Brand new slightly used LJ78 Prado 2LTE (1 Viewer)

[wetmiceslapper]

Hello, I appreciate yall accepting me. As thanks, I now will ask too many questions and get sad when I don't like any answers I get.

I recently bought this Prado with a half finished engine replacement. The engine came out of a '99 mrk ii. I have gotten most of the electrical connections sorted out and the belts put on how it makes sense to me.

What I am missing is this oil connection on the oil pump - alternator thingy, which i am not pleased to know exists. I do not know where these are supposed to go and I cannot seem to find any information.
Also there are a few electrical connections on the passenger side that I have not found a home for.

I am grateful for any assistance on these issues and all help will be rewarded with hand picked words of appreciation.

 

[LJRay]

Search your engine diagram on PartSouq, it’ll be there somewhere.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

What you are calling an oil pump is a vacuum pump on the alternator. You should definitely be pleased to have it as otherwise you would have rock hard brakes. There should be a high pressure oil feed line with banjo connectors from either the oil filter bracket or an oil gallery in the block, and a return hose feeding back into the side of the block.

The electrical connectors are for the glow plugs.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

There should be a high pressure oil feed line with banjo connectors from either the oil filter bracket or an oil gallery in the block, and a return hose feeding back into the side of the block.

There are 3 hoses, and this is the roadblock I am currently stopped at.
Hose 2 plugs into the oil filter bracket, as you called it.
3 is a connection that goes between the block just above the oil pan.
This leaves hose 1 with nowhere to go. The connection is much wider than hose 2. It has a diameter similar to the connector for 3, but that connection is a pipe in the block with no provisions to hold hose 1. The hose itself is about 10" long. I have removed and checked every bolt that could hold it within its reach. I have not seen any locations where it would fit on the turbo, AC compressor, exhaust manifold, power steering, oil pan, block.
You mentioned it affected the brakes. How does it do that? I don't see any way it could stretch to the brake booster or the brake system in general.
I feel I have looked everywhere within its reach. What am I missing?
I am lost trying to figure this out.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

The electrical connectors are for the glow plugs.

Thank you, this ties up the rest of the electrical on the intake side

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

There are 3 hoses, and this is the roadblock I am currently stopped at.
Hose 2 plugs into the oil filter bracket, as you called it.
3 is a connection that goes between the block just above the oil pan.
This leaves hose 1 with nowhere to go. The connection is much wider than hose 2. It has a diameter similar to the connector for 3, but that connection is a pipe in the block with no provisions to hold hose 1.

Not quite.

Hose 1 is the low pressure oil return which goes to the block

Hose 2 is the high pressure oil feed from oil filter bracket to vacuum pump.

3 is the vacuum connection. It should go to the brake booster, or a junction piece (way) connected to it.

You mentioned it affected the brakes. How does it do that? I don't see any way it could stretch to the brake booster or the brake system in general.
I feel I have looked everywhere within its reach. What am I missing?
I am lost trying to figure this out.

Look up vacuum assist for brakes. It has been standard on vehicles (diesel and petrol) for decades.

You have found the parts diagram for the vacuum pump. You need to look for the 'Brake Booster' diagram in the Powertrain/Chassis section of the catalogue.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

Not quite.

Hose 1 is the low pressure oil return which goes to the block

Hose 2 is the high pressure oil feed from oil filter bracket to vacuum pump.

3 is the vacuum connection. It should go to the brake booster, or a junction piece (way) connected to it.

This is exactly what I needed to know.
Hoses all sorted and put together, thank you.

I've never seen a brake booster that got its vacuum from a secondary pump. So I had mine hooked directly into the intake like I am used to.

Now it is running!
Now I have a new problem.

The turbo is leaking a lot of oil. I took it apart due to unending curiosity, nothing seems mechanically broken. Just not sealing anymore.

So I cleaned it and put it back together and, to no one's surprise, that did not fix anything. But it did help show exactly where its leaking.

What are the usual options for getting this fixed?
The stores near me say there isn't a rebuild kit they can order. I'd rather not drop a bunch of cash on a new one, though I'm seeing that is the most likely outcome.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

A diesel engine does not generate any significant manifold vacuum, which is why diesels have a separate vacuum pump. You won't get any vacuum assist from the intake manifold on a 2L. Diesels are not just petrol engines with higher compression. Why do you think Toyota went to the length of adding a vacuum pump if it was not necessary?

The turbo is most likely going to be leaking oil from worn parts (shaft/bushing/housing) so it's not just a case of replacing an O ring or gasket. So it needs to be rebuilt with new parts. People usually just replace the turbo.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

What is the turbo model?
I have found my engine on PartSouq and megazip. However, they do not say the model for the turbo, just the part number.
The names ct20 and ct26 come up often.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

What is the turbo model?
I have found my engine on PartSouq and megazip. However, they do not say the model for the turbo, just the part number.
The names ct20 and ct26 come up often.

Never mind, figured it out.
Didnt use enough google and completely forgot that a part number could be searched.
I am fairly confident that it is a ct20

 

[AirheadNut]

Turbo is a CT20, you’ll want to get a new or professionally rebuilt unit. The problem with disassembling and reassembling your own turbo is that the turbine blades and shaft have to be precisely balanced at speeds of 100-150k rpm for proper operation. Judging by the photos your turbo shaft seals are shot, that will dump oil into the intake and exhaust.

While you’re in that far I would highly recommend moving your pyrometer probe from the turbo outlet to the exhaust manifold. You’ll get much more accurate and useful measurements from it there.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

Well I got a new turbo and it still leaks. Its a lot less than the river it used to be but its all leaking from the same spaces.
Oil leaks from the intake and exhaust side of the turbo. The oil gauge shows a little low at idle and then raises to the middle after reving above 1krpm.
When I run the engine without the turbo, it runs cleanly with no smoke or oil coming out the exhaust. I am using 10w30, could that be too thin for the turbo? It is a brand new one from online.
Any ideas what might be going wrong?

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

If a new/refurbished turbo is still leaking oil, I would suspect there is pressurisation of the crankcase which is stopping the oil flow out of the turbo back to the sump pan. Or there is an obstruction in the turbo oil return.

 

[AirheadNut]

Oil pressure looks just fine. When installing the new turbo did you make sure to prime the oil line and turbo with engine oil before starting the engine the first time? Starting an engine on a new, dry turbo will promptly take out the shaft bearings and seals.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

If a new/refurbished turbo is still leaking oil, I would suspect there is pressurisation of the crankcase which is stopping the oil flow out of the turbo back to the sump pan. Or there is an obstruction in the turbo oil return.

The pcv does feel to have a lot of pressure coming out of it.
I just checked the return hose and the port on the block. The hose is clear and the port did not seem to have anything inside it either. I don't know how i should be checking the inside of the port, but I was able to put about a foot of wire into it with nothing blocking it.

Oil pressure looks just fine. When installing the new turbo did you make sure to prime the oil line and turbo with engine oil before starting the engine the first time? Starting an engine on a new, dry turbo will promptly take out the shaft bearings and seals.

I did prime it with oil.

 

[Eurasiaoverland]

Where is your PCV routed to? From factory it should go back into the intake system upsteam of the turbo. Try venting it directly to atmosphere and see if that stops the oil leaking from the turbo. From what I understand of the turbo, the turbine shaft basically floats on oil and the shaft seals are not perfect seals, so the turbo relies on no backpressure in the oil retun to srain the oil out.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

I've cranked down on this hose clamp for the oil return from the turbo, but it still leaks out the top.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

Where is your PCV routed to? From factory it should go back into the intake system upsteam of the turbo. Try venting it directly to atmosphere and see if that stops the oil leaking from the turbo. From what I understand of the turbo, the turbine shaft basically floats on oil and the shaft seals are not perfect seals, so the turbo relies on no backpressure in the oil retun to srain the oil out.

It did not change. I let it idle and rev for a bit to see if it needed to clear the system and it stayed the same.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

From what I'm seeing, the oil return is the likely culprit. The bracket I have seems to neck down. I'm going to try and remove this center piece to let more oil flow.

 

[wetmiceslapper]

I got too silly.
Back to waiting for parts. This time I guess I can order one that's nice and wide.