Builds Another Prado in Montana (2 Viewers)

[AirheadNut]

After some consideration and measurement, I decided to just pull the engine. I am not sure I would have been able to clear the end of the transmission due to the limited space in my garage. I got everything but a couple of wires disconnected and tried to pull the engine forward. It wouldn't budge. Come to find out there are 3 bolts on the top of the bell housing, not two! Pulled the last bolt and then discovered that the hydraulic ram on my engine hoist is worn out and won't lift a load above this point:

So now I have to wait for a week for a new 12 ton ram to arrive before I can finally pull this lump.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

After some consideration and measurement, I decided to just pull the engine. I am not sure I would have been able to clear the end of the transmission due to the limited space in my garage. I got everything but a couple of wires disconnected and tried to pull the engine forward. It wouldn't budge. Come to find out there are 3 bolts on the top of the bell housing, not two! Pulled the last bolt and then discovered that the hydraulic ram on my engine hoist is worn out and won't lift a load above this point:
View attachment 1645489
View attachment 1645490

So now I have to wait for a week for a new 12 ton ram to arrive before I can finally pull this lump.

I think you are just at the end of travel of the hydraulic cylinder. You can do it with that hoist. Extend the boom to the next setting (and the legs too). And get the end of the boom much closer to the top of the engine by tightening up the chain length and configuration of the hook etc. Also, jack up the front axle of the truck and take the wheels off. Lower the axle as much as possible onto some jack stands. This will drop the front a lot. I can almost guarantee that hoist will work just fine then.

Or wait a week.....

 

[Dprio34]

I used full extension on my el cheapo hoist. I also took the valve cover off so the chain didn't crimp/bend the valve covers.
(trying to minimize the length of chain). Got her down pretty bare bones. Worth a shot over buying a new cherry picker.

 

[AirheadNut]

The hoist I have is a monster, and will lift to a full 42" from the hook to the top of the fender when empty, but with the engine on it will only give about 30" clearance. It is supposed to have a 19" stroke in the cylinder, but is only extending about 16" of that under load. I figure while I am waiting I can work on removing the engine wiring harness.

 

[Dprio34]

Just trying to help. Not trying to undermine any decisions. I'll step back.

 

[AirheadNut]

No problem, the help is much appreciated. The cylinder had a slow internal leak, too, so I figured it was time for replacement anyway.

 

[AirheadNut]

The new cylinder for my hoist arrived so I installed it and yanked the engine out right away! The cylinder has a double piston pump, which makes it twice as fast as the old one.

It was quite a chore to move the engine across the garage; the floor is just gravel covered in odd bits of plywood, and the wheels on the hoist had a tendency to dig in. Now I have a (not quite clean) slate to work with!

 

[AirheadNut]

While waiting for the cylinder to arrive, I spent my free time translating one of the wiring diagrams that @GTSSportCoupe found a while back. Found Japanese 1990-1995 70 series wiring manuals! It is slow going, but it is going to be really useful when I try to figure out all of this stuff:

I will add the translated versions to the dropbox folder once I finish.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Nice work!

What's the plan for your old 2LTE? Is it a dual mass or single mass flywheel that came out?

 

[AirheadNut]

Nice work!

What's the plan for your old 2LTE? Is it a dual mass or single mass flywheel that came out?

Hopefully I will be able to sell the whole works, from bell housing to fan. The engine is in great condition apart from the cracked head. Before the head cracked it would start at -16C on one glow, with almost no smoke. Not sure about the flywheel, I think it is dual mass but I will have to take a closer look.

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Hopefully I will be able to sell the whole works, from bell housing to fan. The engine is in great condition apart from the cracked head. Before the head cracked it would start at -16C on one glow, with almost no smoke. Not sure about the flywheel, I think it is dual mass but I will have to take a closer look.

Did not know the head cracked; sorry to hear. Must have been the original one on there. Sounds to be in great shape otherwise though!

Too far away and I'm sure you have no interest in doing the cylinder head yourself, but saw this on our local-ish craigslist this morning. No idea if it's any good or not, but if it is, the price is very reasonable. Toyota Surf Cylinder Head

 

[AirheadNut]

Did not know the head cracked; sorry to hear. Must have been the original one on there. Sounds to be in great shape otherwise though!

Too far away and I'm sure you have no interest in doing the cylinder head yourself, but saw this on our local-ish craigslist this morning. No idea if it's any good or not, but if it is, the price is very reasonable. Toyota Surf Cylinder Head

Thats actually a really tempting price...
Is there any way (casting numbers, date stamps, etc) to tell if the head is an upgraded casting? Would it be unwise to think that the valves/cam could just be swapped over?

 

[GTSSportCoupe]

Thats actually a really tempting price...
Is there any way (casting numbers, date stamps, etc) to tell if the head is an upgraded casting? Would it be unwise to think that the valves/cam could just be swapped over?

It's a bit hard to tell from those pictures, but comparing it to pictures I have of mine I'm going to say it's not a genuine Toyota cylinder head. If that's the case, I'd be very cautious. I've heard most of the off shore ones are not that great. You could just email the person and ask them some questions though. There are a couple brands of aftermarket cylinder heads that are good. Like 'Allhead' from Australia. Would be nice to have pictures of the other side to see what shape the pre-cups are in, etc.

Swapping the valve train over is not too big a deal. You have to buy what's called a "valve grind kit". It's an actual Toyota part number. Comes with all the top end gaskets, head gasket and valve seals. It's a good idea to buy new cam shaft bearing shells as well. The biggest problem is setting the valve clearance. Likely it will be different on the new head. You might be able to swap shims around and get it right. You could take measurements and buy the right shims. Or you could take it to a machine shop, and they can set the clearance by grinding it from the valve stems (this is what I did).

Or just sell the motor as is and let someone else deal with it....

 

[AirheadNut]

Sorry for the lack of updates, I've been busy with wiring. I finally got all of the wiring manual for 1990+ 70-series translated from Japanese, then I could tear into the harness itself. It went from this:

To this:

And then this:

Here are the leftovers:

I also think I found the stalling at idle problem, there were several poor connections in the wiring going going to the spill valve.

 

[AirheadNut]

I also partially dismantled the harness that feeds all of the relays in the LH side of the engine bay, and removed a bunch from there as well.

A few weeks ago when my adapter plate first arrived I found that a metal coolant line going around the back of the TDI posed a clearance issue. I just got around to removing it to lop the end off.

Removal of this pipe required the removal of the oil cooler and the dipstick tube.

 

[AirheadNut]

Once out it was a quick job to cut off the end, weld it shut, paint it, and put it back in.

 

[AirheadNut]

No more clearance issues, so I could install the adapter plate!

And the flywheel:

My new Stage 1 clutch arrived a couple of days ago, so I got to do some unpacking.

It is supposed to be good for up to 300hp and 300ft-lbs torque. I don't think it will ever see 300hp, but I might get close with the torque...

 

[AirheadNut]

Clutch and pressure plate are on! Now I just need to remove the exhaust from the turbo so the engine will fit and the starter will clear, and I can test fit the engine in the vehicle.

 

[JimmyPrado]

That's almost too purdy to cover up!

 

[AirheadNut]

Got the exhaust cut off. I couldn't resist dropping the engine in the Prado just to see how things look. Some cutting is going to be necessary, but overall it looks like it will fit nicely and have room to spare. Timing belt replacements will be a breeze!