Build Another Prado in Montana

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While I waited to torque the bolts on the transmission I replaced the broken reverse light switch with the one from the donor trans:
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I was also able to remove the stripped out bolt holding the old flange onto the turbo. I had tried drilling it, welding something to it, and nothing seemed to work. Finally I decided to give the vise grips a try and it came right out.
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Once the sealant on the transmission had cured enough to torque the bolts the transfer case was ready to be reassembled.
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Next I need to find a torque meter to check the preload on the rear output bearing and then the final bits can be put back on the transfer case.
 
Here I was, thinking you were crushing it because you noticed this stuff BEFORE installing everything back in the truck and finding out it didn't work.
 
CRSWA said:
Here I was, thinking you were crushing it because you noticed this stuff BEFORE installing everything back in the truck and finding out it didn't work.
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It would be a pretty anticlimactic first test drive; back out of the garage and then find that there were no forward gears but 5th! I'm glad I caught it in time.
 
I went to set the rear output bearing preload on the transfer case today and ran into some trouble. From what I can tell in the manual the preload is supposed to be set without the bearing retainer gasket in place, but when I remove the gasket the preload is way too high even without any shims. With the gasket it is too low. Does anyone have any tips? Is the gasket supposed to be there when I set the preload?

This is the preload with no gasket/no shims. With the gasket it is about 10 in-lb.
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Attachments

Well, I was able to get the preload to within the range specified in the FSM. Then the last few bits of the transfer case went on and it was ready to install.
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Getting it from the workbench to the vehicle was a chore on the gravel floor.
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However, my brother helped out and we got the trans/t-case installed in the vehicle. A couple of the bolt holes in the crossmember didn't line up, so I had to enlarge them slightly to get all 8 bolts in. Then the new 3.4 bell housing, clutch arm and cylinder, and throwout bearing could go on.
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We popped the TDI in for a quick test fit and I was pleasantly surprised by the amount of room the new bell housing gives along the firewall. There is at least an inch even in the tightest spots. Next I need to figure out my engine mounts and how to mount the Toyota AC compressor.
 
I did some calculations last night and found that with the current diff/tire setup the engine will be revving way too high (about 3300 rpm at 70mph). So I started doing some research on swapping the 5th gear set in the transmission for a steeper overdrive. Here is what I found:

R150 5th: 0.838:1 (mine)
counter gear 33046-35050, -35051, -35052
main gear 33336-35010, -35070

R154 5th: 0.750:1 (Supra)
counter gear 33046-14010, -14011
main gear 33336-14040

R452 5th: 0.690:1 (Dyna 150)
counter gear 33046-25010, -25011, -25012 (discontinued) 33046-25020, -25030 (post 1995)
main gear 33336-25010 (discontinued) 33336-25020, -25030 (post 1995)

Ideally I would use the Dyna gears, but they are proving difficult to find and are quite expensive. In 1995 the R-series 5th gear was redesigned and the counter shaft diameter was increased from 28mm to 30mm, which means that I would have to use the pre-'95 Dyna gears which have been discontinued. Unfortunately I just sold my donor R150 from a '98 4Runner, which is of the updated design and would have used the later Dyna gears, which are readily available and inexpensive (~$200 for the set).

The Supra 5th would put me at 2950 rpm at 70mph, while the Dyna 5th would give 2700 rpm at 70mph. However, I plan on increasing my tire size from 225/75/R16 to 235/85/R16 at some point in the future, which would drop those numbers to 2750 rpm and 2500 rpm respectively.
 
AirheadNut said:
I did some calculations last night and found that with the current diff/tire setup the engine will be revving way too high (about 3300 rpm at 70mph). So I started doing some research on swapping the 5th gear set in the transmission for a steeper overdrive. Here is what I found:

R150 5th: 0.838:1 (mine)
counter gear 33046-35050, -35051, -35052
main gear 33336-35010, -35070

R154 5th: 0.750:1 (Supra)
counter gear 33046-14010, -14011
main gear 33336-14040

R452 5th: 0.690:1 (Dyna 150)
counter gear 33046-25010, -25011, -25012 (discontinued) 33046-25020, -25030 (post 1995)
main gear 33336-25010 (discontinued) 33336-25020, -25030 (post 1995)

Ideally I would use the Dyna gears, but they are proving difficult to find and are quite expensive. In 1995 the R-series 5th gear was redesigned and the counter shaft diameter was increased from 28mm to 30mm, which means that I would have to use the pre-'95 Dyna gears which have been discontinued. Unfortunately I just sold my donor R150 from a '98 4Runner, which is of the updated design and would have used the later Dyna gears, which are readily available and inexpensive (~$200 for the set).

The Supra 5th would put me at 2950 rpm at 70mph, while the Dyna 5th would give 2700 rpm at 70mph. However, I plan on increasing my tire size from 225/75/R16 to 235/85/R16 at some point in the future, which would drop those numbers to 2750 rpm and 2500 rpm respectively.
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I think it's probably the 4.88 diffs that are the biggest problem. Easiest option is run a 33-34" tire. Probably a 255/85R16 would work well. Or you could see if someone will trade diffs with you. The KZJ78 came with 4.3 diffs. Sometimes those guys swap to swap to 4.88s. Or find a high pinion front diff from an 80 series for the front (4.1?) and find a matching ratio from a toyota truck/4runner for the back.
 
GTSSportCoupe said:
I think it's probably the 4.88 diffs that are the biggest problem. Easiest option is run a 33-34" tire. Probably a 255/85R16 would work well. Or you could see if someone will trade diffs with you. The KZJ78 came with 4.3 diffs. Sometimes those guys swap to swap to 4.88s. Or find a high pinion front diff from an 80 series for the front (4.1?) and find a matching ratio from a toyota truck/4runner for the back.
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I considered just swapping out diffs, but the only drawback is that it would affect low range as well. I am thinking I will do a combination of the two by getting the 0.75 Supra 5th gear and then someday increasing my tire size (unfortunately my tires are almost brand new 10-ply KO2's). I think that with the 0.75 and current tires it will be a little on the slow side, but bearable, and with some 235/85's it will be just about right. The gearset for the Supra is only about $300, which is not too bad IMO.
 
I popped the engine back in last night to measure for engine mounts. I looks like I will have to do a bit of rearranging now that it is farther forward; the turbo actuator is now too close to the brake lines on the frame.
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However, there is now plenty of clearance between the exhaust manifold and the firewall:
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AirheadNut said:
I did some calculations last night and found that with the current diff/tire setup the engine will be revving way too high (about 3300 rpm at 70mph). So I started doing some research on swapping the 5th gear set in the transmission for a steeper overdrive. Here is what I found:

R150 5th: 0.838:1 (mine)
counter gear 33046-35050, -35051, -35052
main gear 33336-35010, -35070

R154 5th: 0.750:1 (Supra)
counter gear 33046-14010, -14011
main gear 33336-14040

R452 5th: 0.690:1 (Dyna 150)
counter gear 33046-25010, -25011, -25012 (discontinued) 33046-25020, -25030 (post 1995)
main gear 33336-25010 (discontinued) 33336-25020, -25030 (post 1995)

Ideally I would use the Dyna gears, but they are proving difficult to find and are quite expensive. In 1995 the R-series 5th gear was redesigned and the counter shaft diameter was increased from 28mm to 30mm, which means that I would have to use the pre-'95 Dyna gears which have been discontinued. Unfortunately I just sold my donor R150 from a '98 4Runner, which is of the updated design and would have used the later Dyna gears, which are readily available and inexpensive (~$200 for the set).

The Supra 5th would put me at 2950 rpm at 70mph, while the Dyna 5th would give 2700 rpm at 70mph. However, I plan on increasing my tire size from 225/75/R16 to 235/85/R16 at some point in the future, which would drop those numbers to 2750 rpm and 2500 rpm respectively.
Click to expand...

The R154 has a different cluster ratio - 1.117 vs R150/R151 1.482. If you work out overdrive ratio (main gear/cluster gear) x cluster ratio it gives 0.99, which means you'll have a second top gear.

I'm currently rebuilding an R151 to replace my factory G52 on my LJ79 and had in mind doing the Dyna gear swap - but guess my luck - I went from gears being available to buy but was still doing my research and deciding on stuff, to gears being discontinued and stock sold out everywhere :bang:

So I made some more research and came up with another option (still have to finish my gearbox though and progress is slowwww :cautious: but it seems like it'll work). I haven't seen this anywhere online either. I'm using Jeep AX15 5th gear (0.79) but you have to machine abit off the main gear since it has a plain part on each side (vs. R151 plain part on one side only). Aisin used to manufacture the R15x for Toyota and the AX15 for Jeep but they're pretty much the same inside. Good news is these gears are readily available and really cheap - $26 main gear & $75 cluster gear. It doesn't really give as much of an improvement when compared to the Dyna swap, but it's still an improvement over standard gearing.
 
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After a long week at work I decided to tackle engine mounts. I spent an afternoon measuring all of the mounting holes in the side of the block and coming up with a design. The RH side of the engine is pretty simple, but the LH side has to work around the AC compressor, dipstick tube, and a coolant line.
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I got a piece all cut to shape and bent, and it fit great.
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I drilled the three holes for the mounting bolts, but then it didn't fit so great.
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I must have been way too tired when I made the measurements, because the holes for both sides were way off. So I proceeded to make another set of plates:
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Unfortunately, these turned out wrong too.
 
I gave up on engine mounts for the day and worked on finishing up some of the wiring:
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Parts have been arriving, too.
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I'm going to be using engine mounts from a W124 chassis Mercedes 300D:
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When I revisited the engine mount problem I discovered that the second attempt at the RH side was recoverable, it just needed a new hole:
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The LH one wasn't, so I made a third. It turned out pretty close, and just needs some tweaking and will be good to go. I also spent some time leveling the frame of the vehicle so I can make sure the engine sits level side to side. Does anyone know what angle the 2L-TE sits at in the engine bay? The transmission can tilt up and down several inches, and I'm no longer sure where it should sit for the correct driveline angles.
 
Yeah, ALH and earlier TDI's can get a bit buzzy at high RPM, and economy will definitely suffer. At this point I am going to get it all put together and then decide how I want to tackle the gearing issue (tires, diffs, 5th gear swap, or a combination of the above). Really I want to get a feel for how the engine performs with the additional weight and air resistance of the 70-series, and the stage 2 tune. (I've never driven a tuned TDI) My end goal is to have cruising speed be at about 70 mph, with rpm's sitting just a bit higher than they would in the VW.

As an aside, I daily a '97 Jetta TDI and generally get between 46 and 52 mpg, so I'm hoping that the Prado will see a significant efficiency increase over the 2L-TE!
 
Update time! Pulled the engine out (again!) to grind off the rest of the old engine mounts, put the engine back in and finally got engine mount plates to fit the engine.
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Also started fitting up the frame side of the mounts:
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Getting an idea of how it will all go together. It turned out that one of the failed mount plates provided the perfect amount of offset to clear the AC compressor, which was nice.
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Tacked in place:
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