Builds Another Prado in Montana (5 Viewers)

[AirheadNut]

Well, here goes again! After selling my G-Wagon, I wanted something that was better suited to a daily driver, and something that got better than 15mpg on the highway...

So, I bought another Prado:

This one is a 1991 SX5 with an R150f 5-speed manual. It is absolutely bone stock, with a whopping 107k km on the clock. Factory electric winch (as far as I could tell it had never been used till I got it), and an original cylinder head.

So far I have put about 2000km on it in my week and a half of ownership, and have averaged about 21mpg (11.2 l/100km). It doesn't seem to consume any coolant, but it does use some oil. The only problem it has right now is a tendency to die at idle unless at full operating temperature. It does pretty well off road, but could use more oomph down low.

Here it is getting to use the winch for the first time to pull out a stuck HDJ81.

 

[JimmyPrado]

Welcome back to the LJ lounge!

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Great looking Prado! Glad you are back into one. Looking forward to seeing what you do with it. Having the manual trans and a winch is a huge plus!

You might want to preventatively replace that cylinder head if it is the original. It is just a matter of time otherwise.... Toyota improved the design a lot on the second generation heads. I was recently talking to the owner of an import parts place here in Canada (Rocky Mountain Imports). He said when the Prado's and Surf's first came to Canada he was ordering pallets of new cylinder heads from Japan! The vehicles coming over had typical JDM import mileage on them. He said he has not had a single repeat customer. Many of these trucks are in the high 200,000kms-300,000kms now. So the later heads have definitely proven themselves, as they have lasted at least 2-3 times as long as the original heads. A lot of people don't know it, but the early 2LTE and early 3L head both sucked. Both got upgraded part numbers, and those are the improved heads. Personally I preventatively installed the later 2LTE head. Cost more than the later 3L head, but I assumed there was a reason. The later 2LTE head is part number 11101-54121.

With regard to the oil usage, don't assume it's rings or valve seals. More likely it's a clogged filter in the crank case ventilation baffle system in the valve cover. This causes large amounts of oil to be blown out the PCV into the intake. If your turbo and intake piping are oily, it's a tell tale sign. Take your valve cover off and you'll see underneath the crank case ventilation outlet is a baffle cover with six screws. Remove this (it's tough, because it is siliconed on). Underneath you'll see a little ceramic filter that you can pull out. Very likely it's totally clogged with oil gunk. Soak it in varsol or gas and brush it until it's clean, white and you can see through it. Clean the valve cover and all the old silicone. Re-apply new silicone as you put it back together. Could also be your turbo is worn of course. Check the turbo for side/side and end/end play.

The stalling issue is strange. I'd say check the ECU to make sure the capacitors are ok. Hopefully there is not a problem with the spill control valve on the injection pump. Make sure there are no air/diesel leaks. And I'd recommend pulling the EGR system off and removing the butterfly valves from the venturi. I think you did this on your old Prado?

If you find the power low, you could intercool it and turn up the fuel. Makes an immense difference in power in my experience. Literally 50hp more to the wheels can be had.

Want it to look and wheel like your G-Wagen? Take a look here at what the Russians do to Prados: Toyota Land Cruiser Prado 70-series. Мнение реальных владельцев на DRIVE2.RU

Anyhow, have fun with it.

 

[AirheadNut]

Thanks for all of the info! However, I plan to take care of reliability, power, and efficiency all in one action: a couple of days ago I bought a running, tuned VW TDI engine that is going to take the place of the 2L-TE. The wiring harness has been reworked to allow standalone operation, and in the Golf it came out of the engine was putting out 128 whp and 235 lb-ft. I am expecting mileage to be somewhere in the low 30's mpg.

I am currently considering swapping to a Jeep AX15 bell housing (from what I can tell it should bolt up to the R150f) and using this adapter kit: TDI Conversion adapter kits to convert from gas to diesel

I realize this would require a Jeep flywheel and clutch, does anyone see any obvious problems with that? (other than the fact that it is a Jeep part! )

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thanks for all of the info! However, I plan to take care of reliability, power, and efficiency all in one action: a couple of days ago I bought a running, tuned VW TDI engine that is going to take the place of the 2L-TE. The wiring harness has been reworked to allow standalone operation, and in the Golf it came out of the engine was putting out 128 whp and 235 lb-ft. I am expecting mileage to be somewhere in the low 30's mpg.

I am currently considering swapping to a Jeep AX15 bell housing (from what I can tell it should bolt up to the R150f) and using this adapter kit: TDI Conversion adapter kits to convert from gas to diesel

I realize this would require a Jeep flywheel and clutch, does anyone see any obvious problems with that? (other than the fact that it is a Jeep part! )

Now that is cool! Can't wait to hear how this works out. I know a few guys who have thought about this swap. I know those engines can make impressive power, but can they make that power day in day out in a heavy truck? Will be nice to see someone actually do it.

 

[Whistler74]

I'm going to be watching this - looks like a great marriage about to happen. I'm sure you've seen the TDI swap into a jeep although I can't remember the outfit that did it.

Off topic, I spent a week in September mountain biking in Whitefish. Great place to visit and ride!

 

[Postoy]

Cool! Welcome back to the LJ world. I look forward to checking out your mods.

 

[decoco]

will be watching the owners plans of bastardizing a toyota; sounds exciting.

 

[AirheadNut]

Sorry for the long silence, I have been enjoying driving the new Prado too much to start taking it apart. (That and waiting for the weather to warm up so I don't have to work in the cold) I have gotten a couple of small things done. The rubber bump stop on the rear cargo door was missing, so I ordered it and two new side clearance lights from www.partsouq.com. I was really pleased by the speed of the transaction: I ordered on the 3rd, the parts shipped from Dubai on the 8th and were on my doorstep by noon on the 10th!

I also flushed the transmission fluid because the trans was making a racket in every gear. The flush didn't help, so I may be rebuilding that as well...Anyone have experience with a noisy R150f?

And just for kicks, here is the TDI waiting to be swapped in:

The engine has an EGR delete, immobilizer delete, a tune, and the wiring harness stripped down to the essentials. I have decided to order an adapter plate kit from ACME ADAPTERS Suzuki Samurai Turbo Diesel for a V6 4Runner or Pickup and mate it to a V6 bellhousing, which will bolt directly to my transmission.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Cool; I'm pretty excited for the VW swap!

Regarding your transmission noise, is it possible it's coming from the flywheel? If it's still the old dual mass, it could be seeing it's last days. I've been driving a Hilux with 2LT-II and R150F with a flywheel falling apart. It does weird stuff and makes weird noises to say the least. It's a known issue with these flywheels. Common fix is going to the LN106 solid mass flywheel. Course you won't have to worry about that with the VW motor?

 

[AirheadNut]

I hadn't thought of the flywheel, I'm sure it is still original. What sorts of sounds would one expect? My transmission makes a grinding noise when in gear and moving; all gears make noise, but 4th and 5th make the most. The adapter kit comes with a V6 flywheel that has been machined to bolt to the VW engine, so there is no problem there.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

I hadn't thought of the flywheel, I'm sure it is still original. What sorts of sounds would one expect? My transmission makes a grinding noise when in gear and moving; all gears make noise, but 4th and 5th make the most. The adapter kit comes with a V6 flywheel that has been machined to bolt to the VW engine, so there is no problem there.

Yeah, its not so much of a grinding noise. More of a broken metal (spring pieces) bouncing around in the flywheel noise. A tinny noise I guess. Was just an idea, but sounds like your issue is more likely bearing related....

I must ask, how do you like the manual compared to auto in the LJ78? I think you're the only person I know who has experience both.

 

[Nas90tdi]

Could also be seriously shot synchros. I have heard them cause some pretty terrible noise. How is the transition between gears. Smooth or a little slow and notchy?

Definitely looking forward to seeing the Tdi install. Those aren't bad little engines. Pain to change the timing belt in when they are actually in a VW. But, they get fantastic fuel mileage.

If you are like me you will miss your Gwagen sometimes, but overall be glad it's gone. I had a fantastic G320. But, everything I wanted to do to it was a pain. I think parts availability in the US has increased. But, when I had mine you could wait 3 months for a part to show up from Germany. And the dealership would look at you like you just pulled up in a spaceship if you went in. The G500's had only been out for a year or so back then and they had no clue what they were looking at.

I have a pretty bad car addiction, so understand the need to always be looking for that next odd vehicle.

 

[AirheadNut]

Yeah, its not so much of a grinding noise. More of a broken metal (spring pieces) bouncing around in the flywheel noise. A tinny noise I guess. Was just an idea, but sounds like your issue is more likely bearing related....

I must ask, how do you like the manual compared to auto in the LJ78? I think you're the only person I know who has experience both.

I'm beginning to think that a rebuild is probably the answer. I have heard that the R150f can be a noisy transmission, but I don't think that mine is a normal kind of noisy. The gear change can definitely be a bit notchy when cold, and sometimes it is difficult to get into first. At least the trans should be easy to get to pretty soon

I must say that apart from the noise I am really loving the manual. Even with a stock engine it makes the vehicle feel reasonably sprightly around town, and it is a lot of fun to drive. It can be a little difficult to control in low range, the engine seems to want to take off at about 2000 rpm and it can get really jerky, but I think that will be solved when I get my throttle knob fixed. Not having the extra heat and drag of an automatic is really nice for highway use, and I think it probably helps fuel mileage some, too.

 

[AirheadNut]

Big day! The adapter kit arrived from ACME Adapters, and it looks pretty nice! A V6 bell housing is on the way, so I should be able to test fit the engine/adapter/transmission interface pretty soon.

 

[AirheadNut]

During the past few days I have finally gotten to start tearing into this project. Day one involved removing the air cleaner and turbo intake pipe, battery, radiator and hoses, and unplugging the majority of the engine wiring.

Got the hood off today and struggled with bell housing bolts. Also disconnected the power steering lines and the exhaust.

I'm trying to decide if I should remove the engine/trans as one unit or just pull the engine; any thoughts from those that have pulled one before? It looks like the transmission might have to be supported if I pull just the engine.

 

[OGBeno]

Pull it all.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

During the past few days I have finally gotten to start tearing into this project. Day one involved removing the air cleaner and turbo intake pipe, battery, radiator and hoses, and unplugging the majority of the engine wiring.
View attachment 1643270

View attachment 1643271

View attachment 1643274

Got the hood off today and struggled with bell housing bolts. Also disconnected the power steering lines and the exhaust.

View attachment 1643276

I'm trying to decide if I should remove the engine/trans as one unit or just pull the engine; any thoughts from those that have pulled one before? It looks like the transmission might have to be supported if I pull just the engine.

I just pulled my LJ78 engine without the transmission, and I did not find it that hard. That said, I did have the engine fairly stripped down, so it was pretty easy to get at everything.

First I removed the bolts holding the flex plate to the torque converter (doesn't apply to you.) I supported the transmission with a jack and jack stand with some blocks. I removed the starter, and all the bell housing support brackets and bolts except for the outer most bolt on each side of the bell housing. Arguably the easiest ones to get at. Then I supported the engine with an engine lift. I removed those last two bolts in the bell housing. Then removed the two small bolt/nuts on each engine mount. Then pulled the engine forward a bit to disconnect the motor from the bell housing and torque converter. Finally lifted it out. With the lift I had the motor cleared everything just fine without having to lower the front of the vehicle. I did all this on my own with no assistance.

I did help a friend pull an LJ78 engine and auto trans with transfer case. He had the whole front of the truck stripped down though. I'd say it was way more work. But if you have to remove the transmission anyhow....

In my case, I removed the power steering pump from the bracket so that I would not have to disconnect the lines. I also did remove the radiator to give some more space. I had to unbolt the auto trans cooler lines from the side of the block too. And of course all wiring, coolant, exhaust etc.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Haha, just looking back at your photos I laughed at how pathetic the factory cooling fan on these engines is. And people wonder why they overheat.....

For those living with the 2LTE, take note, a bigger fan and a viscous hub service are two of the best things you can do to keep these things cool. Throw in a Tridon high flow thermostat too.

 

[Dprio34]

I only had the HF / Pittsburgh engine hoist. I had to separate engine from transmission to get mine out.
It barely cleared the front clip where the radiator mounts too (by 1 cm).
That was with PS pump removed as well.