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Poorly wired trucks can end up like this quickly. (Although not the actual cause of this fire). Fuse block is the way to go.
Best battery terminals to organize all the crap!
- Thread starter Fj moneypit
- Start date
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I've been debating whether to get a "hobby" business of putting together direct fit aux fuse blocks for 80's. I would put them together with a littelfuse block (rated to 200 amps) and would use metripack connectors, fusible links, busbars for grounding and the whole 9 yards. I just assume you're all too cheap to buy them so it has fallen way down on my list ($300-$400, but would have 6 switched circuits which could handle a lot of juice and I could fit 6 more fused constant circuits which there is little use for).
If space or money wasn't an issue, RMTR would be the simplest, but you need to know what configuration you are going with so you can get the busbars correct. I can fit 2 x 200 amp littelfuse blocks in about the same space as 1 RMTR for reference on size.
This Blue Sea block attaches directly to the battery and includes a negative bus. It is sweet and I just got one for my Kimberley Kamper. The more I see and experience Blue Sea stuff the more I like it. Cruiser Outfitters can supply these items.
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BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Bump
Been reading a lot of mud threads on blue Sea fuse blocks. are you happy with your setup would you change anything different?
this is my first 80 series build I'm currently going with Baja designs LED lights in my bumper and winch those are the only extra power items I'll be installing on to the battery terminals.
When I ordered the Baja designs Squadron pro lights I also ordered their proprietary wiring harness with relay and rocker switch.
Just ordered the Delta vehicle systems mil-spec terminals.
Been reading a lot of mud threads on blue Sea fuse blocks. are you happy with your setup would you change anything different?
this is my first 80 series build I'm currently going with Baja designs LED lights in my bumper and winch those are the only extra power items I'll be installing on to the battery terminals.
When I ordered the Baja designs Squadron pro lights I also ordered their proprietary wiring harness with relay and rocker switch.
Just ordered the Delta vehicle systems mil-spec terminals.
NLXTACY
Wits' End
SwitchPro now. The added functionality makes it worth it.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
I'll check it out Thanks Joey
REKCUT
SILVER Star
TexasLandCruiser
SILVER Star
This is a short good thread. I struggled when I first bought my LC. Made a few changes but ultimately ended up like this. Reading an article about alternator power surge. An engineer dude was says if you have the opportunity to isolate the alternator from connecting directly to the system do it. Meaning allowing the battery capacity to act as a surge protector. This is one of many steps I took to clean up the chaos. Here’s a pic before and after. I found 12v feeds (yes plural) exposed not removed, live 12 direct to battery within 2 different harnesses bouncing off the frame with weld marks from arcing. Was very discouraged with the human race when I discovered
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Here's mine - I like overkill! The big terminals are off ebay and are meant for the boom boom big stereo guys.
Outgoing wires are to winch, Switchpros, Redarc BCDC, ARB twin compressor and Blue Sea Safety hub for power distribution to various other smaller accessories. Fused at battery with Bluesea terminal fuses where necessary.
Aux batt is LifePo and also uses Bluesea terminal fuses.
Outgoing wires are to winch, Switchpros, Redarc BCDC, ARB twin compressor and Blue Sea Safety hub for power distribution to various other smaller accessories. Fused at battery with Bluesea terminal fuses where necessary.
Aux batt is LifePo and also uses Bluesea terminal fuses.
lumbee1
Native American
Starting battery with milspec terminals.
House battery with milspec terminals
House battery with milspec terminals
Only one wire to battery terminal.
Battery->kill switch->120A fuse->MTA relay and fuse box.
Battery->kill switch->120A fuse->MTA relay and fuse box.
seriously? create a rats nest on your battery?
Since you revived a 5-year-old post. It's hardly a rats nest and it's in a camp trailer.
Late to the party, but indeed:
1) minimize terminal connections
2) distribute power from an elsewhere-mounted fuse box
3) use good terminals, good wire, good loom, good heat shrink, and good routing paths
4) pay close attention to fusing such that no circuit is fused more than 50% over expected draw on said same
5) design in the ability to isolate everything beyond the crank batt from all other added circuits - as quickly as possible, preferrably without having to physically touch it - i.e. a dash-switched relay or automatic breaker (tho a 'cheap' breaker can be sometimes problematic with heat soak)
6) under no circumstance use an OEM wire harness for anything aftermarket/add-on. Design a completely separate wiring scheme, w/isolation (see #5)
1) minimize terminal connections
2) distribute power from an elsewhere-mounted fuse box
3) use good terminals, good wire, good loom, good heat shrink, and good routing paths
4) pay close attention to fusing such that no circuit is fused more than 50% over expected draw on said same
5) design in the ability to isolate everything beyond the crank batt from all other added circuits - as quickly as possible, preferrably without having to physically touch it - i.e. a dash-switched relay or automatic breaker (tho a 'cheap' breaker can be sometimes problematic with heat soak)
6) under no circumstance use an OEM wire harness for anything aftermarket/add-on. Design a completely separate wiring scheme, w/isolation (see #5)
Do you guys not have the factory aux fusebox on the US models? They're standard down here in Aus on all models. Images ripped elsewhere from mud:
I run all my basic accessories off this box. Might snap a pic tomorrow. It's ready to go with factory wiring and a weatherproof housing. Only two things, my LED light bar, and my 20A run to a custom rear panel for other part-time accessories (IE, camping fridge, air pump), get their own runs to the aux battery (behind auto-reset breakers).
I run all my basic accessories off this box. Might snap a pic tomorrow. It's ready to go with factory wiring and a weatherproof housing. Only two things, my LED light bar, and my 20A run to a custom rear panel for other part-time accessories (IE, camping fridge, air pump), get their own runs to the aux battery (behind auto-reset breakers).
Azca
If there is a harder way - I will find it...
It appears to be: 82670-60030 for the general part. The wiring, mounting bracket will also be needed. I am betting our US spec units don't have provisions in the wiring harness for this. Partsouq show none available.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I've used Blue sea products for years, actually started using them on boats. There are very stringent wiring standards for boats, because an electrical fire on a boat generally means abandoning ship. Blue sea makes quality components for this environment which is also extremely harsh when salt water is involved.
Do a little research on boat wiring. The big difference with most boat wiring is that the grounds are all run as there is generally no metal frame or body to ground to.
I start with one of these at the battery
I prefer Bussman fuse/relay boxes that have 10 fuses and 5 relays. It is very tidy and allows for 5 fused relay circuits and 5 fuses circuits from on compact box. Read through this thread and you should come away with a basic understanding of how it all works.
www.tacomaworld.com
I also build all my electric circuits to be easily repaired down the line. I rarely wire something direct from the fuse block to the device. Just like the OEM wiring in your truck I build in one or two sub harnesses so that if there is an issue you do not have to remove a circuit completely.
Draw it all out on paper first, you will be surprised at all the things you might have missed by just winging it. Always leave yourself a bit of slack in your harness to account for getting around obstacles between the fuse block and device. You also want zero strain on the harness at any point.
Run your harness in some type of loom and clamp the harnesses down EVERYWHERE.
Do a little research on boat wiring. The big difference with most boat wiring is that the grounds are all run as there is generally no metal frame or body to ground to.
I start with one of these at the battery
I prefer Bussman fuse/relay boxes that have 10 fuses and 5 relays. It is very tidy and allows for 5 fused relay circuits and 5 fuses circuits from on compact box. Read through this thread and you should come away with a basic understanding of how it all works.
DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block
Part 1 - Introduction [IMG] This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you’re not...
www.tacomaworld.com
I also build all my electric circuits to be easily repaired down the line. I rarely wire something direct from the fuse block to the device. Just like the OEM wiring in your truck I build in one or two sub harnesses so that if there is an issue you do not have to remove a circuit completely.
Draw it all out on paper first, you will be surprised at all the things you might have missed by just winging it. Always leave yourself a bit of slack in your harness to account for getting around obstacles between the fuse block and device. You also want zero strain on the harness at any point.
Run your harness in some type of loom and clamp the harnesses down EVERYWHERE.
How did you mount your bussmann relay box?I've used Blue sea products for years, actually started using them on boats. There are very stringent wiring standards for boats, because an electrical fire on a boat generally means abandoning ship. Blue sea makes quality components for this environment which is also extremely harsh when salt water is involved.
Do a little research on boat wiring. The big difference with most boat wiring is that the grounds are all run as there is generally no metal frame or body to ground to.
I start with one of these at the battery
I prefer Bussman fuse/relay boxes that have 10 fuses and 5 relays. It is very tidy and allows for 5 fused relay circuits and 5 fuses circuits from on compact box. Read through this thread and you should come away with a basic understanding of how it all works.
DIY - Build and install a Bussmann RTMR Fuse/Relay Block
Part 1 - Introduction [IMG] This is Part 1 in a series of tutorials that will show you how to build a Bussmann RTMR fuse/relay block. If you’re not...
I also build all my electric circuits to be easily repaired down the line. I rarely wire something direct from the fuse block to the device. Just like the OEM wiring in your truck I build in one or two sub harnesses so that if there is an issue you do not have to remove a circuit completely.
Draw it all out on paper first, you will be surprised at all the things you might have missed by just winging it. Always leave yourself a bit of slack in your harness to account for getting around obstacles between the fuse block and device. You also want zero strain on the harness at any point.
Run your harness in some type of loom and clamp the harnesses down EVERYWHERE.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
I make a plate that the box an one ground bus mounts to, then I make a lower enclosure to fit the spot I choose to mount the box, leaving one side open for the leads running to and from the box
