I don't wanna talk about it.
Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Beehanger
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I wouldn't thinks that is a problem.I didn’t have a vacuum leak as far as I know at the carb/insulator plate surface, but when I pulled it the gasket seems to be soaked in gas. Is this normal or indicative of a vacuum leak?!
- Thread starter
- #364
Having "issues" with the half moon on the intake (the spot where the bolt mates onto). There's some warpage from a previous bolt and its making it difficult to get my shim on all the way (see video). theres like .2-.3 mm in height difference, meaning the bolt wouldnt be straight
Any ideas on how to "machine" this back down? It's also warped .1 mm the other way laterally meaning the bolt would also be pointing slightly upwards.
was told by a fellow cruisrehead .1mm is a lot for a bolt and it wont sit flush and provide proper clamp force. Im thinking this could be part of my sealing issue from before.
LINK TO PHOTOS/VIDEO:: Cruiser 2 - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/dei1zdhyh4pspk70rc31x/h?rlkey=633b09u90rt1d877t6sx9apm4&dl=0
Thanks,
Dan
Any ideas on how to "machine" this back down? It's also warped .1 mm the other way laterally meaning the bolt would also be pointing slightly upwards.
was told by a fellow cruisrehead .1mm is a lot for a bolt and it wont sit flush and provide proper clamp force. Im thinking this could be part of my sealing issue from before.
LINK TO PHOTOS/VIDEO:: Cruiser 2 - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/dei1zdhyh4pspk70rc31x/h?rlkey=633b09u90rt1d877t6sx9apm4&dl=0
Thanks,
Dan
Instead of machining down more, why don't you try adding to it. I did something similar recently but that was with 3f-e manifolds.
- Thread starter
- #366
im referring to an actual warpage WITHIN the half moon itself. Like the outer rim is higher than the inner one. Meaning the washer/spacer would NOT sit evenly on there. A local cruiserhead told me to roll with it as is and it should clamp enough on the slightly angeled surface.
Dan
That is what I was referring to. I should have explained it in another way. If you want them to match add a washer or washers. Use them like a shim. Cut the washers in half, jb weld and measure the thickness of each one.
- Thread starter
- #368
Jb welding....... Wish I knew welding haha.
Img going try stacking a little more on the exhaust manifold, and ave it hit about midway through the half-moon. Since I don't have access to a welder as of right now.
Thanks,
Dan
JB weld is a brand of 2-part epoxy. You can find it at almost any hardware store and auto part stores. If you need half the washer thicker than the other, cut washers in half and epoxy them to a whole washer to get a washer that is thick on one half.
- Thread starter
- #370
Hey y'all,
curious what the recommended torque is for this EGR to intake gasket (see photo). I haven't been able to get this fella to seal properly and after two tries I'm clearly doing something wrong.
What's the torque spec and How many foot pounds at a time in sequence? What's the final torque recommended for a crush gasket like this?
Thanks,
Dan
curious what the recommended torque is for this EGR to intake gasket (see photo). I haven't been able to get this fella to seal properly and after two tries I'm clearly doing something wrong.
What's the torque spec and How many foot pounds at a time in sequence? What's the final torque recommended for a crush gasket like this?
Thanks,
Dan
- Thread starter
- #371
Also, It seems like the gasket doesn't go all the way over the edge of the block off plate, does it need to form around the plate to seal properly?
Dan
- Thread starter
- #372
Hi gentlemen,
Good news and bad news. (scroll down for TLDR) THE GOOD: I think I stopped the intake gasket leak. Did a smoke test with the carb taken off and taped the top of the intake shut. It was an old machine so not sure how much PSI I was gunning in there but seemed moderate compared to the example videos I watched. the smoke made its way all the way to the valve cover venting hole, then when I taped that off it leaked a little out of the timing cover after that. From what I've been told this is a good sign. Nothing out of the intake.
THE BAD (See video link below!): When I put the carb back on there was smoke billowing out of the throttle body springs in particular (just below the carb hole). I can assure you after taping 3 seperate times before filming It was clearly leaking from here, and its not just the tape leaking (which it is some) There were also small leaks on the main mid gaskets. I tink I can hopefully resolve those with tightening the screws a bit (haven't done this yet.) But unsure how to fix throttle spring leak. No leak at the base. The shafts were leaking too but I hear this is normal.
Also Verified today brake booster is not causing the vacuum leak.
Still hitting 10-11 hg (see video for gauge action, assuming that its the carb throttle body leak being my main issue. (other potential issues I haven't verified would be bad PCV, leaky valve, timing off a tooth [I can see bb and line with a timing light tho if I move dizzy all the way clockwise]) This is a BRAND NEW carb from City Racer LLC. the FUJI brand made in japan one.
Any advice on sealing this leak and how bad it appears from the brief video? Does the vacuum gauge action rule out a leaky valve fluctuation? there are a few little bolts there but think they are unrelated, not entirely sure. Was already told by a local cruiserhead NOT to attempt to seal this the throttle spring area, even though he had done it before. Maybe I'm better of getting a refund on the carb or what? Could the leak of the size in the video be about the 5-7 hg im losing?
Other facts for context: it runs better heavily advanced. I am unable to tune it as the mix screw does virtually nothing. Puts out if I let off the gas, I have to rev it for about 15 seconds for it to idle (choke not hooked up yet). i'm at atlitude 5200 ft above sea level, and im running stock jets.)
Local cruiser also recommended I just rebuild and desmog my aisin carb, but unfortuntaley its been in peices for ayear and the chance of me remembering is not great.
Would love to hear everyone's take.
TLDR: How bad is the throttle spring leak and could it be the sole cause of my low vacuum of 11 on my rebuult engine based on vacuum reading? How can I fix this issue beyond going to a different carb? What can I rule out?
Could this be timing off a tooth? If I'm off a tooth, would I still be able to see the BB in the sight window? (I can see it in the window only when the distributor is rotated nearly fully clockwise but it runs like ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. Im asking if you can still be off a tooth and still get the distributor to show the BB.
LINK TO VIDEOS:
Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy
Good news and bad news. (scroll down for TLDR) THE GOOD: I think I stopped the intake gasket leak. Did a smoke test with the carb taken off and taped the top of the intake shut. It was an old machine so not sure how much PSI I was gunning in there but seemed moderate compared to the example videos I watched. the smoke made its way all the way to the valve cover venting hole, then when I taped that off it leaked a little out of the timing cover after that. From what I've been told this is a good sign. Nothing out of the intake.
THE BAD (See video link below!): When I put the carb back on there was smoke billowing out of the throttle body springs in particular (just below the carb hole). I can assure you after taping 3 seperate times before filming It was clearly leaking from here, and its not just the tape leaking (which it is some) There were also small leaks on the main mid gaskets. I tink I can hopefully resolve those with tightening the screws a bit (haven't done this yet.) But unsure how to fix throttle spring leak. No leak at the base. The shafts were leaking too but I hear this is normal.
Also Verified today brake booster is not causing the vacuum leak.
Still hitting 10-11 hg (see video for gauge action, assuming that its the carb throttle body leak being my main issue. (other potential issues I haven't verified would be bad PCV, leaky valve, timing off a tooth [I can see bb and line with a timing light tho if I move dizzy all the way clockwise]) This is a BRAND NEW carb from City Racer LLC. the FUJI brand made in japan one.
Any advice on sealing this leak and how bad it appears from the brief video? Does the vacuum gauge action rule out a leaky valve fluctuation? there are a few little bolts there but think they are unrelated, not entirely sure. Was already told by a local cruiserhead NOT to attempt to seal this the throttle spring area, even though he had done it before. Maybe I'm better of getting a refund on the carb or what? Could the leak of the size in the video be about the 5-7 hg im losing?
Other facts for context: it runs better heavily advanced. I am unable to tune it as the mix screw does virtually nothing. Puts out if I let off the gas, I have to rev it for about 15 seconds for it to idle (choke not hooked up yet). i'm at atlitude 5200 ft above sea level, and im running stock jets.)
Local cruiser also recommended I just rebuild and desmog my aisin carb, but unfortuntaley its been in peices for ayear and the chance of me remembering is not great.
Would love to hear everyone's take.
TLDR: How bad is the throttle spring leak and could it be the sole cause of my low vacuum of 11 on my rebuult engine based on vacuum reading? How can I fix this issue beyond going to a different carb? What can I rule out?
Could this be timing off a tooth? If I'm off a tooth, would I still be able to see the BB in the sight window? (I can see it in the window only when the distributor is rotated nearly fully clockwise but it runs like ABSOLUTE GARBAGE. Im asking if you can still be off a tooth and still get the distributor to show the BB. LINK TO VIDEOS:
Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy
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It seems like you are pretty close to getting the cruiser up and running but are hitting some snags. In you situation I would find someone who does old vehicle work and have them carry it across the finish line. Just get the old girl going at this point.
Or get a factory service manual and go step by step through it.
That would be my 2 cents
Or get a factory service manual and go step by step through it.
That would be my 2 cents
g-man
SILVER Star
I know it's 3 1/2 years too late. But to answer your question, NO you should NOT buy a land cruiser!!!!! HAHA!!!
And FYI...if you click on the resources button at the top of the page and drill down in the catagory section you can download for free all the FSMs you need INCLUDING the 2F engine repair manual (1991 printing) here.... https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/
And FYI...if you click on the resources button at the top of the page and drill down in the catagory section you can download for free all the FSMs you need INCLUDING the 2F engine repair manual (1991 printing) here.... https://forum.ih8mud.com/resources/2f-engine-repair-fsm-1991-printing.91/
- Thread starter
- #377
I mostly disagree!! Young guys wired with a growth mindset like me need something difficult to see through to the end. it's really toughened me up.
I just got a heavier dose with a quirky 60 and tough circumstacnes....
Deeply insightful journey into your self and how your mind and emotions work. Depends on what you consider to be a waste of time.
Water under the bridge as they say.
Will check out the FSM on this topic, not giving up!
Dan
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- Thread starter
- #378
Quick update + A link to what my vacuum gauge is doing....
My mission from September until late feb was getting the damn header/intake situation figured out, fixing an oil leak at timing cover, ordering a new carburetor, fixing big coolant leak and getting showered multiple times, installing gauges, and making the insulator plate fit to my headers.
It's been a long 4 months and my progress got a lot more complex and stagnated. This thread is helping. The last part is by far the hardest and its requiring me to get better at the mental aspect, focus and prepardness aspect, not losing tools etc. Been a humble awakening as I knew I was close, which I was am am, but the truck required a whole nother level and period of fortitude, skill development, and patience I didn't see coming.
Trying the things mentioned on this thread, still running at 11-12 mercury but I haven't given up, even though its been slow I have steady progress. A smoke machine test last week especially showed that I had 3 small/mediumish vacuum leaks on the city racer carubator. Going to try to tigthen that up first to start. will move onto readjusting valves etc. after that. (im now recalling there was a crack in one of the "supports" on the rocker assembly and wondering if that's creating play in the valves.)
@ToyotaMatt thanks for your kind words never caught that comment. Means a lot right now!
If you guys have input on this gauge reading that would be awesome. It's "wobbly" and I don't have expereince knowing what that means. Google wasn't that big of a help either>
Attached files. (Guage, and leaks on): Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy?usp=drive_link
Still Fighting,
Dan
My mission from September until late feb was getting the damn header/intake situation figured out, fixing an oil leak at timing cover, ordering a new carburetor, fixing big coolant leak and getting showered multiple times, installing gauges, and making the insulator plate fit to my headers.
It's been a long 4 months and my progress got a lot more complex and stagnated. This thread is helping. The last part is by far the hardest and its requiring me to get better at the mental aspect, focus and prepardness aspect, not losing tools etc. Been a humble awakening as I knew I was close, which I was am am, but the truck required a whole nother level and period of fortitude, skill development, and patience I didn't see coming.
Trying the things mentioned on this thread, still running at 11-12 mercury but I haven't given up, even though its been slow I have steady progress. A smoke machine test last week especially showed that I had 3 small/mediumish vacuum leaks on the city racer carubator. Going to try to tigthen that up first to start. will move onto readjusting valves etc. after that. (im now recalling there was a crack in one of the "supports" on the rocker assembly and wondering if that's creating play in the valves.)
@ToyotaMatt thanks for your kind words never caught that comment. Means a lot right now!
If you guys have input on this gauge reading that would be awesome. It's "wobbly" and I don't have expereince knowing what that means. Google wasn't that big of a help either>
Attached files. (Guage, and leaks on): Google Drive: Sign-in - https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1--9Tf9jCK_SQslaNem0DYpByLka3yXxy?usp=drive_link
Still Fighting,
Dan
g-man
SILVER Star
I admire your mental fortitude and ability to push forward even though you have had more problems than most. Carry on!
- Thread starter
- #380
Hey guys,
Got an update and some questions, forgive my long windedness in the second half of this post but its mainly to provide context for people in the future, and to let you guys know where I'm at mentally. I really just have no clue how to gauge how much longer it could take and am out of time. The solo trial and error process really does not seem to be feasible esp. if its your only vehicle. Reality is really setting in.....:
First half: technical questions:
I Posted my current undertaking here, its' about the ICS and causing stumbling: Sanity check before adjusting idle & mixture - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sanity-check-before-adjusting-idle-mixture.1324047/
My stumbling issues are persisting and don't appear to be a vacuum leak. Could a not re curved dizzy be a cause? Spark gap? ignition coil? can anything be discerned from this video of my gauge reading so I don't have to chase rabbit holes for another 1-3 months?
(Gauge reading was taken when the timing was heavily advanced to keep it running. At 7 degrees advanced it stumbles even more.)
This is what my vacuum gauge reading looks like as of now. I'm thinking i have a multitide of potential issues as the gauge is wobbly as well as hunting between numbers, and low. Google is worthless for diagnosing and not sure if anyone can help pinpoint if its a valve issue or not ( I rather not recheck timing for the 8th time, and if it truly is a valve problem would a compression check be a more sure fire way of telling?)
Working on the beast more tomorrow but I've reached the point where sinking 12 hours into learning about something that may be a quick conversation over the phone isn't ideal. Wish there were more guys in my town that knew these rigs! Would love over-the-phone help if possible on the electrical diagnosing as its very foreign to me and Im working on the ICS with an aftermarket solenoid.
---
Second half: the human element:
I'm just now realizing that vacuum can be low for a lot more reasons than just an intake leak/etc, and i have limited time to go through a long checklist, so any advice on where to start based on the vacuum gauge video I took would be helpful (if possible). I can't just throw parts at it either ie: Jim C carb, new dizzy, etc. unless I know within reasonable doubt that that's the problem. A lot of my current plights seem preventable now, but then again, a lot of times you simply have to learn things the hard way, and with cruisers/mechanics for beginners like trial and error seems to be the foundation no matter which way you cut it. (I'm probably 1000-1500 hours in at this point.)
Not trying to complain, just letting future beginners know how and where the project is done matters immensely, this s*** is NOT easy and takes a ridicuous amount of time if you go the trial and error route. I could be 1 hour away from driving it or 100 and I have no way of knowing.
Staying the course, I've trained by brain to enjoy the process rather than end result the best I can. Evne so, I'm seriously considering having it inspected by an actual cruiser tech to know where I stand. Seems like admitting defeat or when I've been told I'm at the 1 yard line, but then again I thought I've been near the end zone for 6 months now. "Wasted time" is just all how you look at it, but does seem like a document or book of all the easy lessons/mistakes that can be preveneted. And to know what to expect if the dice roll doesn't go your way and you're naive like I was. Maybe I will once I'm done with this process. Who knows!
Feeling the weight of a two ton cruiser on my shoulders, hoping some things can be answered over the forum here and I don't have to tow this beast 300 miles to the nearest cruiser shop to get it running properly. ( I can't afford it and don't want to admit defeat either). I just gotta have my vehicle and mental space back. I'm giving myself 2 more weeks to figure it out with all the resources available.
SEE Drive Link for video of my vac gauge at idle
-----
Thanks in advance for answering questions in the first half, and any advice regarding the second half.
Carrying on the hard way,
Dan
Got an update and some questions, forgive my long windedness in the second half of this post but its mainly to provide context for people in the future, and to let you guys know where I'm at mentally. I really just have no clue how to gauge how much longer it could take and am out of time. The solo trial and error process really does not seem to be feasible esp. if its your only vehicle. Reality is really setting in.....:
First half: technical questions:
I Posted my current undertaking here, its' about the ICS and causing stumbling: Sanity check before adjusting idle & mixture - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/sanity-check-before-adjusting-idle-mixture.1324047/
My stumbling issues are persisting and don't appear to be a vacuum leak. Could a not re curved dizzy be a cause? Spark gap? ignition coil? can anything be discerned from this video of my gauge reading so I don't have to chase rabbit holes for another 1-3 months?
(Gauge reading was taken when the timing was heavily advanced to keep it running. At 7 degrees advanced it stumbles even more.)
This is what my vacuum gauge reading looks like as of now. I'm thinking i have a multitide of potential issues as the gauge is wobbly as well as hunting between numbers, and low. Google is worthless for diagnosing and not sure if anyone can help pinpoint if its a valve issue or not ( I rather not recheck timing for the 8th time, and if it truly is a valve problem would a compression check be a more sure fire way of telling?)
Working on the beast more tomorrow but I've reached the point where sinking 12 hours into learning about something that may be a quick conversation over the phone isn't ideal. Wish there were more guys in my town that knew these rigs! Would love over-the-phone help if possible on the electrical diagnosing as its very foreign to me and Im working on the ICS with an aftermarket solenoid.
---
Second half: the human element:
I'm just now realizing that vacuum can be low for a lot more reasons than just an intake leak/etc, and i have limited time to go through a long checklist, so any advice on where to start based on the vacuum gauge video I took would be helpful (if possible). I can't just throw parts at it either ie: Jim C carb, new dizzy, etc. unless I know within reasonable doubt that that's the problem. A lot of my current plights seem preventable now, but then again, a lot of times you simply have to learn things the hard way, and with cruisers/mechanics for beginners like trial and error seems to be the foundation no matter which way you cut it. (I'm probably 1000-1500 hours in at this point.)
Not trying to complain, just letting future beginners know how and where the project is done matters immensely, this s*** is NOT easy and takes a ridicuous amount of time if you go the trial and error route. I could be 1 hour away from driving it or 100 and I have no way of knowing.
Staying the course, I've trained by brain to enjoy the process rather than end result the best I can. Evne so, I'm seriously considering having it inspected by an actual cruiser tech to know where I stand. Seems like admitting defeat or when I've been told I'm at the 1 yard line, but then again I thought I've been near the end zone for 6 months now. "Wasted time" is just all how you look at it, but does seem like a document or book of all the easy lessons/mistakes that can be preveneted. And to know what to expect if the dice roll doesn't go your way and you're naive like I was. Maybe I will once I'm done with this process. Who knows!
Feeling the weight of a two ton cruiser on my shoulders, hoping some things can be answered over the forum here and I don't have to tow this beast 300 miles to the nearest cruiser shop to get it running properly. ( I can't afford it and don't want to admit defeat either). I just gotta have my vehicle and mental space back. I'm giving myself 2 more weeks to figure it out with all the resources available.
SEE Drive Link for video of my vac gauge at idle
-----
Thanks in advance for answering questions in the first half, and any advice regarding the second half.
Carrying on the hard way,
Dan
Last edited:
