Aftermarket charcoal canister (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

Also, the factory cap is vent style but not very good once you start having pressure issues.

You can take it apart and add a little hole here and turbo your venting.

Gas won’t slosh out but you will notice more fumes if you stand my the fill area with the truck running

 

[Spook50]

To further confuse you folks.

If you don’t want raw fuel vapor into your carb or efi when you start or stop it add a tee on the vacuum advance line to the Delphi canister then add a check valve that will only let canister purge happen off idle.

Once off idle extra gas fumes won't hurt anything, especially FI, because the oxygen sensor sees what the ratio is and the injection of fuel could technically be altered quick enough that you never have any significant change in air fuel ratio in the cylinders.

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View attachment 2081365

I think that's the same valve (well same function) that's there from the factory on 62s, and for the exact same reason you explained.

 

[OSS]

You can take it apart and add a little hole here and turbo your venting

well I did that in the past... and it's not recommended. I learned the hard way. Here's what happens...

In Baja MX, the gas station attendants always fill the tank to the tippy top brim (which isn't recommended by Toyota). The top of the filler pipe is above the charcoal canister. When a hole is drilled into the gas cap to allow a free flow vent, a siphon will develop a couple miles down the road after you've left the gas station as the fuel expands from the sloshing. The end of the siphon is the charcoal canister, and once it gets flowing it starts gushing out the bottom of the canister. Since so much liquid gasoline is flowing into the canister, it chokes the EVAP system and the manifold ends up sucking liquid fuel through the venting pipe. All this excessive fuel chokes the engine and it literally can't run if you press down on the gas pedal past the advancer port (just small pressure on gas pedal). It'll idle fine, since the EVAP system is off at idle, but once you step in the gas to drive - bogs.

This could happen at a most inconvenient time... Driving up a narrow mountain road with cars following, getting stuck in traffic, a really bad area of town.. Etc.

So although it can be prevented by not overfilling the gas tank, my experience with the drilled cap was negative- it will also allow a lot of dirt into the tank when driving on dusty dirt roads

 

[wngrog]

This particular hole still is covered by the handle on the cap. No way for dirt to get in.

As for the other scenario.

I’d rather have that one in a million versus pressure in my 35 year old gas tank

 

[NotoriousJJE]

So my tank has negative pressure when it goes to empty. That’s gas cap related or charcoal can related?

 

[Big Timber]

can't have negative pressure unless there's a leak. Don't run the tank empty. Start with the gas cap. Fill it up and if, after you run the tank down to half, you open the cap and hear a swoosh sound (pressure relieving), then your canister needs replacing.

 

[joebattle1]

Before people go to town tearing these apart. I highly recommend cycling a small dribble of carb cleaner into the port with the check ball...cycling with some pressure and vacuum usually frees it up and then will function as designed.

I did exactly what @mattressking said here on mine. Workers great again.

 

[Spook50]

So here's something funny. This last summer I pulled my factory charcoal canister and the valve that mounts on top. Checked the valve and function was good. Checked the canister and nothing flowed any direction. Spritzed some B12 Chemtool though the check valve ports, gave it a minute to soften up the buildup, then blew some air through it and bit by bit it began letting air through. I repeated a few times and it ended up working good as new. Here's the weird part though. The ports on top of the canister are labeled, but it works exactly the opposite of how they're labeled. So I reinstalled it and hooked it up so it works right (ie: reverse of how the ports on the canister are labeled), and haven't had any issue since. Economy is good, no fumes anywhere at any time, no excess pressure when I release the fuel cap (got a new one about that time too), and no more sloshing down the side of my quarter panel from a leaky cap. I also don't top it off like crazy when I fill up. Just one extra click on the filler nozzle. All is well in the land of my evap system again.

Now I just hope whenever I have to do my fuel pump the tube assembly on top isn't falling apart.....

 

[NotoriousJJE]

can't have negative pressure unless there's a leak. Don't run the tank empty. Start with the gas cap. Fill it up and if, after you run the tank down to half, you open the cap and hear a swoosh sound (pressure relieving), then your canister needs replacing.

Man mine certainly has negative pressure (ie sucking air when I open the gas cap) Have never noticed a fuel leak.

 

[PF]

Seems like a common issue. I've got the hoses switched on my 62. It works better right now, but I would like to find a more permanent solution. I found this Standard Motor Products CP3029. It's damn near identical in appearance to the 62 cans. The top ports are different sizes and I don't have actual dimensions. Anyone tried one of these?

 

[Spike Strip]

Seems like a common issue. I've got the hoses switched on my 62. It works better right now, but I would like to find a more permanent solution. I found this Standard Motor Products CP3029. It's damn near identical in appearance to the 62 cans. The top ports are different sizes and I don't have actual dimensions. Anyone tried one of these?

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Did you ever try this Canister ?

 

[PF]

Did you ever try this Canister ?

Since you brought it up, I just put one on order. Amazon, of course. At $189 it wasn't cheap, but it can be returned if it really won't work. I'll post a full comparison in about two weeks.

 

[PF]

I bought this CP3029 charcoal canister. Not a good choice. I pulled mine for comparison. As you can see, size wise it isn't even close. FJ62 canister is 4.8in diameter and over 6in tall. CP3029 is 4.1in diameter and 4.6in tall. The CP3029 does not pass the FSM test. I don't know if I got a defective one brand new, but when you put low pressure compressed air in the "to tank" port air comes out the bottom port but nothing comes out the "purge" port. I put mine back in and reversed the hoses because it works better that way.

 

[Spike Strip]

Thanks for posting - That's good info.

 

[S.CarolinaFZJ80]

I bought this CP3029 charcoal canister. Not a good choice. I pulled mine for comparison. As you can see, size wise it isn't even close. FJ62 canister is 4.8in diameter and over 6in tall. CP3029 is 4.1in diameter and 4.6in tall. The CP3029 does not pass the FSM test. I don't know if I got a defective one brand new, but when you put low pressure compressed air in the "to tank" port air comes out the bottom port but nothing comes out the "purge" port. I put mine back in and reversed the hoses because it works better that way.

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View attachment 2267659

That small CC might be a good choice for a small aux fuel tank.

 

[A62]

For those of you who put the VC120 in your 60, how did you accomodate the wider diameter to fit the mounts? I bought longer bolts for the brackets, and they work great. But the extra width doesn't allow the bracket holes to line up with the mount holes in the engine bay, at least as far as I can tell. Right now I'm zip tied in, but I'm not super comfortable with it, even though it's in there tight. Ideas?
Thanks.

 

[89BIGBLUE]

For those of you who put the VC120 in your 60, how did you accomodate the wider diameter to fit the mounts? I bought longer bolts for the brackets, and they work great. But the extra width doesn't allow the bracket holes to line up with the mount holes in the engine bay, at least as far as I can tell. Right now I'm zip tied in, but I'm not super comfortable with it, even though it's in there tight. Ideas?
Thanks.

Big hose clamps?
altered hose clamps?

 

[Cincodemustache]

For those of you who put the VC120 in your 60, how did you accomodate the wider diameter to fit the mounts? I bought longer bolts for the brackets, and they work great. But the extra width doesn't allow the bracket holes to line up with the mount holes in the engine bay, at least as far as I can tell. Right now I'm zip tied in, but I'm not super comfortable with it, even though it's in there tight. Ideas?
Thanks.

I’ve made peace with the zip ties on mine and check them often. I’m not proud of them but everything works, which is the goal.

 

[A62]

I’ve made peace with the zip ties on mine and check them often. I’m not proud of them but everything works, which is the goal.

Yeah, I can already feel my pride around the whole thing fading. By tomorrow I'll have mostly lost my concern around it and moved on to the next problem.

89bigblue, the clamps aren't a bad idea, though.

 

[jmcclusk]

@A62 you probably moved on, but in case yours is still hanging by zip ties; I put my VC120 in my 60 and had to take the brackets out completely first and form them around the new canister's body diameter lightly hitting the straps with a rubber mallet and it bolted up ok. bit of cursing and scraped knuckes but thats everything on a 60. the extened bolts for the band were 1/4" (m6) x 2.5" (65mm) long and had just enough room for two nuts to lock on each other.

I hooked up the hoses, but the purge line doesnt really go to anything on my Weber 38/38. weber didnt drill that port on the bowl vent.... so I guess i'm just supposed to run that line to the air cleaner vacuum ports just so its not capped and can draw air.