Advice on whether I should buy a Land Cruiser (1 Viewer)

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Running into more missing parts::: can I trust these to be matching? Says its for a corolla, but assuming it owuld still work: 9017912016 - Nut - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/69365004/9017912016.html
Matching to what? Lots of nuts and bolts are interchangeable from model to model, some are not. There’s not enough information in your question for us to give you an answer.

Also, ace hardware is your friend when you’re in a pinch. They have most of what you’ll need, however, it won’t be JIS so the bolt heads won’t look like OEM and they will have different wrench sizes. I replaced all the rusted bolts on my oil pan with bolts from ace hardware and they worked just fine. I had to use a 13mm socket rather than a 12mm. I think it was half the cost of buying JIS OEM hardware.
 
Running into more missing parts::: can I trust these to be matching? Says its for a corolla, but assuming it owuld still work: 9017912016 - Nut - Genuine Toyota Part - https://parts.toyota.com/p/69365004/9017912016.html
So you are looking for the nut with the part number 90179-12016? These are unique numbers (the same number would not be used on two different parts), so if that is the part you need, then it is the part you need.

For the FJ60 these seem to cross reference to the bolts used to secure the motor mounts. In my opinion these are not special purpose bolts and really any bolt of the correct thread size and pitch should be OK. Since it is a flange bolt, you might also consider using a flat washer underneath a normal bolt.
 
Hi all,
People have recommended I start a build thread, so I am.
I'm moving much of what I'm going to say to this thread: The Forbidden FJ60 (Story+Build Thread) - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/the-forbidden-fj60-story-build-thread.1309544/

If you all will kindly move there with me and we can continue our discussions there...

Thanks for all of your continued insights and help,

Dan

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Your story sounds like my drive home in my FJ40 the day I bought it. But my drive was only 4-5 hours and my dad was following in a chase vehicle. 19 years old, January, Colorado mountains, broken heater, fuel vapors, leaky exhaust, no windshield washer. Made it, but don’t really want to have to repeat the adventure. Joined MUD after getting home that day.
 
Your story sounds like my drive home in my FJ40 the day I bought it. But my drive was only 4-5 hours and my dad was following in a chase vehicle. 19 years old, January, Colorado mountains, broken heater, fuel vapors, leaky exhaust, no windshield washer. Made it, but don’t really want to have to repeat the adventure. Joined MUD after getting home that day.
Agreed!
 
My land yacht is currently floating on hydronic lift… close enough.😂

View attachment 3303527
Just dropped the rebuilt motor in. It was turning when we had it out.

Tried turning from the crank nut and nothing.

This piece fell out when we tried rocking it in 2nd to move it. (See attached)

Sprayed some wd40 in the cylinders and waiting for that to soak on.

We had hell getting it in, we had to ratchet the tranny to the left to get it to go in, then used bell housing bolts to sequentially torque engine into the driveshaft. Can’t get it to turn over tho

Any ideas based on people’s experience?

Thanks
Beehanger

455A24EC-107F-4905-ADA0-065AA1105988.jpeg
 
Just dropped the rebuilt motor in. It was turning when we had it out.

Tried turning from the crank nut and nothing.

This piece fell out when we tried rocking it in 2nd to move it. (See attached)

Sprayed some wd40 in the cylinders and waiting for that to soak on.

We had hell getting it in, we had to ratchet the tranny to the left to get it to go in, then used bell housing bolts to sequentially torque engine into the driveshaft. Can’t get it to turn over tho

Any ideas based on people’s experience?

Thanks
Beehanger

View attachment 3304124

Did you remove the timing gear from the crank? That might be the key for the timing gear. Key fits in a slot in crank and in a slot on the timing gear to properly position the timing gear. Part no. 13521A
MA4795B.gif
 
Did you remove the timing gear from the crank? That might be the key for the timing gear. Key fits in a slot in crank and in a slot on the timing gear to properly position the timing gear. Part no. 13521A
Did you remove the timing gear from the crank? That might be the key for the timing gear. Key fits in a slot in crank and in a slot on the timing gear to properly position the timing gear. Part no. 13521A
MA4795B.gif
That’s what I thought! But the

That’s what I thought! But the timing cover and pulley are all on there… how in the hell could it have come out?

My engines been hard to crank over, but did it successfully a second ago for a second, but no more than a quarter turn.

Wondering if these keys fell out and are jamming something
 
Sounds cheaper than a 60 series!
Just made an important post on my new thread, as this one is currently inactive. Would love your guys' takes!

 
Since you said you found someone with LC experience in Vegas I figured I'd post a few things from my computer:

1. Spark plugs. Pull the plugs and see what brand they are and also check what the spark plug gap is set to.

- The gap should be .031 inches
- Brand wise I try to stick to Nippondenso or NGK.
-Nippondenso W14EXR-U
-NGK BPR4EY

View attachment 2570440


2. Pinging or is it?
- I would approach this in the following steps
- After you check the plugs and the gap....initially regardless of the brand make sure the gap is set to .031" on all the plugs. If its some no name or other brand then see if you can find the Nippo or NGK brand in town and swap them out

- After the plugs check the that the base timing is set to 7 degrees when at idle, vac advance plugged, engine at temperature and idling. If its set higher than 7 degrees then dial it back to 7

- Try swapping the vacuum lines on the advance actuator on the side of the distributor (you'll want to go out and get the truck warm and then accelerate mid to hard in 4th to see if each change made any difference. If no noticeable change by swapping the vac lines then.....

- Disconnect and plug or clamp off both vac lines so you effectively disable the advancer unit. Disconnecting and blocking the lines or pinching the lines is the most surefire way to be sure the advance is disabled. Test drive the truck again.

if by doing these things nothing changes in the sound you are hearing...then either its not pinging or there is some other internal engine issue driving the problem. things like carbon building in the combustion chamber, maybe too lean of a mixture (not enough fuel), or if they resurfaced the head and took a lot of material off it might have raised the compression ratio enough to cause issues when combined with other factors.


3 Coolant, engine temp, lack of heat:

- I would get a new radiator cap and when you get your old one off try to add coolant to the radiator fill tube IF you don's see coolant up to the neck already. If it does need to be topped off be aware of how much you have to add.

- Thermostat. See if you can get a Thermostat from a local yota dealer and make sure it has the top gasket. it will look like this when you put the new one in, note the orientation because i think its possible to put it in upside down.

View attachment 2570477



Welcome to your engine bay:

View attachment 2570486

See @ToyotaMatt post below @ToyotaMatt ?
As I grow more bananas, I'm circling back ont he sparkplug question. Ihave my gap set to .039, not .031. this is what the haynes manual says...
Anyone want to weigh in here?

tempImageqE9P7N.png
 
As I grow more bananas, I'm circling back ont he sparkplug question. Ihave my gap set to .039, not .031. this is what the haynes manual says...
Anyone want to weigh in here?

View attachment 3346053
.031” is spec I believe. If you are running a super powerful ignition you can probably up the gap a bit though. With the standard ignition and a bigger gap on the plug you will get a bigger spark that can aid in ignition * however* the cost is a shorter spark duration. With better leads and a more powerful coil you can’t spark a bigger gap and maintain the same spark duration.
 
.031” is spec I believe. If you are running a super powerful ignition you can probably up the gap a bit though. With the standard ignition and a bigger gap on the plug you will get a bigger spark that can aid in ignition * however* the cost is a shorter spark duration. With better leads and a more powerful coil you can’t spark a bigger gap and maintain the same spark duration.
Well put sir.
 
Ill real her back to .31, was set at .39. MOTHERFUCKER

begrudgingly acquiring bananas at a monkeys pace,
Dan
It likely ran ok at idle and maybe even cruise but when you loaded the engine like trying to climb a hill that’s when you’d really see an issue
 
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