Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Yes, I seem to have endless questions. Any idea what was mounted on this bracket? It's on the driver's side firewall; you can see part of the hood latch release to the left for reference.

Inkedfile-20 (1)_LI.webp
 
What years had emission boxes there? My 77 has no emissions box there.
It happens to be a perfect place to mount the steering controller box.
 
Pretty sure the emissions “computer” mounts there

That makes sense since mine has been desmogged. I'll have to look through the box of parts and see if the computer is there.
 
Finally got the tailgate window working this morning. What a saga. I wound up using a motor that @J Mack sent me along with a NOS gear that I purchased here. My '77 gear is different from the one that I bought but all I needed to source was an appropriate sized E Clip for the shaft. Not sure if my motor is good or bad yet....it was acting unpredictable. I took the different gear set as the final sign to use the other motor.

I'll post more details in the tailgate thread when I get some time. I wouldn't say I'm an expert on these tailgates yet but I'm getting there. I bet I've had that assembly in and out at least 10 times over the last week.
 
I have to say that I'm impressed with how quick and smooth the window operates compared to my '85 4Runner. I probably need to take that one apart and regrease it.
 
Notice the difference in the center section of the gears. They each take a different adapter bushing, or hub, or whatever you would call that piece. The new gear has it installed. It’s missing from the old gear. Still not clear on why they changed the design on that so many times. The older brass gears and newer steel gears were/are machined to fit the shaft without a bushing or adapter.
Sorry for the hijack - this came up a couple weeks ago in a tailgate thread.
 
Notice the difference in the center section of the gears. They each take a different adapter bushing, or hub, or whatever you would call that piece. The new gear has it installed. It’s missing from the old gear. Still not clear on why they changed the design on that so many times. The older brass gears and newer steel gears were/are machined to fit the shaft without a bushing or adapter.
Sorry for the hijack - this came up a couple weeks ago in a tailgate thread.

No worries about the hijack at all.......and yes I notice everything (at least when it comes to mechanical details). I'll post further details in that thread later when I have some time. Have to get ready to go back to KSA tomorrow afternoon. :eek:
 
So I'm back in the magic Kingdom with lots of time to search the internet for parts. After getting the tailgate working I hastily broke out a wire cup and the corroseal. Used a small sponge brush and hit all the rust spots of concern. One bad thing about my painting technique is that I'm generally sloppy; which is why I try not to paint. I will say I am more than impressed with the corroseal. This stuff is water based so no odor to speak of and will clean up with soapy water. Unfortunately the polymer additive adheres fairly well to everything and I didn't bother to clean it off the "good" paint. It's also hard enough that I'm not sure it will come off with anything short of sandpaper. I plan on getting it buffed out when I pull it out of hibernation in a few months and see if I can get some of the excess black off.

There's quite a bit of rust over and under the drip lip moulding but as far as I could tell it's all surface rust at this point. Mainly from the rear doors back. I hit those areas extra hard to make sure that it didn't get to the point of needing metal repair anytime soon.

Again, no regrets on this purchase. These pigs are a blast to drive around town.
 
That is why I no longer use rust Converter by paint. Is soaks around the rust under the paint.

That is why I recommend oil rubs. Fluid Film or boiled linseed.

I can certainly appreciate that technique if you don't intend to paint. I just want the absolute minimal rust propagation until I can paint.
 
My wife only complained about two things when she was riding in the pig: the seats are dusty/old and the windows have no UV protection. I bought some camo seat covers from SOR and she's OK with those until we get the seats reupholstered. I wasn't sure how to resolve the other issue without straying too far from the OEM look but noticied someone mention 3M clear film which reduced heat and has high UV protection. Looks like this product would work for all criteria:

 
Well, whatever you do, don’t stray one iota from stock OEM perfection or we will kick you right outta here!

LOL. It's a little late for that but I'll do my best. How about OEM with some "looks like it should have been OEM" upgrades?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom