Builds Bean! The Adventure Continues (1987 FJ60) (6 Viewers)

[Bullzi]

The downside to having new paint from Kelly is you're going to be far more reluctant to say to yourself "hey, let's see where this overgrown trail used to go"

Before you put your winch back in best to have a look at your solenoid pack. All the signal leads on my Warn M12k on the 100 had basically dissolved and I only discovered it when the winch was needed. I replaced it with a solid state contactor pack a couple years ago.

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Deep down I know that will be the case, but I keep telling myself I won’t be like that!

Good tip on the solenoid, thanks. I took a look at mine when I had it all apart and it seemed to be in good shape still.

 

[kelly saad]

Overgrown trails?? New paint?? Whatever

 

[Bullzi]

Overgrown trails?? New paint?? Whatever

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Easy for you to say

 

[TheNeek]

Overgrown trails?? New paint?? Whatever

"Arizona pinstripes"

 

[Bullzi]

Been working on lots of odds and ends for when the Bean comes back...the plan is to hopefully have it back in time for SAS5. That means I need everything ready to just bolt back on and go. I’ll have a few weeks at best to get it all done

This weekend I painted my sliders - they had been sitting in primer since getting blasted for a month or so. I wanted to use an industrial paint, but in the end just went with the Rustoleum professional gloss black. This stuff has been good in the past and is super easy to find at the store for touching up. I have noticed that it takes a lot longer than 48 hrs to achieve full hardness. When I did my leaf pack, it took at least a week!

Happy 4th Everyone!

 

[drwright68]

Been working on lots of odds and ends for when the Bean comes back...the plan is to hopefully have it back in time for SAS5. That means I need everything ready to just bolt back on and go. I’ll have a few weeks at best to get it all done

This weekend I painted my sliders - they had been sitting in primer since getting blasted for a month or so. I wanted to use an industrial paint, but in the end just went with the Rustoleum professional gloss black. This stuff has been good in the past and is super easy to find at the store for touching up. I have noticed that it takes a lot longer than 48 hrs to achieve full hardness. When I did my leaf pack, it took at least a week!

Happy 4th Everyone!

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Are those white knuckle? They look seriously beefy. Upon our boxes...plumber? Lol

 

[Bullzi]

Yes and yes.
My brother is actually the plumber, but I dabble in it when he gets real busy and he needs an extra hand.

 

[drwright68]

Yes and yes.
My brother is actually the plumber, but I dabble in it when he gets real busy and he needs an extra hand.

Waiting on mine to be delivered from them. I am happy that I didn't get the plating on the top now. They look amazing. I cant wait! Lol Uponor boxes gave it away. I am commercial plumber here. Don't really ever touch the pex lol.

 

[Bullzi]

It's been a few weeks since my last update...I've been slowly, but consistently working on the Bean's random odds and ends so I can put it back together quickly when I get it back (which should be in a few weeks!).
Mostly its been a lot of cleaning parts and sorting wiring. I did try to channel my inner @kelly saad and clean up my Tuffy center console a bit. It had a bunch of large dents and scratches from when someone tried to break-in with a crowbar (under the previous ownership). I sanded these down and added some filler....sanded and filled 3 or 4 times, then shot it with some trim black paint from SEM (great stuff). I think it looks pretty good. Much better than before.

I forgot to take before pictures...

The padded arm rest of the console was ripped pretty badly, so I have a new one coming from Tuffy. Side note - their customer service is top notch and they sell all the replacement parts for their consoles even if they aren't listed on the website.

I also snagged up one of those Hopkins trailer harnesses that work for the FJ60 without having to install wire taps into the factory harness (Part number: 43315). You do have to re-pin a few of the terminals for it to work, but that is easy and there is a great thread on that.

When I re-pinned mine, I noticed that the quality of a few of the terminal crimps was lousy. I ended up re-terminating these.

Next I cut the harness to a better length and added pig-tails for my backup camera/mirror reverse trigger wire and third brake light that I will be installing. It should be a pretty clean setup when installed. I'll finally be able to get rid of the splice into the factory harness as well! The green wire will get loom once I run it from the driver side to the passenger side through the grommets.

Last and most important update - @kelly saad has been working super hard finishing up the Bean. He sprayed color yesterday and it looks sooooo good!!
Here's a taste, but check out Kelly's thread for more details and pictures! Can't wait to get it back!

 

[nomadsurfer]

B-pillar handles:

Super easy install and these are the most useful handle ever! I never knew what a pain it was to get into the back seat until I installed these! The holes/nuts are already installed under the head liner, you just have to find them with a needle and punch them out.

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Did these handles come with the screw? guessing no. what screw did you use and where did you source it? thanks

 

[Bullzi]

Did these handles come with the screw? guessing no. what screw did you use and where did you source it? thanks

No unfortunately they didn’t. I ordered what I thought was the correct OEM one after looking at the parts diagram, but it was too short. I went to the local hardware store and found one the correct length. I was able to find one that had a similar looking head as the OEM one.

 

[TheNeek]

The harnessing is top notch. I'll need to pick your brain on materials to purchase when I get into my rats nest.

 

[Bullzi]

The harnessing is top notch. I'll need to pick your brain on materials to purchase when I get into my rats nest.

Thanks!
Yes, please do. I have been really enjoying the electrical side of things and it makes it so much more enjoyable when you are using the correct materials for the job!

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Pls share source of connectors and other wiring stuff you use. Would like to adopt similar

 

[Bullzi]

The new armrest pad for my Tuffy console came in yesterday and I was finally able to wrap up the console refresh project.

The new armrest material is a little less glossy than the old (which I actually think looks much better).

I also added my HAM radio to the underside of the console. I think I’ll probably have to get an external speaker now, but time will tell.

I kept the fire extinguisher on the back of the console. I installed it when we got the Bean and I think it’s really good to have an extinguisher handy!

 

[Bullzi]

Its been almost two months since my last update - not sure what happened, just got busy I guess. I've been working on a bunch of Bean projects...I got caught up in the 'while your in there' rabbit-hole and now I'm never going to get the truck back together !

I got the truck back from Kelly about a month ago. It took a while to find a transport driver, but @Riverrunner came through again and found a driver for me. Thanks again Aaron, your efforts are much appreciated!!

Here's a list of things I'm working on at the moment. I'll go into further detail on these in future posts -

- 80 Series Steering Box Rebuild
- Driver's Seat Heater Wiring
- Window Regulator Re-lube
- Door Locks and Hatches Re-lube
- Rear Electrical Panel Revision
- Front Inner Fender Refurbishment
- Lower Chrome window Trim Felt Replacement
- Wiper Linkage Re-grease and Cabin Air Intake Cleaning
- Inner Door Skin Rustproofing

Future Projects -
- Frame C Channel replacement
- Frame Paint Touch-up (There are a few areas where the Chassis Saver peeled off - I probably didn't sand it well enough)
- Creating Hatch in the cargo area for in-tank fuel pump servicing
- AC System Overhaul
- A bunch of Re-wiring
- Putting it all back together again!

So there's the list as it stands right now, but I'm sure there are things that I forgot to mention.

Back safe and sound!

 

[Riverrunner]

Lookin good!

 

[Bullzi]

FZJ80 Steering Box Rebuild -

First off, let me say that this is a project that anyone can do. It takes a little time, but its not super hard. There are a few steps (detailed below) that do take some finesse, but if you are attentive and take your time, its very doable.

There are a few threads on this topic, so I'm not going to go step by step, but here are a few pictures and part numbers -

I used OEM Parts. You do not need all of these parts, but I would say you should purchase the parts that I made bold font.
FZJ80 Gasket kit: 04445-60050 - $110 from Megazip (people have also had good luck with the Gates kit)
Power Piston Plunger Guide Nut: 44154-30020 - $5
Power Piston Plunger Guide: 44153-30020 - $3
Power Piston Plunger: 44152-30020 - $3
Power Piston Plunger Spring: 90501-20095 - $2
Union Seat (x2): 90410-06005 - $3 EA
Extra Teflon Ring for Power Piston: 90562-77002 - $2
Extra O-Ring for Power Piston: 90301-73002 - $4
Top Nut (If needed): 90170-10208 - $1

I did not end up needing the union seats, plunger, plunger guide or spring. I had read on other threads that they were good to have on hand, so I bought them and installed them, but the old ones were in good shape. The power piston plunger nut was in pretty poor shape after it was removed, so that was needed. I also ruined the teflon ring that goes onto the Power Piston on my first installation attempt, so it was nice to be able to order an extra (separate from the kit) for a couple of bucks. Installing the power piston without hurting this teflon ring is the hardest part of the rebuild in my opinion, so having an extra or two on hand takes a little pressure off!

Re-seal Kit Components:

Extra Teflon Rings, O-Ring and Union Seats:

The hardest part of this project was getting the pitman arm off. I after a bunch of attempts with a puller that I made from scratch with some 1/4" plate, I finally just went out and bought one from Napa. I used the double hammer trick and let the puller sit with tension on if for a few hours and it finally popped off. Here's the procedure that worked for me:
- Spray penetrating oil on the pitman arm splines.
- Install puller and tighten as much as possible without breaking puller.
- Get two large hammers and hit the pitman arm with the hammers simultaneously a few times right at the splines.
- Tighten the puller some more and let it sit for about an hour. You can also spray more penetrate.
Mine finally came loose after 3 or 4 rounds if this. I think if you had a really quality puller like the Snapon one, you could put a lot more pressure on it, but my puller was the cheap auto-parts one that will break if tightened too much.

Disassembly is really simple. Take off the top cover and pull the sector shaft. Then take out the side cover and pull out the power piston. Be really careful not to loose any of the small steel balls. I think there are 44 total.

Top Cover:

Side Cover off - you can see all the ball bearings in the power piston:

Power Piston Removed:

Components cleaned up for seal replacement and reassembly:

Continued in next post --------->>

 

[Bullzi]

-------->> Continued from Post #118

Once all components are clean just follow the reseal and assembly procedure highlighted in the FSM or the forum here on MUD. There are excellent pictures. Be sure to use plenty of clean ATF when reassembling! There are a few sneaky o-rings hiding under teflon seals, so make sure to replace them all!

I found that my box had actually been re-sealed at some point because I found existing match marks on the preload nut for the valve body.

I found the perfect pin wrench from an old grinder to loosen the preload nut...I hear Harbor Freight has an adjustable pin wrench for cheap if you cant find something in your stash of tools.

The valve body that connects to the input shaft has 4 teflon rings that do not come in the rebuild kit. I think Toyota considers this entire component non-serviceable, so it doesn't look like they make replacement seals for it. It may not even be necessary to take apart, but there are two o-rings and one teflon seal on/inside the preload nut (the part that requires the pin wrench) that come in the kit and are good to replace.

There are a few procedures that I want to highlight here, since they are the ones I think have the most potential for trouble.
First is getting all 44 little ball bearings into the power piston (unfortunately I didn't take pictures). I found it easiest to use a little grease on the u-shaped clamp-ends that the balls go into to hold the balls in place (this is common).

Now, as for getting the balls into the power piston ,here is what I did:
- Insert the worm gear (side cover assembly) into the power piston.
- Feed a few balls into the power piston from the hole that is more central to the power piston until its full (5 or 6 balls).
- Use the power piston plunger to push the balls into the hole while gently spinning the worm gear back and forth. Try not to spin the worm gear out of the power piston more than a turn. (DON'T FORCE ANYTHING).
- When the balls go into the power piston, reload and repeat until all the balls are in. They will want to start coming out the other hole, so you may need to use your finger to cover it.
- Snap the u-shaped retainer full of balls held in by grease into the two holes and screw it down.
This method worked really well for me and I was able to get all the balls back in place in less than 2 minutes. Sorry for the lack of pictures!

The other part that was slightly tricky was getting the power piston back into the steering box housing without nicking or cutting it. On my first attempt, I was being careless and I rammed the power piston back into the housing and cut the teflon ring. I had to buy a new one and luckily Toyota sells it separately. The part number is in the previous post.

The reason the power piston is hard to get into the housing is because there is an o-ring under the teflon ring that pushes it out. There is a sharp lip inside the steering box housing that the teflon ring can get caught on. Some people have filed or sanded the sharpness out of this lip and I would maybe give that a try if I ever needed to do this again. I tried using the hose clamp trick to compress the o-ring and teflon ring, but I didn't find it to be that helpful...

What ended up working was using a plastic tool for removing interior trim pieces to press down on the teflon ring as it passed under the lip of the housing at the corners. The arrows in the picture below show the areas where the teflon ring likes to get snagged and cut.

Plastic tool pushing on the teflon ring to get it past the snag points.

If you use this method or soften the sharp edge with something, its not too bad at all. If you do take the edge down, make sure to clean all debris out before assembly (including in the bearings that are left in place during the re-seal).

The rest is pretty simple. I created my own "SST" for setting the preload with a beam-style in-lbs torque wrench. I took a 16mm 12pt socket and ground out the inside just a bit until it fit snug over the splines of the input shaft. Then I set the preload of the top nut so the force to spin the input was around 9in-lbs. The FSM calls for 6.5-9.6in-lbs.

I am pretty happy with how the box turned out. There is a little play in the input shaft at the center of its range. The play goes away as you turn the shaft about 1/2 rotation to the left or right. The box was this way before the re-seal and I had hopes that it would improve the issue. I think the mating surface on the power piston and/or the sector shaft may be worn down. This box had about 150k on it when I purchased it.

I also have a re-seal kit for the 60 series box that is leaking terribly out of the input seal, so I'll be rebuilding that one in the future when I get around to installing the FZJ80 box.
1987 FJ60 Reseal part numbers:
Reseal kit: 04445-60030
Extra Teflon ring for the power piston (just in case): 90562-67002
Teflon Ring for the steering worm (I have heard reports that the full kit does not come with these, but have not checked): 90562-48001 (2 needed)


I have more pictures and info if anyone would like additional details.

 

[Bullzi]

I finally got around to wiring the seat heater on the driver's seat since it was in the truck when I sent it off. The procedure was mostly the same as the passenger side but the driver's side has a different control module that incorporates the memory function, seat heaters and motors (and maybe other stuff).

Seat Heater Plugs - wire colors match the passenger seat.

I used the same wiring scheme as the passenger seat for the heaters, but the driver's seat requires the addition of a switch to bypass the seat motor memory function. This switch has nothing to do with the seat heater operation. Basically, the seat motors will stop working if the module has power to it for more than around 30 seconds. The switch allows you to only put power to the module when you want to adjust your seat. You you have to flip the switch and then adjust your seat and then flip the switch back off. I think there are ways around this, but they are complicated and flipping a switch to adjust your seat really isn't a big deal.

Here's a picture of the switch - its wired in-line with the main power to the motors. It has an LED so I can tell when if I have left it on:

Below are a few pictures of the final wiring and relay location. I think everything looks nice and neat. This is much improved from the way it was. Just like the passenger side, there is only one electrical connector for all the seat functions (including the heater).