another V8 questions (1 Viewer)

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For those of you running V8's preferrably chevy 350, using the stock radiator. Looking into faq's i saw that they give part #'s of gates hoses for use with chevy water pump and toyota radiator. For those running this setup are there any problems cooling wise? Thanks in advance
 
I have never had problems with cooling a V-8 with the stock radiator.

Cooling the Toyota motor with a stock radiator, that was a whole different story.................I was always overheating.
 
I do have problems with overheating when the temps outside reach around 80 to 85 degrees. I have a Summit electric puller fan, but down the road I'll be picking up a fan that pulls more cfm and hopefully that will eliminate my problem. 70 degree days don't seem to cause problems with normal driving habits (less than 45 mph).
 
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=52657

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=31450

I have a CCoT 4 core with flexlite fan and custom shroud. It only runs hot if it's over 80F outside, on the highway, sitting in traffic, pulling a load....heck, that's all the time. GM crossflow planned for several years now. One of these days I might get to it.

I define too hot as 235F or + on a quality gauge. The stock C/H gauge is only slightly more usefull than an idiot light.
 
I have to get a new one so i am up in the air between new 4 core CCofT toyota one or go with a aftermarket. Just wanted some opinions as to any problems encountered either way.
 
do some searching this is talked about all the time, mines hits 210, 215, all the time while driving, no biggie, it gets hot but been like that for 7+ years no worries
 
Stock 79' rad, 400 smallblock. The 400s run notoriously hot and I dont have a problem. Im actually gonna change my fan out to a Taurus electric, but I dont run over 210 with the flexfan and no shroud.

hodag
 
southerncruiser62 said:
I have to get a new one so i am up in the air between new 4 core CCofT toyota one or go with a aftermarket. Just wanted some opinions as to any problems encountered either way.

DON'T DO IT!!! I replaced my worn out leaking 4 core radiator with a CCOT and the cooling power is worse. I'm going to have my brand new radiator re-cored next spring.

Scot
 
mine is like dgangle,if its runnin,its runnin hot.part of the problem is no shroud and a warn upright behind a pushbar i made.truck was medium ok until i added the bar.seems to disrupt my airflow to the rad.hot for me is anything over 210.i am using a stock gm clutch fan-5 blade i think.this winter will build a proper shroud.
 
Corbet has one of the two keys

"HIGH FLOW WATER PUMP"........I went with a "Howe Cool" 2 core Oval Track rad and A high flow pump,a tranny cooler in front,a shroud cover 75% of the fan and never ever went over 190.the 2 core is the key. I ran this setup in every V8 Yota i've owned and always had success. The first swap i did......i had the toyo rad boiled out ,no success,then bumped up to a 7 core in the toyo,even worse.Went to an electric fan,ran full time all the time,got pissed threw it away. Then thought about what type of vechicle would be similar to deep woods conditions,(Not enough volume of air through radiator,temperatures that can spike up to 225 in less than a minute) and called the Howe Cool Radiator company. Explained my trials and errors of attempting to keep motor cool and took his suggestions;

2-Core All Alum Howe Cool Oval Track Racing Rad. and a High flow Water Pump,an RV flex fan and a custom built shroud where the fan is recessed into the shroud 75 %,leaving 25% of the fan outside the shroud. If you want a no-nonsense reliable set up i suggest you do the same and you'll never monitor your temp gauge like i KNOW your doing now. Good luck and let us know how you made out.

http://www.howeracing.com/Radiators/Index-Radiators-CrossflowChevy.htm
 
I can't argue your success against overheating. I had talked to a friend about putting on a high flow water pump, and he advised me against this. Reason being, that the high flow water pump would be pumping the water through the radiator too fast to actually be able to cool the water. That is why he advised me to go with a higher cfm electric fan than what I am currently using. Have to wonder if using the higher cfm fan and a high flow water pump would help out even more. Any thoughts on this?
 
kruzinboots said:
I can't argue your success against overheating. I had talked to a friend about putting on a high flow water pump, and he advised me against this. Reason being, that the high flow water pump would be pumping the water through the radiator too fast to actually be able to cool the water. That is why he advised me to go with a higher cfm electric fan than what I am currently using. Have to wonder if using the higher cfm fan and a high flow water pump would help out even more. Any thoughts on this?


regardless of the cfm,the thermostat will only open at 180 degrees...period. So the cfm flow is pertaining to the "exchange" of coolant throughout the journals and into the rad.
 
kruzinboots said:
I can't argue your success against overheating. I had talked to a friend about putting on a high flow water pump, and he advised me against this. Reason being, that the high flow water pump would be pumping the water through the radiator too fast to actually be able to cool the water. That is why he advised me to go with a higher cfm electric fan than what I am currently using. Have to wonder if using the higher cfm fan and a high flow water pump would help out even more. Any thoughts on this?
\

High flow is superior. All things equal, the motor that makes more power will make more heat. Radiator's have cooling limits. For some the stock size works. For some it is iffy at best.

High airflow + high coolant flow = good.

This high coolant flow is easily tested, if you have a decent temp guage, not stock. Just get the motor hot, hold at 800 rpm, check guage, next bring rpm's up (will increase coolant flow)- watch temp guage.
 
Just got my Volvo electric fan with the stock rad hooked up. Have a perma cool temp sensor. Thus far the fan comes on about 195 almost immediately the temp drops to about 170. I idled it the other day about 40 minutes with it being 85 out and it stayed between the two extremes.
 
If you live in a cool climate you can get away with the stock radiator. The only way you will fix this problem correctly the first time is install a larger radiator. Even a recored 4 row will overheat on the highway above 60. There just isn't enough surface area for cooling.
 
stock rad, fan clutch, keeps my s*** cool!
 

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