Any tips to remove front diff drain plug? (1 Viewer)

[jafo9]

Hi all. I'm trying to get the drain plug off my front diff of my LX570. The rear fill/drain came off no problem. The front fill loosened no problem. The front drain is stuck. I'm using a 3/8" 10mm hex socket. I've used 3 different breaker bars and no luck. Does any one have any tricks? The car is jacked up and the tires are off. If I had a lift, I could probably get a bit more leverage. Thanks.

 

[Atwalz]

Try spraying some WD-40. You would need a long breaker bar to get that out. Be careful not to let it slip. I assume you know lefty looses (counter clockwise) and righty tight (clockwise).

 

[AdamKFarmer]

no WD-40, buy some real stuff, like PB blaster or Kroil

 

[hankinid]

Kroil overnight for a day or 2.

Then, 1/2" breaker bar with adapter for the 3/8" socket. Get the truck higher if necessary, and make sure your jack stands and any extra blocking are rock solid. I've laid on my back and used a foot to move the bar the first time I changed the front diff oil in 's LX. I stick a dab of Never-Sieze on the diff's and trans case plugs...no further issues.

You could also try a hammer (dead-blow is good) and a short attachment, like a t-bar or L-handle on the socket.

 

[electro992]

Just did this last weekend. My problem was the fill bolt but the same strategy should work. With the front wheel off, I used a u-joint and a few long extensions to bring the breaker bar out to the side of the car. Then you can get a bunch of leverage from standing up, adding a cheater, etc. I braced the extensions on a hard point (think it was the bump stop) while applying force.

 

[jafo9]

no luck so far. soaked in pb blaster all night. built a super long extension to a 3 ft breaker bar. all it did was snap the u-joint. used a smaller breaker bar under the car and braced myself against the frame and all i did was partially round out the female portion of the hex. now its about 40% rounded. I'm not sure what else i can do at this point. any thoughts on changing the fluid by sucking out the oil from the top. i have a 4L vacuum pump i use to change the oil on my boat. it has a semi-rigid tube that goes down the dip stick tube. i know i can't get all the diff oil, but it may be better than nothing.

 

[hankinid]

Going back a couple of years and iirc, somebody here had the same issue. He had a mechanic put it on a lift and drill the plug for an extractor. Guy who posted had some difficulty finding the right tap to clean up the hole once the plug came out.

 

[LCHardriver_02]

Dang! Why is this so bloody hard? I have not tried on mine, but holy moly! A 3 foot breaker bar? Dang!

 

[ton504]

Hi all. I'm trying to get the drain plug off my front diff of my LX570. The rear fill/drain came off no problem. The front fill loosened no problem. The front drain is stuck. I'm using a 3/8" 10mm hex socket. I've used 3 different breaker bars and no luck. Does any one have any tricks? The car is jacked up and the tires are off. If I had a lift, I could probably get a bit more leverage. Thanks.

I use the two hammer method. I place a brass hammer on the drain and smack it with another hammer.

 

[2001LC]

This two "harmer method ". Is this hit on drain plug in attempt to shock loose?

Anyone try heating?

Any other suggestion other than pump out?

________________________________

Here is what I've observed, done and believe.

I recently found one front diff drain plug wrapped. Appearntly Lexus Dealer mechaince smacked it good. My thought at the time was, a road hazard hit it causing the bend/warp. That warp made it very difficult to break loose and would leak if not replaced or over torqued back in. But now working on another front diff flush, that has factory installed bolt (virgin), I see it was intentional "smack" to help break loose.

I had a new 10mm hex socket w/3/8" drive adapted up to 3/4 breaker bar (big boy as I like to call him). After soaking overnight with seafoam penetrating oil. I tap in the 10mm hex, place bottle jack under socket to aid in bracing along with holding socket adapters with hand to keep hex socket tool as square to bolt as possible. I felt flex or movement which may have just been bolts allen socket stripping. At this point I called my local parts guy to ask if a TSB on this, nope. But he has another bolt in stock. If in stock, that means they are seeing many of these bolts damaged.

I'd rather get plug out, but don't want to damage any more. This is a rust free rig very clean, so this should not be happening. The issue is more than the small 10mm allen port. This is a case of Toyota engineers using metals together they should not have and not hard enough plug.

Last thing I want to do is drill it out and risk damaging case. Or crack case pounding on drain plug (bolt).

 

[coleAK]

I’m having the same issue sort of... just finished all the fluid changes for 60k: AHC, breaks, trans, oil, diffs, t case.

My local Lexus dealer did the diffs at 30k and when I got it up on the lift looks like they hammered a torx (star) bit into the 10mm hex hole on the lower drain plug. Just the lower one, upper looks good. I ordered a new lower drain plug and I’m not going to try and get the old one out before the new one gets here. I was thinking about hammering a 10mm back in the hole but really don’t want to strip it out. Any suggestions?

 

[KLF]

Not the optimal solution, but if the internal 10mm hex gets stripped out, the best option then is to hammer in a short M10 bolt, then tack weld it to the plug. This will give you a 14mm head to put a socket on, and the heat will break it loose.

 

[2001LC]

Thanks, but got tired of messing with it.

Toyota engineeries did one thing right with this plug, although I think serendipitously, in giving us a lip accessible to a chisel and hammer.

Started notched with 5lb hammer & chisel, then tap (100 times) into submission with 1lb hammer & cold chisel. Notice black match mark I made, which helped me to know when movement starts.

3 minutes later

 

[Volunteer]

X2 on what @KLF said I'd try welding the socket or bolt to the drain plug. I like the Marlin plugs better anyway and he also sells the tap as FYI.

 

[2001LC]

Now if someone could post up the parts number for the Toyota replacement with large nut head as opposed to 10mm hex head???
I have the Lexus PN # 90341-24016 but rather go to my guy at Toyota.

 

[coleAK]

The Toyota plug is the same one.

 

[grinchy]

I picked up two of the Lexus PN # 90341-24016. The bottom is still seized, I went the LH tap and LH bolt method to remove, but haven't made time to do it yet. I did cold chisel for a while, but I lacked @2001LC conviction, I didn't want to break anything . . .

When I get around to this I plan to replace the fill and drain with the Lexus part.

Don't forget to get new crush washers as well.

 

[2001LC]

Good advise on the washer/gasket I keep bags of all other around. This is only odd ball needed when doing oil, transfer or either differenial in 100 or 200 series.

Acording to @beno there is a Toyota PN # with bolt head like the lexus PN, but he's not sharing in thread he mentioned it in.
Front differential drain plug

I was hoping someone would share the Toyota equivalent of the one you see here.
I found some pictures: Apparently Lexus has a PN #90341-24016 with nut head

I did an 08LX last week and it was not this one above but one you see below with 10mm hex .

Here are the Toyota LC PN # I've seen with 10mm hex (allen socket) ,Bought one last week, not knowing the issue or alternative... Learning!

I paid $8.50 for this one locally.

I'd like to pickup at Toyota, but I could go for some of those good cookies and a Latte at Lexus I suppose.

 

[grinchy]

the LX part is not an LX570 part. It's from another Lexus. As far as I recall it was first mentioned as an option by @bjowett. I don't think there is a Toyota analogue. Go have a cookie. and yep, they're $10 or so a piece.

 

[bjowett]

The 24016 is installed on various AWD Lexus cars is the USA. Some Japanese market Toyota cars also utilize it.