Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser

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Hey guys,

Got an update and some questions, forgive my long windedness in the second half of this post but its mainly to provide context for people in the future, and to let you guys know where I'm at mentally. I really just have no clue how to gauge how much longer it could take and am out of time. The solo trial and error process really does not seem to be feasible esp. if its your only vehicle. Reality is really setting in.....:

First half: technical questions:

I Posted my current undertaking here, its' about the ICS and causing stumbling: Sanity check before adjusting idle & mixture - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sanity-check-before-adjusting-idle-mixture.1324047/

My stumbling issues are persisting and don't appear to be a vacuum leak. Could a not re curved dizzy be a cause? Spark gap? ignition coil? can anything be discerned from this video of my gauge reading so I don't have to chase rabbit holes for another 1-3 months?


(Gauge reading was taken when the timing was heavily advanced to keep it running. At 7 degrees advanced it stumbles even more.)

This is what my vacuum gauge reading looks like as of now. I'm thinking i have a multitide of potential issues as the gauge is wobbly as well as hunting between numbers, and low. Google is worthless for diagnosing and not sure if anyone can help pinpoint if its a valve issue or not ( I rather not recheck timing for the 8th time, and if it truly is a valve problem would a compression check be a more sure fire way of telling?)

Working on the beast more tomorrow but I've reached the point where sinking 12 hours into learning about something that may be a quick conversation over the phone isn't ideal. Wish there were more guys in my town that knew these rigs! Would love over-the-phone help if possible on the electrical diagnosing as its very foreign to me and Im working on the ICS with an aftermarket solenoid.


---

Second half: the human element:

I'm just now realizing that vacuum can be low for a lot more reasons than just an intake leak/etc, and i have limited time to go through a long checklist, so any advice on where to start based on the vacuum gauge video I took would be helpful (if possible). I can't just throw parts at it either ie: Jim C carb, new dizzy, etc. unless I know within reasonable doubt that that's the problem. A lot of my current plights seem preventable now, but then again, a lot of times you simply have to learn things the hard way, and with cruisers/mechanics for beginners like trial and error seems to be the foundation no matter which way you cut it. (I'm probably 1000-1500 hours in at this point.)



Not trying to complain, just letting future beginners know how and where the project is done matters immensely, this s*** is NOT easy and takes a ridicuous amount of time if you go the trial and error route. I could be 1 hour away from driving it or 100 and I have no way of knowing.

Staying the course, I've trained by brain to enjoy the process rather than end result the best I can. Evne so, I'm seriously considering having it inspected by an actual cruiser tech to know where I stand. Seems like admitting defeat or when I've been told I'm at the 1 yard line, but then again I thought I've been near the end zone for 6 months now. "Wasted time" is just all how you look at it, but does seem like a document or book of all the easy lessons/mistakes that can be preveneted. And to know what to expect if the dice roll doesn't go your way and you're naive like I was. Maybe I will once I'm done with this process. Who knows!

Feeling the weight of a two ton cruiser on my shoulders, hoping some things can be answered over the forum here and I don't have to tow this beast 300 miles to the nearest cruiser shop to get it running properly. ( I can't afford it and don't want to admit defeat either). I just gotta have my vehicle and mental space back. I'm giving myself 2 more weeks to figure it out with all the resources available.

SEE Drive Link for video of my vac gauge at idle
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Thanks in advance for answering questions in the first half, and any advice regarding the second half.

Carrying on the hard way,

Dan

View attachment 3595414

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View attachment 3595416



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hi dan


happy Easter


i have the ICS topic diagnosed , and needed parts solution solved here too ....
the whole fcs and the 2 wire ones on a 2F starting in


below will be my TECH notes on the WHY factor ...

matt





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I haven’t read this whole thread to verify, but if one piston/cylinder doesn’t have pretty much the same compression as the others, it isn’t going to “suck” as strongly as the others. Its vacuum power will be lower. This will be seen as the vacuum gauge needle bouncing a bit every time it’s that cylinder’s turn to do something.
A tight valve adjustment can make a valve leak = loss of compression & vacuum.

So check the engine compression (if you haven’t already)
 
I haven’t read this whole thread to verify, but if one piston/cylinder doesn’t have pretty much the same compression as the others, it isn’t going to “suck” as strongly as the others. Its vacuum power will be lower. This will be seen as the vacuum gauge needle bouncing a bit every time it’s that cylinder’s turn to do something.
A tight valve adjustment can make a valve leak = loss of compression & vacuum.

So check the engine compression (if you haven’t already)
How far off does it have to be to make a big difference? I recall one or two fo the valves being off by about .001mm maybe a tad more when I checked em cold the other night.

Was told this wouldn't cause a major vacuum leak.

I do have a crack across one of the supporting rocker arms. It popped when I over torqued a bit installing it. Not sure if this is shifting during operation but an old cruiser head said not to worry about it. Wondering if this is fouling something up, and if the old engine overheated along with the rockers at some point, leading to its fragility.

here's the gauge reading.


Dan
 
Another UPDATE:

I want to try to see if I can tune by advancing the timing 25-30 degrees. I couldn't get to that step the last two nights because the beast won't start! I was out of Gas but upon adding 2.5 gallons no difference.... so weird.

--------

I Posted this on a different thread but for context I want to add it here as well::::

Hi guys,
I Can't get the rig started the last 2 nights. Last night it stumbled and died and tonight nothing. It seems to be getting worse and worse so I can't even test out if the mix/idle screws start working when timing is 20-25 degrees advanced... (I have yet to try this). So strange... it's like it's getting choked progressively worse somehow. It was just this gradual decline where it started less and less and every time I would open the throttle it would die. Then towards the end, It would just start for about half a second and then die right after. Tried changing the fuel filter with no effect.

Looked in the sight glass window and couldn't see any fuel, or it was so full I couldn't see the line. One of the two. (or my flashlight was messing up my vision, will check aagain tomorrow). I didn't smell gas in the bay like the other night though. I did smell a major gas smell in the cab last night. Wondering if the rig is trying to tell me something... clogged line? clogged vent lines? (This is what was causing running issues before the rebuild, but I get no WHOOSH from the gas tank. I was also super low on gas, but just put in 2.5 gallons and no difference. (maybe not enough gas still?)

I also recall about 5 weeks ago I had this puppy at 15 mercury at 800-1000ish RPM with a solid needle right when I installed the fuji carb. IF I recall the vacuum was very advanced, like 20+ degrees. I was so excited.
Unforntutaly the next day started it without the air filter on and was driving it, and the carb was sucking in all the hood fabric and dirt. It was chopping and struggling bad and I couldn't figure out why. I messed with tuning without realizing what had happened. Anyway, I'm wondering if a bunch of s*** got in some of the ports somehow and now has finally clogged it to infinity. I've never had it at the beautiful 15 mercury since this happened. I still think it wasn't letting me tune it though even then.

Because the rig is giving me the clue is that startup/running "getting progressively worse" and the sight glass showing no fuel, these are what I can think of:

-the carb got a clog that has gotten to the point it can't fuel itself anymore ( from the no air filter dirt sucking mishap spoken about earlier)
-progressively worse fueling issue from a bad line.
-progressively worse unknown vacuum leak.
-FAULTY vacuum gauge (I slammed it and cracked it in the car door by accident [see video]
-ignition coil wearing out,
-The alternator going out (I had a MAJOR spark session the other day placing a wrench on it....)(I did try jumping it and it didn't help at all),
-Caburtoar overfilling or underfilling per sight class assessment

Here's the VIDEO OF CARB WHEN I HAD IT RUNNING 4 days ago. (approx 15 degrees advanced, 800RPM...) I'm at 5200 ft.... I was told to shoot for 16 HG at this elevation for optimal performance. ⬇️

Video Mar 30 2024, 1 29 01 AM.mov - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/o8yau7nbrl308ayire83r/Video-Mar-30-2024-1-29-01-AM.mov?rlkey=gjr3pkm8st1vxb5te1kkv03yl&dl=0 ((
~Above is a link to a video of my gauge from when I had it running a few days ago. It seems like one of the cylinders isn't firing as well as it should because you can see the needle shaking rapidly. This is just what I read online.

Trying to give you guys as much data as possible, and so when I finally figure this out people will be able to work back through my symptoms etc.

Thanks in advance, wondering if there's anything I can rule out at the very least.

Still fighting,
Dan
 
Maybe I just need to write things out to figure them out myself...opefully last post provided some context to future young bucks like me on the art of overthinking. I posted that on another thread and @Mark W told me to just start with timing, fueling, and carb adjustment. That i did and it solved many of my issues!

Big breakthrough just a few hours ago! I'm idling at 14hg, a big improvement and only 1-2 hg off of my vacuum goal for 5200 ft. My guage almost certainly reads about half a mercury low cause its cheap as s*** so factor that in as well..

I changed my fuel filter back to stock, and properly capped off the carb vac port.

I added some gas in and after pumping the accelerator pedal a like 20 times and hitting the starter I finally got Fuel to go in and got it started.



I advanced to 15 degrees and its idling at 850 RPM around 14HG Cold, 15 HG Hot. The vacuum advance is plugged off.



I'm told at altitude well tuned rigs sit at 16 idle. Maybe I have a pinhole leak in a line somewhere as I max out at 15. If I advanced it more MAYBE i could get it to 15.5 HG. I'm stoked! Haven't driven it yet because I want to really try to seat the cam if it hasn't already, and I want a mechanic buddy to listen while I do so as I'm not familiar with what pinging sounds like in an engine bay. (see Youtube link below for engine running, does it sound alright generally?).



Anyway, enough of the fun stuff, obviously there are more observations now that I need to get to the bottom of. Here are my questions and observations, each noise I talk about is definitely a separate noise :



1.) every now and then if I advanced to around 20, I could hear a faint metal scratching sort of Noise that would happen maybe once every 5 seconds seemingly from the front of the bottom end or a pulley. Hard to tell, but it did sound metallic. SEEMS to go away when its idling lower, IE less advanced as well, but can still hear it faintly. (see video)



1.b) I'm recalling off the top of my head, I put the pulley for the Power steering on when I was :banana: and could hav easily ****ed that up. But the noise didn't really sound like it was coming from there. Just adding for context and in case. Maybe you can hear the noise I hear in the video.



2.) I get a popping noise when I set off the accelerator, maybe a misfire-type noise. It usually is way worse the first time I hit the accelerator as its warming up, but the second or third rev it is less so and mainly just happens right when I hit the accelerator. It's something to do with fueling, but I'm pretty closed to tune now so wondering if this is just what it's like when its cold (i don't have choke hooked up yet)





3.)The other and more concerning weird Noise is one I can here when inside the vehicle throught he floorboard. It's like a low hum/ringing noise i can actually fenitly feel the vibration come nad go in my feet ont he floorboard. you can totally hear it in this video:





4.) I noticed after I shut the rig down, the battery was lower and it wouldn't start unless I jumped it. I was at 12v when Is tarted it and 8v by the time I was done (granted I was using the starter quite a lot.) Shouldn't the battery have charged under idle? Or only under power? --- (recall I placed a rench on the alternator last week and had a Benjamin Franklin level lightning show..... oops)



5.) How does it sound in general? Not sure how well you guys can hear, but I have no frame of reference. I'm about to try to seat the cam and have no one in person who knows these rigs to give me guidance before I do. I'm up for taking my time if there's any red or yellow flags with the videos.----> Are any of these sounds tell-tale detonation, loose bearing, etc. Context: I need a new fan clutch, my crankpulley/harmonic balancer is a bit unbalanced [could this create the floorboard noise?] and my tranny was sitting pretty damned crooked when the engine was installed and we had to kina force it in there with straps, this happened because the previous owner was a numbskull and bent the tranny cross member by installing a lift poorly. Basically the 4WD driveshaft was hitting the crossmemebr for a while when he owned it and slightly bent the front cross member. Anyway, local cruiserhead said I could "Drive it Like that for a bit" But wondering if a slightly crooked link up between the back of the engine and the tranny is causing this noise). More context: I never "adjusted" the new clutch I installed, and am wondering if it needs adjustment from out of the box like another random thread spoke about.



6.)How can one check for fuel in the oil? I need to probably change oil soon anyway even though I haven't driven it I've probably ideled this thing at least 2 hours worth of time since rebuilding.



7.I tried seating the cam for about 10 minutes day 1 but it started overheating and hit about 280 degrees F IR Gun reading on the head. [Guys on another thread of mine said its probably fine.] Rookie move about 6 months ago, but not sure if this somehow changes engine breaking procedure or sheds light on anything I should look into. Feel free to read back further in the thread for even more context.



I can try to record more tomorrow, I'm gonna have a mechanic buddy *not a cruiser head* listen for a second tomorrow.



I know I'm throwing a lot at you guys, but my buddy and I only know so much. My very busy but helpful local cruiser head mentor gets back in town sunday, I can always WAIT to seat the cam and drive it around the block until he gets here, but its going to be seriously hard to contain myself and NOT DRIVE IT...hahahha.


TDLR: watch the video links above.

Thanks in advance, you guys rock!

Still in the Fight, I can taste victory!

Dan

banana.gif


IMG_2198.PNG
 
For checking fuel in oil: smell the dipstick, you’ll know. If not sure still, does the oil level seem a lot higher than it should be or the oil a bit thinner than what you put in?
 
@Beehanger I’m at 17.5inHg here in Denver at 5300’ elevation on the original 1982 motor that lived a rough life under the previous owner.

Carb, timing, valves, everything by the book, except idle is 750-800 instead of the factory 650. Air:Fuel mixture at idle (I installed an O2 sensor and gauge) is about 13-14 depending on the weather.

The easiest way to get these things to run right is by the book in my opinion. No need for 20* advance - if it isn’t running right at 7* advanced, don’t go to 20 because that’s just putting a bandaid on some other issue. Find the issue. When adjusting timing, pull the outer dizzy canister vac line (the HAC) and plug/cap both sides. Then find 7* timing. After that plug the vac line back to the outer dizzy canister so the HAC can add a few more degrees to compensate for altitude.
 
@Beehanger I’m at 17.5inHg here in Denver at 5300’ elevation on the original 1982 motor that lived a rough life under the previous owner.

Carb, timing, valves, everything by the book, except idle is 750-800 instead of the factory 650. Air:Fuel mixture at idle (I installed an O2 sensor and gauge) is about 13-14 depending on the weather.

The easiest way to get these things to run right is by the book in my opinion. No need for 20* advance - if it isn’t running right at 7* advanced, don’t go to 20 because that’s just putting a bandaid on some other issue. Find the issue. When adjusting timing, pull the outer dizzy canister vac line (the HAC) and plug/cap both sides. Then find 7* timing. After that plug the vac line back to the outer dizzy canister so the HAC can add a few more degrees to compensate for altitude
Deleted HAC, and have been told you can add a few degrees advance instead of using vacuum advance. (Not sure if my diaphragm is working.

I'll look around for further issues. . I'll also try a different gauge. My gas filter I noticed was leaking some fuel past the plugs. So maybe Ill work to replace it with a bolt from the Hardware store. Although spraying brake cleaner everywhere including the intake, carb base, EGR blockoff gasket, gas filter, and brake booster port. I noticed no change in RPM.

Currently, I get a bad clicking noise and no crank when I try to start her. This happens even with a full wall jump start at 18 volts. The gauge shows high voltage. I'm assuming Either I blew a connection somewhere or my starter is out.

Any ideas on how I can test if the starter is bad, and how I can check certain connections visually (Since the pertaning ones likely don't have voltage until startup)?

Dan
 
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For checking fuel in oil: smell the dipstick, you’ll know. If not sure still, does the oil level seem a lot higher than it should be or the oil a bit thinner than what you put in?
Potentally. I guess I should just change it if there's any doubt. Fuel level on the dip stick is slightly higher than the full line. I think that's where it was though. I have cranked the thing a ton so better safe than sorry.

Gunna order some more break-in oil.
 
Hi guys, posted here. Critical. I can't start her up, turning the key all I get is the dreaded starter clicking noise...... Been reading a bunch of threads but can't figure this one out. Sending out the SOS beacon again!!

 
thanks friend, appreciated this. I’m thinking a 100 series just because I don’t know half of anything about cars yet. What you said is right on, been trying to wake up to life recently but don’t want to slow up and pretend I’ve arrived or that it somehow isn’t on me. Time to get messy!
As I’m on the eve of looking at one of our customers 40 series as I’m the guy in the shop that knows these rigs best, I’m only getting further from the 100 series and newer tech….laughing at myself reading back at this comment hahah

Sincerely
-Benjamin Button
 
Hey guys,
Made a robust post here. Some potentially worrisome noises from the engine? then again I don't know what "normal" sounds like regarding rod knock.


Still fighting,
Dan
 
Hey guys,
Made a robust post here. Some potentially worrisome noises from the engine? then again I don't know what "normal" sounds like regarding rod knock.


Still fighting,
Dan
Here's a video of my PCV, installed correctly or too loose?
 
Here's a video of my PCV, installed correctly or too loose?
Can vacuum increase once the engine has seen 500 miles on it/is broken in?
 
Hey guys,
Following advice from fellow mudders and trying to get outside help to speed up my build. Need to get to the finish line or I risk having to sell the project. I'm out of time! Idaho cruiser guru needed.... 🤔

 
The cruiser is close!
Been hammering consistency on the project, radio silence was needed for intense "monk mode" levels of self learning.

I bring to you guys, shocker, another question.

Two weird noises happened the other day on cold morning startup, and I've never heard them before. One sounded like behind the dash and the other a bit further in the engine bay. The second noise goes away when I turn the steering wheel at certain angles.

The noises have come and gone the last few days, nothing seems to have changed with the rig.

Video 1: Sounds like a helicopter inside the engine bay/behind the dash.... went away after a bit. Doesn't go away with steering movmenet.



Video 2:
Sounds like a different sound, more of a machine gun noise.



Curious if people have heard these rather distinct noises before and what they might be. goes away with steering movement.

Could it be a bad bearing?

Thanks again for all the help thus far, of course. I will share video as soon as I do some final test laps!



Still fighting!
Dan
 
It sounds like an old Land Cruiser to me. I can’t pick anything out of those videos that makes me worried. Then again iPhones aren’t known for their high fidelity audio capabilities.

If you say it goes away with steering motion then it could be your power steering system. Or it could be the fan shroud hitting the fan occasionally.

Weird noises abound on healthy land cruisers so it’s hard to diagnose noises from cell phone videos. Part of owning a Land Cruiser is learning to deal with a loud noisy truck.

The first time my friend’s wife got in his Land Cruiser she gasped “oh my god what’s that noise?!” To which he replied “it’s a truck”.
 
It sounds like an old Land Cruiser to me. I can’t pick anything out of those videos that makes me worried. Then again iPhones aren’t known for their high fidelity audio capabilities.

If you say it goes away with steering motion then it could be your power steering system. Or it could be the fan shroud hitting the fan occasionally.

Weird noises abound on healthy land cruisers so it’s hard to diagnose noises from cell phone videos. Part of owning a Land Cruiser is learning to deal with a loud noisy truck.

The first time my friend’s wife got in his Land Cruiser she gasped “oh my god what’s that noise?!” To which he replied “it’s a truck”.
This^^ These are old pushrod engines with a host of other old but robust tech attached to them. Personally, I rather enjoy the mechanical symphony.
 
I think one of the noises is the horn pin. It drags along a ring on the steering column. I consider it normal but it might be time for the .22 LR mod. It's in the FAQ under "mods for under $50" I think. You will like it.

I got an awful noise on the PS bushing that does away for a couple days with a drop oil applied externally with the motor running.

If you don't have an automotive stethoscope you should get one. Alternatively, you can place a long screwdriver to your ear. (I reference the sounds on the tappets during and between valve adjustments. It makes me smile to not only see and feel it, but to be able to hear it as well). It's just a great tool for all kinds of noise chasing.
 
I think one of the noises is the horn pin. It drags along a ring on the steering column. I consider it normal but it might be time for the .22 LR mod. It's in the FAQ under "mods for under $50" I think. You will like it.

I got an awful noise on the PS bushing that does away for a couple days with a drop oil applied externally with the motor running.

If you don't have an automotive stethoscope you should get one. Alternatively, you can place a long screwdriver to your ear. (I reference the sounds on the tappets during and between valve adjustments. It makes me smile to not only see and feel it, but to be able to hear it as well). It's just a great tool for all kinds of noise chasing.
coool. was bushing going out?
 

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