and hand-sanding and taping for 10 hours of painting (4 coats over 2 days, 2 tan/2 black with retaping and sanding in between). That said I am terrible at painting, so if I can do it anyone can. I havent been too rough on it yet, but it has held up well to some love pats from low-hanging Live Oak branches.
 
Monstaliner has been well documented as a great product for full body paint here on mud. I need to do my whole truck eventually. I just need to find the time and $$.

Yeah, I found the Monstaliner Bedliner thread and have read up to page 28 of 41 so far. It's really starting to tip my opinion towards that product. I haven't read anything about it that turns me off yet.

The fact that Line-X only warranties their product in the bed of a pickup is kind of a deal killer for me. For the $$$ they charge I would expect a better warranty.
 
Did Monstaliner Desert Sand/Black on mine about 6 weeks ago so I cant really speak about UV resistance or longevity, but I've been thrilled with the product thus far. Used 2 gallons of tan plus 1 gallon of black, and didnt have much to spare. Rolling the paint was pretty easy, but the prep was killer. Probably 50 hours of disassembly and hand-sanding and taping for 10 hours of painting (4 coats over 2 days, 2 tan/2 black with retaping and sanding in between). That said I am terrible at painting, so if I can do it anyone can. I havent been too rough on it yet, but it has held up well to some love pats from low-hanging Live Oak branches.

I'm really digging the Desert Sand color. That looks really sharp! Good info on the number of hours of prep work, etc.

I can see 2 gallons of Desert Sand, but where did you use a whole gallon of black?
 
I used speedliner on mine 3 years ago. Shot it myself. Just like painting prep is the key. It sits outside in the Az sun 100% of the time. It’s dirty but when cleaned up looks great. You could always topcoat after if your really want uv protection. I used ppg pigment but the pearl did not come through so it’s darker than I wanted.

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I've used Monstaliner a few times now. Everything from storage drawers, to rocker sections, to full covers including door jambs. The final texture depends on how patient you are on the final roll out. It can be really rough or semi smooth. I shoot for a semi smooth texture. It's easier to clean and it seems to reduce the amount of bits and pieces the foam rollers leave behind in the coating.

Here's my old 60 I did a full coat on. I will probably use it on my new to me 80 this coming spring as well.

J

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I can see 2 gallons of Desert Sand, but where did you use a whole gallon of black?

I painted black the front bumper, rear bumpers/crossmember, mirrors, door-handles, the outline of where my fender flares used to be and that little line down the side. Those bumpers had way more surface area than it looked like. I had maybe a little over a cup of black left over after all was said and done.
 
X 2 on rattle can and repairs!

I had my 97 Collectors Edition bedlined 10 years ago after hitting an elk. I really wished I didn’t bedline it.

The shop used Upol Raptor Liner, Which is sold by auto paint stores and is tintable. The shop owner chose it because it wasn’t as course as other bedliners. The shop owner, who it turned out had memory problems due to a stroke, painted it bedliner black, which was absolutely what I didn’t want. He painted over it with the factory emerald green paint, which mostly defeated the point of bedliner. It looks good, and the texture hides scratches some.

In 10 years, I have had it in the body shop twice for repairs after accidents. Both shops did there best to match, but the bedliner texture is different every time it’s sprayed. I hate now. I have a few rust bubbles and want to trim for bigger tires. The bedliner makes repairs and mods way more complicated. I wanted gray when I got my Cruiser rebuilt, got green on the bedliner because it was the original color and the only way to get the shop to paint over completely on his dime. I still plan on repainting it rattle can gray, but the bedliner again makes it a pain!
 
I painted black the front bumper, rear bumpers/crossmember, mirrors, door-handles, the outline of where my fender flares used to be and that little line down the side. Those bumpers had way more surface area than it looked like. I had maybe a little over a cup of black left over after all was said and done.

Ah, good to know. I will probably go with 1 color on the body (exterior, interior, belly) but was thinking of using black in the wheel wells, front and rear bumper and sliders. Sounds like a gallon might not do the job.

Since I'll have access to the frame while I'm swapping bodies, I might look at rolling it as well. I thought about pulling everything off the frame and having it powdercoated, but that's A LOT more work (on top of what I'm already signing up for) and a lot more $$$ too. Rolling monstaliner on the frame might be the ticket to keeping my frame protected and saving me time and money.
 
Just went and looked through some of the pics I took, and it looks like I had more like a quart of black left over, so if youre not doing the sides of the vehicle like I did then a gallon may just be enough. But 2 gallons barely did the outside of the body (I used every drop I could get), so if you're doing belly/interior you're gonna need quite a bit more.
 
X 2 on rattle can and repairs!

I had my 97 Collectors Edition bedlined 10 years ago after hitting an elk. I really wished I didn’t bedline it.

The shop used Upol Raptor Liner, Which is sold by auto paint stores and is tintable. The shop owner chose it because it wasn’t as course as other bedliners.

That's good to know about Raptor, and yes, I can see where painting over it would defeat the purpose. I was considering tintable Raptor as that is what Proffitt's uses, but now I'm leaning heavily towards Monstaliner. I've read a couple posts where people have talked about having good success matching the color of Monstaliner 100% after having to replace fenders, etc. a couple years down the road, and haven't heard of anyone saying the opposite. I think as long as it is rolled on in the same manner that it was originally applied the texture should be pretty close.

I have no intention of trimming my fenders as 35's are big enough for the wheeling that I do, and my hope is that by coating the entire body with it that rust will not be a concern.
 
I have no intention of trimming my fenders as 35's are big enough for the wheeling that I do, and my hope is that by coating the entire body with it that rust will not be a concern.

The tricky part about rust is along the window gasket seams, especially back window. That’s where my bedlined 97 and my 2 other FZJ80s with factory paint all have some rust bubbles. So watch that area. Bedliner has complicated body part swaps, mirrors, fuel doors, etc.

I loved the idea of scratch proof paint, but I have really come to regret bedliner over the years even if the color had been done right. It greatly complicates repairs done the road, which defeats its purpose as trail paint.
 
If rust is an issue for you, I would look into a good zinc-rich primer/undercoat.
 
I've used Monstaliner a few times now. Everything from storage drawers, to rocker sections, to full covers including door jambs. The final texture depends on how patient you are on the final roll out. It can be really rough or semi smooth. I shoot for a semi smooth texture. It's easier to clean and it seems to reduce the amount of bits and pieces the foam rollers leave behind in the coating.

Here's my old 60 I did a full coat on. I will probably use it on my new to me 80 this coming spring as well.

J

View attachment 1603846
so to get a semi smooth texture you MUST roll on correct... or can you spray as well??
 
FYI, have sprayed raptor several times on floors and after a few years had it start to lift. This is doing the same exact prep as I do for Monstaliner. I am a big fan of UPOL products, so I am very surprised by this; however, i will not use Raptor again after these issues. This is a very recent change of events, as I recommended raptor many times before. Too bad, as it is easier to spray, longer open time, and LOTS less smell and pain cleaning.
 
Thank you to everyone who shared their experience in this thread. After weighing all of my options and thinking about how I want to use my 80, I've decided to go a slightly different direction. Instead of doing a body swap onto my wrecked 80 and painting/bedlining it, I've decided to buy another 80 and swap all my upgrades from the wrecked 80 over to that one, then chop the body on the wrecked 80 and turn it into a truggy. This gives me a solid & built 80 for my DD and any trips I want to take, plus a very capable crawler that I can wheel hard with a little less anxiety.

I'll share the progress in the build thread for the truggy for anyone who wants to follow that. TXGringo's 40th Anniversary Build Thread
 
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