anyone ever build a sound proof room..... (1 Viewer)

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i never have! but have worked on an tennant improvemnt project, where the owner wanted the bath room sound proofed. this was a large warehouse that we were building two flloors of offices at one end. the construction of the "sound proofed" walls were as follow.....from inside(bathroom) to outside (a hall way)- dry wall nailed to the inside of a wood framed wall(maybe it was screwed-whatever)...then 3" thick, mineral insulation in battons "LIGHTLY" placed between the studs of the two framed walls cross ways to the studs(no insulation wedged verticaly as you might assume..and no drywall inside)...then the framing for the outter wall and finally drywall faceing the hall. there had to be NO braceing,pipes, electrical conduits, etc. tieing the two framed walls to each other.(exception was the existing floor and the overhead. this allowed one wall to vibrate, but no vibrations were transmitted to the second. years later i saw the same basic construction on an condo project..the sound proofing was in the common walls between two tennants. only this time there was no insulation between the two metal studded walls.- take from this what you will
 
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:hmm: thought about that, and then also gluing egg-crate foam to the inside wall, and ceiling. also i would put a motorized louver system in so that it could cool properly.
 
I've done a few soundproofed rooms for other applications - some of them being pretty high dollar projects. All depends on how much you want to pay.

A fairly cheap solution is to use a layer of Homasote against the studs before you put drywall over top of it. There are installation directions for walls and ceilings on that page.
 
5/8 sheet rock,then a insulating strip on 16 inch centers, then another layer of sheetrock. Almost forgot we insulated with blanket insulation before the rock. MIke
 
I've done a few soundproofed rooms for other applications - some of them being pretty high dollar projects. All depends on how much you want to pay.

A fairly cheap solution is to use a layer of Homasote against the studs before you put drywall over top of it. There are installation directions for walls and ceilings on that page.

thank you very much, that link is bookmarked!
 
the old time solution on boats was to line the engine box with lead- it's still hard to beat this approach, cept that it costs.! these days there are other sound insulation approches...take a look at the products available for marine engine rooms/boxes
 
i never have! but have worked on an tennant improvemnt project, where the owner wanted the bath room sound proofed. this was a large warehouse that we were building two flloors of offices at one end. the construction of the "sound proofed" walls were as follow.....from inside(bathroom) to outside (a hall way)- dry wall nailed to the inside of a wood framed wall(maybe it was screwed-whatever)...then 3" thick, mineral insulation in battons "LIGHTLY" placed between the studs of the two framed walls cross ways to the studs(no insulation wedged verticaly as you might assume..and no drywall inside)...then the framing for the outter wall and finally drywall faceing the hall. there had to be NO braceing,pipes, electrical conduits, etc. tieing the two framed walls to each other.(exception was the existing floor and the overhead. this allowed one wall to vibrate, but no vibrations were transmitted to the second. years later i saw the same basic construction on an condo project..the sound proofing was in the common walls between two tennants. only this time there was no insulation between the two metal studded walls.- take from this what you will

"sounds" like the tennant did not want anyone to hear him fart.
 
it's code all 100 some condo units were built to it. i'm not sure what the motovation was for the first project- the powers that be don't explain what they're thinking about and frankly since they are paying... i don't care.
 
years later i saw the same basic construction on an condo project..the sound proofing was in the common walls between two tennants. only this time there was no insulation between the two metal studded walls.- take from this what you will

In that situation, it's called a party wall. Works great for limiting sound between units, but typically, the primary purpose is for fire protection (which is why they extend into the attic space).


The only experience I've had with soundproofing is with resilient channel, as described here:

SOUNDPROOFING WALLS ceilings USING RESILIENT CHANNEL | Super Soundproofing

As stated, it has limited effectiveness, but might help in conjunction with insulation and other methods.
 
i am sure i still will hear it but not like it is just sitting right in your garage, my thought is to get it to where i can still have a conversation without yelling. right now it is in my garage, and when it kicks on we have to turn the tv up in the house, the garage is connected to the house, when i move it up to my shop, i want to hear the radio while i am working on my truck. so if i can still hear it a bit that is fine.
 
Do you have a real compressor that holds oil, or one of the SUPER OBNOXIOUS oil-less???
My 80gal 2 stage isnt that bad in my shop...would be nice to quiet it down a lil but I would worry about restricting air flow...the fan moves a lot of air!
 
i have an 80 gallon 2stage, and yes it takes oil, i am planing on a motorized louver to the outside for air flow. and if it kicks on while you are in the garage, you can not have a conversation.
 
i have an 80 gallon 2stage, and yes it takes oil, i am planing on a motorized louver to the outside for air flow. and if it kicks on while you are in the garage, you can not have a conversation.

That sounds like a bit of overkill. Use a dryer vent pipe to the outside and put the louvered cover on the inside (so it pulls open as air goes into the room) and a screen/rain cover of some sort on the outside.

Edit: Sorry, I just reread the thread. You apparently aren't using it to allow air in but rather to provide cooling. I guess that's a bit different. Maybe a roof jack vent with a non-motorized turbine top would be enough?

Regarding the soundproofing, I think your best bet is a double studded wall with a small air gap in between.
 
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Air compressor intake Muffler - YouTube

Have you looked into building an intake muffler for your compressor? If you want sound-proof, this may not fit the bill. If you want a slight noise reduction, check out the video.

I have also seen youtube videos of people who have routed their compressor intakes outside the wall and other people who have made a simple plywood box with ventilation slits and egg-crate foam glued to the inside.

I am sure some combination of the above will be cheap, easy, and effective. The compressor won't be silent, but will probably be tolerable.

Every shop I ever worked at had the compressor installed outside the building under a lean-to shed.
 
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I've helped on a project to build a compressor room on a commercial building. We built a steel frame on the outside wall then bolted on R-panals (plywood foam sandwich). Had a bit door to the outside. Insulated pretty well and the compressor sat on a slab outside the building so it was pretty quiet. If you can put it outside in its own little area, that's the best IMO.

In my dad's welding shop, he has 16' ceiling, so in one corner they built a 2nd floor balcony room inside. Same thing, R-panal walls, floor is above the bathroom below, and just regular framing and insulated. Compressor sits upstairs. Not silent, but very quiet. You really never hear it run.
 

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