An illustrated guide to replacing your APPS - Part 1

[084runnerltd]

have you disconnected the battery for a few minutes so the whole thing can relearn together so to speak? a warm start sends it to 1500 or a dead cold start? my truck goes to about 1100 on a dead cold start.

No I didn’t, I just started it up. (Since I didn’t have a mil to begin with).

It definitely seemed higher than a normal cold start, as shifting gears resulted in the truck slamming into gear and jerking the truck.

Thinking maybe just throw it back togeather tomorrow and disconnect the battery for a while.

 

[kruisinkid]

The problem "fixed" itself by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes, and then everything was normal for a few weeks, although the problem would come back. The only code I had was p1121. Time will tell if the APPS was causing my problem.

it seems that disconnecting the battery will have some effect on it. def try that tomorrow. hope it works

 

[084runnerltd]

it seems that disconnecting the battery will have some effect on it. def try that tomorrow. hope it works

Will do, thanks for the help.

 

[084runnerltd]

Disconnected the battery while I put everything back together.

Started it up and got the high idle...let it run until it was warm.

Shut it off and did some “idle reset” processes I found on YouTube.

1). Ignition on, not running, slowing press the pedal to the floor and slowing release it 3x

2). Turn ignition on (do not start) then off, then back on and start. Turn off all lights, radio, etc...Engage parking brake, hold the brake and place in drive. Let the vehicle idle for 5 minutes.

I have no idea if step 1 or 2 or both or neither did anything, but afterwards idle was at 690rpms and throttle around 13%.

Drove it around the block and everything seems good as new.

Thanks for the help all!!

 

[Somebodyelse5]

In case your 3 Phillips head screws that mount the APPS are stripped....get an allen head M6x1x16mm combined with split lock washer and flat washer from ace

 

[SmoothLC]

So, actually drove the LC today. Seems it doesn't get driven as much with the stay at home order recommendation.

Drove to a neighbor's house with a friend to check out some ham equipment for sale.

After we decided to purchase everything (lots and lots of gear in near pristine condition due to a death in the extended family), I started up the LC to turn the vehicle around and back into the drive way to load everything up.

I immediately noticed it was in limp mode and then saw the dreadful CEL light. Ugh.

Turned it off, informed my friend it might be a slow ride to his house, loaded the gear up, started the LC and the CEL was off and no limp mode!

Hum. My OBD2 bluetooth reader wasn't connecting to my phone so I drove over to AutoZone to check the codes. The manager handed me the code reader across the counter and line of tape separating us and asked if I knew how to run it.

Yup, took it outside, plugged it in and turned the ignition to on. Ran back inside and gave him the code reader.

P1121. This was only the second time the LC triggered that code.

The first time was 2 or 3 years ago in Idaho Falls when we went snowmobiling in Island Park. It was 20 below zero when we woke up to drive home and it stayed in limp mode until it warmed up.

Here's the question - from this and other threads the recommended action is to replace the APPS (22060-50011). I've kept the TB pretty clean over the years, but wondering if I should also go ahead and purchase the TPS (89452-30140) and replace "while I'm in there." I can get both online for a total of $380. OR, was thinking if I were to keep the LC a little longer, (was hoping to be in a 200 by now, but w/ the recent wealth transfer to the 1% stimulus, should I bite the bullet and get the whole TB (22030-50142) for $432, since it's just a matter of time when inflation kicks in and $$s get significantly depreciated due to the ongoing currency wars?

What say the Mud prognosticators (no doom's day responses, ok)?

 

[SmoothLC]

Bump

 

[Bustedmagnet]

I have a 2000 LX470. About a year ago I noticed that when going highways speeds I would get a brief loss of power that could be corrected by simply letting go of the gas and reengaging. For a long time I thought my foot might be getting tired and maybe it was just me. Finally after about year, I got a CEL, P1121. However, by the time I got this code, I was getting the dreaded "limp mode". I ordered the replacement APPs based solely on the symptoms others described.

The point is, I have no more than a basic ratchet set my mom bought me that I used to build Ikea furniture. It was tough going but I got it replaced after about 90 minutes of self doubt and fighting the fear of taking things apart that I had no idea what they were for. As far as cars go, I've never even changed my oil. But I read on here enough people saying it was an easy enough job and I went for it. It works. In retrospect I hadn't realized how much power I lost over time because of this. It feels like a new vehicle now. Thanks everyone!

 

[sigjar]

Hi! For a second I thought this was something I was capable to change! Result : not able to move the screws and lost one bolt in the engine bay

any tip on moving them? Did you heat them first? Using a screwdriver, it was rather hard to reach the lowest screw.

 

[Bustedmagnet]

Hi! For a second I thought this was something I was capable to change! Result : not able to move the screws and lost one bolt in the engine bay

any tip on moving them? Did you heat them first? Using a screwdriver, it was rather hard to reach the lowest screw.
View attachment 2341029

You have to remove that entire plastic air intake assembly. Starting on the left where you change the air filter all the way to the back of the engine. If I remember correctly there are 4 hoses attached to this, plus the 2 hose ends that are clamped on, plus two bolts. It's not as bad as it sounds, if I can do it anyone can.

 

[sigjar]

You have to remove that entire plastic air intake assembly. Starting on the left where you change the air filter all the way to the back of the engine. If I remember correctly there are 4 hoses attached to this, plus the 2 hose ends that are clamped on, plus two bolts. It's not as bad as it sounds, if I can do it anyone can.

I started doing this, however,when I tried to remove the screws they were completely stuck. There is no rust on the car. Did you use powertools to get them out? Thanks!

 

[Bustedmagnet]

I started doing this, however,when I tried to remove the screws they were completely stuck. There is no rust on the car. Did you use powertools to get them out? Thanks!

I didn't use any power tools. I did need a ratchet to provide enough torque though. My hand was not powerful enough.

 

[sigjar]

Thanks! I'll try to buy a smaller ratchet! Thanks for the reply!

 

[nissanh]

Thanks! I'll try to buy a smaller ratchet! Thanks for the reply!

Try to turn clockwise about 2-3 degrees as you are tightening the bolt and then start turning left. Get a good screwdriver, definitely not unbranded.

In worst case, get a locking plier to the bolt head and break it loose.

 

[sigjar]

Thanks! I also cleaned some oil from the throttle body, but assume this is normal? (My comfort zone is to exterior/interior and electrics)

 

[sigjar]

 

[sigjar]

View attachment 2348085View attachment 2348087

Any tips? Not able to get the throttle cable to be tight (no response when I gas, except when I floor it)

do I need to reprogram the sensor? (99 Lx470)

 

[Bustedmagnet]

I messed this part up on my first attempt. If you do it correctly, you can hand rotate the screwed in APPS to re-attach the throttle cable. No resetting of sensor was necessary. Hope that helps.

From the original instructions:

12) Install the APPS so that it's about 20 degrees to the left of it's actual installed position
13) Gradually rotate the APPS clockwise until it touches the throttle valve shaft, then tighten the three screws securely (steps 12+13 are the official from the factory man steps - I didn't exactly do this but jiggered it around until it fit correctly - seems to work fine)

 

[sigjar]

Thanks! Put in the old sensor and will give it to the detailership/a mechanic.

 

[Runner2aCruiser]

My 2000 LC w/210k miles went into limp mode for the first time ever yesterday.
Stopped, shut it off and restarted it and it ran fine, but cel, vsc, and traction control lights remain on.
I am trying to decided if I should take it to my local Toyota dealer or have a local mechanic work on it. I know Toyota will bend me over $ wise. I would figure my local mechanic should be able to replace the TPS and apps.
I currently use my LC as a everyday driver. 80 mile round trip. Has been flawless the past few years.