@stoshzack, that's correct. Combine the Tank and Vent Control Valve (VCV) lines into the lower (Tank) port of the new canister and run the Purge line as it is on the original canister.
Aftermarket charcoal canister
- Thread starter HemiAlex
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
Wow this is just what I needed. my 83 fj60 has that "swoosh" noise and a very corroded canister
What are the effects of the canister not working properly?
For me it was a pressurized fuel tank and then fuel spilling out of my gas filler area. Sucked. For a temp fix I just swapped the hoses on the canister, and that stopped the pressurizing of the tank. But I recently did this “upgrade” as well. My canister failed the tests per the FSM, but my valve on the outside of the canister seems to test good. So far, no pressurized tank any more. Although I did notice that valve gets rather hot after the truck is running for a while. The way I understand it, through the ignition circuit it stays open, so is that why it’s hot (always using power to stay open)?
I was having the swoosh as well and just swapped the two same size hoses on top of the OEM CC to bypass the internal check valve. No more pressure build-up. It took less than one minute, cost me $0 and the amount of fumes and fuel smell I get with the CC routed this way is negligible.
The EVAP intake pipe at the base of the carb sucks (a lot of) air from the charcoal canister while driving. This is a significant 'vacuum leak' that had been accounted for with the carb jet sizing to get a correct A/F ratio.
When the charcoal canister hoses are swapped, the EVAP system no longer works and no air gets sucked in at the base of the carb. This won't hurt the engine, but it will run richer than ideal and mpg will take a hit to some degree. As to how much? I don't know.
A better option than swapping is to connect the tank hose to the vent pipe on the CC (swap) but remove the vent hose and insert a little fuel filter or air filter in it so that the EVAP system will still be able to suck air, just not from the cc.
When the charcoal canister hoses are swapped, the EVAP system no longer works and no air gets sucked in at the base of the carb. This won't hurt the engine, but it will run richer than ideal and mpg will take a hit to some degree. As to how much? I don't know.
A better option than swapping is to connect the tank hose to the vent pipe on the CC (swap) but remove the vent hose and insert a little fuel filter or air filter in it so that the EVAP system will still be able to suck air, just not from the cc.
land crusher
Morgen, morgen nur nicht heute...
So, I asked my brother if he had one of these GM canisters in his parts pile. He sent me one, but it's not this style. It has a vac port on top of both the tank and purge ports (what looks like built in vac controlled valves). Has anyone used one like this? Is it work trying to make it work?
Is the autozone part number the same as the delco part? AC Delco 215-153.
My engine is desmogged and believe that my canister is still working properly but pretty rusted. When I remove the gas cap there is a lot of, guessing negative pressure as it’s sucking air in not pushing it out. Is this the pressure issues you all are speaking of?
My engine is desmogged and believe that my canister is still working properly but pretty rusted. When I remove the gas cap there is a lot of, guessing negative pressure as it’s sucking air in not pushing it out. Is this the pressure issues you all are speaking of?
If there's a strong vacuum on the tank when the gas cap is cracked open, the gas cap is faulty. The cap has a one way valve built into it (the Toyota cap). It prevents air from escaping the tank, but allows air to enter.
☝ ih8mud comes to the rescue again. Thanks @roadstr6. My 84 fj60 sputtered out on my way to work. Noticed a hard idle and decrease in rpms when pressing down on the accelerator. Recently had a numbskull overflow my tank at a Fred Meyer (here in Oregon where I can NOT pump my own gas). Long story short, I interchanged the two hoses as you suggested and voila! Plan on replacing the charcoal canister at some point and will be getting new hoses.
Thanks
Hi everyone, i just got an 87 fj60 desmoged and noticed that it doesn't have a charcoal canister... looking through other threads ACDelco 215-153 GM Original Equipment Vapor Canister is being recommended, i want to try it out, I am getting tons of gas smell and saw in a thread that this is the issue, looking at vc120 it has 3 ports, 1 is plugged and 2 are open, what hoses do i connect to it, where should they be coming from?
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
All the information you need is in the earlier posts to this thread.
Ugh I have GOT to do this on my 62. My OEM canister is absolutely shot. Though I haven't tried the Berryman B-12 trick yet.....
I think this is the one installed. I'll take couple of pics after work and post for reference.
That same symptom is present on 62s as well. My tank was getting way overpressurized. I did the line swap on the check valve before my tank ruptured. Going to try the Berryman B-12 trick in the check valve and see if that frees it up. If that don't go I'm swapping in a Delco unit.
Last edited:
mattressking
10 digits to freedom
Before people go to town tearing these apart. I highly recommend cycling a small dribble of carb cleaner into the port with the check ball...cycling with some pressure and vacuum usually frees it up and then will function as designed.
Gretsch
SILVER Star
Great thread here. Started getting the Whoosh on mine so the recent updates to the thread are very timely for me. Good stuff.
To further confuse you folks.
If you don’t want raw fuel vapor into your carb or efi when you start or stop it add a tee on the vacuum advance line to the Delphi canister then add a check valve that will only let canister purge happen off idle.
Once off idle extra gas fumes won't hurt anything, especially FI, because the oxygen sensor sees what the ratio is and the injection of fuel could technically be altered quick enough that you never have any significant change in air fuel ratio in the cylinders.
If you don’t want raw fuel vapor into your carb or efi when you start or stop it add a tee on the vacuum advance line to the Delphi canister then add a check valve that will only let canister purge happen off idle.
Once off idle extra gas fumes won't hurt anything, especially FI, because the oxygen sensor sees what the ratio is and the injection of fuel could technically be altered quick enough that you never have any significant change in air fuel ratio in the cylinders.
