Alternator Replacement

[jhrrld]

What the hell Mr. T? Just replaced the alternator on my wife's 06 with 89K on the odo. I have well over 200K on my 4runner with multiple amps, electric fans, you name it and it's still kicking with the original one.

FWIW I was able to squeeze the 100amp version out the bottom without much effort: did not have to disconnect any of the trans cooler lines or radiator hoses. Like others have said just need to unbolt the power steering pump and tie her up out of the way.

 

[Chemical442]

I'm in the middle of replacing the alternator in my '06 GX and ran into the same problems many have encountered with the PS pump pulley. Just before I had to shut down for the night, I tried quickly to take the PS pulley off, but was having problems securing it from spinning on me. Came back to this thread and see some have reported unbolting the PS pump to make clearance? Could someone weigh in on the PS pump unbolting vs. pulley removal? It's friggen tight in there, and I'm trying to figure out which is the best way to attack from for tomorrow night. I'd like to cut out as much head scratching time as possible. It's hot here in Central IL right now, and I don't want to spend another day traveling in my T100 with no A/C (that's another project waiting to happen).

 

[re_guderian]

I'm in the middle of replacing the alternator in my '06 GX and ran into the same problems many have encountered with the PS pump pulley. Just before I had to shut down for the night, I tried quickly to take the PS pulley off, but was having problems securing it from spinning on me. Came back to this thread and see some have reported unbolting the PS pump to make clearance? Could someone weigh in on the PS pump unbolting vs. pulley removal? It's friggen tight in there, and I'm trying to figure out which is the best way to attack from for tomorrow night. I'd like to cut out as much head scratching time as possible. It's hot here in Central IL right now, and I don't want to spend another day traveling in my T100 with no A/C (that's another project waiting to happen).

Is this on the 4.7? Does your PS pulley have slots on the face of it, or is it solid? Mine had slots, and I put a socket extension through one and onto a bolt behiind it to keep the pulley from turning while loosening the pulley nut. Also, the pulley nut is a black-diamond (non re-usable) part according to the FSM.

If this is on a different engine for your GX and you posted this in the 100 forum by mistake, well then, just ignore what I said...

 

[Chemical442]

Is this on the 4.7? Does your PS pulley have slots on the face of it, or is it solid? Mine had slots, and I put a socket extension through one and onto a bolt behiind it to keep the pulley from turning while loosening the pulley nut. Also, the pulley nut is a black-diamond (non re-usable) part according to the FSM.

If this is on a different engine for your GX and you posted this in the 100 forum by mistake, well then, just ignore what I said...

Yep! It's a GX470, and I do have slots in the pulley. I had read somewhere in previous pages about it being a black diamond part, and didn't want to have to go messing with the stealership for another one. I just can't figure out why that would be not reusable...? Unless it's of a softer grade and once removed it's compromised? I was hoping to hear if anyone had loosened the PS pump out of the way and bypass the need to remove a non relaceable part. I had to quit last night before I got to assess the PS pump removal option. For all I know it's 10x's more work than I need to do.


Do you know if the PS pulley bolt is left handed, like the tension pulley was?

 

[schan1w]

Anyone know if you have to remove the fan clutch and shroud? I can't get the 4 fan clutch nuts off as the water pump pulley spins as I try to undo the nuts. The FSM says to remove the fan.

 

[Chemical442]

Anyone know if you have to remove the fan clutch and shroud? I can't get the 4 fan clutch nuts off as the water pump pulley spins as I try to undo the nuts. The FSM says to remove the fan.

The fan shroud was certainly in the way when I was up top releasing the tension on the idler pulley, and when removing the power steering pump pulley, and down at the bottom when I was trying to twist and turn the alt into weird positions to sneak it out. ...but I got all that done without removing the fan shroud or fan.

 

[schan1w]

The fan shroud was certainly in the way when I was up top releasing the tension on the idler pulley, and when removing the power steering pump pulley, and down at the bottom when I was trying to twist and turn the alt into weird positions to sneak it out. ...but I got all that done without removing the fan shroud or fan.

Hi Chem - awesome!!! Thanks for the info. I was really dreading removing the fan and shroud. So you removed the PS pump pulley?? The FSM says to remove the whole PS pump and swing it out of the way. Which is easier? Removing the pulley only or removing the whole pump. I haven't tried yet, but would seem that removing the whole pump and swinging it out of the way would be easier, no? Any other tips?

I also have a GX470 (an 07 with 80K) and am surprised the alternator died already.

 

[Chemical442]

Hi Chem - awesome!!! Thanks for the info. I was really dreading removing the fan and shroud. So you removed the PS pump pulley?? The FSM says to remove the whole PS pump and swing it out of the way. Which is easier? Removing the pulley only or removing the whole pump. I haven't tried yet, but would seem that removing the whole pump and swinging it out of the way would be easier, no? Any other tips?

I also have a GX470 (an 07 with 80K) and am surprised the alternator died already.

Hey, no problem. The shroud just left my right forearm bruised. I'd take a bruise over the time and hassle of removing the shroud any day.

The power steering pump pulley removal was just as easy as binding it up with a socket extension through the pulley holes and backing it off. I know, from the earlier posts here, that this bolt holding the pulley on is a black diamond part, meaning it's to be replaced and not reused but I didn't see a damn thing special about it that would make me think it needs replaced. it wasn't conical shaped, didn't have directional burrs or stoppers or anything out of the ordinary. Just looked like another bolt, so I reused it, and that was about 600 miles ago and it's running just fine.

Rerunning the serpentine belt was a since but pulling down the tensioner pulley while pulling the belt into place was tricky. I ended up doing a pull up with my hand on the tension pulley in order to get it to come down enough for me to place the belt onto the new alt pulley at he same time.

Getting the old alt out was the hardest part for me. I found it best to remove the bolt holding the hard to soft lines to the top of the crossmember so I could move the lines out of the way, and bringing the alt down between the cross member and the part of the bottom of the shroud where it curves in to the radiator a little bit.

Just for fun, after I was done, I called my local Lexus, then my local Toyota dealer. $677.86 at Lexus versus $597.13 at Toyota versus $135.00 at Autozone and a few hours on my back in my garage.

Good luck!

 

[bluecruiser]

My alternator started making the dreaded whining noise. I am assuming original (have not looked yet) and it has 215K miles on it. I noticed a low voltage reading on the cluster gauge and after the truck sat for a week, no start. When I did get it started the alternator was making a crazy noise. I have read everything from 1 hour to 4 hours to get this done. Hopefully, I can hit the middle of that target....that would be nice. I appreciate the tips offered in this thread, I expect they will help me out.

 

[re_guderian]

My alternator started making the dreaded whining noise. I am assuming original (have not looked yet) and it has 215K miles on it. I noticed a low voltage reading on the cluster gauge and after the truck sat for a week, no start. When I did get it started the alternator was making a crazy noise. I have read everything from 1 hour to 4 hours to get this done. Hopefully, I can hit the middle of that target....that would be nice. I appreciate the tips offered in this thread, I expect they will help me out.

Good luck. Knowing what I know now, it would save time right off the bat to just remove the lower radiator hose and make room. You'll spend an inordinate amount of time dorking with trying to remove the old one...

 

[schan1w]

I have a GX470 (2UZFE also), so yours may be slightly different, but I just did this a few weeks ago. There is a trim piece (really just a sheet of fabric, not really a plastic trim piece) under the right fender well, that if you remove this fabric, you have direct access to the connector on the rear of the alternator as well as the nut/cable on the body of the alternator from inside the wheel well (you'll need to turn your wheel to make room to slide inside the wheel well). I only needed to remove the skid plate and did not remove anything else other than a few hose clamps to make more room to remove the alternator. The alternator bolts can be removed from the top or the bottom (some bolts are easier from the top, one of them easier from the bottom). I slide the alternator out while turning it every which way until it sliped out (don't know how, it took forever to get it out).

 

[jonharis]

If you want some extra amps for charging the second and third battery as well as the camper check these out, they are expensive but with 210/320 amps max output and idle amps of 120/170 they sure pack a punch.
http://www.m2kinc.com/pdf/45-brochure.pdf

Has anyone tried one of these yet?

 

[Anthony.L]

I don't think anyone has pony'd up the coin. I seem to remember looking them up and they were in the $600-800 range...

 

[MissoulaCruisa]

EDIT:

Thanks to Christo/Ben/Joe at Slee for the good info:

Connector: 90980-11349
Splices: 82998-12440

Thanks guys.

Just picked an '03-07 Sequoia 150 amp Alternator for my '99 UZJ100 ... and Connector 90980-11349 from local Toyota Dealer ... see attached ... this is the WRONG connector! Local parts guy can't find the correct plug except as part of complete harness ... #$&@!!

Any help with a good part # or sourcing info? Of course the orig Alt in the LC has croaked and I'm outta commission til I get this resolved! D'oh!

 

[MissoulaCruisa]

The correct connector part number is apparently 90980-11964 per Photomon

(see Post: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...&postcount=215

From this thread: https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-te...ml#post6200062 )

Thanks spressomon and Beno for helping with this!

 

[MissoulaCruisa]

Update

Installation of Sequoia 150-amp Alt in my LX470 completed successfully! So far so good, its charging and running great.

Followed the instructions from https://forum.ih8mud.com/100-series-cruisers/409471-alternator-replacement.html and from Spressoman's 80-series installation thread ( https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/206807-upgrading-stock-alternator-130-150-amp.html ) and got it done in an afternoon.

I had to unbolt the PS pulley, not sure how some other posters were able to get their Alt out without doing that step. But didn't have to do anything with the radiator or hoses to snake the old Alt out the bottom -- except bruise up my right hand!

That connector was a *****! Pretty much destroyed the old one trying to pry it out, but that wasn't a problem because the new connector had to be installed to fit the Sequoia Alt. It looked like it had loctite or something like that in it (some kind of blue stuff).

The wires were different colors than shown on the Spressoman thread (and I could not find my FSM Wiring book, @#$%!), but if you pay attention to which wires were on which pins, the connections were the same order as shown on the Spressoman thread, and the old stock Alt had a pin diagram on the i.d. plate.

The new 4-ga power wire, fuse, and fuse holder were easily sourced from local car stereo shop, about $50 total for 10' of wire (needed about 9'), fuse, fuse holder, and connectors. I ran the new power wire on the same route as the old, used zip ties to piggy back it on the old cables.

I did not mess with the stock wiring. I simply ran a new, extra, 4-ga fused power line with 180-amp fuse.

I'll let you all know if any problems come up.

 

[ppressle]

I'd like to thank the forum for their collective wisdom. With the help here I just completed putting a 100 amp alt in a 99 cruiser in about 2 hours.

I couldn't (easily) get the alternator out the bottom without removing the fan shroud.

I found that I was able to remove the alternator most easily by going up and past the air filter rather than out the bottom.

The unused stud on the alternator was a bit in the way as I pulled the alt, so I'd recommend removing the stud asap to make it easier to get the alt out. I pulled the stud on the new alt before I put in (100 amp from a 2002) and it went in very easily.

I also recommend pulling the ps pulley and unmounting the ps pump to get clear access to the alt wiring.

Thanks,
Pete

 

[ppressle]

removed dup.

 

[adrenalinefjz80]

I had to unbolt the transmission line bracket to get enough space flexing all the lines for the alternator to drop out. My old alt was a 100 amp on my 99. I bought a 100 amp before knowing this given its the better and cheaper option then the 80 amp part.

I also replaced the idler pulley as PM. I'm glad I did after looking at it. Dealer already replaced the tensioner last year. I had a whine noise, which was coming from alt bearing. She is smooth and quiet now! Even likes to rev easier

 

[bharris]

Came home from a long trip to the east coast....LX fired right up in the long-term parking but the discharge light was on. Ordered a new (reman) from my Toyota dealer (get great pricing there). Unfortunately ended up having to pull my owner radiator hose to take out the old and put in the new. Heck of a job if your arms are bigger than a broomstick. For reference, mine is a 99 LX with 286,000.