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Another One!... 1994 FZJ80 LS/4L60E Swap (Budget, Hopefully) (4 Viewers)
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Can you please share Summit part number for the manifolds? Thank you
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2012
- Threads
- 484
- Messages
- 14,279
- Location
- Winter Park, Florida
- Website
- www.cruisermatts.com
Summit Racing SUM-G9080
There are about a half dozen brands that sell these and they are all very similar
Appreciate this! Awesome build!
Waiting to see how you do the front driveshaft. I am hearing that with DC driveshaft there is possible interference with transmission pan.
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- Thread starter
- #46
Yeah! They work great and clear, plenty of room to spare. I got some universal LS swap cast manifolds from Summit. I can throw some pictures of those up later this week. They were about $240 off Summit Racing.
- Thread starter
- #47
Lol thanks bro haha
- Thread starter
- #48
Ok, so lots of progress, but not a lot of things checked off the list over the past few weeks!
I wanted to figure out the shift linkage. The A442F trans had the shift linkage on the passenger side. For the 4L60, I needed it to drop down the driver's side. So I pulled the shifter apart and made a modification to it. I took the rod that connected to the lever that ran through the trans tunnel, carefully cut it down some more on the driver's side so that I had a longer square rod for the shift lever to slide onto. I took the shift lever from the other side and cut it off so I could add a straight piece of steel bar and weld that on. I figured out the length using info from rockrod's build post. He goes into pretty good depth about the length needed. I am trying to source a 91/92 shifter since it has PRND321, giving it the extra gear slot for the 4L60. If not, I will just modify my existing shifter further by adding another notch at the bottom. I am still working here on completing this. I need to make a bracket to hold the shifter cable housing in place. I have already cut the holes in the trans tunnel, but the need some clean up work.
https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipPJ9w8U3pBwXQDZGf7GsIgiNDw_oDLKVxlR3o6B
I wanted to figure out the shift linkage. The A442F trans had the shift linkage on the passenger side. For the 4L60, I needed it to drop down the driver's side. So I pulled the shifter apart and made a modification to it. I took the rod that connected to the lever that ran through the trans tunnel, carefully cut it down some more on the driver's side so that I had a longer square rod for the shift lever to slide onto. I took the shift lever from the other side and cut it off so I could add a straight piece of steel bar and weld that on. I figured out the length using info from rockrod's build post. He goes into pretty good depth about the length needed. I am trying to source a 91/92 shifter since it has PRND321, giving it the extra gear slot for the 4L60. If not, I will just modify my existing shifter further by adding another notch at the bottom. I am still working here on completing this. I need to make a bracket to hold the shifter cable housing in place. I have already cut the holes in the trans tunnel, but the need some clean up work.
https://photos.google.com/u/1/photo/AF1QipPJ9w8U3pBwXQDZGf7GsIgiNDw_oDLKVxlR3o6B
- Thread starter
- #50
Working in this area, I also needed to tackle the transfer case shifter location issue. The Marks 4WD adapter for the 4L60 to HF2A comes with an extra plate of metal with 8 holes in it. This is to relocate the transfer case shift handle to the correct location. Unfortunately, it still doesn't quite hit in the same location. It puts it forward correctly, but does not locate it correctly side to side. In my case, the handle needed to move more to the driver's side. This may not apply to everyone's situation, but I wanted to post this up to hopefully give a visual to any of the peeps out there like me that sometimes just need a picture haha.
I cut the plate in a manner that would allow me to add a brace plate with some plug welds for extra strength since this bit just kind of cantilevers out over no man's land. Bracing the side wasn't possible, as it starts to interfere with the shifter linkage, so keep that in mind when you are figuring this part out. Mine needed 1.25" to the driver's of movement to line up in the console. I cut the plate, moved it over, got the assist TIGing it up, since I can't TIG (yet). Cut the strengthening plate and drilled the holes and welded that up too. I trimmed the extra meat off of the back part of the plate for looks and to make sure the linkage for the tcase shifter cleared. Painted it up, the world is round. Don't use the included Marks hardware from this. It is crappy and not the right length for the job. I used some old Toyota hardware that was around, 1) because the length of the fastener was better, and 2) because it keeps everything the same size with the 12mm head. #details lol.
Here is a pic of the bracket all finished up:
I cut the plate in a manner that would allow me to add a brace plate with some plug welds for extra strength since this bit just kind of cantilevers out over no man's land. Bracing the side wasn't possible, as it starts to interfere with the shifter linkage, so keep that in mind when you are figuring this part out. Mine needed 1.25" to the driver's of movement to line up in the console. I cut the plate, moved it over, got the assist TIGing it up, since I can't TIG (yet). Cut the strengthening plate and drilled the holes and welded that up too. I trimmed the extra meat off of the back part of the plate for looks and to make sure the linkage for the tcase shifter cleared. Painted it up, the world is round. Don't use the included Marks hardware from this. It is crappy and not the right length for the job. I used some old Toyota hardware that was around, 1) because the length of the fastener was better, and 2) because it keeps everything the same size with the 12mm head. #details lol.
Here is a pic of the bracket all finished up:
- Thread starter
- #51
I also wanted to tackle the air box and intake piping. It is fairly straightforward and simple, but I knew I would need this in place before making my fan shroud, running radiator hoses, etc, since this was the least easy to manipulate system in the area. I think I mentioned it above, but I ended up buying a 95+ air box off Ebay. It has the round outlet instead of the square outlet that came on my 94. I trimmed off all of the extra tabs for the Toyota MAF and ground it smooth. I used a 3.5" to 4" reducer coupling to adapt up to the 4" GM MAF.
A couple notes here: This is part aesthetic and part function and there are about a thousand ways to skin this cat. Depending on which gen LS motor you are using there are a few MAF styles also. This is what worked for mine, though in the future, i may do a full stainless setup, because I can cerakote it and make it look super slick. This is what I ended up with at the moment.
Anyways, I used the following parts:
(1) 3.5" to 4" reducer
(1) 4" 45* elbow
(1) 8" straight piece of stainless, 4" dia.
(1) tight 90*
(6) hose clamps.
I played around with the air box itself and ended up using about a half inch spacer under the front most foot to push the piping up and out of the way of the upper radiator hose and fan. Once I get the shroud built, I will probably do a little more trimming and tweaking here.
A couple notes here: This is part aesthetic and part function and there are about a thousand ways to skin this cat. Depending on which gen LS motor you are using there are a few MAF styles also. This is what worked for mine, though in the future, i may do a full stainless setup, because I can cerakote it and make it look super slick. This is what I ended up with at the moment.
Anyways, I used the following parts:
(1) 3.5" to 4" reducer
(1) 4" 45* elbow
(1) 8" straight piece of stainless, 4" dia.
(1) tight 90*
(6) hose clamps.
I played around with the air box itself and ended up using about a half inch spacer under the front most foot to push the piping up and out of the way of the upper radiator hose and fan. Once I get the shroud built, I will probably do a little more trimming and tweaking here.
- Thread starter
- #52
A little bonus action, and pro tip, courtesy of @cruisermatt - My intake manifold was pretty faded and gross looking. Duplicolor Trim and bumper paint- works an absolute treat! I forgot to take a before, but it was a chalky grey. Pressure wash and scrub with some purple power, let it dry, a few light coats of the trim and bumper and it literally looks factory good. Not like spray paint at all. Still wet in the photo....
If I had to do mine over again. I would just use a locar shifter or something aftermarket. They can look really nice. Nice progress.
- Thread starter
- #54
Factory gauges: I'll do a few scattered posts in the thread about this because I am still figuring it out a little bit as I go.
Water temp: I really wanted to retain factory gauge functionality, so following the advice and results of many before me, you can use a Toyota water temp sensor and put it in the GM block. Retain that wire in your Toyota harness and it should be plug and play. More on paring down the Toyota harness later, but it's another Rockrod post.
A lot of people drill out and re-tap the block on the GM side, but with the advice of someone much smarter than me, you can also turn down and re-thread the Toyota water temp sensor to 12x 1.5.
I ordered a new one because mine was toast on the 1FZ from being almost 30 years old. It broke just looking at it, it was so brittle. I also ordered a new Harness plug with terminals from Ballenger (awesome resource for all electrical connectors/ terminals/ all that jazz).
Parts needed here:
Toyota 1FZ water temp sensor: 83420-16040 (PartSouq)
Toyota Water Temp Plug Kit 90980-11428 (From Ballenger)
Water temp: I really wanted to retain factory gauge functionality, so following the advice and results of many before me, you can use a Toyota water temp sensor and put it in the GM block. Retain that wire in your Toyota harness and it should be plug and play. More on paring down the Toyota harness later, but it's another Rockrod post.
A lot of people drill out and re-tap the block on the GM side, but with the advice of someone much smarter than me, you can also turn down and re-thread the Toyota water temp sensor to 12x 1.5.
I ordered a new one because mine was toast on the 1FZ from being almost 30 years old. It broke just looking at it, it was so brittle. I also ordered a new Harness plug with terminals from Ballenger (awesome resource for all electrical connectors/ terminals/ all that jazz).
Parts needed here:
Toyota 1FZ water temp sensor: 83420-16040 (PartSouq)
Toyota Water Temp Plug Kit 90980-11428 (From Ballenger)
- Thread starter
- #55
It seems like quite a few people have run into this, but not many have posted a clear path to a solution. This is still in progress, and I'll be able to post a definitive answer once the driveshaft arrives.
Driveshaft clearance on the trans pan: I have a 3" Dobinsons lift on my truck, engine placement is 1.5" off center to the drivers side measuring from the center of the crankshaft pulley. This is the absolute max I can go driver because of the PS pump. It also required me to make a 1/4" thick pacer for my steering box to give the needed clearance. Regardless of all of that, I am still just barely clearing the trans pan with the front driveshaft. Front driveshaft is on backwards to maximize the clearance, and I have no more than 1/4" clearance sitting level and stationary. If I flex the DS up, no problem, no interference. Bust as soon as the PS gets flexed up at all (im not even 1/4 of the way flexed out in the picture below and I have heavy contact), I have immediate interference at the pan. Its more the bottom/ side corner than just side or just bottom. A few folks said setting the motor up a little higher may help, but I don't see how that is possible because the fan/ intake manifold will all start having significant interference with the hood or other systems.
Some folks suggested "self clearancing" the pan, but with the valve bodies hanging pretty low into the pan, I don't want to risk it.
My solution is two fold:
1) I am going to switch to the shallow car trans pan and filter. This should get me about 1/2" to 1/4" of clearance.
2) I am going to bitt eh bullet and order a custom driveshaft. I don't have it yet, but I am ordering from Tom Woods, and based on their known quality, and how helpful they were on the phone, I don't forsee any additional issues here. Just provide them with end flange bolt pattern dimensions, tcase flange to pinion flange distance. And I am going to go with a double cardan (may give a little extra clearance and better with my lift) and a 2" diameter shaft. They use .120 wall DOM on their 2" shafts which is more than beefy enough. I will probably re-sleeve and modify my old driveshaft with 2" heavy wall tubing as a trail spare for future use, but I don't want to run that on the highway, since it won't be properly balanced.
I will let you know how that solution ~pans~ out...pun definitely intended.
Driveshaft clearance on the trans pan: I have a 3" Dobinsons lift on my truck, engine placement is 1.5" off center to the drivers side measuring from the center of the crankshaft pulley. This is the absolute max I can go driver because of the PS pump. It also required me to make a 1/4" thick pacer for my steering box to give the needed clearance. Regardless of all of that, I am still just barely clearing the trans pan with the front driveshaft. Front driveshaft is on backwards to maximize the clearance, and I have no more than 1/4" clearance sitting level and stationary. If I flex the DS up, no problem, no interference. Bust as soon as the PS gets flexed up at all (im not even 1/4 of the way flexed out in the picture below and I have heavy contact), I have immediate interference at the pan. Its more the bottom/ side corner than just side or just bottom. A few folks said setting the motor up a little higher may help, but I don't see how that is possible because the fan/ intake manifold will all start having significant interference with the hood or other systems.
Some folks suggested "self clearancing" the pan, but with the valve bodies hanging pretty low into the pan, I don't want to risk it.
My solution is two fold:
1) I am going to switch to the shallow car trans pan and filter. This should get me about 1/2" to 1/4" of clearance.
2) I am going to bitt eh bullet and order a custom driveshaft. I don't have it yet, but I am ordering from Tom Woods, and based on their known quality, and how helpful they were on the phone, I don't forsee any additional issues here. Just provide them with end flange bolt pattern dimensions, tcase flange to pinion flange distance. And I am going to go with a double cardan (may give a little extra clearance and better with my lift) and a 2" diameter shaft. They use .120 wall DOM on their 2" shafts which is more than beefy enough. I will probably re-sleeve and modify my old driveshaft with 2" heavy wall tubing as a trail spare for future use, but I don't want to run that on the highway, since it won't be properly balanced.
I will let you know how that solution ~pans~ out...pun definitely intended.
- Thread starter
- #56
Let's talk throttle bodies. The 2002 Yukon Denali XL that I started with as my base vehicle came as a Drive By Wire setup. I was originally going to retain that, I kept the pedal and control module off of the Yukon and was planning on running it that way. Then I started thinking about Cruise Control. Not a necessity for me, but I think it would be pretty sweet. I haven't worked out all the details on the cruise control yet, but another factor that led me to switch to DBC is less work on the pedal fab, and retaining the Toyota throttle cable, which for me is a rewarding dorky kind of thing when I can nearly perfectly clip the Toyota part right into the GM part. Like mixing up MegaBlox and Legos as a kid. I digress.
My dad actually had a DBC motor out of a 2002 suburban he is dropping in his 76 C10, but he wants to go DBW. It worked out perfectly that we just swapped throttle bodies and I gave him the DBW pedal and box. Dad's LS collection for the win.
In converting to DBC, you will need to make the following mods to your DBW harness and make sure you have the following DBC parts:
1) Need DBC Throttle Body
2) Need GM TPS sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS TPS Wire Pigtail -Throttle Position Sensor Connector - LS1 LSX Plug WPTPS30
3) Need GM IAC sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS IAC Wire Pigtail - Idle Air Control Valve Connector Compatible with LS1 LSX Plug WPIAC30
4) Misc wire- I have the Red/ Blue ECU with the right serial number to do this. You cannot do this with every ECU. Check out the LT1Swap.com website for all the dirty details of which ECUs are compatible, what terminals in your ECU to pin the wires to, wire colors, etc.
5) ECU needs to be re-programmed to recognize DBC functionality (LT1Swap.com also)
My dad actually had a DBC motor out of a 2002 suburban he is dropping in his 76 C10, but he wants to go DBW. It worked out perfectly that we just swapped throttle bodies and I gave him the DBW pedal and box. Dad's LS collection for the win
.In converting to DBC, you will need to make the following mods to your DBW harness and make sure you have the following DBC parts:
1) Need DBC Throttle Body
2) Need GM TPS sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS TPS Wire Pigtail -Throttle Position Sensor Connector - LS1 LSX Plug WPTPS30
3) Need GM IAC sensor connector (I ordered a pigtail off Amazon and then ordered the Metri-Pack 150 terminals and 16-18 ga weather seals to repin it for a seamless harness) ICT Billet LS IAC Wire Pigtail - Idle Air Control Valve Connector Compatible with LS1 LSX Plug WPIAC30
4) Misc wire- I have the Red/ Blue ECU with the right serial number to do this. You cannot do this with every ECU. Check out the LT1Swap.com website for all the dirty details of which ECUs are compatible, what terminals in your ECU to pin the wires to, wire colors, etc.
5) ECU needs to be re-programmed to recognize DBC functionality (LT1Swap.com also)
- Thread starter
- #57
It happened! I was thinking I would just clear. I am going to convert to a shallow pan and a custom 2" diameter shaft DC driveshaft from Tom Woods. Didn't want to spend the money there, but after a week and a half of hemhawing, it's the only solution I see.
Do you think notching of the pan could be the solution to this?
thatcabledude
GOLD Star
That barely gives you any gain. The shallow pan is tight to the internals so you can’t do much.
A smaller diameter shaft is necessary no matter what IMO. Mine is custom made small diameter, pan is shallow, and I have still incurred small dents in pan from wheeling when rocks have flung in between the two. Freak occurrence, but it’s happened.
- Thread starter
- #60
I'm with thatcabledude. I wish it were so, but there's no way. The valve body hangs into the pan, so you really don't have any room to chop or "persuade" as they say. Definitely a smaller diameter driveshaft and a shallow pan, and I'm going to probably invest in some good bump stops so I make sure I don't flex the driveshaft up into it in extreme situations.
