Best battery terminals to organize all the crap!

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Busman (Eaton) also manufactures quite a bit of the Blue Sea Systems equipment IIRC. Quality products.
 
Any
I make a plate that the box an one ground bus mounts to, then I make a lower enclosure to fit the spot I choose to mount the box, leaving one side open for the leads running to and from the box
I make a plate that the box an one ground bus mounts to, then I make a lower enclosure to fit the spot I choose to mount the box, leaving one side open for the leads running to and from the box
Any chance you have a pic of that plate?
I just got a bussmann relay box myself and Im trying to find some ideas on how to mount it
 
Do you guys not have the factory aux fusebox on the US models? They're standard down here in Aus on all models. Images ripped elsewhere from mud:
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I run all my basic accessories off this box. Might snap a pic tomorrow. It's ready to go with factory wiring and a weatherproof housing. Only two things, my LED light bar, and my 20A run to a custom rear panel for other part-time accessories (IE, camping fridge, air pump), get their own runs to the aux battery (behind auto-reset breakers).
Only diesels got those. HDJ-81s etc.
 
Any


Any chance you have a pic of that plate?
I just got a bussmann relay box myself and Im trying to find some ideas on how to mount it
I make a plate that the box an one ground bus mounts to, then I make a lower enclosure to fit the spot I choose to mount the box, leaving one side open for the leads running to and from the box

I just finished building a bussmann rtmr from that Tacomaworld link, and I’m interested to see how you mounted it as well. I’ve got a U.S. spec 95fzj so the charcoal canister is in the way of mounting it behind the battery. Only running the stock battery currently. Not sure if I want to mount it on the other side of the engine bay but might be the only option.
 
I just finished building a bussmann rtmr from that Tacomaworld link, and I’m interested to see how you mounted it as well. I’ve got a U.S. spec 95fzj so the charcoal canister is in the way of mounting it behind the battery. Only running the stock battery currently. Not sure if I want to mount it on the other side of the engine bay but might be the only option.
Pics?
 

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Do a search of threads I've started in the 60 and 80 section and you will find photos of builds of the box and the plates etc.
 
Slee sells aluminum terminal posts with solid connection points. I’ve been happy with the results combined with a SwitchPro.


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The slee terminals look great. I have a similar setup.

This is the combo I went with- which gives the option of post mounts for oem cables.
(*depending on battery height, post adapters may not clear-but nice they supply options )

terminals:
cables:
 
This will upset the purists. I have two Northstar batteries in my 80 - both identical configuration (not mirror imaged terminals).





I don't have a winch. Only things on main battery are primary loads such as headlight harness, foglight harness, link to dual-battery solenoid, starter motor, and fusible links running the factory electrical system.

On the second battery I run my ABR sidewinder air compressor, my audio system (plus a link to a not-in-use yet Alpine block amp), and some anderson stuff at the back. Should I ever re-design the back to be a more 'formalised' 4wd/camping setup with draws, etc. the aux batt will also power a fridge.

I don't have the dual batt solenoid set up with a manual over-ride switch to join aux and main but that is an option.

The connections between main and aux batts are run with 35 mm sq welding type cable and the pos links either side of the solenoid are both fused (one for each batt pos link to the solenoid).
 
I've used Blue sea products for years, actually started using them on boats. There are very stringent wiring standards for boats, because an electrical fire on a boat generally means abandoning ship. Blue sea makes quality components for this environment which is also extremely harsh when salt water is involved.

Do a little research on boat wiring. The big difference with most boat wiring is that the grounds are all run as there is generally no metal frame or body to ground to.

I start with one of these at the battery
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I prefer Bussman fuse/relay boxes that have 10 fuses and 5 relays. It is very tidy and allows for 5 fused relay circuits and 5 fuses circuits from on compact box. Read through this thread and you should come away with a basic understanding of how it all works.


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I also build all my electric circuits to be easily repaired down the line. I rarely wire something direct from the fuse block to the device. Just like the OEM wiring in your truck I build in one or two sub harnesses so that if there is an issue you do not have to remove a circuit completely.

Draw it all out on paper first, you will be surprised at all the things you might have missed by just winging it. Always leave yourself a bit of slack in your harness to account for getting around obstacles between the fuse block and device. You also want zero strain on the harness at any point.

Run your harness in some type of loom and clamp the harnesses down EVERYWHERE.

1AYZ2_AS03
+1 on all this...I've been running a custom version of the Bussman fuse/relay, those on battery terminals and fully loomed/bolted lines for 10 years with zero issues. Cry once up front when it comes to wiring...gets pricey quick!
 
Thought I'd add, even if you don't want to spend a fortune, there's plenty of dirt cheap options to make your wiring nice. I've found the need for relays multiplying on my 80, and I'm planning to install one of these:
It isn't a big brand, it's just a china cheapy, but it'll do the job.
 
Blue sea stuff is great! Also the slee terminals are great.

To the guy who put the lithium battery under the hood.... have you killed it yet? There is no way I would put my lithium battery under the hood to be subjected to that heat.
 
the temp in an engine bay should not exceed the danger point for lithium based batteries (around 200 C) but I agree it's not a safe proposition as a runaway thermal breakdown fire of a lithium power source is nearly impossible to extinguish without m-a-a-a-a-s-i-v-e amounts of water to cool it and stop the reaction.
 

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