"best" 2F

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Bringing this one back from the dead. Just a great thread to read.

Question. What about cryogenics. Could you not treat all the engine components to give them more life, make them stronger? I would thing the crank, connecting rods, cam and lifters would certainly bebefit.

One more attempt at resuscitation.

Has long term wear ever been deemed improvable with cryogenic treatment?

I know powderpig is a proponent for gears, axles, bearings, and other wear items, to which I adhered to on the 80, but the only real world experience I have benefitting is the fact that my wife's cryo'd razors last for months, instead of a week.
 
Bumping a good thread. Almost two years dead.

Do all FJ60 2F engine blocks have the same mounting points for motor mounts, power steering, alternator, etc. ?

Example: I have a 1984 2F. Could I take an '87 block and bolt my motor mounts, power steering, and alternator to it?
 
Yep. Mounts all the same.
 
I re-learn something every time I go back to this thread...

Having had a couple of years to further the quest for knowledge, by attempting to build the "Best 2F", I feel I've found the thread ending answer.....

image.jpg


Admission: contemplating another 2F rebuild, only because of the quality and condition of the vintage in which it currently resides, but it'll be the last.

From every perspective, except accuracy, 1FZs/H151Fs/HF1As with MT ECUs are, hands down, winners compared to uber building 2Fs.
 
From every perspective, except accuracy, 1FZs/H151Fs/HF1As with MT ECUs are, hands down, winners compared to uber building 2Fs.

I hope the accuracy would creep in at some point! :-)

How about mounting that set-up in something originally equipped w/ F/2F/3FE? And availability? Would you start importing these?
 
I hope the accuracy would creep in at some point! :)

You're aware the extent I went to keep the '76 block period correct, but even later 2Fs parts availability has dwindled and what is left is whatever must've been on the production lines, when they ceased.

That said.....

What started as merely an '78 2F NOS head build at Jim C's, has already pushed down the slippery slope, with momentum building on the downhill slide towards rebuilding the 2F.....albeit, simple without deviation into what's "best".

How about mounting that set-up in something originally equipped w/ F/2F/3FE? And availability? Would you start importing these?

It's an I6 and physically fit into many platforms that had 3F/3FEs in preceding years, BUT the drivetrain is relatively long and may pose challenges in SWB 40/70.

Works in MWB and perfectly fit in 55/60s.

1FZs are a dime a dozen.
H151F/HF1As are easily sourced and now that Ward and Georg are handling TT "kits", rebuilding and/or new clutches aren't a hassle, either.

ECUs and complete harnesses are cheap at any wrecker in Oz, but not necessary, considering the standalone options.

I have no desire to import anything beyond what I think I may need.

Frank covers SA, Joe K covers Europe, and there's plenty of Australian scrappers that have proven legit.

Their businesses, so their headaches. I have enough of my own.
 
Jason, fwiw I've noticed that the 2Fs in the 81 up motors have better 'balancing' [and I use that term loosely] from the factory than the 80 and older. Therefore, they should hold up a little better at the higher rpms you're contemplating with the turbo.

Of the 75-80 models, compression is higher in the 75 and 76 models, which have pistons which are slightly domed.

Hth

:)
my 77 has domed also
 
this may have been answered but you cant put a flat top head on an engine with dome pistons .the pistons hit the head and the motor will be locked up i found this out from experiance
 
Bump for an amazing thread... learned a whole bunch from reading this start to finish. We are lucky to have guys like @Poser , @Mark W, and @FJ40Jim willing to chip in with their knowledge.
 
For those of us who don’t know anything about fords, can someone share the details of the valve stem seal to use with the SBC valves? What engine where they used in?
 
This is the info I’ve compiled from this thread and others and what I plan on doing with my 2F.

2F engine mods

Bored 1.5mm over
Late rods balanced with ARP studs
ARP PN 203-6004
Dynamic balance crank and flywheel

Mill head 1mm
SBC valves 1.5 exhaust 4.88, 1.84 intake 4.88

Compression ratio 9.05:1 calculated

68-69 intake or offenhauser c series ported to head
FI tech go street EFI
DUI HEI

Oil pump port and polish
Replace oil gallery plug in head
Timing plate torx screws 90149-10001

Cam:
Duration @ .016 262 deg
Intake opens 24 closes 59
Exhaust opens 62 closes 34
Cam rise .284 L/C 108 deg
Lash intake .014 exhaust .014
 
The 68 manifold is not all that. The final design of intake, 79-87, moves the carb farther from the head so the mixture inequality is reduced.
Just saying...

Well my 69 intake might stay on the shelf as a display piece then!:)

Do you know off hand the details of the ford seals?

Thanks for all the wisdom you have shared so far. If you were a little closer I’d just send my motor to you and be done with it.
 
The only thing I remember about the seals is they are off a common ford pushrod V6. In our part of the world that means a Cologne or Vulcan family V6. We don't use the Essex that you may have gotten down there.
 
those ford seal fit the outside of the Toyota guide better that the SBC seals, don't they?
 

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