Alternator Replacement (2 Viewers)

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Odyseuss said:
I am prepared to go with the ANL style but if I could use the OE housing, it would be nice. I wonder if the OE fusible link design might not be capable or appropriate for amperage higher than 150A.

Here is a picture of the fuse design that I am referring to. The blue 100A fuse is shown because that was the largest one that I had on hand as a spare.

View attachment 1080280
Click to expand...

I spoke with an electrical engineer friend about the rating of that factory fuse, and he said that it really didn't need changing. All it needed was the factory amperage rating, as it's based on what was being drawn by the factory distribution block. (On the opposite side of the fuse from where the battery plugs in.)

His statement was something like, "your battery won't *push*more amps through that fuse... it's only what's on the other end of it *pulling* that will affect it... and you haven't changed anything there, so the factory fuse will be fine."

So I left it alone. All is well after about 900 miles.

Hope this helps.
 
I appreciate your input, and it is great that it is working for you, but my needs may be different. If the OE fuse rating is sufficient then that would be nice but I wonder if there are times when I might exceed it and need a larger capacity fuse.

Well I am looking to replace my alternator because my charging voltage is often 13.5v or below. With several loads running it will drop below 13v measured at the alternator. I am planning to upgrade to the 150A version because, I am already looking to change the alternator, and I am running more loads than the vehicle was originally equipped with. Such as dual batteries which I will charge together at times, additional lights, a winch, a 12v oven, air compressor, fridge and probably more stuff down the road. obviously I'm not using all this stuff all the time or even all at the same time, but non the less there is potential for more amperage draw than stock.

It seems like most of the users installing higher amp alternators are using higher amp fuses for some reason.

It doesn't seem like the battery is "pushing anything through that fuse, but rather drawing what loads are drawing from it to maintain a charge and the alternator is pushing that current into the battery through that fuse to compensate. Most of the time that amperage draw isn't very high, but at times there could be enough load to require more amperage to be delivered from the alternator. So I could turn on all my loads and measure the current draw, (though the largest load from the winch would be hard to determine with out testing with the winch under load, or measuring with discharged batteries which would draw more load) and get a fuse that meets that amount, but I want to plan for the maximum amperage that my alternator could deliver as opposed to what I am normally drawing from it. Now I would expect that the fuse should at least match the rated output for the alternator which is probably more than I will ever draw from it, but if the alternator has the potential to push more current than it is rated for, maybe I should anticipate that output when selecting my fusible link.

Sorry for the long winded banter, but I would appreciate any more reasoning that explains why I should not select a higher amperage fuse for the higher amperage alternators or what size seems to be the most appropriate.
 
My 1999 TLC UZJ100 is up to 189K and I'm hearing the whine from the bearings and seeing the voltage drops... all similar to other posts in this thread. I was planning to change the alternator out this weekend and when I contacted my local dealer to find out the cost and stock level, he asked if I had the 80A or 100A alternator. I didn't know as I just purchased it a few months ago. Without factory installed towing he thought it would likely be the 80A, but suggested I look on the existing one. Both the local dealer and NAPA indicated I should replace with the OE amperage and not install the 100A if I only have an 80A currently. Based on this thread, I don't understand why they would say that, other than for CYA/legal reasons.

I did my best to take a look at it, short of actually removing it, but couldn't see any part numbers or labels on it. I even used my iphone to record a video from angles it can be in, but my eyes can't. No luck.

Is there a different connector between the 80A and 100A?
Is there a way to identify which alternator I have w/o pulling it?

One other thing I noticed while looking for a replacement... carparts.com has an 80A OE direct fit alternator (w/o adapter harness) for ~$20 + 11 shipping (includes 1yr/unlimited miles warranty) and they go up from there. I'll probably end up with something in the $150 range from a local store so I can get it installed tomorrow. I'd almost be scared to buy the $20 alternator as it seems too cheap.

Thanks for the feedback, as well as all the time y'all have invested in this forum!
 
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Well, that was a PITA. From my previous post, I took a chance the connectors were the same between the 80A and 100A alternator and purchased a 100A at a local autoparts store for $125 +/-. When I had the part far enough out I could see a label, I looked it up and it was a 100A, so that worked out ok. Following are some thoughts on my experience.

1. I tried removing the PS Pulley, but couldn't get the right leverage on it and didn't want to break it, so I ended up removing the 3 bolts to the PS unit (14mm socket through the PS pulley holes), and it came off much easier than dealing with the pulley. Not to mention, I don't have to buy the special non-reusable pulley nut. Once out, I slipped a small tie-down bungee around the air filter housing to secure it from dropping, but allowing me to shift it around.

2. Try as I might, there was no way the ALT was coming out w/o taking out at least the radiator. So I basically followed the Chilton service manual I have, except pulled the entire PS unit and I didn't have to remove the fan. I removed the engine cover, skid plate, air filter assembly, radiator overflow, battery, and plastic battery floor plate.

3. Knowing I had to remove the radiator, I also checked the manual on the procedures to remove it... I drained the coolant using the small stopcock valve at the bottom of the radiator, but couldn't find the other two back further on the engine. I ended up with ~3.5 gal of coolant. I couldn't find anything regarding the 2 smaller A/T lines that connect to the lower housing of the radiator. The tubes compressed easily, so I hoped they wouldn't have much fluid in them. I wasn't sure what to expect. Sure enough, it was A/T fluid and I ended up rolling up a piece of paper to ~cigarette size and stuffing it in the host so it wouldn't leak. After that, the radiator came out pretty easily. I had enough room after disconnecting the fan shroud to push it back over the fan enough to get the bottom hose connectors past it. Once the radiator was off, I pulled the shroud out through the gap left by the radiator.

4. The most difficult part was trying to hold the alternator up off the fuel lines in a position to remove the two connectors. I had a hard time even getting the cap off the one connector that uses a bolt. In the end I put my bottle jack on a 4x4 block and jacked it up enough so it would hold the weight, but allow be to swing it around and access the back. I had to use a pair of angled pliers and a small regular screwdriver to hold the clip and slowly try to get under the edge to pry it up. I finally got it, but the wires in there seems pretty tiny and I'm hoping I didn't slice into the out layer with the pliers.

5. If I have to do it again... which I may if I decide to tackle the timing belt later this summer, I would be able to pull it all apart in an hour. This first time took me closer to 5 hrs. It took me roughly an hour to get everything put back together. Purchased the appropriate coolant (not premixed) and read somewhere it's a good idea to use distilled water for the other half. I couldn't find any reference to this so was going to use straight tap water.

I got about 1.5 gal of coolant back in the radiator and it appeared to be full, so I never was able to get any water in. I read to press on the tubes and then start the vehicle to let it warm up, then stop and let it cool down and add any additional fluid as needed until the overflow reservoir is at the right level. I'm waiting for it to cool as I type this.
Another strange thing I noticed when I first turned the key to the on position, prior to restarting. the small metal housing up near the DS firewall, related to brakes, was vibrating and buzzing. As my battery was low, I had it on a charger for a few days, out of the vehicle. After starting the vehicle, the buzzing stopped.

And finally, I now have a check engine light on. I'll swing down to an autozone a little later and use their reader to see what the code is. I wanted to make sure the alternator is pushing the 14.2V w/load and the coolant has some water added. I'm not sure what would happen if I ran it too concentrated... not that I couldn't open the stopcock again and take out 1/2 gallon and replace that with water.

I'll update again once I know more on these few issues and concerns, but if anyone has an idea about the buzzing brake thing, it would put my mind at ease to know what it is.

Thanks!
 
Justin Alderson said:
I got about 1.5 gal of coolant back in the radiator and it appeared to be full, so I never was able to get any water in. I read to press on the tubes and then start the vehicle to let it warm up, then stop and let it cool down and add any additional fluid as needed until the overflow reservoir is at the right level. I'm waiting for it to cool as I type this.
Another strange thing I noticed when I first turned the key to the on position, prior to restarting. the small metal housing up near the DS firewall, related to brakes, was vibrating and buzzing. As my battery was low, I had it on a charger for a few days, out of the vehicle. After starting the vehicle, the buzzing stopped.

And finally, I now have a check engine light on. I'll swing down to an autozone a little later and use their reader to see what the code is. I wanted to make sure the alternator is pushing the 14.2V w/load and the coolant has some water added. I'm not sure what would happen if I ran it too concentrated... not that I couldn't open the stopcock again and take out 1/2 gallon and replace that with water.
Click to expand...

Re: coolant. Of all the silly things to forget, I didn't turn on the heater so I'm thinking there must be an air pocket. I ended up running heat while checking the load voltage across the battery. Let it run for ~10min and radiator was nice and toasty so I'll let it cool down and check the level in the morning. I'll edit this post as necessary.

Re: alternator voltage test. The battery was at 12.7 prior to starting. After starting, it jumped to 14.18 - 14.2 (+/-). When I created a load (lights + fogs, cd, heater in front and back, seat heaters ,etc.), the voltage dropped down to 14.07, then almost immediately climbed back up to 14.2. Based on these results, I'm feeling good about the alternator install.

Re: Buzzing brake "canister". Referenced in this forum is the "pressure accumulator for the brake system". Needless to say it was the first time I've heard it and a new noise like that is not what I wanted to hear at that moment.

Re: Check engine light. I ran down to the local autoparts store before they closed this evening and viewed the following diagnostic codes (via Bosch scanner):
1. C1241 [current] :: Power Source Voltage Down
2. P0100 [history] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit
3. P0101 [history] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
4. P0110 [history] :: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
5. P0100 [current] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit
6. P0101 [current] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
7. P0110 [current] :: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
8. P0100 [confirmed] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit
9. P0101 [confirmed] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
10. P0110 [confirmed] :: Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit
11. P0101 [pending] :: Mass Or Volume Air Flow A Circuit Range / Performance
​
On #1, I'm guessing that's due to the faulty alternator and/or low battery voltage prior to recharging it. For all the remaining codes, I went back through and checked all the connectors and vacuum hoses associated with the Air Filter assembly and discovered I forgot to plug in the multi-pin connector that connects to the assembly closest to the actual air filter. I'm not sure if it's better to unplug the battery to reset the codes or wait whatever time/trips it takes for the computer to catch up.

Sorry for the book, I hope it helps someone down the road.

[UPDATE] I left the battery connected and decided to sleep on it. When I fired it up the next morning, no check engine light. I haven't gone back in with the scanner, so that doesn't mean there aren't some codes still there, but I'm guessing none are current, confirmed or pending. Regarding the coolant issue, I've tried opening it up when it's cool, but as soon as I break that 2nd level on the cap, I get overflow all over the top of the radiator. The coolant level in the overflow container has gone down a bit though, so I'll monitor that and try to check the level again in a few days. [/UPDATE]
 
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Knowing that my alternator had been getting weak over the last couple of months, I ordered a 180 amp HO alternator from DC Power Engineering two weeks ago. It is set to deliver tomorrow.

Well, last Monday my alternator died completely. I ended up putting in a $122 from Napa the day it died to get me back and forth to work until the DC Power one comes in. I am calling that a practice run and it took me about 4 hours and I did have to pull the power steering pulley which was simple. When I install the new HO alternator this weekend I am sure I could do it in under 2 hours but I will be running new 2awg charging cable and a dedicated 2awg alternator ground at the same time. I will be doing a lot of other wiring too.
 
I did NOT mod/trim any mounting bracket for the Sequoia 150A alternator to fit into my '98.
 
Thanks for the quick response Hoser. I just received my DC Power Engineering 180 amp alternator that is supposed to be a direct bolt on and it has the third bracket. It has the correct wiring harness adapter. I was afraid they had shipped the wrong one and would have been worried and waiting to call them when they open in the morning if you hadn't responded so quickly.
 
After installing your 150A Sequoia alternators, have you guys had any problems with the main fuse block heating up? (The one where the alternator B wire attaches.) Mine heated up to the point that it melted the plastic housing and I had to replace the entire block. (Part #
82620-60010)

If you'll remember, I went from the 80A to the 150A this spring, and upgraded to 2AWG throughout wire to support it. It seems that a weak link, in terms of resistance to that new current, is within this big fuse block. I have attached a photo for clarity. (Not my truck, but the wiring is the same.)

The yellow circle is the alternator B wire, bringing the 150 amp current straight from the alternator. The red circle is the wire that heats up so badly now. Let's call it the "X wire." It is directly connected to the B wire using a factory metal bus (little steel plate), and carries that unfused alternator power into the large factory distribution block. (Which I think is weird. Unfused current to the fuse block??)

So the way I see it is, I have two options, which is why I'm here. I'd like feedback.

1. I can beef up the X wire with a new ring terminal and larger AWG. This would demand digging into the factory distro block, a task I'm not excited about.

2. I can wire the alternator's B wire directly to the battery post with a ~175 amp ANL inline. This would permit the X wire to draw its current from the battery after taking it across the factory 140 amp "ALT" fuse, instead of drawing it straight from the B wire across that bus as it does now. (Hopefully, it would reduce the amps and therefore reduce the heat?)

I prefer doing number 2. That seems cleanest to me. So is it bad to wire an alternator directly to a battery post? (With a large inline fuse, of course.)

Any input is appreciated.

Wes

IMG_7063.JPG
 
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Has anybody ever heard of a 130Amp alternator? I have an 2006 with AHC and the local Toyota dealership said it was an 130Amp alternator...I'm in Canada (US imported vehicle) and I'm almost afraid they are not ordering the correct part...especially since Land Cruisers are not sold here in Canada so garages dont see them very often.
 
Just called the closest USA dealership in Northern Maine to see if they would say anyting different and they said the same thing, 130Amps...
 
Early 100's came with 80A; 100A with trailer package. Later models ('03+ IIRC) came with 130A but different plug style.
 
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May be cheaper to order a U.S. alternator in the lower 48 and ship up there than ordering from your dealer.
Albeit, that my be dependent upon the Canadian/U.S. dollar exchange rate...
 
I've just tested my alt and its toast. (2007 LX with 80k miles) I can't seem to find a denso replacement locally and had found the alt agaisin linked to before seeing his post. I guess I'm a little anxious about buying parts like this online. How would you warranty the part should it go bad while under coverage? Should I not be concerned about ordering it online?


Here is what I found:
Mr. Toyota = $368 + core (in stock)
NAPA = $169 + core (denver)
AutoZone = $160 + core (in stock)
RockAuto Denso= $120 + core (next friday)
Amazon Denso = $200 not sure on core (could be here Tueday)
 
I guess I never posted up my alternator R&R experience. Penny is a 2000 100. It took me about 7 hours in a very, very hot apartment basement with frequent breaks.

I ordered two lifetime warranty alternators from Advance Autoparts. I was right to do this because one did not have the correct mounting holes and one had a buggered pulley. I had also gotten a nut from Beno at some point for some reason so I swapped the pulleys.

I did not have to do anything with the radiator. I took one bolt off that secured the P clamp that held the metal transmission cooling lines up front. It was a bugger to get the plug off the old alternator and get the alternator out from the bottom but it came out. I did damage the plug a bit but it is on and holds fine. I added considerable dialectic grease on reinstall. I removed the front right wheel to allow access to the alternator through the wheel well and took the PS pump loose to allow the alternator to slide off the upper mounting bolt.

It sucked under my conditions but I am now convinced I could do this on the road if I had too.

BTW. Before going with Advance Auto Parts junk I priced SBC High Output Alternators. Running a dual battery set up and a bunch of accessories it seemed like a good idea but after speaking with some folks more knowledgeable than myself, it was clear I could not justify the expense for something like that. Especially when the Advance one has a lifetime warranty. As my alternator has been submerged in water plenty, I would not want to ruin an expensive SBC that way.

For everyone's info the the SBC 100 series alternators price like this:

SBC-T4.7-250XP is $850
SBC-T4.7-270XP is $875

As you can see there is only a $25 difference between the two models and you get an extra 20 amps at driving speed and an extra 10 amps at idle.

Probably well worth it for some but not me. I do not have a welder on board.

My Advance was like $150.
 
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