Big and desperate enough to try
Good luck. If it were of a different design it might be easier.....but the mechanical/hydro advantage will go to the vehicle (lacking pump pressure). But in a pinch....you do what you have to do.
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Good luck. If it were of a different design it might be easier.....but the mechanical/hydro advantage will go to the vehicle (lacking pump pressure). But in a pinch....you do what you have to do.
Slathered the radiator in JB weld, lets see how long this crutches me along. While I should've replaced it when I bought the truck, too many expensive replacement parts in a row and my wife may think the Cruiser is unreliable
View attachment 2946668
I've been putting off changing my original radiator that has turned brown, but you just took it to a whole other level!
I put a cheap China tensioner bearing in (Dorman) as the tensioner was changed by Toyota and the OEM bearing is a smaller diameter (doesn't fit on the original tensioner swing arm). I did order the OEM one to put on during the next timing belt job, but just wanted to chime in here to say that the dorman part started failing after 15k miles. My OEM bearing had lasted 185k. I threw another China bearing on there, and am just counting down the days until its warmer and I can get the OEM tensioner in.
Something to keep an eye on as they say.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #110
I was reading the alternator threads on here and looking at non OEM parts because honestly I don't have $100 for a pulley atm and it seems the Hayden one that I got had decent reviews. One person said it failed about 10k miles in, but my thought is I have put about 9k on the truck since I got it two years ago, so i'm not as concerned really because I should have $100 between now and the next 9k to buy a new pulley.
I do appreciate your insight though
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #111
So after driving the cruiser for about 20 miles post fix, some observations:
-It seemingly has a lot more get up and go and responsiveness. I would assume because the new serp belt, pulley and alternator is spinning better?
-My driver window, while sometimes unresponsive to the window button, rolls up and down a lot smoother and faster than before.
-Despite my slather of the JB weld, there is still a small amount of coolant on the top of the radiator.
-It seemingly has a lot more get up and go and responsiveness. I would assume because the new serp belt, pulley and alternator is spinning better?
-My driver window, while sometimes unresponsive to the window button, rolls up and down a lot smoother and faster than before.
-Despite my slather of the JB weld, there is still a small amount of coolant on the top of the radiator.
It's possible that one or two of the alternator diodes had given up and the others were picking up the load resulting in the lower output and dimming lights/loss of performance?
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #114
Well.
Ordered oil filter, heater hose Ts and a new denso radiator, which all have been sitting in the garage for a month.
Went to drive it a few weeks ago and the battery light came on again. Swapped batteries. No dice.
Volts sitting halfway on the gauge. So my theory is that the power steering is puking so bad that it is dumping fluid everywhere. Or I did get a bad reman Denso, which is always a possibility.
Cruiser has been sitting in the back for a few weeks since ive been dealing with the Tundra and went and collected a Disco II.
Alwasy something.
Ordered oil filter, heater hose Ts and a new denso radiator, which all have been sitting in the garage for a month.
Went to drive it a few weeks ago and the battery light came on again. Swapped batteries. No dice.
Volts sitting halfway on the gauge. So my theory is that the power steering is puking so bad that it is dumping fluid everywhere. Or I did get a bad reman Denso, which is always a possibility.
Cruiser has been sitting in the back for a few weeks since ive been dealing with the Tundra and went and collected a Disco II.
Alwasy something.
I think either is possible, but if you've got a severe enough power steering leak I could see how it could damage the alternator. When I first bought my LC the lines from the reservoir to the pump we're leaking and making a mess. The good news is it was a cheap and easy fix with some generic hose from O'Rielly's.
What year Disco II did you get? I love my LC and it's a far better vehicle, but I can't help but miss my old Disco.
What year Disco II did you get? I love my LC and it's a far better vehicle, but I can't help but miss my old Disco.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #116
Yeah it is those hoses, I just need to go get the generics and do the job.
The Disco is a 2000, so it has the 4.0 in it, which from my understanding doesn't suffer the slipped sleeve or bearing issues. There is a guy on the disco forums that sells a lower temp thermostat kit which should greatly help the overheating issues, this truck hasnt had the HG done but idles in the middle on the gauge so thats optimistic.
Im still trying to figure out what I want to do with it- it was a more impulsive/rose colored glasses kind of purchase. Truck needs a lot- new headliner, carpet, windshield, a/c repair, brake line repair, rear frame repair. But man I love the styling of the Land Rovers-ive always liked them over the toyotas honestly.
Good call on the '00. It has a lockable CDL and even though LR didn't install a linkage to lock it (until the '04) there are a few options you can rig yourself.
I owned a '99 and a '00. Did the head gaskets on the '00 and eventually full engine swaps on both due to overheating. I believe all the Rover V8's suffer from the cylinder sleeve issue, but the 4.0's definitely do. That said, keep the cooling system in good working order (including fresh hoses) and if there is an issue shut it down immediately and you'll be fine. Maintenance, like with any other engine honestly, is the key to keeping them alive.
Both were in the family from new and I finally sold my '00 after 18 years. It served me well and I definitely miss it. Learned a lot of lessons with those that have and will continue to carry over to how I maintain my LC.
D21FJ60
#LiveLaughLove.
- Thread starter
- #118
I've read about the CDL mod, and its on the "if I ever get to it" list...
Well crud. Thought it was primarily the 4.6s...
The plan is to refresh all cooling system hoses and do the thermostat mod, hopefully buying me a couple thousand miles at least...
ACE has made a full drop in GM swap kit- wiring allows you to run LR trans and AC and everything, just install kit and choice of GM LS (I Think its the LS family) engine and off you go.
Still in the air with it given its the 4th vehicle and needs the most out of all of them- I may part it out, I really haven't made my mind up beacuse I really like the way it looks and feels on the inside- quirky, unrefined but airy due to the higher rooof than the cruiser and all the windows out the back.
Side note- what part of WV you in?
To keep this 100 series tech related: Noticed the rubber windshield gasket on the driver A panel is loose- need to silicon it in plae to prevent any leakage
If those kits were around 10 or 12 years ago I'd probably have two LS swaps under my belt!
I'm in Charleston.
