Aftermarket charcoal canister (2 Viewers)

[Pantingfish]

I also did a zip tie bracket, 50,000 miles later still holding

 

[A62]

@A62 you probably moved on, but in case yours is still hanging by zip ties; I put my VC120 in my 60 and had to take the brackets out completely first and form them around the new canister's body diameter lightly hitting the straps with a rubber mallet and it bolted up ok. bit of cursing and scraped knuckes but thats everything on a 60. the extened bolts for the band were 1/4" (m6) x 2.5" (65mm) long and had just enough room for two nuts to lock on each other.

I hooked up the hoses, but the purge line doesnt really go to anything on my Weber 38/38. weber didnt drill that port on the bowl vent.... so I guess i'm just supposed to run that line to the air cleaner vacuum ports just so its not capped and can draw air.

View attachment 2671080

I'd forgotten all about it! I like this better, though and will give it a try. Thanks!

 

[FJasn60]

On my 60 both the VCV and Purge lines go to open air on the TB side of the hard lines. Its got the Howel TBI and desmogged. I havent found any posts referring to my setup, only carb’d and factory EFI engines. Im having the pressurized gas problem and want to replaced with either of the aftermarket canisters. My question is do i leave those lines open to air or is there a way to route them back into my TB? Whats the point of the VCV if its not hooked to anything?

 

[cps432]

On my 60 both the VCV and Purge lines go to open air on the TB side of the hard lines. Its got the Howel TBI and desmogged. I havent found any posts referring to my setup, only carb’d and factory EFI engines. Im having the pressurized gas problem and want to replaced with either of the aftermarket canisters. My question is do i leave those lines open to air or is there a way to route them back into my TB? Whats the point of the VCV if its not hooked to anything?

View attachment 2992302

You can leave those open. You only need to run the evap can back to the manifold if you’re running smog. Install the new one and vent it to atmosphere if you’re not running smog and it’ll be good.

 

[FJasn60]

You can leave those open. You only need to run the evap can back to the manifold if you’re running smog. Install the new one and vent it to atmosphere if you’re not running smog and it’ll be good.

Thanks, its been like that for years and runs just fine. At this point the CC is literally just filtering the fumes then. I read somewhere where a guy just put a lawnmower fuel filter on the tank line and said he didnt have any fumes in the cabin. Essentially doing the same job. Maybe ill try that and see before spending the now $84 for the Autozone CC

 

[cps432]

Thanks, its been like that for years and runs just fine. At this point the CC is literally just filtering the fumes then. I read somewhere where a guy just put a lawnmower fuel filter on the tank line and said he didnt have any fumes in the cabin. Essentially doing the same job. Maybe ill try that and see before spending the now $84 for the Autozone CC

Check Amazon. You should find that CC for cheaper. Then again, it’s 2022 and sometimes you can’t find eggs. So…

 

[Jamieson22]

So my 62 definitely has a whoosh when opening gas cap to fill it up. Is that alone good reason to swap CC?

Been reading as much as i can but still not 100% sure if the AC Delco requires any mods to existing tubing. Do I need to T the original three into two connections?

 

[Beehanger]

The EVAP intake pipe at the base of the carb sucks (a lot of) air from the charcoal canister while driving. This is a significant 'vacuum leak' that had been accounted for with the carb jet sizing to get a correct A/F ratio.

When the charcoal canister hoses are swapped, the EVAP system no longer works and no air gets sucked in at the base of the carb. This won't hurt the engine, but it will run richer than ideal and mpg will take a hit to some degree. As to how much? I don't know.

A better option than swapping is to connect the tank hose to the vent pipe on the CC (swap) but remove the vent hose and insert a little fuel filter or air filter in it so that the EVAP system will still be able to suck air, just not from the cc.

Can I attach it to air filter instead rather than carb base? also, I thought van advance went to carb base, or does it go to the air cleaner as well?

Thanks,
dan

 

[Beehanger]

If there's a strong vacuum on the tank when the gas cap is cracked open, the gas cap is faulty. The cap has a one way valve built into it (the Toyota cap). It prevents air from escaping the tank, but allows air to enter.

where can one get the toyota cap?


@ToyotaMatt do yo have these one way caps for salea? or would it not help me since I have that chewed-up-metal-on-my-filler-neck- so-it-wont-seal-delimna?

 

[OSS]

Can I attach it to air filter instead rather than carb base

The air cleaner housing doesn’t ever have a vacuum- so it doesn’t suck air. Only place where there’s vacuum is below the carburetor in the intake manifold.

 

[Beehanger]

No, the bottom port on the OEM canister is a vent to atmosphere. On the AC Delco, the vent is the thing on top with the cap on it. If you WANT to keep the lower vent line, I think you can remove the cap and route a line down to it.

View attachment 1531267

Mine doesn’t have a cap on it. Does anyone know where one can begotten aftermarket? I’m trying to get rid of the line to the other side of the vehicle, as I have nothing to link it to since I’m running aftermarket carburetor and I’m desmogged

Alternatively,
@MoaByte did you hook yours up the the air cleaner cover you were saying, or is this not sufficient to provide air to the canister and you were talking about something else?

TLDR Curious how I can route this open hardline suction vent for the canister (photo 2) or worst case buy a cap for based on a part number