Alternator Replacement

[Zer0]

Incase anyone is curious this looks like an aftermarket upgrade for the 2uz: http://www.m2kinc.com/product-2uz-fe-38-43-2.html I suppose if mine fails one day I'll go that route. Thought I'd toss it in this thread incase anyone was searching for a aftermarket alternator upgrade

 

[CappyKD]

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Lexus~LX470~2001~4.7L-V8-2UZ-FE/13859-270-xp.html

This is the aftermarket 270 amp alternator that I used in my 100 when doing the 100k PM. I have been running it for about 10k miles and am very happy with the results.

 

[Txanm]

CappyKD, any problems so far with the alternator installation? Mine died on me two days ago but I have been limping along. Trying to decide if I will go with the same upgrade for my 2006. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Lexus~LX470~2006~4.7L-V8-2UZ-FE/13994-270-xp.html

Also, did this come with the correct connectors or did you have to do any mods to get it in?

https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Lexus~LX470~2001~4.7L-V8-2UZ-FE/13859-270-xp.html

This is the aftermarket 270 amp alternator that I used in my 100 when doing the 100k PM. I have been running it for about 10k miles and am very happy with the results.

 

[CappyKD]

CappyKD, any problems so far with the alternator installation? Mine died on me two days ago but I have been limping along. Trying to decide if I will go with the same upgrade for my 2006. https://www.dcpowerinc.com/fit/Lexus~LX470~2006~4.7L-V8-2UZ-FE/13994-270-xp.html

Also, did this come with the correct connectors or did you have to do any mods to get it in?

No, it has been awesome. Yes it comes with the correct connectors. They are made using re-cased Denso alternators not overdriven via pulley diameter changes like most other HO alternators. The Owners name is Dave. Tell him that Kirk DeCarlo sent you and maybe you can get a little discount. The only mod required was a bit of grinding on the PS pump bracket which has plenty of metal to grind a 1/4" away and not compromise the bracket. These alternators are larger and heavier that stock.

Kirk

 

[hoser]

I believe '01 and '06 have different OE connectors. I would confirm with DC Power so they get it correct the first time.

 

[spressomon]

IIRC the new style square connector came in '03

 

[bharris]

An update.....my reman alternator from the dealer lasted less than a year and 12k miles. Got the turbo whine and a bouncing needle on the gauge. Pulling it out today, my parts guy at the local dealer is swapping it under warranty. I assume I got the 1 out of a thousand remans that sucks.

 

[spressomon]

Similar experience here with the Toyota reman alternator. So far the cheaper reman from O'Reillys has outlasted the prior Mr. T reman...and came with a lifetime warranty.

 

[bharris]

Alternator replaced.......turbo whine still haunting me.....on to the tensioner pulley as that was the loudest source of the noise as I worked my way through the pulleys with the belt off.

 

[r2m]

I just replaced my alternator this week with a DC Power Engineering 240 amp alternator. I'm finally getting almost a 14 volt charge now! Even at idle I'm getting 13.6 volts.
My old alternator was barely pushing 12 volts and I was getting worried about my two $175.00 Odyssey batteries under the hood.

 

[CentralOverland]

Today I replaced my 80A with the Denso 210-0607. (The 130A Sequoia version.)

Of note:

1. I chose to remove the three power steering pump bolts so I could swing it out of the way of the alt. After that and a heavy assault at the stuck plastic connector, I was able to squeeze the alternator through the various hoses and out the bottom.

2. I did trim off the third mounting bracket, although I'm not totally convinced I needed to. I think it might have fit with it still on.

3. I followed the instructions here for installing the new connector. (Part # 90980-11964) EDIT: The "L" Terminal in Photoman's image calls for a white wire with yellow trace or a yellow wire with blue trace, but my 1998 LX470 actually had a yellow wire with white trace. All other terminals were the same colored wires as he showed on his 80 Series.

4. Between the alternator and the factory junction box, I replaced the factory 4/6 AWG wire with a new 2 AWG wire. My box had a 140a fuse in it, so I left it in there. Will keep an eye on it. EDIT: I also wired in a 2 AWG between my batteries' NEG and the block to ensure a good ground. I now have all 2 AWGs from alternator to junction to batteries, to Wrangler solenoid and Blue Sea manual switch, to winch, and to ground at two locations.

5. Took about five hours, with beer breaks and an errand.

6. Big thanks to Spressomon and MissoulaCruisa for the insights.

Leaving on a two-week, 1500 mile trip tomorrow. I'll try and remember to post a follow-up on how it's charging my three Odyssey PC1200s over the course of the trip.

Hope this helps.

Wes

 

[CentralOverland]

600 miles down today. So far so good on that factory 140a fuse.

Need some advice on something, though...

It is running at a lower voltage. It will charge at 13.9v during startup, sink as low as 13.2 at certain moments like at a red light, but spent most of the day at 13.5 on the open road. That said, it is generally steady, and does not fluctuate greatly in short periods of time. No jumpiness.

My old 80a alternator used to run at 14.1 to 14.2v at all times.

Facts: The Odyssey PC1200 batteries (x3) are new, resting at 12.7 to 12.8v when I check them in the morning. Yesterday, when I installed the alternator, I soldered in brass ring terminals at each end of the new 2 AWG power wire. The ground is also 2 AWG. (See post above.) My serp belt checks out good for alignment and tightness. Most pulleys were replaced last month when I did my timing belt––smooth bearings all around. No symptoms of low voltage showing in electronics. Everything else is normal.

Assumptions: I'm hopeful this low voltage is due to the new voltage regulator not sensing that the batteries need it, instead of the worse case, me getting a new alternator with a bad regulator.

Do you all have any experience with new alternators feeding voltage in the 13s instead of the conventional 14s? I am reading around the web that many newer cars run less voltage, but that's news to me. I always thought 14.2v was the standard.

Any feedback is appreciated.

Wes

 

[hoser]

FWIW, I'm running the Denso Sequoia 150A in my '98 and start-up voltage is 14.1-14.2 measured at the battery terminals.

 

[CentralOverland]

So I'm feeling better about voltage in the 13s after I called Denso and Odyssey today. Just sharing/documenting my experience with this upgrade here for others.

The tech guy at Denso says that it's not uncommon for their alternators to run in the 13s if they're sensing fully-charged batteries on the other end of the S wire. Many are designed to run at only 13.7v, however most will fluctuate between 13.0 and 14.8v at times given varying conditions. Basically, as long as I'm in that window at all times, he told me not to worry.

According to the tech guys at Odyssey, a PC1200 tested at 77° after a good night's rest is fully-charged at 12.8v. I passed that test on all three batteries as of this morning. They also said that almost no alternator on the market will maintain 100% state-of-charge on their batteries, which is why they recommend buying (of course) their 25 amp Ultimizer Charger and using it every few months to desulfate, bulk, and trickle their batteries back to 100%. (Good thing I already own one and have made that a practice for several years now.)

So long story short, after about 650 miles of driving in the three days since installing the alternator, and after confirming my batteries are still at 100%, I am confident that everything is working well.

I will continue to monitor and if anything changes I'll post in here again.

So far, so good, though, and I'm happy with the upgrade. (Knock on wood.)

Wes

 

[Odyseuss]

I'm sorry if I missed it in this thread, but what is the official Toyota part # for the Sequoia 150A alternators and what year Sequioa is it from?

 

[spressomon]

Wes, I'm not sure if the rectifier difference between the two alternator models might be a contributing factor or not to the charge voltage, but the Sequoia alt (and most early 100's) utilize avalanche style diodes in its rectifier.

Maybe someone of higher electrical knowledge can chime in.

Calling TrickyT: Where are you?!

 

[SmoothLC]

@TrickyT

He is now officially summoned.

 

[hoser]

I'm sorry if I missed it in this thread, but what is the official Toyota part # for the Sequoia 150A alternators and what year Sequioa is it from?

27060-0F040 130A
27060-0F050 150A

 

[Odyseuss]

Thanks.

 

[TrickyT]

Wes, I'm not sure if the rectifier difference between the two alternator models might be a contributing factor or not to the charge voltage, but the Sequoia alt (and most early 100's) utilize avalanche style diodes in its rectifier.

Maybe someone of higher electrical knowledge can chime in.

Calling TrickyT: Where are you?!

Dan, where did you hear that the Sequoia alternator uses avalanche diodes for rectification? Rectifying the inherent AC voltage produced by a alternator to produce high-current DC output is typically done with silicon power diodes. Avalanche diodes, which are also made of silicon but operate in reverse bias mode, are most often used as a voltage reference in electronic circuits or sometimes to suppress voltage transients in circuits. You can't use them as rectifiers because they cannot handle large currents. So there must be some misunderstanding here.