Builds The Forbidden FJ60 (Story+Build Thread) (1 Viewer)

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kirvesmies said:
@Beehanger , having built a couple of engines, i'd not risk running it like you're thinking. i know, not what you wanted to hear. i'd think it would be easier to put the smog $h!t on, do your break in run, post break in oil n filter change, then tackle the desmog. remember, 1 task at a time
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Crap. The air rail is broken, and I have all the smog stuff pulled and idler pulley already installed with belts etc.

I have mud guy that knows about desmog. I think I’ll just have to wait for him to help me and we will triple check our work.

Dan
 
Gretsch said:
forum.ih8mud.com

60-series

FJ60 / FJ62 and related models
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com
forum.ih8mud.com

FSM - 2F ENGINE MANUAL

2F ENGINE MANUAL
forum.ih8mud.com forum.ih8mud.com

Just sayin'.....
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Is there a link to someone singing the 2f emissions manual to make it more entertaining? My ADHD, extroversion, and 2 bananas, are IMPEDING me right now!!!

I'll read it,

Dan
 
The air injection system does not affect how the engine runs. So you can remove it from a smogged engine and the engine should run the same.

Plug the ports where air is injected into the exhaust and you should be fine.
 
Quick Update followed by question:

The engine bay is slowly coming together. My lack of expierence hasn't been an asset, that's for sure. I'm currently attempting the hooking things up stage of the demsog process.

Once this is done, though, I was thinking: will my engine crank over, and even if it does -- could there by rust in the cylinder walls at this point???
considering that this engine has now been sitting for 6 months, and I haven't cranked it over since doing my timing adjustment (that was 2 months ago), could there be some probelms in there that woulds scratch the cylinder walls? I remember some mud member telling me that if there's any rust in there it will scarpe along the piston rings and ruin the engine.

It's been entirely parked outside in the dead of winter only until recently, and the moisture and cold really seemed to create flash rust on the engine internals (I'll remind everyone the flash rust that was forming when it simply sat in the back of the cruiser for 3 weeks. )

Regardless, I'm wondering how i should proceed as first startup and break in will liekly be happening soon. I'm planning on doing some manual cranks, but it's SUPER stiff and could barely get it to turn over with two guys bump starting it in fourth gear. Is this solution to keep pouring oil and wd40 into the engine via empty spark plug route, and just force it to turn over once or twice and then fire it up via the starter + hard shoves?

***(Posting a photo of the bad rust I'm concered came back after the buttoned up engine sat for the last 3 months, along with the current state of the build for those who are curious)***

Thanks,
Beehanger

IMG_6803.PNG


tempImagezk8ZIb.png
 
Spray some aerosol "fogging oil" in the cylinders through the spark plug holes. WD40 should work in a pinch
 
Do you have access to a flywheel turning tool? That’s better than bumping it in gear. If the motor is fresh, the cylinders should have a light oil film in them from when the pistons were installed, preventing rust buildup. Fogging oil sprayed in is ok, but I wouldn’t be dumping oil and wd40 into the cylinders because it’s just going to make it a lot harder on first startup and probably run like crap burning all that out. If the plugs are out, you should be able to spin the engine by hand from the flywheel (hell, even if the plugs are in it should spin by hand). If it’s that hard to spin, there’s probably a problem like too tight of bearing clearances, too tight of ring gaps, not enough/proper assembly lube.
Don’t want this to be doom and gloom, I’m rooting for you. I just wouldn’t be doing things that aren’t normal: pushing it in gear to spin motor, adding oil or stuff to cylinders, running half desmogged….
 
Skreddy said:
Do you have access to a flywheel turning tool? That’s better than bumping it in gear. If the motor is fresh, the cylinders should have a light oil film in them from when the pistons were installed, preventing rust buildup. Fogging oil sprayed in is ok, but I wouldn’t be dumping oil and wd40 into the cylinders because it’s just going to make it a lot harder on first startup and probably run like crap burning all that out. If the plugs are out, you should be able to spin the engine by hand from the flywheel (hell, even if the plugs are in it should spin by hand). If it’s that hard to spin, there’s probably a problem like too tight of bearing clearances, too tight of ring gaps, not enough/proper assembly lube.
Don’t want this to be doom and gloom, I’m rooting for you. I just wouldn’t be doing things that aren’t normal: pushing it in gear to spin motor, adding oil or stuff to cylinders, running half desmogged….
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Im buying fogging oil,

We turned the engine over with it on a stand a few months back. It was tight until we got it going.
I've spun it from the crank with a breaker bar before as well but had to bump start it first.

Hoping the hardware just needs to be broken and and sat for 6 months so it's a bit tight.

At this point not going to pull the motor, Im going to do smog the right way and attempt to start it (I doubt the starter will do what it needs to and to your horror will have to bump start it heavy dutym - unless you think this could damage the engine)


Dan
 
Beehanger said:
Im buying fogging oil,

We turned the engine over with it on a stand a few months back. It was tight until we got it going.
I've spun it from the crank with a breaker bar before as well but had to bump start it first.

Hoping the hardware just needs to be broken and and sat for 6 months so it's a bit tight.

At this point not going to pull the motor, Im going to do smog the right way and attempt to start it (I doubt the starter will do what it needs to and to your horror will have to bump start it heavy dutym - unless you think this could damage the engine)


Dan
Click to expand...
Why wouldn’t the starter do what it needs to? If it’s weak/worn out; replace it. If it can’t spin the engine because it’s too tight, then something is wrong.
 
Skreddy said:
Why wouldn’t the starter do what it needs to? If it’s weak/worn out; replace it. If it can’t spin the engine because it’s too tight, then something is wrong.
Click to expand...
I agree with this. fully charge your battery or get a new one. Use the starter to get the engine to start this first time. I don't think it is feasible to "bump start" an engine that has never been run before.

The flywheel turning tool can be used to rotate the engine by hand to disperse the fogging oil to lubricate the cylinder walls and to make sure everything is rotating smoothly. You might also want to rotate the engine to the timing mark to confirm the static timing before trying to start.
 
If there's rust in the cylinder walls, how would I know? Does assembly lube wear off in any way we've cranked the engine a handful of times over the last 6 months? It's weird how it kind of Jams up when not being spun for a bit, and then when I get rotating it it starts cooperating better. I'm hoping the fogging oil trick works here, have been using WD40 up till now......

Dan
 
Beehanger said:
If there's rust in the cylinder walls, how would I know? Does assembly lube wear off in any way we've cranked the engine a handful of times over the last 6 months? It's weird how it kind of Jams up when not being spun for a bit, and then when I get rotating it it starts cooperating better. I'm hoping the fogging oil trick works here, have been using WD40 up till now......

Dan
Click to expand...
bumpity bump
 
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