I did not remove any hoses but I did push on them quite a bit. That is a tight work area. The alternator was touching on everything as it slide out.
Alternator Replacement (5 Viewers)
- Thread starter Utahfj62
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
If you want some extra amps for charging the second and third battery as well as the camper check these out, they are expensive but with 210/320 amps max output and idle amps of 120/170 they sure pack a punch.
http://www.m2kinc.com/pdf/45-brochure.pdf
http://www.m2kinc.com/pdf/45-brochure.pdf
wow!
Good stuff hey!
Has anyone done this mod yet? Price? Longevity? I'm assuming that one needs to run a new (larger) hot lead back up to the battery to handle the additional ampacity of the alternator? What about the battery's ability to take a charge? Is there such a thing as charging too fast?
How many output amps do you need?
Gotta turn it into a hybrid somehow, right?
I think it's more about getting the hotel load discharge restored quickly than 100% duty cycle at full load.
But you could weld pretty nicely at 230 amps!
Don't the high amp alternators imherently wear faster due to their smaller pulleys making them spin faster?
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Wow. I wonder if there's a difference between the '98's and '00's? As I was laying under there pondering how to get a 6" diameter alternator out a 4.5" gap, Mrs G walks by to see how it's going. I say "Hey, you've had a baby, right? Maybe you have some ideas on this..." She was not amused.
There was no way this thing was coming out between the shroud and the tranny hard lines that run parallel to the frame. I ended up draining the coolant, removing both radiator hoses, and unbolting the overflow, top wire harness over radiator with AC hard line, and the shroud. With the shroud rotated up onto the PS fram rail, there was sufficient room for the alternator to drop out if you pushed it over towards the frame. Would have saved a lot of head-scratching time to just do this first as those steps are easy. No need to remove fan clutch and fan (thank goodness, those nuts never want to come loose).
So I did take the PS pulley off, and I'm waiting on a new one from Toyota tomorrow. Was a "black diamond", do not reuse part, so for $0.85, and $6 in gas, I'll be back on the road.
Props to Utahfj62 and uzj100, y'all should be OB/GYNs...
.85 cents for a ps pulley? What is a black diamond part? I reinstalled the pulley. Please let me know as I may need to replace mine. Thanks.
PS - I pushed really hard on all the lines, hoping nothing leaks. :<)
PS - I pushed really hard on all the lines, hoping nothing leaks. :<)
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Sorry, just the nut, not the pulley. FSM diagrams indicate non reusable parts with a black diamond symbol. Pulley can be used again obviously, but supposed to get a new nut. Not sure why.
- Thread starter
- #32
Ummm thanks....Strange to me how others have had to pull the power steering pulley. I had plenty of room to remove mine without removing the pulley. I just undid all the bolts on the alternator and swung it up and out of the way. I did have to squeeze it past the radiator hose - but it wasn't a big deal. Hardest part was getting the stupid plastic clip unhooked. It was full of dirt. Maybe there is a slight difference between the 98 and later models.
Either way it worked for me.
Maybe the 98 was an 80 amp model and the 2000 was 100 amp model.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
or more likely they changed the PS pulley diameter between those years. Mine would slide forward maybe 1/4" before the mounting tab with the nut would contact the back side of the PS pulley.
How much is the direct replacement alternator from the dealer?
I too am at 177,000 miles and I may just go ahead and swap mine out before it leaves me stranded somewhere.
I too am at 177,000 miles and I may just go ahead and swap mine out before it leaves me stranded somewhere.
Great idea. I did not realize how much noise the bearings were making. Basically a drone sound at the passenger side front of the vehicle.
I was quoted $314 from the dealer so I went to Advance and got a rebuilt 100 amp denso for $122.
I was quoted $314 from the dealer so I went to Advance and got a rebuilt 100 amp denso for $122.
AFAIK all the LC alternators from Toyota are reman. The Sequoia units are new but the LC units are reman. I doubt if Toyota actually does the rebuild process so in the end I'm not so sure sourcing a Denso from an auto parts store is any different and maybe better as some places offer longer warranties...
Most early 100's came with the 80amp unit with the 100amp being an option. I have not determined why a few were fitted with the 100amp. Trailer package possibly?
The tranny oil cooler is different on different year 100's. I had to remove the lower radiator hose and the tranny cooler line (PS) as well as the PS pulley to easily get the alternator out/in. I fought with it quite a while before I gave in and just removed those two hoses.
It was the bearing(s) that failed in my alternator; sounded like a turbo whine at lower rpm's. The electrical side was fine. But given its relatively low position its easy to see after hundred's of water/mud crossings why the bearings eventually give it up
.
Most early 100's came with the 80amp unit with the 100amp being an option. I have not determined why a few were fitted with the 100amp. Trailer package possibly?
The tranny oil cooler is different on different year 100's. I had to remove the lower radiator hose and the tranny cooler line (PS) as well as the PS pulley to easily get the alternator out/in. I fought with it quite a while before I gave in and just removed those two hoses.
It was the bearing(s) that failed in my alternator; sounded like a turbo whine at lower rpm's. The electrical side was fine. But given its relatively low position its easy to see after hundred's of water/mud crossings why the bearings eventually give it up
.
re_guderian
SILVER Star
Smart shopper price with discount was about $220. I figured the original lasted 180K, and very few get reported on here as having failed, so I went with the Toyota unit, which is just a reman'd Denso.
- Thread starter
- #39
My local dealership treats me great on prices, warranties and customer service. I only put OEM or stuff out of a Toyota box on my truck - such as the case with the alternator. Don't remeber the price.
I had the same issue as Spresso - bearing failure it started making noise and I knew it's time was short - plus the voltage dropped below 13amps and would never climb back up.
I had the same issue as Spresso - bearing failure it started making noise and I knew it's time was short - plus the voltage dropped below 13amps and would never climb back up.
FWIW, I replaced the alternator in my wife's 1999 LC. Pretty easy overall with the exception of disconnecting the dang connector from the back of the alternator. That took as long as everything else combined. As others have written, had to really wiggle on it, firmly but gently, to get it loose without damaging the wires. I had to disconnect a small mount for some hard lines that run below the radiator, but the old alternator slid out OK. Tight fit, but not enough to damage anything. The job is straightforward if you have the clearance and can get the connector off. Local mechanic wanted about $200 in labor + cost of alternator (wouldn't use one I'd bought). I got a rebuilt from NAPA and did it in about 2 hours.
Last edited:
