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Running into more missing parts::: can I trust these to be matching? Says its for a corolla, but assuming it owuld still work: 9017912016 - Nut - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/69365004/9017912016.html
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Matching to what? Lots of nuts and bolts are interchangeable from model to model, some are not. There’s not enough information in your question for us to give you an answer.Running into more missing parts::: can I trust these to be matching? Says its for a corolla, but assuming it owuld still work: 9017912016 - Nut - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/69365004/9017912016.html
So you are looking for the nut with the part number 90179-12016? These are unique numbers (the same number would not be used on two different parts), so if that is the part you need, then it is the part you need.Running into more missing parts::: can I trust these to be matching? Says its for a corolla, but assuming it owuld still work: 9017912016 - Nut - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/69365004/9017912016.html
Agreed!Your story sounds like my drive home in my FJ40 the day I bought it. But my drive was only 4-5 hours and my dad was following in a chase vehicle. 19 years old, January, Colorado mountains, broken heater, fuel vapors, leaky exhaust, no windshield washer. Made it, but don’t really want to have to repeat the adventure. Joined MUD after getting home that day.
Land Yacht!If you've ever owned boats then this is like owning a boat on land. It's a big hole you keep throwing money into.
But they really are cool!
Land Yacht! View attachment 3303490
My land yacht is currently floating on hydronic lift… close enough.Land Yacht! View attachment 3303490
Just dropped the rebuilt motor in. It was turning when we had it out.
Just dropped the rebuilt motor in. It was turning when we had it out.
Tried turning from the crank nut and nothing.
This piece fell out when we tried rocking it in 2nd to move it. (See attached)
Sprayed some wd40 in the cylinders and waiting for that to soak on.
We had hell getting it in, we had to ratchet the tranny to the left to get it to go in, then used bell housing bolts to sequentially torque engine into the driveshaft. Can’t get it to turn over tho
Any ideas based on people’s experience?
Thanks
Beehanger
View attachment 3304124
Did you remove the timing gear from the crank? That might be the key for the timing gear. Key fits in a slot in crank and in a slot on the timing gear to properly position the timing gear. Part no. 13521A
Did you remove the timing gear from the crank? That might be the key for the timing gear. Key fits in a slot in crank and in a slot on the timing gear to properly position the timing gear. Part no. 13521A
That’s what I thought! But the![]()
Land Yacht Plane!
Sounds cheaper than a 60 series!Land Yacht Plane!
Just made an important post on my new thread, as this one is currently inactive. Would love your guys' takes!Sounds cheaper than a 60 series!
As I grow more bananas, I'm circling back ont he sparkplug question. Ihave my gap set to .039, not .031. this is what the haynes manual says...Since you said you found someone with LC experience in Vegas I figured I'd post a few things from my computer:
1. Spark plugs. Pull the plugs and see what brand they are and also check what the spark plug gap is set to.
- The gap should be .031 inches
- Brand wise I try to stick to Nippondenso or NGK.
-Nippondenso W14EXR-U
-NGK BPR4EY
View attachment 2570440
2. Pinging or is it?
- I would approach this in the following steps
- After you check the plugs and the gap....initially regardless of the brand make sure the gap is set to .031" on all the plugs. If its some no name or other brand then see if you can find the Nippo or NGK brand in town and swap them out
- After the plugs check the that the base timing is set to 7 degrees when at idle, vac advance plugged, engine at temperature and idling. If its set higher than 7 degrees then dial it back to 7
- Try swapping the vacuum lines on the advance actuator on the side of the distributor (you'll want to go out and get the truck warm and then accelerate mid to hard in 4th to see if each change made any difference. If no noticeable change by swapping the vac lines then.....
- Disconnect and plug or clamp off both vac lines so you effectively disable the advancer unit. Disconnecting and blocking the lines or pinching the lines is the most surefire way to be sure the advance is disabled. Test drive the truck again.
if by doing these things nothing changes in the sound you are hearing...then either its not pinging or there is some other internal engine issue driving the problem. things like carbon building in the combustion chamber, maybe too lean of a mixture (not enough fuel), or if they resurfaced the head and took a lot of material off it might have raised the compression ratio enough to cause issues when combined with other factors.
3 Coolant, engine temp, lack of heat:
- I would get a new radiator cap and when you get your old one off try to add coolant to the radiator fill tube IF you don's see coolant up to the neck already. If it does need to be topped off be aware of how much you have to add.
- Thermostat. See if you can get a Thermostat from a local yota dealer and make sure it has the top gasket. it will look like this when you put the new one in, note the orientation because i think its possible to put it in upside down.
View attachment 2570477
Welcome to your engine bay:
View attachment 2570486
See @ToyotaMatt post below @ToyotaMatt ?
.031” is spec I believe. If you are running a super powerful ignition you can probably up the gap a bit though. With the standard ignition and a bigger gap on the plug you will get a bigger spark that can aid in ignition * however* the cost is a shorter spark duration. With better leads and a more powerful coil you can’t spark a bigger gap and maintain the same spark duration.As I grow more bananas, I'm circling back ont he sparkplug question. Ihave my gap set to .039, not .031. this is what the haynes manual says...
Anyone want to weigh in here?
View attachment 3346053
Well put sir..031” is spec I believe. If you are running a super powerful ignition you can probably up the gap a bit though. With the standard ignition and a bigger gap on the plug you will get a bigger spark that can aid in ignition * however* the cost is a shorter spark duration. With better leads and a more powerful coil you can’t spark a bigger gap and maintain the same spark duration.
Ill real her back to .31, was set at .39. MOTHERFUCKERWell put sir.
It likely ran ok at idle and maybe even cruise but when you loaded the engine like trying to climb a hill that’s when you’d really see an issueIll real her back to .31, was set at .39. MOTHERFUCKER
begrudgingly acquiring bananas at a monkeys pace,
Dan