Builds A pig for Father's Day (1 Viewer)

[wngrog]

I've never heard of a FJ40/55 alternator not being able to run the AC. I would get a FJ60 style internal regulator style and run the charge directly to the battery. You will need an aftermarket amp gauge but I run this style on my 40 and 60 (of course) and it has an AC.

Keep reading. Your old 55 regulator may not be up to task.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

If it's like my '68 it was the safety switch not closing the ground.

If you look at the photo you will see that a previous owner/mechanic already put in a permanent ground on the safety switch.

 

[Eovdubs]

If you look at the photo you will see that a previous owner/mechanic already put in a permanent ground on the safety switch.

View attachment 2035123

I did the same thing to mine

 

[G-Cat]

I have a Mean Green alternator and starter in my 77 40. No issues with either but have read negative comments on both since having them installed.

Not that my 40 is a good case study...had the Mean Greens put in in 2012...and have racked-up about 200 miles since then.

 

[RUSH55]

CS130 alternator, but it has to have the correct mounting. The pulley should be easy enough to change.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

I've never heard of a FJ40/55 alternator not being able to run the AC. I would get a FJ60 style internal regulator style and run the charge directly to the battery. You will need an aftermarket amp gauge but I run this style on my 40 and 60 (of course) and it has an AC.

Keep reading. Your old 55 regulator may not be up to task.

It's not clear to me what alternator I have. This Remy label is the only legible tag I can find and a quick search of this number on the internet didn't get me very far.

Maybe @Coolerman can chime in.

 

[wngrog]

On my 40 (which has a 1984 2F) I have a FJ60 internal regulator alternator from @FJ60Cam

This eliminates the old crappy regulators that are on Pigs and 40s.

Wire direct to bottom plug on alternator and then tie it into the White/Blue large Ignition wire by the starter.

Does not compute with my 68 volt meter in dash but it keeps my battery hot as hell

I have the same type alternator you have in your pig in my Pig. It uses a voltage regulator that should be on your driver fender up by the headlight. When I did the 4.4 2F swap into my Pig, the EFI was taxing my stock setup. I bought 3 different voltage regulators and finally found one that worked with my alternator (like yours)

This one is a leftover. If the plug is the same as you have I’ll send it over and you ca see if that helps. If not I would recommend trying a 60 series.

 

[J Mack]

Remy: Catalog

Welcome to the new Remy Power Products eCatalog! Try out our catalog part search where you can search by part number, VIN number or make, model and year.

www.remyautomotive.com

14540 is the number for a 1970.
Looks just like yours looking at the photos on my cell phone.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

14540 is the number for a 1970.
Looks just like yours looking at the photos on my cell phone.

Yep. 70 through 77. I was reading the last digit as an 8 which wasn't getting any hits.

Looks like it's a 50 amp model. Probably not putting out 50 amps today.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

So a few observations, questions and miscellaneous ramblings from the last couple of days. First of all, I cannot get any real work done at our condo as everyone wants to ask me about the 55 or they want to buy it. I don't mind but I've never had to spend 15 minutes at the gas station filling up before unless I was in a semi. Yes, I do like all the attention it gets if I'm being honest.

I went down this morning to tackle the rear window wiring and the hood latch. Let's just say I lost the first match and the pig and I tied on the latch. So the window wouldn't roll down; motor would just grunt when I gave it power. So I pulled the assembly again and it would only move in one direction. Took the cover off and sure enough; cracked gear. Yes that's the same gear that I was bragging about 2 days ago. I do recall the window hitting quite hard when I rolled it up last time so maybe that's when it happened. I have a 1985 4Runner and this window is 5 times faster than that one. No worries, new gear on the way thanks to @J Mack who summoned me to the classifieds yesterday. This one broke into two pieces so I might see if I can come up with a brass alternative.....at some point.

So with the assembly out I thought I could at least open the tailgate and install the new terminal strip. Unfortunately one screw on the old terminal wouldn't cooperate. I decided to drill it out using cordless drill and vice grips. I thought my gloved hands were out of the line of fire but apparently not. One gouged hand later I thought of @bobm who said I would need lots of bandaids........even if he had other reasons in mind.

I noticed that the rear glass holder/channel thingy that the lift mechanism rides in is missing a small spacer on one side. Assume that might need to be replaced/fudged? By the way, that holder/channel piece is the rustiest thing I have found on the pig thus far. The rest of the tailgate innards look pretty good.

A 20" 2x2 is just the right size to prop the window up. After padding the glass bump stop with some towels in case it slipped I have been driving around without the assembly. Seems easier to get the rear window down this way......

So what is this "interface" made by GE that I found at the top of my passenger firewall? Does it have something to do with the AC that @Trollhole installed?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Regarding the hood latch. My BIL reported that the hood would unlatch and catch on the safety latch at anything over 50 mph (and he drove it that way twice for over 4 hours each time). He said at one point it was being difficult to open and the cable came out of the in-cab latch release. By the time I got the pig in my hands that latch release was bent and in my haste to remove it I broke two of the three bolts off that hold it to the kick plate. After two weeks I have had no success in removing those two bolts so I will likely cut off the captive nuts and go with nertserts. PB blaster, drilling, and 3 brands of broken screw extractors (including Snap-On) and I raise the white flag.

The hood at this point won't shut unless you slam it with very excessive force and then you have a very hard time getting it to release with the latch release. I have greased everything and the latch release works well. It appears to me that the hood is too far forward or the latch mechanism is too far back. I've tried adjusting the hood and the release mechanism but I seem to be played out in both directions. I've been driving around town and rarely get over 40 so it hasn't been an issue. I'll probably just leave it as is until next trip unless someone points out the obvious thing that I've overlooked.

Thinking about sending the seatbelts out for restoration. They are in OK shape but are a little stiff and scratchy. Sent the 80 belts out to Safety Restore a few years ago and they did a very good job. I took inventory today and noticed that the rear belts are missing two covers. Also missing the metal clip/stay for the front passenger belt (photo is of Driver's side). I'll have to keep a look out for at least the covers.

Lastly, aside from the minor nuisance issues, the majority of which I've already covered, this thing drives very well and I continue to be amazed at the condition of things as I dig. Took the air cleaner off yesterday, for example, the outside is covered in light surface rust but the inside looks new, including all the gaskets.

 

[wngrog]

Is there a bar here where I drew the blue line?

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Yes. I can take a better photo but I think you can just see it in this photo (circled).

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Took a better photo

 

[scrapdaddy]

I'm thinking something is bent. make sure everything is straight. I welded in some braces to stop the edges bending down and rebuilt the whole latch, so there's no binding. That's a tricky area that needs to be aligned just right.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Nice work.

 

[wngrog]

Yours is for sure sloping down and away.

I’ve messed with mine now until it’s perfect but it took a bunch of bending and cussing.

 

[WarDamnEagle]

Yours is for sure sloping down and away.

I’ve messed with mine now until it’s perfect but it took a bunch of bending and cussing.

Thanks. I haven't noticed it being as bad in person as the photo appears but will investigate in the morning. has called timeout on the pig for the evening.

 

[RUSH55]

Yeah, your hood latch mount plate looks like it’s seen better days. Maybe spend some time removing it and straightening it, and giving the latch itself a little Scrapdaddy style makeover. The hood pin itself is also adjustable by first backing off the jam nut at the base of the spring, and then turning the pin with a flathead screwdriver. Fore and aft adjustments can be made at the hood mounts if needed, but there is a fine line there between your body lines and hood pin centering, so be aware.

Also, when reinstalling your rear window into the holder, be sure the holder is centered.

 

[bobm]

Took a better photo

View attachment 2036728

We see you . I just bend the catch to the P/S everytime i close mine