PCV install tips (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Threads
14
Messages
95
Location
Kyle Canyon, Nevada
Two part question. Does anyone know where I can find the exploded parts diagram for the pvc or have a picture of theirs that I can look at?

Also, should it be very difficult to seat into the former/ pipe?

This is a real time , greasy hands problem and search function isn't producing much through my phone.

Thanks
 
I bought my rust-free, non-running FJ60 (thrown rod) about 15 years ago from a guy who lived just off the Kyle Canyon highway. It took me a while, but I'm finally getting it ready to hit the road again (it hasn't been driven since about 1995). Is your FJ60 a southern Nevada rig?
 
Not sure about its hole life. I got it from a guy who bought it, realized its a bit of work and sold it in a months span in Henderson. It's mostly rust free. There is some discoloration on about 40 percent of the drip edge and a dime sized bubble that I'll pick at tomorrow on the A post and a couple chips with (surface) rust starting.

This is what I know so far:
1. choke cable is recessed into the dash - no knob - :(
2. Weird home made desmog done, EGR removed and blocked, pump gutted, everything else seems to be in place but rotting
3. lots of oils/gunk on front drivers side knuckle - thats a messy day or two
4. Following gauges/sensors don't work : Water temp, Oil press(unplugged , may work) , speedometer,
5. rear wiper inop - harness is severed where the boot comes through on top
6. No AC, some missing components

Thats what I've found so far. It actually ran great headed up the mountain (I'm at 7500') but a cold start this afternoon caused some stumbles. I'll make a plan to correct the desmog and go from there. I'll plan on posting a build thread when I figure out what exactly I'm gonna do. Not much of a mechanic myself but I'm willing to learn. Theres a baby on the way in my house so I'm hoping to get the big stuff done before december.

I have a buddy in lower Kyle with two 40's just sitting so hopefully well work together on em.

Until then , I'm sure I'll be looking for advice.
 
Sounds like you've got your work cut out for you but if I can do it, anyone w/ persistent can as well. I was looking at old pics last night and spotted one of the guy who helped me buy my first... he's sitting in the engine and you can see just a bit of the carb and such near it, what a fing black carbon/grease mess! Looking at the truck I have now and what I've done and taught myself 10 years later is amazing. All thanks to this forums and the great people in it.
 
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Resurrecting this thread. Trying to replace the PVC valve on a 1983 FJ60. I purchased a Toyota OEM PVC and grommet. Looking at what I call the J-pipe where the PVC sits, the value seems to be held in by a press fitted cap over the J-tube. There is no rubber grommet. Not sure if I'm looking at a aftermarket setup. Looked at the FSM but could not find any details. Thought I would ask here how to remove the press fitted cover before applying force to the new (to me) rig. Appreciate any help.
 
PVC Valve.JPG
Here is a picture of the J-tube housing with the PVC valve sticking through what appears to be a press fitted cover versus a rubber grummet. Has anyone seen this setup and what's the appropriate means to remove the top to replace with OEM PVC and grummet.
 
The rubber grommet is still there. It has just solidified into a rock after 30 years.
Pull the PCV valve out using pliers while rocking it gently if you have to, then dig out that fossil grommet - being careful not to let pieces of it drop down the pipe.
 
That was the original rubber grommet that had turned to hard plastic. The top part above the j-pipe chipped away. The PVC valve will not budge after rocking it back and forth while pulling up. Since that grommet is so brittle, I'm concerned about it breaking to pieces if the PVC valve breaks lose. Should I try heating the metal j-pip with a touch to see if it expands enough to loosen the PVC/grommet. Wanting to avoid taking off the entire side plate. Thoughts?
 
Don't heat it. The inside of the pipe and side over are coated with sludge that might ignite- or smoke you out of the engine compartment.

There is no approved technique in getting that thing out. Maybe try grabbing the rock hard grommet with slip joint pliers or vise grips & try to turn it to at least get it moving?

Yes removing the side cover is a chore because the distributor has to be removed first and a new side gasket needs to be used (and side cover old gasket scrapped off).

But you shouldn't risk breaking off pieces of that fossil grommet and have them drop down the pipe.
 
Best procedure for installing the PCV valve? Place the grommet on the j-pipe then push the PCV valve in place or slide the grommet over the PCV then install in the j-pipe. Would think the latter but thought I would ask. Local Toyota dealership shipped in the wrong valve so will have to wait until Monday. Ugh!
 
New PCV grommet is flexible n supple. Just install it in the pipe first. It goes in easy. Then pop the valve into the grommet. If it seems to stick you could put some saliva on it to lubricate. No big deal.
 
Grommet into j pipe first then wiggle PCV valve in. I put a tiny bit of grease to help it in. There is one OEM grommet that is really soft and flexible and one that is a little more of a hard rubber.
 
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Hey guys,
resurrecting this thread. How does my grommet look on install? too loose to tight? (im putting pretty mild pressure on it...) @OSS not sure of your take. Been having seeming low vacuum issues, the grommet is new PCV valve is new on a rebuilt engine I have yet to drive.
 
New rubber grommet will be fine. Yes the PCV valve will have a little wobble when installed.
 

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